RPM operating Range (cams)
#1
RPM operating Range (cams)
so I was looking at these Cams...http://www.modulardepot.com/product_...889ba8817ba8d5 ....
And it says that there is a RPM range of 1800-5800 .....What exactly does that mean? does it mean the car idles at 1800rpms now...and 5800 is redline???or....The power gains are in that range???? oh...and Do I really need a New computer??? or is it just saying that I will need a tune????
And it says that there is a RPM range of 1800-5800 .....What exactly does that mean? does it mean the car idles at 1800rpms now...and 5800 is redline???or....The power gains are in that range???? oh...and Do I really need a New computer??? or is it just saying that I will need a tune????
#3
Actually the RPM range listed is the operating range. You can run them higher than that of course. Cams are making "power" as soon you fire it up. The RPM range is where you have your most HP/torque gaines. As far as the TUNE if you have a hand held like a Diablo Predator you can raise the idle yourself.I believe your computer will compensate for the change "air/fuel ratio" EXCEPT at WOT that will have to be Richened up as it will be running LEAN. Don't forget you'll need intake & exhaust upgrades along with at least a 2000 stall.Good Luck
#5
Originally Posted by Weels1
Actually the RPM range listed is the operating range. You can run them higher than that of course. Cams are making "power" as soon you fire it up. The RPM range is where you have your most HP/torque gaines. As far as the TUNE if you have a hand held like a Diablo Predator you can raise the idle yourself.I believe your computer will compensate for the change "air/fuel ratio" EXCEPT at WOT that will have to be Richened up as it will be running LEAN. Don't forget you'll need intake & exhaust upgrades along with at least a 2000 stall.Good Luck
#6
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Yeah, so thats where they make power. I dont think they will be making any more additional power at idle.... You wont be able to run it higher without other support mods such as valve springs, ported heads/ new valves, and a new intake MANIFOLD. You also wont be able to get the car to idle perfectly by just raising the idle with a hand held tuner. There are other paramaters that need to be adjusted also.
The cars not gonna idle PERFECTLY :wallbash: Cuz he's installing Semi-Rough Idle Cams. My car idled fine for "ROUGH IDLE CAMS"after raising the idle RPM and I've got the XE278AH's. So, don't spew what you don't know.:bash: I was told by an EXPERT Tuner that the computer actually adjusts to the conditions you throw at it. WIDE OPEN THROTTLE IS "OPEN LOOP" though SO THEREFORE it WILL need to be RICHENED UP.
New valves,ported heads and intake to put Cams in and wind it up? your :censored: Nuckin Futs! I'll agree on valve springs.
#7
Originally Posted by Weels1
Ace,
The cars not gonna idle PERFECTLY :wallbash: Cuz he's installing Semi-Rough Idle Cams. My car idled fine for "ROUGH IDLE CAMS"after raising the idle RPM and I've got the XE278AH's. So, don't spew what you don't know.:bash: I was told by an EXPERT Tuner that the computer actually adjusts to the conditions you throw at it. WIDE OPEN THROTTLE IS "OPEN LOOP" though SO THEREFORE it WILL need to be RICHENED UP.
New valves,ported heads and intake to put Cams in and wind it up? your :censored: Nuckin Futs! I'll agree on valve springs.
The cars not gonna idle PERFECTLY :wallbash: Cuz he's installing Semi-Rough Idle Cams. My car idled fine for "ROUGH IDLE CAMS"after raising the idle RPM and I've got the XE278AH's. So, don't spew what you don't know.:bash: I was told by an EXPERT Tuner that the computer actually adjusts to the conditions you throw at it. WIDE OPEN THROTTLE IS "OPEN LOOP" though SO THEREFORE it WILL need to be RICHENED UP.
New valves,ported heads and intake to put Cams in and wind it up? your :censored: Nuckin Futs! I'll agree on valve springs.
#8
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
So tell me, how is it wrong? I tried to add more detail so people like you could understand.
Your car is technically making POWER as soon as it's running
#9
Originally Posted by Weels1
You don't need ported heads,a NEW intake,bigger valves.
Your car is technically making POWER as soon as it's running
Your car is technically making POWER as soon as it's running
No, you dont need new heads, intake, valves. Im running all stock stuff with my VT stage 2's except for my intake which I just recently changed. However, you do need those if you want to rev the car over 6k. Even though if you have cams that can rev that high, it doesnt mean the car will still make power because there are other limiting factors such as the heads, intake, valves. Sure ur car is making power when its running, but the RPM range is where they actually make power. Or where they make more power over stock like you said. This is too simple to be arguing over. We are saying the same thing here.
#10
Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
Thank you.
No, you dont need new heads, intake, valves. Im running all stock stuff with my VT stage 2's except for my intake which I just recently changed. However, you do need those if you want to rev the car over 6k. Even though if you have cams that can rev that high, it doesnt mean the car will still make power because there are other limiting factors such as the heads, intake, valves. Sure ur car is making power when its running, but the RPM range is where they actually make power. Or where they make more power over stock like you said. This is too simple to be arguing over. We are saying the same thing here.
No, you dont need new heads, intake, valves. Im running all stock stuff with my VT stage 2's except for my intake which I just recently changed. However, you do need those if you want to rev the car over 6k. Even though if you have cams that can rev that high, it doesnt mean the car will still make power because there are other limiting factors such as the heads, intake, valves. Sure ur car is making power when its running, but the RPM range is where they actually make power. Or where they make more power over stock like you said. This is too simple to be arguing over. We are saying the same thing here.
#11
Agreed.
A cam job is not something you want to do/ pay for twice. So figure out if you're actually going to get blown or not. If you are then get a forged block like Wheels said, if not then go ahead with the cams.
A cam job is not something you want to do/ pay for twice. So figure out if you're actually going to get blown or not. If you are then get a forged block like Wheels said, if not then go ahead with the cams.
#12
if you put agressive cams in you generally need a tune for it to idle.. sometimes idle at all. like in my case my car died at every stop until it was tuned. My cams are rated up to 6500rpms.. I shift at 6100-6200 because the power starts to drop past that.
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