Hi my name is justin, I just joined this forum and Im not real sure were to post this question. I have A 96 Gt Mustang and it won't start, I was driving down the raod A few days ago and all asudden it died on me. I pulled over to the side of the road tried to restart it and noticed my thief light flashing rapidaly. I began checking to see what was wrong by checking the fuses first, and found that I had blew my EEC fuse (electronic engine control). I put A 30amp fuse back in, their was suppose to be 20 but thats all I had with me. I got back in the car turned the igintion and it blew it again. I then had to go to the store to get more fuses put another one in and checked the engine for A spark, but its not getting one because of the thief light. After putting A 30 amp in the second time it wont blow the fuse any more, which probaly i'snt good. Recently before this problem I noticed I could pull my key straight out of the igintion with it running or in assy. I checked for A bad ground, I've also checked for bare wires touching each other or metal. Today I put A new igintion switch in, since that seems to be A common problem, but with no luck it still wont start and is still flashing the thief light. Ive been told it could be the chip in the key, the igintion itself, igintion swith(its not), anti theif control module, the comp.,or igintion relay. They also told me if it is the key that it can be reprogramed, but why would it shut off while driving if it was the key. Please any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

You have a major problem, but one that can be corrected. Obviously the combination of the fuse blowing and the PATS system being activated together indicates to me a computer problem most likely.

You could have fried the ECU by going to a larger fuse....thats a bad idea. The fuse is designed to protect components and you may have allowed more current than you should have to reach the ECU with the larger fuse below it could blow.

Seems to me you have a short that needs to be chased down. It could be anywhere. I would take the car to a could electrical diagnostic person before you do more damage than you should.

 

First you you have to find out why the fuse blew. If you have any aftermarket stereo systems or car alarm you may want to start there as one of those wires may be shorting out. Also have you had any service done on it ,had water spill anywhere inside the car or can you remember your or anyone else do anything on it? Also how long have you had this car, maybe it was stolen and had the ignition system broken, replaced and now causing a short.

 

What is done to the car, like venom asked, any sterio mods, or maybe sequential tail lights? The theft light blinking makes me think you fried the ECU like MT's#1Customer! mentioned.

 

Had this problem on two cars. a 98 gt vert and a 02 cav. on the cav was simple he put a stereo in. basicly a short. in the vert the theft module was bad

 

The only sterio equipment I added was 6x8 in the front I cut the harness and wired them up but this was done about 6 months ago. The only other mods I have are an intake spacer, and billet firewall adjuster but thesse have also been done for a while.

 

Assuming its still not running, when you put the key in the switch, do the dash lights come on? If so, you may be able to check the EEC out if you know someone with an OBD reader or flash tuner (SCT, Diablo, Sniper, etc.) If the computer is talking to the dash, it may talk to you and tell you some codes. It would also relate any stored codes.

Even if you accomplish this, I predict the codes will be bad news. Get the car to a diagnostician that speicalizes in auto electric issues. If you have a local Mustan Club, check them out (join if you can) and see if they have a referral to a local shop.

Sorry for the problem. I have my fingers crossed it turns out to be a minor problem!

tripleblack

 

yes the dash lights come on, the radio still works the headlights, only problem is the theif light causing it not to start.

 

When you cut the wiring how did you wrap everything up? The worst thing to use is electrical tape as with the heat it slides off. Best thing is to use soldiering iron with heat shrink tubing to wrap wires but using butt connectors is the fastest and pretty much standard way most radios are installed although I would not recommend using butt connectors on any power or ground cables of devices that pull alot of power like headlights,foglights,amps etc..... it will act like a heat sink.

 

If you include your city and state, perhaps someone will have a referal to a local shop. I live in the Atlanta, Georgia area.

tripleblack

 

my 96 gt is blowing the fuse and my fuel pump isnt comming on and its not fireing and the theft light is flashing and the car wont it did the same thing just quit driving down the road

 

your pats unit is probably hosed. go to a dealer and ask for their help. You're prolly gunna need it.

 

We never heard back from the member so we dont know what the fix is but I think there are 2 control modules in the drivers side trunk. I would remove the modules and take the circuit boards out and inspect them for damage or burnt circuits. My sequencers were not working as well as my trunk light it turned out that it blew the convenience control module. I did not have a starting problem or light on dash but I would think that somewhere you have a short. Did you do anything recently to your car or did it get wet and how long have you had your car? I think the pats control module is located back there also along with the module I replaced.

I found out my problem by looking at wiring diagram and measuring voltages and verifying grounds.

 

My car did the exact same thing. I was on my way to work and blackout! The freaking car just dies on me. I restore power back to it but it won't crank. All I hear is CLICK!CLICK! The starter is good but it won't turn the engine over. Whut up wit dat?

 

dead battery. turn the dome light on and turn the key and if it dims then the battery is dead and you need a jump. thats the poor mans way of checking a dead battery.

 

Read this post https://mustangboards.com/5-0l-tech/...l-problem.html

Its either the battery or a connection to the battery, poor mans way is to look at the battery termianls if they look ashy or cables look greenish or ashy as well theirs your problem,you should not be able to turn cable by hand on pos nor neg side . If all thats good get a know working batt from someone elses car or bring batt to an auto store for a test.

The clicking noise is not enough current going to solenoid to engage the starter.

 

when I bought my 2000GT (used) it had an after market antitheft system installed on it. It was a plug in chip or key that was under the steering colum and if you took it out the car would not start. I noticed it 2 mons. after I bought the car. I've since deleted the system because I would Ocaisionly knock it loose getting into the car. this is probely not your trouble but wouldn't hurt to check and see if your car had one installed from a previous owner if you did not purchase your car new. Also check your solenoid. I don't even know where there located on newer fords, but they used to be on the inner fender well and if they went bad you could jump them with a screw driver. used to doit all the time on old chey back in the day but theirs are harder to get to because they are mounted with the starter assembly under the mtor.