Burnt Clutch?
#1
Burnt Clutch?
I pretty much just brunt my clutch and need some help/advice. I was being stupid and having fun, but now I'm sad. Then I smelt it and the clutch peddle seem more aggressive, like harder to push down. Then taking off didn't seem the same anymore and everytime I push in the clutch you can smell something nasty.
Question:
How much does a stock clutch cost for a 1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0?
How much would it cost to install it? Because I'm pretty sure I can't do it.
Edit: I might have my friend do it for me, even though I shouldn't. :/
I was doing a burn out without the line locks or whatever.
Ps. I'm getting my rear sway bar this weekend.
Edit: Is the clutch really supposed to get tighter? I know in my Geo Metro I had before the clutch went out completely, I believe it wasn't like that. Fourth and Fifth gear were pretty much gone.
I was just reading on some other website how to do it by your self, sounds interesting and almost tempted to do it my self. I didn't read it all, but I read some where about you have to drive like a granny for 500 + miles. I don't think I could do that, so I might be better off just buying a used clutch, but not a bad one (MAYBE).
What about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...Q5fAccessories
Question:
How much does a stock clutch cost for a 1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0?
How much would it cost to install it? Because I'm pretty sure I can't do it.
Edit: I might have my friend do it for me, even though I shouldn't. :/
I was doing a burn out without the line locks or whatever.
Ps. I'm getting my rear sway bar this weekend.
Edit: Is the clutch really supposed to get tighter? I know in my Geo Metro I had before the clutch went out completely, I believe it wasn't like that. Fourth and Fifth gear were pretty much gone.
I was just reading on some other website how to do it by your self, sounds interesting and almost tempted to do it my self. I didn't read it all, but I read some where about you have to drive like a granny for 500 + miles. I don't think I could do that, so I might be better off just buying a used clutch, but not a bad one (MAYBE).
What about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 06-04-2009 at 07:38 PM.
#2
when doing a burn out, ALWAYS let out the clutch fully.
you can get OEM clutch disks from these sites: (and it's BURNT.)
www.latemodelrestorationsupply.com
stangmods.com
our own americanmuscle.com
pretty cheap, but a King Kobra clutch would be a nice upgrade.
you can get OEM clutch disks from these sites: (and it's BURNT.)
www.latemodelrestorationsupply.com
stangmods.com
our own americanmuscle.com
pretty cheap, but a King Kobra clutch would be a nice upgrade.
#3
when doing a burn out, ALWAYS let out the clutch fully.
you can get OEM clutch disks from these sites: (and it's BURNT.)
www.latemodelrestorationsupply.com
stangmods.com
our own americanmuscle.com
pretty cheap, but a King Kobra clutch would be a nice upgrade.
you can get OEM clutch disks from these sites: (and it's BURNT.)
www.latemodelrestorationsupply.com
stangmods.com
our own americanmuscle.com
pretty cheap, but a King Kobra clutch would be a nice upgrade.
#4
I just had a talk with my brother because today has been nothing but hell for me, left to right. I told him it would cost me like $1,000 to have it fixed. Because I remember my sister telling me it would cost her around $1,300 to fix the clutch in her WRX. I was telling him I would have to drop the motor and everything to fix it my self. He said I shouldn't have to, which is making me think it sounds really easy to do so. Still not spending $300 or so on a clutch though.
Help please?
I wouldn't be able to granny drive for 500 miles.
Help please?
I wouldn't be able to granny drive for 500 miles.
#5
I just had a talk with my father about my car, because I'm taking my SUV back for awhile. But he said I could have this done in like three hours. Jack up the car, drop the transmission and just that simple. I do have a Haynes manual, but I didn't know it would be that easy.
Now what kind of Clutch should I get or opinions please? I'm thinking of just going to CarQuest and getting the OEM Clutch. I've decided I'm just going to keep my car, but not build it up, but not let it turn into a pieace of ****. It will be my spare car. But still after either an 04 Cobra or 04 Mach 1
Now what kind of Clutch should I get or opinions please? I'm thinking of just going to CarQuest and getting the OEM Clutch. I've decided I'm just going to keep my car, but not build it up, but not let it turn into a pieace of ****. It will be my spare car. But still after either an 04 Cobra or 04 Mach 1
#6
A stock clutch from autozone is 170$. Limited lifetime warranty. The h pipe, driveshaft, and transmission, and bellhousing have to come out, and the starter has to come off.(just let it hang). Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced or you'll be doing this again. While you're doing it, you might as well replace the rear main seal since everything else will be off the car. An impact gun is your best friend on this job. And remember, the transmission weighs 75lbs without fluid in it so, if you'll be lying on the ground doing this have some *** or use the jack.
