Brake Pedel Problem
#1
Brake Pedel Problem
Brake Pedal Problem***
About a month ago I went to the car wash and I noticed that my brake pedal has like air in them. I just recently bleeded all the brakes and made sure that there was fluid, but it's still doing the same thing. I can't figure out what's wrong with it, besides maybe it has to do with the Master Brake Cylinder. Pretty much stepping on the pedal about half way it's all air and no braking. I also think it doesn't brake as good as it used to.
Any ideas?
About a month ago I went to the car wash and I noticed that my brake pedal has like air in them. I just recently bleeded all the brakes and made sure that there was fluid, but it's still doing the same thing. I can't figure out what's wrong with it, besides maybe it has to do with the Master Brake Cylinder. Pretty much stepping on the pedal about half way it's all air and no braking. I also think it doesn't brake as good as it used to.
Any ideas?
#2
If there is any air in your brake lines, you could've blown the line (hence the air coming out sound), but it wouldn't brake AT ALL...so I'm kind of stumped here. Is this a problem on one side of the car only? Front back? RF, LF, RR, LR....anything specific?
#3
I rode in a car just the other day in which I was told that the brake lines were leaking, I was already miles down the road, eek. I would just bleed the brakes a couple of times, even flush the fluid. How much pad do you have left? And the the past tense of bleed is bled.
#4
I rode in a car just the other day in which I was told that the brake lines were leaking, I was already miles down the road, eek. I would just bleed the brakes a couple of times, even flush the fluid. How much pad do you have left? And the the past tense of bleed is bled.
Edit: When we did my rotors and brakes (a friend) I was pumping the brakes and they were tight after we were done, but this was in like Octorber I think. When I just bled the brakes recently when I was pumping the pedal it was tight, but after we were done it wasn't. I can't really think, but I don't think the brakes work that well, like stop as good as they should.
#9
You will see bleeder screws on it. Also, are you bleeding them right? Remember, pump the brakes several times, open the valve (while someone is pushing the pedal down), close the valve before fluid stops moving, and repeat until no air is seen (and keep the fluid level up too). I also second changing the fluid but before going through all the trouble, just check your hoses. If they look like rubber that's been out in the sun too long, get new ones, they could be causing a slow leak or just ballooning. In addition, while someone pushes as hard as possible on the brake pedal, check to see if you notice any leaks or ballooning.
#10
You will see bleeder screws on it. Also, are you bleeding them right? Remember, pump the brakes several times, open the valve (while someone is pushing the pedal down), close the valve before fluid stops moving, and repeat until no air is seen (and keep the fluid level up too). I also second changing the fluid but before going through all the trouble, just check your hoses. If they look like rubber that's been out in the sun too long, get new ones, they could be causing a slow leak or just ballooning. In addition, while someone pushes as hard as possible on the brake pedal, check to see if you notice any leaks or ballooning.
#12
No I haven't done that, I don't even know how. LoL
#13
Its just like bleeding the calipers. There are bleed screws on the master cylinder to get air out of it. I don't know how many there on the older non hydraboost cars, but 99+ has 2 bleed screws and I'm pretty sure yours does to.
#14
Even if a car does not have designated bleed screws, you can still bleed the MS. I've had to do that in class when we R&R master cylinders from school vehicles. You just need someone else to push down the pedal, then you take a wrench and slowly crack the nut on the line (making sure to put something under there to catch any fluid.) Then with the pedal STILL depressed by the person in the car, you tighten the nut back up. You do this several times until there is no more air coming out when you crack it, then repeat for the other line(s).
#15
Even if a car does not have designated bleed screws, you can still bleed the MS. I've had to do that in class when we R&R master cylinders from school vehicles. You just need someone else to push down the pedal, then you take a wrench and slowly crack the nut on the line (making sure to put something under there to catch any fluid.) Then with the pedal STILL depressed by the person in the car, you tighten the nut back up. You do this several times until there is no more air coming out when you crack it, then repeat for the other line(s).
#16
If you bled the calipers like you said and they are still soft then the master cylinder has air in it. As for where to bleed it will have bleed screws just like the ones on the calipers on the part under the brake fluid reservoir.
#17
I meant if I bleed the Master Cylinder and it still does it. What else could be the problem? I'll probably bleed the Master Cylinder this weekend when I paint my car. Thank you!
#18
Either your lines are ballooning, the fluid is too old, or there's a leak somewhere (have someone really press hard on the pedal while you look over all the lines). However, make sure the fluid is new and has no air in it first.
#19
I'm not sure if the fluid is bad or good, I know I've kept the level up and put like a whole 12 FL OZ in over time.
Where exactly are all the lines so I can check? Any idea on what kind of fluid I should use? I've been putting this STP Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT3.
#20
So my brother and I were going to bleed the Master Cyclinder, but I can't find out where or what I'm even looking for.
I'm not sure if the fluid is bad or good, I know I've kept the level up and put like a whole 12 FL OZ in over time.
Where exactly are all the lines so I can check? Any idea on what kind of fluid I should use? I've been putting this STP Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT3.
I'm not sure if the fluid is bad or good, I know I've kept the level up and put like a whole 12 FL OZ in over time.
Where exactly are all the lines so I can check? Any idea on what kind of fluid I should use? I've been putting this STP Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT3.
Its this piece right here with the reservoir on top of it.
#21
Sorry, but I'm stupid and can't see. Talking about the metal thing that's coming out like a rod below it? Mine looks like that, but I didn't see anything with a hole where it will bleed out. :/
#23
#25
I know, I can't seem to see the bleed screws, there is no holes where it bleeds out. :/ or I'm just blind.
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