This hour I am currently leaning towards the Eibach Pro Kit as it lowers 1.5 all arounds vs. 1.6 in the fron and 1.5 in the back for H&R sports.

I don't think the C springs would get a big enough drop for me.

I guess I'll save for shocks/strutts/cc plates too.

Stay tuned and in ~2 hours I will tell you which springs I have changed my mind towards.

 

if it were me i would put the h&r supersports back in and get some caster camber plates and go somewhere that really knows how to allign a car. do the work yourself and save the money plus you'll feel good about doing the work yourself. if you dont want it that low then i would trade someone for the h&r sports. dont purchase new springs, its not worth the money. as for shocks and struts look into the bullit setup. ~$60 each for the rears and ~$110-$120 each for the fronts (randy can help you out with this). this will give you a much much better ride plus these shocks and struts are designed for lowered cars. order some caster camber plates, they're not always needed but its a good idea to get them anyway for extra adjustment.

if you need any help or have questions about swapping the springs just pm me.

 

I am going to try and find someone to trade my super sports for their sports. I will trade springs asap, but I will wait to install them when I have bought the shocks/struts since I think you put them in at the same time.

Is it inconvenient to have to install caster camber plates later? I am unsure of how they are installed. For example if I have to take the springs out to put the plates in then I might put CC plates in at the same time as the other stuff.

Also, I do not know anything about shocks/struts. Since my car has 75k miles do I really need to get them? I am not very concerned with performance racing or anything, mainly reliability.


Thank you

 

it's really up to you if you wanna do shocks and struts, i would recommend it at 75k miles but i havent ridden in your car so i dont really know if you need them. they will tighten up your suspension it wont bounce as much. if you think your struts and shocks are ok then just leave the ones you have. i'd still recommend getting them. and yes its easier to do them at the same time as your springs so you dont have to do the same work twice.

the caster camber plates sit inside your engine bay at the top of your strut towers. you dont neccessarily have to do them at the same time but if you replace them later you're going to have to get your car alligned again. they're not very hard at all to replace.

 

I'm gonna kinda jump in here too. I just found out yesterday I have Eibach Pro Kit springs on my car, I like the way it sits, but the ride quality blowwwwssss. Car has 46K miles on it. This summer I was gonna do some upgrading, Billstein HD shocks/struts, maximum motorsports tie rod ends, caster/camber plates, and XL subframe connectors.

On a scale of 1-10, my ride is about a 3 I think, with mods listed above what do you think it would jump up too?

 

when i put on full length subframes it really tightened up the car but wont make much difference on the ride. the shocks and struts will make a pretty good difference. caster camber plates just make it more adjustable and dont affect the ride. is you're car alligned properly right now? if so you probably dont need the caster camber plates. i needed them because my car was off by -3 degrees on both front wheels.
do you do a lot of road courses? if not i'd suggest just going with the bullit shocks/struts. it's an excellent setup for the money. unless you need adjustable shocks/struts.

 

I was told the bullitt was not a great deal, and I can get the Billstein for under 500 bux with shipping. I'm huge in the reasoning of you get what you pay for. I know the Bullitt would be an ok suspension, but I'd rather go with something that's truley the best. What else could I do to improve ride quality? Upper and lower rear control arms?

 

i think the bullit suspension is a great suspension for the money but if you want the billsteins then go for it. let me know how they feel. you dont always get what you pay for imo. most of the time you're paying for the name. $500 seems like a pretty good price to me though. upper and lower control arms didnt make a difference on the ride at all to me. they do help your launch a lot though. my car used to almost go sideways on the 1-2 shift but seems much better now. i still cant drop the clutch from a stop and expect traction but it seems at least a little better off the line. could also be my wallet talking.

i wouldnt rate the bullit suspension as ok, i think its great and definitely the best bang for the buck as far as suspension goes.

 

Yea I agree with Floppy.The Bullit kit is a good deal.It improves alot of things and does'nt lower it alot for people worried about scrapping.

 

i actually only have the bullit shocks/struts but i love em.

 

I have the Eibach pro kit, lowers car 1.5 inch all around. The bullit shocks/struts were only suggested for the steeda sport and Ford C lowering springs because they're drops were about an inch.

 

my car is lowered about 2 inches in the front and 1.5 in back. i love the ride. it's your decision. my sig doesnt show how low it is now.

