This summer i am getting some money and will start my setup of mods on my stang. Here is my idea for my setup lmk what ya'll think. I'm trying to build a low 12 second N/A car this will not get me there and i know that but later i will do heads and cams.
3.73's
prochamber
longtube headers
magnaflow catback
tri-ax
steeda udp's
Fox Lake intake
75mm TB
Nitto DR's
K&N Filter
31 Spline axles
Some sort of differential
What is the best street/strip Diff around that is a 31 Spline differential where can i get it? That's my set-up probably. I may exclude the 31 Splines for now unless i can find a quality diff that's 31 spline to go with it. I think with this setup i'll be in the high 12's is this correct? I have no idea what my HP will be so any help u can give on a guess of my HP would be appreciated. Thanks. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :icon_sant

 

If your looking for low twelves and staying n/a the 3.73 gears won't cut it. I would recommend 4.10 or 4.30 gears to achieve mid twelves and will most likely need to replace the cams to get low twelves. You will also need a good SCT custom tune. Even with the above set up it will take good driving skill and many practice runs to achieve the low twelves. The body on your car should also be stiffened with good sub frame connectors and the rear control arm boxes should be welded along with welding your axel tubes to the differential carrier.

 

I said i want high twelves with that setup and that later i was doing a combo heads and cams to run low 12's READ THE WHOLE MESSAGE!!! I don't think i can do higher than 3.73 gears because i do a lot of highway driving. I forgot to add the part oabout a tune. My local tuner's gonna run me a custom tune.

 

You also have another thread posted that asks " WILL 310-330 HORSPOWER GET LOW 12'S?" That is what I was refering to,this thread is so similar that I didn't notice that you wanted to start off with high twelves first and then go to a different set up later. I guess your just going to have to do all your mods in the order that you want and let us know how you do,otherwise it's just a crap shoot bench racing. I know it takes lots of money and time to modify a car the way you want,most of us lack the funds to do it all at once. I hope you achieve the goals your looking for. Please share with us your track times and results based on mods performed.

 

Ive never seen so many threads made by the same person.

 

Yes i know i'm a post *****. I talk way too much!!!

 

Cheapest way to 12s is nitrous and practice.

 

You will not get the full potential of the fox lake intake with your mods! In fact you don't even need one with the mods you stated! You also don't need a built rear to go high 12's. I say if it ain't broke, why fix it, but thats just me! I suggest you do more research before you spend 2k on a intake that won't give you much gains with the mods you say you'll have!

 

First off the Intake is $1300 and also my reasoning is that i'm seting my car up to run low 12's because later i'm going to add heads and cams as well as a custom tune and maybe either run a small shot of nitrous, supercharge to run high 10's or just stay N/A and run low 12's. I'm setting my car up to be powerful and reliable and i don't call a stock plastic intake powerful or durable. Plus numerous test with the intake and 75mm TB on an 02 GT stock has shown gains from 15-20 HP and even higher gains on modded cars. So to me it is worth 1300 and will help me down the line to acieve high 11's to low 12's! :icon_rr:

 

Since you will be running DR's, you may be able to forgo the rear end...for awhile. If you want to upgrade it however, an FRPP 31 spline t-loc and a set of Moser axles would be the way to go. I second the 4.10's or 4.30's. 3.73's wont do much in comparison.

IMO, I would work more on suspension and weight reduction before adding more power. Even a thousand horsepower is useless in the quarter mile if you can't put it to the ground properly. Get some good quality LCA's, a tubular k, some drag struts...stranges work well if you want to keep it on the street, sub-frames, etc. It's possible to run N/A 12's with 245RWHP, with the right setup and weight reduction. Bill Putnam has proven that, though he was running slicks.

Above all...PRACTICE!

 

Fix it BEFORE it brakes. In other words, do what USMCstang said about the axles and posi. But get some ET streets or slicks on there and start launching at 4k+.

 

Mdmotorsports.com did a dyno test on the Fox lake intake on a stock 02 Mustang GT and only picked up 8.8 PEAK horsepower and 8.5 PEAK torque numbers at a cost of 1299.00 plus. There were larger gains at lower rpms wich is great for daily driving but don't help much at full throtle racing. The same place tested several other plenums both with 70 and 75mm throtle bodys and compared them with stock and found the Accufab set up produced 6.31 hp and 6.88 pounds of torque to the rear wheels over a stock set up. Considering the Fox lake costs 800.00 dollars more and only produces 2 more horse and 2 more pounds of torque I wouldnt buy it.

