Well let me clear this up...sorry been outta town. I have those numbers @ the wheels with my mods. Now i know i need drag tires to make this work but i figured i should @ least be in the 13's!?!?! My 60ft is 2.1 my reation time is .547 my trap speed is roughly 105-109. I powershift from 3rd to 4th and speedshift 1st to second. I shift pretty damn fast. WTF is going on...i know my 60 ft needs help, but i don't know what else to do!?!?! I've done every lil suspension mod i can think of and i launch at 1800-2500rpms. I've tried higher and i spin all to hell. THis is getting ridiculous!

I am by no means an expert, but sounds like a case of needing to find an abandoned road and practicing launches. 2.1 60ft could use help.

http://www.mcmmotorsports.com/smilies/iagree.gif
Yup, that is your problem....watch your e.t.'s drop with a 1.8 or even a 1.9 60ft.

:nunu: Well does anyone wanna tell me how i should be launching?!?!?! huh someone f$#@in tell me what i'm not doing right cuz i've tried all sorts of shit and nothing works!!!!

i have no idea what the problem with your car is but ive been having horrible 60' times (2.1) and still pulling a 13.88 @ 101 mph mods were 4.10s, xcal2 for speedo correction, slp lm, slp catted x, crappy econo tires launching from idle.

when i first took my car to the track, hurst short throw, slp lm catback and stock good year tires i pulled a 13.9 @ 101 with a 2.2 60'

:dunno:

Man i dont know what to say? 255hp & 298rwtq. and your trap speed is 105-109 mph with that mph thats 12sec range? I have just about the same mods as you.
My car put down 251hp & 289rwtq N/A, my best was 14.1 @ 96.6mph @ an altitude of 5000ft. but mid 14s is norm no power shifting at ALL.
w/100 shot DRY my best is 12.5 @ 110mph Ive ran many 12.6s - 12.8s @ 105-107mph.
Its hard to tell what the problem could be? cause there are so many variables. I have a buddy that was dynoed @ 260ish and 305tq and couldnt break a 13 :shakeno:

are you guys taking "elevation" into effect here? I run a 14.2 on the west coast at 2800 ft above sea level but a 13.6 in orlando, FL

WTF?

Well then get the Vette. That car will get into the 12's everytime although that will be the more expensive approach. Put a sc on the car.

how can you trap 105-109 with that little bit of power?

Regardles your 60' sucks, and im sure your loosing time on the shifts with the tires spinning.
If you seriusly wanna go fast its time ot get a decent set of rear rims (15" is best) and a good Drag radial or slick. Also you should power shift every gear to go as fast as possible. Other then that without actuly seeing you drive and say you need to work on the 60' we cant do much for ya.

105-106?? My 05 GT, manual, I ran a 13.4 at 105mph with a 2.285 60'(yes that sucks but at the time i was still getting use to the hydra clutch) and that was on the stock tires. With that trap you should have still ran a low 13 especially with a 2.1 60'. Good luck with it and keep trying at it. Also a Vette is the only other car i would ever buy.

Hey I'm jumpin in a little late here. I kinda have a reuptation of being a "good driver" and I say that fairly modestly - I dont generally like to brag about it because someone wnats to always challenge that.

Your #1 problem is traction. With gears and stock tires and a 2.1 60' that tells me right away you are spinning off the line, which also means you are probably getting loose on your 1-2 shift. Getting a good tire like a BFG Drag Radial will allow you to launch more agressivly - I usually launch about 5800 both on stock tires and drag radials, the only difference is how agressive I am with the clutch off the line. You should see a 1.8ish 60 foot time (with drag radials) which assuming NO other improvements would drop your ET about 0.6 seconds. The rule of tumb is every 0.1 off your 60 foot is 0.2 off your ET.

Next, after adding the drag radials you should POWER shift 1-2, 2-3, AND 3-4 - every fucking one of them. With good tires the car should jump foward on every shift giving you extra momentum. I had a friend last night test this theory in his cobra and he went from 12.85 powershifting only 3-4 to 12.44 powershifting them all. Also what RPM do you shift at? Optimal is usually around 5800-6000 unless you have cams which will change everything.

Also to note - ignore your reaction times. Your ET does not start until your car moves foward - I have sat at a green light for a second or two getting the RPM's right before because someone tried to rush and I did not have long enough to stage. Go WHEN YOU ARE READY, after the green light of course.

One thing I disagree with is the people saying to get nitrous or boost. If you can't handle the car now, you definatly can't handle the car then. Instead of going 14's in a 13 second car, you will be going 12's in an 11 second car.... an expencive lesson IMO.

One last tip - don't run your car cold. I tried this last winter (keep in mind im in Vegas so what is winter anyhow) and by keeping the car idling through the pits and it was at full operating temp before I hit the lights - dropped a solid .2 off my ET also.

With the advice above and PRACTICE I'm confident you should do better and easily be in the 13's. IMO buying the Vette OR boost OR nitrous is a band-aid solution to a problem that will exist either way.... and my way is a HELL of a lot cheaper also...

Best of luck bro.

+1

Which track are you going to? TAD or SAR?

TAD is probably the worst track in central Texas: horrible prep and there's that damn dip at about the 1000' mark, makes me cringe everytime.

SAR is awesome, especially if you go there around NHRA time, lots better track prep.

What rpm are you shifting at, do you have a shift light? These two thing are extremely important to a consistant low et....And from what I have read you havent mentioned anything about this, the factory tach can be as much as 500 rpm off too.