I have a 99 GT with 4.10s off road h pipe underdrive pullys and a k&n filter the car runs about 13.50s. What could I do to make the car run mid to low 12s with out spending over 1200 dollers?

 

Well a tuner would help and maybe a cat-back.There is about $800.

 

Nitrous. Stick a Venom 1000 on it, bottle warmer, and some nice switches for a total of about $850.

 

Also a throttle body and plenum would help and there is another $400 so there goes the $1200

 

I really dont want to run NOS through it because I am afraid that the pistons and rods wont handle it.

 

The only way to run mid to low 12's for 1200 dollars is Nitrous.

 

Nitrous is safe dont worry aobut it. get a Window switch and fuel pressure saftey switch and you dont have to worry about blowing the manifold, and running oout of fuel which would kill the pistons. also with your times a 100 shot which is very safe will get ya well past a 12.5 if you hook.

 

get some Drag Radials! I've seen them cut .4 off of people's times. How do you feel about long tube headers? You'd have to change your H-pipe around if you did that, but it definately would open up your exhaust, and then add the TB and Plenum to open up your intake and a nice tune. If you went with all this you'd probably spend over $1200 though. I would definately consider DR's though.

 

I would also agree on the nitrous but i would go with an NOS dry kit 05116. but working with what you already have, I would add a set of slicks, L/T headers, 75mm TB and Plenumn. and maybe a 80mm MAF, doing some smart shopping you should be able to get them all for $1200. Search the used classifieds. With slicks alone you should now be in the high 12's..

 

if you do get nitrous get some kind of tires with better grip! I know a guy who took his GT on nitrous to the track and did $5,000 worth of damage on street tires

 

best bang for the buck is hands down nitrous. end of story

 

spray, NX.

dry kits rely on the computer too much imo. if you use a window switch and a WOT switch you will be fine. NOS is a brand, only ricers call it NOS, you can call it spray, squeeze, juice, laughing gass, ect. but it's not NOS.

 

sounds like he didnt know how to handle a car with power.

 

get the 10.5 rims out back with a 315 drag radial and then go with a venom nitrous kit ....these kits work great ...I have one on my fox body 5.0

 

JayC who posts here and at MD is a great example. He has an 01 (I think) he has minimal mod's, pullies, 4.10's and exhaust. With a 100 shot NX wet kit and Goodrich drag radials he has gone as fast as 11.5's @ 115. I have a video somewhere I shot of him at Beech Bend last fall.

 

Yes, if handled correctly, nitrous can be as safe as a stock car. Ive heard of people that did a WOT nitrous spray on an emissions test and came back cleaner lol. Anyway, thats the only way to get into the 12's like you want for that small amount of money, you just have to know when, and how to use it. Its no worse than a blower, but you should definately not get cheap with it. Like stated, window switch, bottle heater, and fuel pressure safety switch are some great things to have. The bottle heater isnt so much for safety, but it keeps the bottle pressure where it needs to be to make your system as effective as it should be. Good luck with it, and be safe with it. Oh and I second the drag radials thing. All the horsepower in the world does you no good if you cant hook it up.

 

Thats not true... A member of another board i am usually on, SSOTN, another member a.k.a. The DON, has been in the 12's with just a catback, prochamber, 4.10's, timing adjuster and a set of ET street tires. I witnessed this myself, so it can be done n/a without a huge amount of cash.

I dont know what dry kit you are using , but i have been using and installing dry kits for years they dont rely on the computer no more than a wet kit. if you mean on the 99+ returnless cars the only function going to the computer is for the Fuel pressure Sensor, the NOS 051116 kit has a "box "which when the system is activated makes the computer "think" that it has less fuel pressure and bumps it up to supply extra fuel at the injectors. It is no different than what is happening on your wet kit when the fuel is pulled from the rail, the sensor will show less fp and bump it up. BUT the dry kit does it quicker than the wet kit because it is getting the reading the same time the voltage is applied to it, unlike a wet kit which will actually need to lose the fp first.... The actual BEST kit is a dry kit that sprays PRE-MAF then the computer will compensate from the MAF voltage reading for an almost perfect A/F.

 

He posted low to mid 12's not 12's. I have gone high 12's with bolt on's but low 12's takes at least 300 rwhp and weight reduction.

 

Yea, and even with all of that, its still more than 1200 bucks, if you figure, 550 for gears, install, and speedcal, and catback 350 at the cheapest, and then 140 for a timing adjuster, and then 350 at least for the et streets...

 

Classifieds are your friend.. :smileinbo can get all that easily well under 1200 if you do some smart shopping, only thing i would reccomend buying new is the gears...and i paid like 135 from MT for my 4.10s and did the install myself, or my local shop only charges 125 to install, so i dont know where you get 550..thats real high for a gear install..

 

NOSzle System is supposed to be worth the money.
It's complete and it has the best nitrous distribution IMO.

Should get you there easy.

 

I had the noszle system, too many tuning issues with it so i switched back to the dry kit..the problem with the nosle kit is that the nitrous is injected right in the direct path of the tip of the spark plug and will often cause spark blowout in some cylinders..do a search of this kit over at MD or corral, alot of other users have had this same problem...