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Old 03-02-2009, 05:10 PM
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Default Brake Pedel Problem

Brake Pedal Problem***

About a month ago I went to the car wash and I noticed that my brake pedal has like air in them. I just recently bleeded all the brakes and made sure that there was fluid, but it's still doing the same thing. I can't figure out what's wrong with it, besides maybe it has to do with the Master Brake Cylinder. Pretty much stepping on the pedal about half way it's all air and no braking. I also think it doesn't brake as good as it used to.

Any ideas?
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:13 PM
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If there is any air in your brake lines, you could've blown the line (hence the air coming out sound), but it wouldn't brake AT ALL...so I'm kind of stumped here. Is this a problem on one side of the car only? Front back? RF, LF, RR, LR....anything specific?
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:36 PM
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I rode in a car just the other day in which I was told that the brake lines were leaking, I was already miles down the road, eek. I would just bleed the brakes a couple of times, even flush the fluid. How much pad do you have left? And the the past tense of bleed is bled.
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by King
If there is any air in your brake lines, you could've blown the line (hence the air coming out sound), but it wouldn't brake AT ALL...so I'm kind of stumped here. Is this a problem on one side of the car only? Front back? RF, LF, RR, LR....anything specific?
Yeah I bled the brakes multiple times. I did the back brakes twice at different times. Then the front and back just recently. I can't tell what side it is, my brakes work fine, but just the gap is really annoying. I haven't seen any leaks and we couldn't find any. When we bled them it was just straight fluid with no air in them. It could have been like this for awhile, but I noticed it one day and it's been bugging me since there is a gap. We thought the brakes just needed to be bled, but we've done that and still nothing.

Originally Posted by 01FR500
I rode in a car just the other day in which I was told that the brake lines were leaking, I was already miles down the road, eek. I would just bleed the brakes a couple of times, even flush the fluid. How much pad do you have left? And the the past tense of bleed is bled.
Yeah, I wasn't sure how to spell it, thanks. The pads in the back are brand new, with rotors (warped) and the front brakes I'm not sure, but I think they're fine.

Edit: When we did my rotors and brakes (a friend) I was pumping the brakes and they were tight after we were done, but this was in like Octorber I think. When I just bled the brakes recently when I was pumping the pedal it was tight, but after we were done it wasn't. I can't really think, but I don't think the brakes work that well, like stop as good as they should.
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:17 PM
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You bled the brakes while the car was off, right?
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by King
You bled the brakes while the car was off, right?
Correct!
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:24 PM
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instead of just bleeding the brakes, try also bleeding the master cylinder itself.. sometimes that will help..
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SxyXc
instead of just bleeding the brakes, try also bleeding the master cylinder itself.. sometimes that will help..
How do I do that? LoL
 
  #9  
Old 03-03-2009, 04:07 AM
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You will see bleeder screws on it. Also, are you bleeding them right? Remember, pump the brakes several times, open the valve (while someone is pushing the pedal down), close the valve before fluid stops moving, and repeat until no air is seen (and keep the fluid level up too). I also second changing the fluid but before going through all the trouble, just check your hoses. If they look like rubber that's been out in the sun too long, get new ones, they could be causing a slow leak or just ballooning. In addition, while someone pushes as hard as possible on the brake pedal, check to see if you notice any leaks or ballooning.
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bassman97
You will see bleeder screws on it. Also, are you bleeding them right? Remember, pump the brakes several times, open the valve (while someone is pushing the pedal down), close the valve before fluid stops moving, and repeat until no air is seen (and keep the fluid level up too). I also second changing the fluid but before going through all the trouble, just check your hoses. If they look like rubber that's been out in the sun too long, get new ones, they could be causing a slow leak or just ballooning. In addition, while someone pushes as hard as possible on the brake pedal, check to see if you notice any leaks or ballooning.
Yes I bled them right, I did it twice at different times with different mechanics. Yes the fluid level is full and yes I know what screws are what and yes I know what I'm doing. We didn't see any leaks what so ever. Unless they're some how not leaking on the ground and I didn't check the line, but I do know for a fact there is no air in the line.
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:55 PM
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But did you bleed the bleed screws on the master cylinder? You can bleed the calipers all you want, but that wont get the air out of the master cylinder.
 
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
But did you bleed the bleed screws on the master cylinder? You can bleed the calipers all you want, but that wont get the air out of the master cylinder.
Then I apologize to the other guy, I was reading it wrong and not having a good day.