#7
A stock clutch from autozone is 170$. Limited lifetime warranty. The h pipe, driveshaft, and transmission, and bellhousing have to come out, and the starter has to come off.(just let it hang). Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced or you'll be doing this again. While you're doing it, you might as well replace the rear main seal since everything else will be off the car. An impact gun is your best friend on this job. And remember, the transmission weighs 75lbs without fluid in it so, if you'll be lying on the ground doing this have some *** or use the jack.
#8
Unless everything else is shot, all you really need is the disc, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. The bearings you only need as a precaution. Both the old flywheel and pressure plate are reusable, just make sure you get them resurfaced. Plus, $110 for a performance disc from Ford is not what I call expensive. But, you can get stock replacement discs for less. For example, Hays street discs are $86 at Jegs.
#9
A stock clutch from autozone is 170$. Limited lifetime warranty. The h pipe, driveshaft, and transmission, and bellhousing have to come out, and the starter has to come off.(just let it hang). Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced or you'll be doing this again. While you're doing it, you might as well replace the rear main seal since everything else will be off the car. An impact gun is your best friend on this job. And remember, the transmission weighs 75lbs without fluid in it so, if you'll be lying on the ground doing this have some *** or use the jack.
Get a good King Cobra or Spec clutch. Rule of thumb for Mustangs, if it breaks, that's your chance to upgrade.
No offense, but you don't exactly seem like the most mechanically minded guy, so honestly.. I don't reccommend replacing the clutch yourself, unless you have someone with experience fixing the problem. It shouldn't cost you more than $500-600 with labor and parts to have someone fix the car.
#10
We're trying to help you but this is not a 50 cent fix! Cheap parts are "cheap parts". Good parts cost. Dont try this at home if you have never done one before or helped. Resurface flywheel is a MUST like James said.
Sorry but there aint no "I Dream of Jeannie" **** for this one!
Sorry but there aint no "I Dream of Jeannie" **** for this one!
#13
I can't seem to get rid of my car because I love it, it's been through so much **** and never fails on me, but then again it's my first car I actually paid for and did work to, so that's why. It's nice to have this as a back up when I get a better car. I don't think my car is worth to upgrade it and I wont get my money worth out of it.
Anyways on the other hand, I got a friend to buy me a Clutch Kit, I just need to pick out what I want. Her father owns a shop (half owner) and they're saying $600. I'm sorry, but I'm not that big of a dick to let her get ripped off. So I told her I will find something cheaper. Now she's waiting on me.
Question:
Should I just got with the CarQuest Clutch Kit or find something else? I was looking at the King Cobra Kit on American Muscle. I don't want her to spend to much. Just looking for opinions, nothing to expensive or fancy, not worth it.
I have the Haynes manual to do it my self and my father said he would help, but I got my friend to do it.
#15
Anyways I just got done talking to my Mechanic, he said roughly $400 for a shop to do it. Maybe my other mechanic that works with him will do it. But he said his brother just got laid off and will probably do it for $40 an hour. Not bad not bad, I just need to buy the kit now.
He said I should go with something a little stronger because he knows how I am on the car. LoL so I'm thinking the King Cobra is a winner. Unless there is something better besides the Stage 2, like the Spec or something.
Thank you everyone for helping me, I've been panicing all day and thinking way to much.
#16
Nothing wrong w/ parts stores like NAPA and Car Quest. It's places like Autozone that give everyone a bad name. But this is for daily drivers only, not for spirited driving.
Now, if cost is an issue, as I said, just buy the disk. The OEM one should be fine, or you can get an upgraded disk for around $100. The Hays one I mentioned is similar to the stock disc, and is made by the same company as what most clutch companies (including Ford) use (which is Valeo). Their street/strip disc is also very pleasant as well. Just make sure you resurface the pressure plate AND flywheel, which I can't imagine it costing more than $50 total to do (most likely less). Also, get a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and just in case, a new fork and pivot ball, as these two items can be worn. And personally, I would save the cash and do it yourself as changing the clutch on a T5 is cake, as you can remove the trans separately from the bellhousing. Just make sure you get an extra hand to help.
