4:10's Vs Supercharger. Issues?
#1
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4:10's Vs Supercharger. Issues?
Just what the title says.
I got a couple things in the works that may result in getting enough spare cash to piece together a supercharger setup. Still doing some research but im really hoping to get this to work, and hopefully in the next few months. Im gonna have some questions from time to time because i want to do this right.
2004 GT, Auto 26k miles
Only mods include
Motive 4:10 Gears
K&N FPIK (will be replaced by a shaker setup real soon)
Springs
Diablow Tuner
Catback straights.
Once i get it setup and installed i plan to get this tuned by Mile High Dyno and im aiming for 350-375hp, this is at 5,700ft altitude. (probably about 400-425hp at sea level) Not sure what size pully i will need. Any recs would be great.
Anyways, i was wondering if having 4:10's in the stock rear end would be problematic for a 04 GT Auto with low mileage. I know it probably wont hook that great untill i get some suspension work.
I could always go with smaller gears, but after the gear purchase and install charges would it just be better to work on suspension? or will that HP with 4:10s just destroy the rear?
I got a couple things in the works that may result in getting enough spare cash to piece together a supercharger setup. Still doing some research but im really hoping to get this to work, and hopefully in the next few months. Im gonna have some questions from time to time because i want to do this right.
2004 GT, Auto 26k miles
Only mods include
Motive 4:10 Gears
K&N FPIK (will be replaced by a shaker setup real soon)
Springs
Diablow Tuner
Catback straights.
Once i get it setup and installed i plan to get this tuned by Mile High Dyno and im aiming for 350-375hp, this is at 5,700ft altitude. (probably about 400-425hp at sea level) Not sure what size pully i will need. Any recs would be great.
Anyways, i was wondering if having 4:10's in the stock rear end would be problematic for a 04 GT Auto with low mileage. I know it probably wont hook that great untill i get some suspension work.
I could always go with smaller gears, but after the gear purchase and install charges would it just be better to work on suspension? or will that HP with 4:10s just destroy the rear?
#3
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lol....
#4
I personally, wouldnt run any type of roots or twin-screw setup with 4.10s. Centrifugal would be the way to go, and at your elevation, I would make sure its intercooled or aftercooled. You will pretty much have a tire roasting machine so instead of changing out them gears, id do full length subframes, FRPP uppers, MM lowers, and a nice set of shocks and struts. Itll help alot with wheel hop and thats probably your main concern regarding snapping your rear end.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
#5
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I personally, wouldnt run any type of roots or twin-screw setup with 4.10s. Centrifugal would be the way to go, and at your elevation, I would make sure its intercooled or aftercooled. You will pretty much have a tire roasting machine so instead of changing out them gears, id do full length subframes, FRPP uppers, MM lowers, and a nice set of shocks and struts. Itll help alot with wheel hop and thats probably your main concern regarding snapping your rear end.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
Well, i dont really want to do a twinscrew or roots mainly cause they wont work with the Shaker setup i want to get. Vortech does work and i can keep the chaker functional, well, even though it dont do ****. lol. i just LOVE the way they look.
One of the reasons i want vortech is just price reasons. I cant afford a kenne bell. lol. i can get a vortech setup pieced together for about 2k-2,300... enough to do some suspension work.
ill probably hold off on the intercooler for now, i can always hit that up later. the Mustang isnt a daily driver anymore either, so i could probably get away for a few years.
#6
If you dont want an intercooler or aftercooler, you can look into meth injection. You can pick up a nice kit for 500 bucks and it runs off, well methanol. You can get concentrated windshield washer fluid and use that and itll last a couple thousand miles depending on your driving habits. My washer fluid bottle has been empty for years, and you can use that tank instead of adding a new one. You can buy boxes of concentrated washer fluid for cheap, and pretty much every place should carry that stuff.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you dont want an intercooler or aftercooler, you can look into meth injection. You can pick up a nice kit for 500 bucks and it runs off, well methanol. You can get concentrated windshield washer fluid and use that and itll last a couple thousand miles depending on your driving habits. My washer fluid bottle has been empty for years, and you can use that tank instead of adding a new one. You can buy boxes of concentrated washer fluid for cheap, and pretty much every place should carry that stuff.
so why do people spend 100-1500 on an intercooler if this stuff works?
#9
I personally think the 4.10's will keep the rearend from letting go as long as you don't use slicks. The weak link in the deal stays the tires, until traction is increased. that's when you need to invest in some HD rearend components(when you start wanting traction).
#11
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Make the puzzles...patent the designs and get more than 500...you get $$ for every one they sell instead of 2k to make them once. you could be the "puzzle guy" get good designing puzzles, make a million or 5 and retire.
#14
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i should be able to hang 375hp on a non built mustang for a weekend car. Hell, i put less than 1k miles on my mustang since the beginning of this year.
Getting the engine and all that stuff built can come later.
Hell i really dont even race, i have never been to the track and only 6-7 street races since i got the car in 2004.
Im sure i will get aorund to getting everything built later on tho.
#15
Might wanna check out some meth injection websites and read up about it.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and even google it up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and even google it up.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Might wanna check out some meth injection websites and read up about it.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and even google it up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
http://www.coolingmist.com/
and even google it up.
heh. that might be pretty fun to try that setup.
especially since you can just use washer fluid. lol
#17
i myself built my rearend because of my future plans of a vortech. ive seen these rearends scatter with a n/a motor on slicks. for the small price of axles and a limited slip carrier wouldnt u rather have peice of mind? especially if ur gonna be throwin nearly 400 horse to the wheels.
#18
lol...
#19
I pretty much got the same advice and info about running a s/c with 4.10s and an auto. Definitely go with a centrifigul type, either paxton novi or a procharger. I'm working on getting a Procharger D1-SC atm and plan on running around 15 psi. I'm thinking it'll be a hoot to drive.
#20
i dont think you will break a rear end running a supercharger and a automatic. i have a built tranny and my rear end is holding up just fine. the only thing i suggest to do is to do the J-mod on your valve body. that will firm up your shifts for those WOT blasts. pulley wise who knows theres a guy on MPH running a 3.1 pulley non-intercooled in 6k elevation with 400 hp. my 3.1 pulley intercooled has me at 12 psi sea level.
#21
I personally, wouldnt run any type of roots or twin-screw setup with 4.10s. Centrifugal would be the way to go, and at your elevation, I would make sure its intercooled or aftercooled. You will pretty much have a tire roasting machine so instead of changing out them gears, id do full length subframes, FRPP uppers, MM lowers, and a nice set of shocks and struts. Itll help alot with wheel hop and thats probably your main concern regarding snapping your rear end.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
Your sumis are a hard compound tire and will be screaming for mercy instead of launching you to the moon, however, the suspention will also help you in the traction area. Our rear ends are stronger than most people make them out to be. As long as you arent wheel hopping againts cracks and potholes in the road and launching with slicks, itll hold up.
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