Rotors Question
I'm going to go buy some cheap rotors from CarQuest, but this time I'm having them turned and done right. After I get them turned I'm going to spray paint them Satin Black (thanks to Sean) and then put them on whenever I stop procrastinating on doing it.
Question: Is there anything I have to do besides turning them? I know with brakes you have to like granny stop or something to break them in. I had new rotors, but they got wrapped and they didn't get turned, my friend just sanded them a little and then sprayed them down with some stuff. |
You do not turn new rotors as they are already smooth and not warped. Just get the stockers turned and then add new pads and fluid and move on.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 394702)
You do not turn new rotors as they are already smooth and not warped. Just get the stockers turned and then add new pads and fluid and move on.
I meant to say these are for the rear rotors, because mine are warped and make this freaking annoying sound. Now another question, we were goign to get High Heat Satin Gloss Black, but how high of heat? There was only like 500 or something. Should I sand these down a little bit to get the paint to stick better? |
Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 394713)
Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 394713)
Isnt paint kinda pointless because your break pads will just rub it off? Then again i guess it depends where you paint it.
Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
(Post 394712)
Yeah I just read that, but if that's so. Then I don't get why my rotors got warped in the first place. Is there anything I'm supposed to do, granny stop, slow down or something? I got new brakes not to long ago or should I still replace them? What's the stockers?
I meant to say these are for the rear rotors, because mine are warped and make this freaking annoying sound. Now another question, we were goign to get High Heat Satin Gloss Black, but how high of heat? There was only like 500 or something. Should I sand these down a little bit to get the paint to stick better? |
Originally Posted by SeanStang
(Post 394716)
On the stock sized rotors yes, the pads clean off basically the whole rotor. Unless your really anal and want the hats painted I guess. If your putting on new rotors may as well throw some paint on the hats imo, so easy and doesn't take long at all.
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Originally Posted by SeanStang
(Post 394716)
On the stock sized rotors yes, the pads clean off basically the whole rotor. Unless your really anal and want the hats painted I guess. If your putting on new rotors may as well throw some paint on the hats imo, so easy and doesn't take long at all.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 394718)
Brakes warp from being overheated and cooled rapidly its just the way things are with stock Ford rotors and how you drive. If you are on the brakes all the time hard, and holding them at lights (this is my theory) tends to make them warp faster too. Stockers of course is referring to your stock parts on you car. As for paint you can get 1200* black paint from any local auto parts store and it will do the job nicely. If you already have 500* paint I would go ahead and use it as I'm sure your not gonna get them that hot unless you autocross a lot, or drive steep mountain roads a lot.
All I know is that when I'm driving window down or up you can hear some sqeaky noise badly and it's so annoying. When you're actually fully on the breaks slowing down it goes away.
Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 394719)
True, cant hurt.
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The rotors warp not the pads. Stock style pads do not need any special setup to make them work. Just toss them in, add some anti squeal compound on the back of the brake pads (found at any parts store) and you can go drive right away. If you had more serious pads then you would need to bed them in. Stock oem organic stuff no worries there.
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
(Post 394819)
The rotors warp not the pads. Stock style pads do not need any special setup to make them work. Just toss them in, add some anti squeal compound on the back of the brake pads (found at any parts store) and you can go drive right away. If you had more serious pads then you would need to bed them in. Stock oem organic stuff no worries there.
Yeah I got the Anti-Sueal in a spray can formula. |
Take a real hard grit sandpaper to your hats, then paint it, and yeah brake pads very rarely get warped, and i just put new pads on my car and i dont granny stop lol.
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IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.
So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too. |
Yea i normally buy decent brakes, not the cheapest on the market but, decent ones. I just buy duralast brand from autozone.
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Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet
(Post 394888)
IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.
So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too. I bought rotors from CarQuest because someone told me that AutoZone sucks and I don't wnat to spend a lot of money. :/ I don't know, I can't think right now. Thank you for your reply. Oh and there isn't anything wrong with my front rotors or brakes, I haven't even touched them once and they're fine, all stock and cheap I'm sure as well. |
Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet
(Post 394888)
IMO the reason you keep having this problem (other than driving habits) would be the part were you keep buying the cheap parts. I have had the EXACT same problem as you have on every vehicle I have owned. I was always broke and had to get what I could (the cheap crap) and I am VERY hard on brakes. Well after I bought my stang new. I drove on the stock stuff for a couple years. I think it was somewhere around the 40-50k mile mark I guess my rotors started warping. I drove with seriuosly bad peddal pulse and a shaky steering wheel till my taxes came in. I went and got some good rotors. I paid 210 for the front and the same for the back (420 total just with rotors) What I got were the Baer Deacalla (sp?) drilled and slotted rotors. I must admit, that has been the best damn money I have ever spent on any car. I put those on at like 70 some odd thousand miles. I am now aproaching 105k. My brakes are just as perfect now as the were when I first put em on.