Now, if cost is an issue, as I said, just buy the disk. The OEM one should be fine, or you can get an upgraded disk for around $100. The Hays one I mentioned is similar to the stock disc, and is made by the same company as what most clutch companies (including Ford) use (which is Valeo). Their street/strip disc is also very pleasant as well. Just make sure you resurface the pressure plate AND flywheel, which I can't imagine it costing more than $50 total to do (most likely less). Also, get a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and just in case, a new fork and pivot ball, as these two items can be worn. And personally, I would save the cash and do it yourself as changing the clutch on a T5 is cake, as you can remove the trans separately from the bellhousing. Just make sure you get an extra hand to help.
#17
Nothing wrong w/ parts stores like NAPA and Car Quest. It's places like Autozone that give everyone a bad name. But this is for daily drivers only, not for spirited driving.
Now, if cost is an issue, as I said, just buy the disk. The OEM one should be fine, or you can get an upgraded disk for around $100. The Hays one I mentioned is similar to the stock disc, and is made by the same company as what most clutch companies (including Ford) use (which is Valeo). Their street/strip disc is also very pleasant as well. Just make sure you resurface the pressure plate AND flywheel, which I can't imagine it costing more than $50 total to do (most likely less). Also, get a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and just in case, a new fork and pivot ball, as these two items can be worn. And personally, I would save the cash and do it yourself as changing the clutch on a T5 is cake, as you can remove the trans separately from the bellhousing. Just make sure you get an extra hand to help.
Now, if cost is an issue, as I said, just buy the disk. The OEM one should be fine, or you can get an upgraded disk for around $100. The Hays one I mentioned is similar to the stock disc, and is made by the same company as what most clutch companies (including Ford) use (which is Valeo). Their street/strip disc is also very pleasant as well. Just make sure you resurface the pressure plate AND flywheel, which I can't imagine it costing more than $50 total to do (most likely less). Also, get a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and just in case, a new fork and pivot ball, as these two items can be worn. And personally, I would save the cash and do it yourself as changing the clutch on a T5 is cake, as you can remove the trans separately from the bellhousing. Just make sure you get an extra hand to help.
My friend is going to buy me the kit and if not I don't mind paying for the King Cobra Kit and it's worth it. It's not really really money, even though I spent all mine on my bike. It's more is it worth it in my car or not. :/
How long should this take? I'm fighting with my friend, he says 6 hours, even though I told him don't have to take the engine out or drop it. He is bitching saying you have to and he knows this, I find it hella funny. Something about him that's starting to make me wonder.
What do they have at CarQuest and Napa have for Clutch Kits?
Edit: This is what I found on how to do it. LoL
http://allfordmustangs.com/forums/94...ment-help.html
Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 06-05-2009 at 04:11 PM.
#18
This http://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-hd...45-clutch.html
this http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...nsmission.html
or this http://www.americanmuscle.com/fidanz...v8-clutch.html
should be more than enough for your needs and all cost less and will handle more HP/torques than the king cobra kit.
Looking at other posts here the Spec clutches seem to be the most popular. Remember to either get your flywheel resurfaced or get a new one when you do the swap.
this http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...nsmission.html
or this http://www.americanmuscle.com/fidanz...v8-clutch.html
should be more than enough for your needs and all cost less and will handle more HP/torques than the king cobra kit.
Looking at other posts here the Spec clutches seem to be the most popular. Remember to either get your flywheel resurfaced or get a new one when you do the swap.
#19
Kits generally only come w/ the disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Personally, I would just buy an upgraded disc and use the stock pressure plate, considering your engine doesn't dictate anything more. Hays, Ford Racing, Centerforce, Ram, etc. are good choices. I'd personally would stay away from SPEC since I hear mixed reviews from them. But that's just me. Basically, just save your cash and get a better disc, as well as the other parts I mentioned since they are normal wear parts and you might as well replace them while you're down there.
Now, the engine doesn't need to be touched to remove the clutch. However, 6 hours sounds right, but that sounds right for the DIYer, not a mechanic. A mechanic should be able to do it in an afternoon.
Now, the engine doesn't need to be touched to remove the clutch. However, 6 hours sounds right, but that sounds right for the DIYer, not a mechanic. A mechanic should be able to do it in an afternoon.
