http://www.americanmuscle.com/dba-fr...rs-0509v6.html

has anyone tried these? I've heard of warping in drilled/slotted rotors before but does that happen in high quality/high dollar brakes? (or is the high dollar just import tax? lol)

also, if I replace my rotors with the dba gold's and replace the pads with hawk the only thing I will need to do is get better brake lines? and why doesn't american muscle have any steel braided lines except in the $2k+ kits?

if you don't like these, got a suggestion?
personally I think the temperature color paint is pretty cool and the rotors look nice and are backed by mf 1yr warranty but then again I'm new to the scene


edit:

what is up with the difference between gt and v6 brake setups. I can't find stainless steel braided lines for the v6 anywhere

 

In my opinion it would be a waste of money. The car will not stop faster. You run the higher risk of cracking. I would just get some NAPA (or similar auto parts store) blank rotors and call it a day. Brembo wouldn't be a bad idea but there have even been claims that Brembo at one time sourced out thier rotors from some chinese company.

I beleive you can buy a GT upgrade brackets for pretty cheap for the 05+ cars, the brake lines may be the same even if they don't say so.

 

These are what most people switch too eventualy. Cost less than DBA and aren't crossdrilled. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

The reason you can't find brake lines for the V6 is it's the same part as the GT aparently. Here are a few different brands.



http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

And of course the MM lines.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS

 

I don't see why people say cross-drilled rotors or slotted aren't any better.

Yes you lose strength, but you also dissipate more heat and produce more volume for the pad to touch the rotor because gas and other materials are able to escape more easily.

I've never heard of gas causing cracking or warping in rotors that are cross drilled or slotted. Actually solid rotors are more likely to warp because the heat is kept in the rotor and cannot escape. Heat causes the warping.

A couple of the guys down at the House of Boost said that the DBA rotors or the Powerslots are really good to run simply for light street/track use. Plus their much cheaper than Brembo kits or Brembo rotors.

 

So even though it says "gt only does not fit the v6," it will in fact fit the v6? Does that mean the SLP LL's will also fit on the 6'er?


edit:

second question, I'm guessing the SLP LL's are a replacement for brake lines w/ added line-locking feature?

 

Heat isn't the issue, as all rotors are vented (except the rear on the V6/GTs). In addition, unless you push the car exceptionally hard, gas generation isn't a problem, as you rarely see temperatures that high, except in racing situations. The best solution is a plain faced rotor, that is thicker as the thickness helps absorb more heat and resist warping. In most cases, drilled and/or slotted rotors aren't even recommended for race duty, as the extreme conditions will cause cracking and/or warping (as slotted rotors don't have a constant thickness and drilled rotors have stress concentration points at the holes).

 

The purpose of having big disk brake rotors is to dissapate heat away from the calipers and pad from the friction of stopping. The more mass you have to absorb and then dissapate the heat the better. Plain faced rotors have the most mass to act as a heat sink. Drilled, sloted rotors arn't going to disappate heat any faster than a blank rotor, but rather not be capable to absorb as much heat resulting the hotter calipers, pads, fluid, leading to fade under extreme conditions. And drilled, slotted rotors are usually more likely to crack due to the fact that they already have holes or slots in the metal for cracks to start. Most of this has already been stated in some way or another.

 

But, my understanding is that the slots and holes that are drilled allow more of the rotor to see the surface, giving it more surface volume to cool off.

Therefore, the cross-drilled or slots are more likely to stay cool.

I can drive the Cobra through the track two laps, one warm-up one actual lap, and as soon as I pull into the pits the brakes are cool enough to touch. The 08, no way. The solid-discs are almost as hot as the exhaust is after only two laps. The brakes on the Termi are cross-drilled two-piece rotors.

I understand the stress issue in the fact that slotted and cross-drilled take away mass and tensile strength, but I've never personally seen or heard or rotors cracking in my days of watching road racing and driving myself.

 

That's because there's a difference between what the racers use, and what the general public uses. Plus, it wouldn't be surprising if the rotors are changed at every race.

Secondly, the holes/slots do not promote cooling, as the slots can't provide convection heat transfer and thus, no cooling. And for the holes, they probably hinder cooling since most companies don't design the internal vanes to compensate for the holes. What helps your Cobra more is the two piece design, as the Aluminum hub portion helps dissipate heat better and I bet the rotors themselves are thicker. Combine that w/ the fact that the Cobra is most likely lighter, it requires less braking torque and thus less heat is created as a result.

 

what about stainless steel pipes VS stainless steel braided hoses?

 

All I'm saying is I want to be able to race in the rain. None of that Nascar solid rotor crap, I want to be all go all the time.

As for stainless pipes vs. hoses why would you even want pipes? They're going to be a PITA to work with. At least to me it seems like it would be. Stainless steel braided would be all that you would need for a good quality and pedal response.

Who even sells steel pipes?

 

lol it looks like the SLP LL comes with pipes.. or do you have to use the ones it comes with for it to work? I'd ask some shops around here but the only good ones are a long drive away and very pricey

 

FWIW, I love the cross drilled rotors that I installed on my Audi. Even after a hard run I can still touch my hand to the rotors. Just make sure they are actual cross drilled rotors, and not rotors that have cast holes. They've been on my car about three years now, and I have yet to see a single crack.

 

The ones on the Termi are cross-drilled as well. I regret waiting as long as I did to fork out the $1,300, because it's the best money I've ever spent.