It's ALIVE!!!!!
#1
It's ALIVE!!!!!
I'm So friggin excited I about wanna die!!!
You guys already know about the rod goin' through the block. Well I FINALLY got the engine and all the ancillary stuff from an 03 crown w/ 30076 miles on it and put it in BY MYSELF in Two Days!!
Runs like a champ. Purrs like a kitten. I never realized it but I had a serious Vaccuum leak on the old motor... This thing runs and shifts like new. I thought something was wrong with it, but so far so good!!!
things I had to change:
alternator bracket (I had plastic intake, new engine had alum. crossover)
mustang headers and egr tube
mustang throttle body and intake plenum
mustang 6 bolt flywheel (driveplate for auto)
mustang coolant sensor cause the one that came with it wasn't working.
so my 00 with 93k miles on the chassis now has a new heart w/30k on it...
Believe it or not all I used was a stanley 100+ piece toolset and a cherrypicker... I got an engine stand but really didn't need it...
You guys already know about the rod goin' through the block. Well I FINALLY got the engine and all the ancillary stuff from an 03 crown w/ 30076 miles on it and put it in BY MYSELF in Two Days!!
Runs like a champ. Purrs like a kitten. I never realized it but I had a serious Vaccuum leak on the old motor... This thing runs and shifts like new. I thought something was wrong with it, but so far so good!!!
things I had to change:
alternator bracket (I had plastic intake, new engine had alum. crossover)
mustang headers and egr tube
mustang throttle body and intake plenum
mustang 6 bolt flywheel (driveplate for auto)
mustang coolant sensor cause the one that came with it wasn't working.
so my 00 with 93k miles on the chassis now has a new heart w/30k on it...
Believe it or not all I used was a stanley 100+ piece toolset and a cherrypicker... I got an engine stand but really didn't need it...
#2
you make me proud.... PROUD! It's not that hard but it does take a little while. Good job though. Most people chicken out on big jobs like that.
BTW... how'd you get a rod through the block?
BTW... how'd you get a rod through the block?
#4
So... here's the break down:
used motor(complete) 950.00
freight:375.00
engine hoist:200.00
engine leveler:40.00
flexplate: 60.00
alternator bracket:15.00
bolt/nut extractors: 12.00
new socket set: 15.00
new ratcheting wrench set: (Christmas present)
New wrench set: 18.00
didn't need the last three, but hey I'm worth it...
I already had a torque wrench... and the aforementioned "tool set".
so the total for it all comes to...1625.00
used motor(complete) 950.00
freight:375.00
engine hoist:200.00
engine leveler:40.00
flexplate: 60.00
alternator bracket:15.00
bolt/nut extractors: 12.00
new socket set: 15.00
new ratcheting wrench set: (Christmas present)
New wrench set: 18.00
didn't need the last three, but hey I'm worth it...
I already had a torque wrench... and the aforementioned "tool set".
so the total for it all comes to...1625.00
#5
Now I know some of you will cry foul and say I could have gone with a 5.4 etc... but I went with the quick inexpensive way out because I'm on a work assignment that ends 2 Mar... And you know how things happen... I wanted to make sure I had a running vehicle before I had to hit the road...
Now it has become apparent that I had a slight vaccuum leak on my old engine... You diagnosticians hear me out.
With the prior set up, everytime I put it in gear it would surge slightly and then go smoothly until I got up to cruise speed (1350-1750rpms) then it would surge just enough to notice it unless I got on it.
The other thing I noticed is my exhaust used to pop a lot more after I would rev it. Now it revs and goes back to normal more quickly. It used to sound like it was cammed, now it sounds like it's loud...(SLP catback on both) and while I am glad it is running so much smoother, I miss the more muscular sound... (cam time I guess, but first I've got a set of gears that's been waitin' a month to go in...)
Now don't get me wrong the swap didn't go off without a hitch, I have to re tap one of the block holes for the power steering pump. I've got 3 holding but one crossthreaded. I've also got to get another bolt for the AC compressor.(bent one) I'll also look for a new coolant reservoir cause one of the backing plates on the rad support came through and I can't seem to get it out. Other than that, everything's golden. No leaks, and no creaks...