So in the end I must advise you, go ahead and bite the bullet and get you some quality parts. Im not saying you got to spend 600 bucks on brakes like I did. But Im sure you can get some better stuff than they sell bottom line at local parts houses. Look at it like I did, pay a little more now and forget it, or pay a little and have to worry about it again sooner than you should have too. As for the rotors, turning is for old, used rotors. Also, you can't turn warped ones since they'll warp even easier the next time. If they're warped, just buy the new rotors and install them. Your pads should be fine but if it makes you feel better, you can sand them just a little bit to have fresh pad exposed to the new rotor. As for paint, don't bother. The paint will eventually flake and cause even worse rust. Make sure you break the pads in again w/ the new rotors. |
Just my 2 cents:
The cheapo carquest rotors are made in china. I have 2 friends that work there, so I know all about what they sell. I buy these for my daily driver. Not bad for about $20 each for my Civic. But, mine are less than 2 years old now and I feel the pedal pulsating when I stop...so they are slightly warped already. If you want good rotors, by raybestos or bendix. They are made in Canada, but pricey. If you don't mind changing every 2 years(or less), buy the carquest ones. New rotors are already machined(dont need to be turned). Just spray with brake cleaner to get the anti-rust coating off and only paint the areas where the pads dont contact. You dont want to foul up new pads with paint residue(although it would probably just wear off or burn off). I'd eitherbuy caliper paint(something like 900F or higher heat 1200). 400 or 500 degree paint will just burn off quick. If you buy new pads and rotors, you actually bed in by braking hard...not granny braking. Make a hard stop...let cool and repeat a bunch of times. Performance brake companies recommend this....the chinese might not!??? |
if you want good rotors, made in the USA for cheap then get pro-stop off ebay from TMD (The Mustang Depot, Palmyrta Dr. Riverside, CA). They're great stuff. Tried to warp mine and failed.
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Originally Posted by ANDYS87
(Post 395047)
Just my 2 cents:
The cheapo carquest rotors are made in china. I have 2 friends that work there, so I know all about what they sell. I buy these for my daily driver. Not bad for about $20 each for my Civic. But, mine are less than 2 years old now and I feel the pedal pulsating when I stop...so they are slightly warped already. If you want good rotors, by raybestos or bendix. They are made in Canada, but pricey. If you don't mind changing every 2 years(or less), buy the carquest ones. New rotors are already machined(dont need to be turned). Just spray with brake cleaner to get the anti-rust coating off and only paint the areas where the pads dont contact. You dont want to foul up new pads with paint residue(although it would probably just wear off or burn off). I'd eitherbuy caliper paint(something like 900F or higher heat 1200). 400 or 500 degree paint will just burn off quick. If you buy new pads and rotors, you actually bed in by braking hard...not granny braking. Make a hard stop...let cool and repeat a bunch of times. Performance brake companies recommend this....the chinese might not!??? |
Bassman,
I agree. Carquest sells some good stuff. I buy a lot there. For example, Carquest batteries are made by the same company as Diehard and others. The Carquest synthetic oil is Valvoline. They have Wix oil filters, etc. There are different grades of brakes they sell. On some cars, you can get the good ones(probably Bendix or Raybestos), and also the cheap ones(made in China). For my honda, I get the cheap stuff. I didn't buy my Mustang rotors/pads there, so I don't know how many choices there are. One auto store I don't buy parts at anymore is Pepboys. From a muffler that didn't fit(not even close), to a bad alternator(new), to leaking spark plug wires, a distributor that looked used, etc, etc. Had lots of bad luck with their parts...... |
Same here, never tried them for my car as I go w/ Ford (Cobra brake kits) and Satisfied for pads. However, for the Honda, it wouldn't surprise me if that was OEM since my GF had horribly warped rotors (bad enough to scare the shit out of people when she braked on the highway), which were stock and was shot by 40,000 miles. I'm pretty sure my GF doesn't do any kind of intense braking like I do either. But alas, Biker is on a budget and the best budget parts are from them or NAPA. I just don't want people to make the mistake of going w/ stores like Autozone, who's employees tell buyers to grease their pads (entirely), or who's parts are made in China and made for price, not quality.