#20
This http://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-hd...45-clutch.html
this http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...nsmission.html
or this http://www.americanmuscle.com/fidanz...v8-clutch.html
should be more than enough for your needs and all cost less and will handle more HP/torques than the king cobra kit.
Looking at other posts here the Spec clutches seem to be the most popular. Remember to either get your flywheel resurfaced or get a new one when you do the swap.
this http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...nsmission.html
or this http://www.americanmuscle.com/fidanz...v8-clutch.html
should be more than enough for your needs and all cost less and will handle more HP/torques than the king cobra kit.
Looking at other posts here the Spec clutches seem to be the most popular. Remember to either get your flywheel resurfaced or get a new one when you do the swap.
Kits generally only come w/ the disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. Personally, I would just buy an upgraded disc and use the stock pressure plate, considering your engine doesn't dictate anything more. Hays, Ford Racing, Centerforce, Ram, etc. are good choices. I'd personally would stay away from SPEC since I hear mixed reviews from them. But that's just me. Basically, just save your cash and get a better disc, as well as the other parts I mentioned since they are normal wear parts and you might as well replace them while you're down there.
Now, the engine doesn't need to be touched to remove the clutch. However, 6 hours sounds right, but that sounds right for the DIYer, not a mechanic. A mechanic should be able to do it in an afternoon.
Now, the engine doesn't need to be touched to remove the clutch. However, 6 hours sounds right, but that sounds right for the DIYer, not a mechanic. A mechanic should be able to do it in an afternoon.
How do you know so much? I was told 2-3 hours to do it.
Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 06-05-2009 at 04:29 PM.
#21
********************************************** PLEASE READ **********************************************
Alright so I just got done doing some stuff, I was going to take my SUV to go to my brothers, but decided to take the car. Since I stopped driving it once I figured it was burnt. It still felt like **** and the gears were missing when I tried to floor it.
Go to my brothers, he's being a dick, but oh well. Got back in my car and my clutch was like back to normal, not aggressive or hard to push it. I didn't do anything, but let it run while I was talking to my brother. So I was like um okay, took off fast, seemed better. Then I decided to speed, really fast through 1st 2nd and 3rd gear to make sure. It seemed normal and just fine. After that I had my father go for a drive with me to test it.
Then my mechanic comes back, I asked him why the peddle was so rough, hard to push in and aggressive. He said that the clutch was probably really hot and needed to cool down or whatever. Which makes since, but I don't get why it would be so rough, hard to push it and aggressive.
Then my mechanic comes back, I asked him why the peddle was so rough, hard to push in and aggressive. He said that the clutch was probably really hot and needed to cool down or whatever. Which makes since, but I don't get why it would be so rough, hard to push it and aggressive.
Then I proceeded to take my father for a spin, he's not used to the whole racing/speeding thing, kind of scared him. He said it seemed fine, but right before I was about to head home. He said to put it into 2nd gear and try go take off. Car took off just fine and got up to speed pretty fast, but not as fast as 1st gear.
So pretty much my car is completely fine, besides a feel mirror things I have to do. I just wanted to apologize for everyone probably getting frusrated with my stupidity and maybe wasting your time. I am glad that my clutch is fine, went through a lot of **** and seems to be normal. I'd say this is one strong *** car and takes a lot of my bullshit, ha-ha I love it. That's probably why I can't get rid of it.
Anyways once again thank you for all the help and at least I know what I will be looking to get next time I need a clutch or anything and I will know how to do it.
Anyways once again thank you for all the help and at least I know what I will be looking to get next time I need a clutch or anything and I will know how to do it.
Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; 06-05-2009 at 04:59 PM.
#22
Don't forget to check out your clutch cable for appropriate adjustment. Just lift up on the pedal and press down slowly until you stop hearing clicking.
Also, I know a lot since I just recently did my clutch and I searched around for months before I settled on my kit. I just wish I had the T5 since that would have made life infinitely easier.
Also, I know a lot since I just recently did my clutch and I searched around for months before I settled on my kit. I just wish I had the T5 since that would have made life infinitely easier.
#23
It sounds like you slipped the clutch to much and got it super hot. It also sounds like you need to check your clutches adjustment. I don't know if you have the stock setup for adjustment or a firewall adjuster but make sure that the clutch is engaging in the middle and not the top or bottom of the pedal travel.
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