RPM operating Range (cams)
 

so I was looking at these Cams...http://www.modulardepot.com/product_...889ba8817ba8d5 ....

And it says that there is a RPM range of 1800-5800 .....What exactly does that mean? does it mean the car idles at 1800rpms now...and 5800 is redline???or....The power gains are in that range???? oh...and Do I really need a New computer??? or is it just saying that I will need a tune????

Thats where they make power. The car should idle around 900-950 full temp AT MOST. You will need a tune to get the idle right.

Actually the RPM range listed is the operating range. You can run them higher than that of course. Cams are making "power" as soon you fire it up. The RPM range is where you have your most HP/torque gaines. As far as the TUNE if you have a hand held like a Diablo Predator you can raise the idle yourself.I believe your computer will compensate for the change "air/fuel ratio" EXCEPT at WOT that will have to be Richened up as it will be running LEAN. Don't forget you'll need intake & exhaust upgrades along with at least a 2000 stall.Good Luck:D

A tune is gonna be needed for sur ewith comp 270's as well as new valve springs.

Yeah, so thats where they make power. I dont think they will be making any more additional power at idle.... You wont be able to run it higher (6k+) without other support mods such as valve springs, ported heads/ new valves, and a new intake MANIFOLD (these are still limiting the amount of flow, etc.). You also wont be able to get the car to idle perfectly (not stalling/ jumping all over the place) by just raising the idle with a hand held tuner. There are other paramaters that need to be adjusted also.

Ace,
The cars not gonna idle PERFECTLY :wallbash: Cuz he's installing Semi-Rough Idle Cams. My car idled fine for "ROUGH IDLE CAMS"after raising the idle RPM and I've got the XE278AH's. So, don't spew what you don't know.:bash: I was told by an EXPERT Tuner that the computer actually adjusts to the conditions you throw at it. WIDE OPEN THROTTLE IS "OPEN LOOP" though SO THEREFORE it WILL need to be RICHENED UP.
New valves,ported heads and intake to put Cams in and wind it up? your :censored: Nuckin Futs! I'll agree on valve springs.

Try reading my post again Ace.

You don't need ported heads,a NEW intake,bigger valves.
Your car is technically making POWER as soon as it's running

Thank you.

No, you dont need new heads, intake, valves. Im running all stock stuff with my VT stage 2's except for my intake which I just recently changed. However, you do need those if you want to rev the car over 6k. Even though if you have cams that can rev that high, it doesnt mean the car will still make power because there are other limiting factors such as the heads, intake, valves. Sure ur car is making power when its running, but the RPM range is where they actually make power. Or where they make more power over stock like you said. This is too simple to be arguing over. We are saying the same thing here.

Skip it all cuz it's all going to be a mute point if he really wants to throw a Supercharger on someday like his signature says. Those cams won't be the BEST choice for a SC. If you want to go SC I "SUGGEST" getting some forged internals (rods,pistons & crank) Because most guys who get SC want to turn up the boost. Can we agree on this?:beerchug:

Agreed.

A cam job is not something you want to do/ pay for twice. So figure out if you're actually going to get blown or not. If you are then get a forged block like Wheels said, if not then go ahead with the cams.

if you put agressive cams in you generally need a tune for it to idle.. sometimes idle at all. like in my case my car died at every stop until it was tuned. My cams are rated up to 6500rpms.. I shift at 6100-6200 because the power starts to drop past that.