 

youll see better gains with the intake when you add cams, and heads. Plus any other power adder.

 

Ya'll really gt to listen i don't care stock how much power the intake gives but next summer i'm doing heads and cams and i will see a good increase as well as more durability from a metal intake over the stock plastic one!

 

Hey Blue Thunder,what Year Is Your Gt? THE THREAD YOU STARTED STATES YOU WANT TO BUILD A N/A MOTOR. UNLESS YOUR RUNNING A LARGE SHOT OF NITROUS THE 99 AND NEWER P.I. INTAKES ARE VERY DURABLE. THE METAL INTAKES ARE NICE FOR DRILLING AND TAPPING HOLES IN THEM IF YOU RUN NITROUS. INSTALLING CAMS AND DOING HEADWORK DOESNT EFFECT THE RELIABILITY OF THE INTAKE AS MUCH AS GIVING THE ENGINE A LARGE SHOT OF NITROUS. I LIKE THE IDEA OF SAVING SOME MONEY ON THE INTAKE TO PURCHASE OTHER THINGS THAT WOULD BE MORE BENEFICIAL IN ACHIEVING THE GOAL TO RUN SOMEWHERE IN THE TWELVES.

 

I will be getting an 02 GT 5-speed.

 

I Didn't Realize You Didnt Own The Car Yet. The 02 5 Speed Gt's And Newer Are Great Cars To Start Off With To Achieve Your Goals.i Like That The 02 And Newer Have Larger Mass Air Flow Sensors Than Previous Years. And Already Have The P.i. Heads And Intakes. The 02 And Newer Manual Transmissions Have A Better Overdrive Ratio Than The Earlier 5 Speeds Enabling You To Run 4.10 Gears AT SIMILAR RPMS AS A OLDER 5 SPEED WITH 3.90 GEARS WHEN BOTH IN 5TH GEAR CRUISING.

 

I agree with the above post that said the Fox Lake intake is not a good fit. At this point, I think it would actually hurt more than it would help. I would recommend taking that $1300 and getting a set of VT stage II cams (or similar) and a plenum. You'll get WAY more for your money and later on when you get the heads done you'll be better suited to step up to the Fox Lake or something better that just might come out between now and then.

Oh and 4.10's all the way.

 

I agree with PistolWhip and the others about the Fox Lake. You can run low 12's with a aftermarket upper plenum and the factory lower. I have run 12's without cams and with stock heads. The post about suspension was dead on. Learn from those of us who wasted our hard earned money ( see my C & L 200 doller paper weight MAF) on mod's that did not help. Gears , uppers and lowers, drag shocks and struts, beefed up rear and sticky tires. I know these items are less sexy but the are the building blocks for the future power you are going to make with those cams and heads. But it's you money, spend it as you wish.

 

you can lead this horse to water but you can't make him drink!

 

Will i need a second tune for heads if i decide to get cams now and heads later or do will heads not require a new tune because each custom tune i get is 350-500 dollars. If it does require a new tune then i may not do cams at this time. Because i'd rahter pay 500 dollars for just one tune and not have to waste money on new tunes as i ad mods. How will the intake hurt my mustang!!??!!??

 

Dam dude, 350-500 for a tune??? Are they signed in person by Carol Shelby? I can get (well used to be able to get, before I pissed off KenB) retunes for like $25 with my Xcal. I don't think you would NEED a new tune, but to get the absolute most out of a combo it is ideal to get a retune with major changes. Just tell the tuner that you will be getting head work done in the future and you'd like the tune to reflect that. It may run alittle on the fat side until you get the heads, but it shouldn't hurt you too much.
There are allot of cars going 12's N/A with stock heads and intake and VT's cams.

 

The tune includes a custom chip with hours of dyno testing and tuning. This guy is a good tuner!

 

Yeah most base dyno tunes/chip go for about that price, then retunes are usually $25 to $100 afterwards, depending on dyno time if you need it.

 

mine is going to run me 375 in a few weeks.....thats for the chip, and dyno tune....which isnt too bad when you consider the price some people charge for labor