Now it has become apparent that I had a slight vaccuum leak on my old engine... You diagnosticians hear me out.
With the prior set up, everytime I put it in gear it would surge slightly and then go smoothly until I got up to cruise speed (1350-1750rpms) then it would surge just enough to notice it unless I got on it.
The other thing I noticed is my exhaust used to pop a lot more after I would rev it. Now it revs and goes back to normal more quickly. It used to sound like it was cammed, now it sounds like it's loud...(SLP catback on both) and while I am glad it is running so much smoother, I miss the more muscular sound... (cam time I guess, but first I've got a set of gears that's been waitin' a month to go in...)
Now don't get me wrong the swap didn't go off without a hitch, I have to re tap one of the block holes for the power steering pump. I've got 3 holding but one crossthreaded. I've also got to get another bolt for the AC compressor.(bent one) I'll also look for a new coolant reservoir cause one of the backing plates on the rad support came through and I can't seem to get it out. Other than that, everything's golden. No leaks, and no creaks...
#6
the vacuum leak probably caused detonation which finally built up and smoked that rod. that's my bet. Yes a 5.4 would have been cool but you made the right choice IMO for your situation.
The symptoms you described were consistent with a plain ol' vacuum leak. Not a super big one but big enough to make a catastrophic difference.
You only need 3 bolts on the PS pump. The one that's REALLY hard to get out can stay out... trust me hehehe. It's in the instructions for 5.4 swaps to leave it out and it works on 4.6's too. I probably have the AC bolt... take a pic with it next to a ruler and I'll check. We're in the same state so I can mail it to you or you can pick it up if you're not far from the Bay.
The symptoms you described were consistent with a plain ol' vacuum leak. Not a super big one but big enough to make a catastrophic difference.
You only need 3 bolts on the PS pump. The one that's REALLY hard to get out can stay out... trust me hehehe. It's in the instructions for 5.4 swaps to leave it out and it works on 4.6's too. I probably have the AC bolt... take a pic with it next to a ruler and I'll check. We're in the same state so I can mail it to you or you can pick it up if you're not far from the Bay.
#7
Harmonics problem...
Thanks for the offer but I'll just pick one up from the hardware store...(grade 8, of course)...
I've driving mostly about 1.5 miles to work(one way) over the last few days so I haven't had a chance for my stang to get it's legs back. Tonight I fixed the power steering pump issue and decided to go for a drive on the highway.
I haven't really got it above 2krpm since it's been running till tonite. I've noticed I've gotten a harmonice problem between 2k and 2.5krpm. Every drive gear. I didn't notice it in park or neutral or reverse (didn't try reverse). I get a vibration through the tranny tunnel at about the area of the shifter to forward less than a foot... it's a deep vibration not a medium or high pitched feeling. I checked the motor mounts and they're fine. I didn't check the tranny mount because I didn't remove it and it was supported the whole time the engine was removed. I did have a little difficulty getting the tq converter to line up but it was mostly due to me not realizing other stuff was in the way...
Everything to the best of my knowledge is torqued to spec and there's no fluid leakage that I can see. Drivability is flawless to this point except for the vibration...
Any ideas?!
I've driving mostly about 1.5 miles to work(one way) over the last few days so I haven't had a chance for my stang to get it's legs back. Tonight I fixed the power steering pump issue and decided to go for a drive on the highway.
I haven't really got it above 2krpm since it's been running till tonite. I've noticed I've gotten a harmonice problem between 2k and 2.5krpm. Every drive gear. I didn't notice it in park or neutral or reverse (didn't try reverse). I get a vibration through the tranny tunnel at about the area of the shifter to forward less than a foot... it's a deep vibration not a medium or high pitched feeling. I checked the motor mounts and they're fine. I didn't check the tranny mount because I didn't remove it and it was supported the whole time the engine was removed. I did have a little difficulty getting the tq converter to line up but it was mostly due to me not realizing other stuff was in the way...
Everything to the best of my knowledge is torqued to spec and there's no fluid leakage that I can see. Drivability is flawless to this point except for the vibration...
Any ideas?!
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