No I haven't done that, I don't even know how. LoL
 
  #13  
Old 03-04-2009, 06:24 AM
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Its just like bleeding the calipers. There are bleed screws on the master cylinder to get air out of it. I don't know how many there on the older non hydraboost cars, but 99+ has 2 bleed screws and I'm pretty sure yours does to.
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 01:13 PM
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Even if a car does not have designated bleed screws, you can still bleed the MS. I've had to do that in class when we R&R master cylinders from school vehicles. You just need someone else to push down the pedal, then you take a wrench and slowly crack the nut on the line (making sure to put something under there to catch any fluid.) Then with the pedal STILL depressed by the person in the car, you tighten the nut back up. You do this several times until there is no more air coming out when you crack it, then repeat for the other line(s).
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by audikillsbmw
Even if a car does not have designated bleed screws, you can still bleed the MS. I've had to do that in class when we R&R master cylinders from school vehicles. You just need someone else to push down the pedal, then you take a wrench and slowly crack the nut on the line (making sure to put something under there to catch any fluid.) Then with the pedal STILL depressed by the person in the car, you tighten the nut back up. You do this several times until there is no more air coming out when you crack it, then repeat for the other line(s).
Originally Posted by spike_africa
Its just like bleeding the calipers. There are bleed screws on the master cylinder to get air out of it. I don't know how many there on the older non hydraboost cars, but 99+ has 2 bleed screws and I'm pretty sure yours does to.
Thanks, that's simple enough, but where do I find the screws on the Master Cylinder? What if that's not the problem? I hope it is, but just saying.
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:31 PM
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If you bled the calipers like you said and they are still soft then the master cylinder has air in it. As for where to bleed it will have bleed screws just like the ones on the calipers on the part under the brake fluid reservoir.
 
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
If you bled the calipers like you said and they are still soft then the master cylinder has air in it. As for where to bleed it will have bleed screws just like the ones on the calipers on the part under the brake fluid reservoir.
I meant if I bleed the Master Cylinder and it still does it. What else could be the problem? I'll probably bleed the Master Cylinder this weekend when I paint my car. Thank you!
 
  #18  
Old 03-05-2009, 05:54 AM
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Either your lines are ballooning, the fluid is too old, or there's a leak somewhere (have someone really press hard on the pedal while you look over all the lines). However, make sure the fluid is new and has no air in it first.
 
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bassman97
Either your lines are ballooning, the fluid is too old, or there's a leak somewhere (have someone really press hard on the pedal while you look over all the lines). However, make sure the fluid is new and has no air in it first.
So my brother and I were going to bleed the Master Cyclinder, but I can't find out where or what I'm even looking for.

I'm not sure if the fluid is bad or good, I know I've kept the level up and put like a whole 12 FL OZ in over time.

Where exactly are all the lines so I can check? Any idea on what kind of fluid I should use? I've been putting this STP Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT3.
 
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid
So my brother and I were going to bleed the Master Cyclinder, but I can't find out where or what I'm even looking for.

I'm not sure if the fluid is bad or good, I know I've kept the level up and put like a whole 12 FL OZ in over time.

Where exactly are all the lines so I can check? Any idea on what kind of fluid I should use? I've been putting this STP Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT3.
The master cylinder is what has the brake fluid reservoir on top of it.

Its this piece right here with the reservoir on top of it.
 
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
The master cylinder is what has the brake fluid reservoir on top of it.

Its this piece right here with the reservoir on top of it.
Sorry, but I'm stupid and can't see. Talking about the metal thing that's coming out like a rod below it? Mine looks like that, but I didn't see anything with a hole where it will bleed out. :/
 
  #22  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:22 AM
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Yes the part that is connected under the reservoir is the master cylinder and what you need to bleed.
 
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by spike_africa
Yes the part that is connected under the reservoir is the master cylinder and what you need to bleed.
Just to make sure, I circled it to see if it's what I'm thinking. Because I don't see a bleed hole and I'm just dumb.
 
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2009, 08:35 PM
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Those were the fittings on the lines that I mentioned earlier. However, everyone else is saying that your car should have a bleed screw (or screws,) so you need to check.
 
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by audikillsbmw
Those were the fittings on the lines that I mentioned earlier. However, everyone else is saying that your car should have a bleed screw (or screws,) so you need to check.
I know, I can't seem to see the bleed screws, there is no holes where it bleeds out. :/ or I'm just blind.
 
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