Battery Drain Overnight
#1
Battery Drain Overnight Or Aleternator HELP HELP HELP
Im having a problem with my battery draining down overnight. It just started doing this recently. I noticed it only does it in cold weather, especially overnight. Could this just be a battery problem or something else? The charge remains low for about 2-3 minutes after the car is started and then the gauge rises to normal level after the 2-3min time period. The battery is about 1.5- 2yrs old and my alternator is maybe 6 months old. So wtf is up?
Last edited by TJeffer3; 11-27-2007 at 06:31 AM. Reason: ADD ON
#3
Hey thanks man. I got a new battery today, turns out it was leaking acid when they put it on the charger. So they replaced my battery for 23 bucks.
#5
Well problem is still not solved. I got in my car around 3 this morning the temp outside was around 35 degrees. I started my car and guess what same problem. So I know now that its not the battery. When I was at autozone yesterday getting my battery he noticed that my belt was a little loose. So I will be replacing the tensioner and I will also be getting my alternator checked. Its just funny how the volt meter runs low and then it picks up to normal range after the car is warmed up.
#6
sounds like a voltage regulator/alternator problem, you stated that the first battery leaked acid? could have been the alternator was over-charging the system and causing the acid to boil/ leak-out....
#7
So what do i need to do to fix the problem???
#8
a new OEM Ford alt......and stay far-far away from the ones at the parts store that offer a "lifetime warranty" as they are total junk
#9
and how much does the OEM alt Cost??
#10
hey randy how would i know for sure that its the alt? I had a guy check it and its showin to be good.
#12
2001 gt. An electrician here at work metered it. LOL. Probably not the best but cant get it checked til i get off.
#14
Well I replaced the OEM before with one from advanced auto. Its been about 5 months or so.
#15
well then thats where I would start as you prob got a "lifetime warranty" wth it and thats where they get you, wth that "lifetime warranty" bullshit
#16
Aight thanks randy. Guess I'll have to hold off on gettin my new steering tube bushings installed. So what is the best way to tell if the alt is the prob for sure?
#17
go-to a repair shop or a dealership for a second opinion, don't trust the parts stores and there "counter jockies" to diagnost electrical problems, esp on Ford's
#19
Well first of all, and I speak from expierence here. I am a tech at a honda dealer, but does several used cars, so in the long run, also a lot of fords.
I remember a couple years ago, we had a taurus in with similar problem. Took 3 aftermarket alternators before we got a working one. Stick with OEM.
Also, the guy who metered the alternator most likley did not do it correctly. You stated that after the vehicle is started, the charge level goes up to the correct level, which should be about 14 volts. Of course we have advance equipment at our shop, its critical that you measure alternator output when cranking, at idle, and at 3,000 rpms as they voltage output will vary. With our equipment, its graphs the voltage. We also test it with all accesories on also to compare to make sure it can handle an increase in load as well.
But it may not be your alternator. Many things could cause this. For all you know that gauge may not even be functioning correctly.
I remember a couple years ago, we had a taurus in with similar problem. Took 3 aftermarket alternators before we got a working one. Stick with OEM.
Also, the guy who metered the alternator most likley did not do it correctly. You stated that after the vehicle is started, the charge level goes up to the correct level, which should be about 14 volts. Of course we have advance equipment at our shop, its critical that you measure alternator output when cranking, at idle, and at 3,000 rpms as they voltage output will vary. With our equipment, its graphs the voltage. We also test it with all accesories on also to compare to make sure it can handle an increase in load as well.
But it may not be your alternator. Many things could cause this. For all you know that gauge may not even be functioning correctly.
Last edited by stevemainian; 11-28-2007 at 07:39 PM.
#21
Well first of all, and I speak from expierence here. I am a tech at a honda dealer, but does several used cars, so in the long run, also a lot of fords.
I remember a couple years ago, we had a taurus in with similar problem. Took 3 aftermarket alternators before we got a working one. Stick with OEM.
Also, the guy who metered the alternator most likley did not do it correctly. You stated that after the vehicle is started, the charge level goes up to the correct level, which should be about 14 volts. Of course we have advance equipment at our shop, its critical that you measure alternator output when cranking, at idle, and at 3,000 rpms as they voltage output will vary. With our equipment, its graphs the voltage. We also test it with all accesories on also to compare to make sure it can handle an increase in load as well.
But it may not be your alternator. Many things could cause this. For all you know that gauge may not even be functioning correctly.
I remember a couple years ago, we had a taurus in with similar problem. Took 3 aftermarket alternators before we got a working one. Stick with OEM.
Also, the guy who metered the alternator most likley did not do it correctly. You stated that after the vehicle is started, the charge level goes up to the correct level, which should be about 14 volts. Of course we have advance equipment at our shop, its critical that you measure alternator output when cranking, at idle, and at 3,000 rpms as they voltage output will vary. With our equipment, its graphs the voltage. We also test it with all accesories on also to compare to make sure it can handle an increase in load as well.
But it may not be your alternator. Many things could cause this. For all you know that gauge may not even be functioning correctly.
#22
So randy can you give me the total price for the new alt. My zip is 78602. Im trying to see if it will be cheaper to get it from you or the dealer here. So is the alt 199 plus the 75 for the core or is the 75 dollars all ready added in?
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