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w00t to that man!
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Well I bought some rear rotors from CarQuest last night, they were like $35 for one. The rotors that came with the car I have no clue what they were, but they still were in the plastic. It didn't take long for them to warp and I got new brake pads from CarQuest at the time as well. This was around December, maybe between that and November. But either way it didn't take long for them to start fucking up. I hate the fucking sound half to death.
Should I get new brake pads from them? Yeah my budget it is okay now, the good news is I can get the loan to get my motorcycle. See I don't want to put much into my car because I don't like it like that, well not that much. I'm not a fan of the 95 body styles, I like the 99-04 styles a lot better. So I kind of want to sell it and get a newer model. Then I'll start modding that out. |
Feel free to. I used their shoes w/ no problems yet. Just make sure you reuse the anti-rattle clips from the old pads (unless the new ones come w/ new ones).
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 395449)
Feel free to. I used their shoes w/ no problems yet. Just make sure you reuse the anti-rattle clips from the old pads (unless the new ones come w/ new ones).
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Shoes are for drum brakes. Instead of having pads, drum brakes have shoes, which are like long skinny pads that pivot instead of slide.
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 396004)
Shoes are for drum brakes. Instead of having pads, drum brakes have shoes, which are like long skinny pads that pivot instead of slide.
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my rotors almost rip my dash out..
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My bad. On the pads, where they slide on the bracket, they're little metal clips that attach to the pads.
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 396498)
My bad. On the pads, where they slide on the bracket, they're little metal clips that attach to the pads.
Picture help maybe? :D Also do they come with the Brakd Pads from CarQuest? Edit: I'm guessing it's this? but I don't think, I'm sure I don't have the clips and my brake pads just like sat in it's slot. http://www.3.8mustang.com/wiki/images/3/31/178074.jpg Do they come with clips from CarQuest? Also why does that little black metal thin pieace not stay on the back of it? |
You have them, don't worry. See where the pads ride on the bracket? The clips are the pieces of metal that's between the pad and bracket. Also, not sure if the Car Quest pads will come w/ new ones but these clips are reusable.
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 396600)
You have them, don't worry. See where the pads ride on the bracket? The clips are the pieces of metal that's between the pad and bracket. Also, not sure if the Car Quest pads will come w/ new ones but these clips are reusable.
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So I guess the picture was not of your car then? If that's the case, when you order the pads, look to see if the clips come w/ it. If not, you need to make a trip to the dealer (and probably order OEM pads then). However, you do know what I'm talking about right?
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Originally Posted by bassman97
(Post 396699)
So I guess the picture was not of your car then? If that's the case, when you order the pads, look to see if the clips come w/ it. If not, you need to make a trip to the dealer (and probably order OEM pads then). However, you do know what I'm talking about right?
Ps. I think that's a Ford Truck by the looks of the axle and exhaust. What will having the clips do? |
4 Attachment(s)
Ill getcha a pic of the clips i think your talkin bout, 1 sec.
Check out the little tiny rusty thing between the red gap and everything. id take a pic of it with pads off but just for pics idts lol. the real upclose one with white behind it has best pic. if this doesnt help try google bro. |
Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 396806)
Ill getcha a pic of the clips i think your talkin bout, 1 sec.
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Dunno if you has seen but lookie up ^^
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 396831)
Dunno if you has seen but lookie up ^^
I'm going to go check now, hopefully I can see. |
Is it a real loose fit? On mine it was pretty dam well snug, plus theres a little click because of the clips.
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Originally Posted by Deathdiesel
(Post 396848)
Is it a real loose fit? On mine it was pretty dam well snug, plus theres a little click because of the clips.
Edit: So I can't tell now, but I swear I was able to push on it and it would move. Since my rotors are warpped I'm sure that they're in contact constantly. I tried to look in the front brakes and I couldn't tell. Here are pictures of the rear. First two are the driver side and the last one is the passenger side. I wish I would activate my phone, better pictures (3.2) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...8065376389.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...8065292037.jpg So yeah, the last one doesn't want to upload :( |
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