 

Will the shocks struts affect the lowering of the car? Say mines lowered exactly 1.5 inch now, after the bullit shocks struts, will it go up or down at all?

 

nope...


you can compress the shocks/struts by hand. they're not strong enough to lift your car.

 

Would getting the front and rear bullit swaybars be worth it or not?

 

not too sure about the front but the rear makes a huge difference if you're into road racing or even aggressive driving .

 

Do you have the bullitt rear sway bar? If I got the bullitt struts/shocks I could choose from any rear sway bar, Steeda, maximum motorsports, any?

 

any sway bar would work it doesnt have to be bullit. the sway bar doesnt touch the shocks at all. it bolts onto your lower control arms. i dont have the bullit rear sway bar, like i said earlier i only have the bullit shocks and struts. everything else is mix matched - granatelli upper and lower control arms, steeda rear sway, steeda springs (cut), steeda front strut bar, maximum motorsports full length subframe connectors, upr torque box reinforcement plates. although half of my suspension is steeda i would recommend maximum motorsports. i only used steeda and upr because it's near by and i can pick it up easily.

 

I am wanting to lower my car for the looks factor. I do not do any racing and drive normal speed on the roads. I am happy with the ride I have now with the stock springs (not too bouncy or bumpy). I see quite a few people with the H&R sports with stock struts/shocks.

If I just keep my current struts and shocks and add a spring is the worst that will happen that the ride gets harder?

Are there any problems I could cause to my car not adding new struts/shocks?

I am really wanting H&R sports just for the great look, and I could probally find the money to get new struts/shocks, I just don't really want to pay for a whole new suspension system since I just do daily driving.

 

Yea, springs only would be fine.

Like with mine, I bought the car with Pro kit's on them, but with it being a DD I can't deal with it any more (the harsh ride). The roads in my area arent the best, and 95% of my driving is main and back roads.

 

Ok thanks.

So the shocks and struts are just for the comfort of the ride. I can't actually hurt any thing except for my butt?

I'm gonna try and find some H&R sports to trade for.

See if I need CC plates.

Install them myself.

Ride with it w/out new shocks and struts for a while/forever unless it is a horrible ride.

However, I was not unpleased with the ride my car got when it had the super sports on them (I didn't know it was lowered at that time either).





Thanks

 

I was goin to make the comment to about just doing shocks/struts later if you're to unhappy.

 

Alright, sounds good, I just need to find some used H&R sports.

Also, if the used ones come off of a v8 would they give a bigger drop to a v6? I can see the springs either being easier to compress since the v8 weight has settled them, or that it wouldn't make a difference.

I would actually prefer my v6 to not get the full 1.6F 1.5B drop that h&r sports have given GT's

 

I would think it would drop just a tad less than a GT

 

Cool thanks. I THINK I have it all planned out.

 

Out of curiosity I read that some bilestein or something struts and shocks make the ride more firm. They advertised it like it was a good thing. What do most people want when they install struts and shocks? A smoother ride? Or firm?

 

its kinda both, before i did mine the car was really bouncy but now if i hit a bump it bounces once and quickly recovers and tightens up. it's so much different than it used to be. so yeah a firm ride is definitely a good thing.

 

I was just wondering if I put on H&R sports and didn't like them, would I be able to reput on the stock springs without having to get an alignment?

Tanks

 

Do springs have a top and bottom spring isolator? Because the H&R super sports the shop took off of mine only had top isolators.

I am either going to get FRPP C or B springs, H&R sports, or Eibach pros.

Whatever I get I will get this CC plate if needed:
$140 Steeda CC

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QA1-C...temZ8038477011

and these shocks/struts:
$180 Mach 1 Tokico
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...spagenameZWD1V

This site:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/springs.htm

Shows that the B FRPP springs have a closer compression rate to stock than C springs, so would give a better ride. It also shows that the Eibach are closer to stock compression too. However, whitethunder's springs have a bad ride. Many people on these forums recommend H&R sports.

I might get the H&Rs......

 

My catylitic converters (can they also be called cats?) hang 4.5inches from the ground right now. Currently I have 16inch stock rims. I am looking into purchasing some 99' Cobra 17inch rims someone. Someone on another forum said that the 17" rims would give me 1 more inch of clearance since I have 16inch now.

If that is the case and I lowered my car 1.5 inches with H&R sports and 17" rims then my cats would be 4 inches from the ground correct?


Is that how it works?