Okay, I kinda figured out that the dyno guys who did my Mach 1 probably screwed it up, or their dyno was inaccurate. But if the timing is off, what would the car be running like besides low hp/tq?? Any help would be appreciated!!

 

I've honestly never experienced that issue, but I can tell you from my years on the forums and general experience that the car wouldn't be running right. Unless it was an extremely minute issue it would be a noticeable problem and you would know that something wasn't right.

I really think that the problem you're having has nothing to do with your car, but an issue with your dyno operator.

Also, I believe that if there was a timing issue or something that serious, you would have CEL (Check engine light) on which would indicate a problem before hand.

It may be worth while for you to "reset" your car, just unplug the negative battery post and let it sit over night, then re-attach the negative terminal and drive it around for a few days. This will let the system refresh and scan for fresh codes or issues, but again I don't think you have any.

 

If there wasn't enough timing in it, it would just be a bit sluggish, and not making the amount of horsepower it could be. Once you hit too much timing, it will start to lose power again, and then start to experience detonation and pinging.

 

the timing is controlled by the tune,,,,

we dont have a dizzy that advances or retards timing...

 

Someone could have previously tuned it and messed it up, but if that's it too (along with the dumb @$$ who dynoed it) then it's off just enough to mess with the hp but not enough to be very noticeable. There were a few times when the engine acted weird, it kinda "threw" itself, kinda like when you start a cold diesel truck. But it hasn't done that it a while... I'll try to mess with the tuner, and let it reset. The CEL is on, but because we have not cats, and it's saying the catalyst system is running below efficiency or something.

 

Is that the only code that pops up?

 

There's two. one says the same thing, but there's b1 and b2 after them. and our abs and trac control are on at the same time, but they said at the shop it was probably a bad abs sensor

 

You mean they both do not work and the dash light is on I take it. I am gonna take a wild guess and say pull the rear ABS sensor and clean it and see if it fixes the problem. Those sensors are nothing more then magnets so its hard for them to go bad. They do however get covered in trash and make for weird readings which will turn the lights on the dash.

 

Okay, we'll have to try that one

 

Most people love to toss parts at a problem and that is not how I do work. You would be surprised by the crap and metal shaving that form in the rear end over a long period of time.

 

Either that or the ABS sensors have been unplugged under the rear seat.. I left mine unplugged for months this summer because I was going to the race track so much and got sick of the ABS always f'ing up my burnouts.

cbrewster: You need to find a local club and get on their forum, ask around and find a reputable repair/tune shop, I think it's pretty obvious that you are using the wrong people!!!!

 

Ya, true!! I do need to find a local forum, but a lot of people here have rice burners, no offense to anyone! I'll see what I can find, maybe I can track down the other Mach 1 owners on my side of town.
It might be unplugged. The right side of our car has a mark on the back right fender, and it looks like someone hit a tire wall, because what ever's on there, it isn't coming off easily!!
I don't like throwing parts at cars either, I want to find the problem (if there even is one) and fix that one, not just throw money away. We want to upgrade and get a lot done, but that'll come with time.

 

I would also suggest creating an account on the Mach 1 Registry and bumping around that site.

www.mach1registry.com

 

I'm on there and am trying to get some info from that site as well