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  #1  
Old 04-19-2007 | 04:36 PM
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Well, I'm going to do a plug change on my 02. I was wondering what I need to look out for when doing this. I have the coil over plugs, and need to know what to expect my biggest problem will be. Like, how hard is it going to be to get the coils off of the plugs, and is there a danger in F*&*&*g up anything there. I know the hardest side will be the passengers side, so I'll start there first, but what other helpful hints can you guys & Galls give me here?
 
  #2  
Old 04-19-2007 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MOTT
Well, I'm going to do a plug change on my 02. I was wondering what I need to look out for when doing this. I have the coil over plugs, and need to know what to expect my biggest problem will be. Like, how hard is it going to be to get the coils off of the plugs, and is there a danger in F*&*&*g up anything there. I know the hardest side will be the passengers side, so I'll start there first, but what other helpful hints can you guys & Galls give me here?
Unbolt the coil packs carefully. Take out the old plugs get an extention or two. when putting in the new plugs I dont care what anyone says use antiseize. and torque to spec because the heads are aluminum. re bolt the coil packs not too tight and your good.
 
  #3  
Old 04-19-2007 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Icefreezen
Unbolt the coil packs carefully. Take out the old plugs get an extention or two. when putting in the new plugs I dont care what anyone says use antiseize. and torque to spec because the heads are aluminum. re bolt the coil packs not too tight and your good.
X2. You don't want to send a plug through your cyllinder head! sucks...
 
  #4  
Old 04-19-2007 | 05:12 PM
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Forgot to mention that I was going to replace the old plugs with Autolite 103's gapped at .054", is this going to be okay? Also, what is the torque spec. for the plugs?
 
  #5  
Old 04-19-2007 | 05:14 PM
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Be sure to spray the bolts holding the coil packs down with wd40 or the like they will stick. Otherwise its a easy 30-45min job yourself. Also i would use anti sease as steel plugs into an aluminum head is no good.
 
  #6  
Old 04-19-2007 | 05:19 PM
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I use a rubber hose to install the new plugs to avoid cross threading and its easier to install that way. Pay attention to the angle as the plugs dont got staight into the head but at an angle. Dont tighten the plugs like your holding the world together. If you have some compressd air, with the old plugs still in,spray some in the holes to get some of the dirt out to avoid getting any inside the cyn.
 
  #7  
Old 04-23-2007 | 05:39 PM
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Thanx to all who gave some good advice. Took me a little longer than you had estimated, but my back hurts so freeken bad I had to quit for the night after doing the passangers side. The other side went super fast by comparison. Thanx again for all the input. Now I just have to get my freeken back fixed. lol
Oh, the plugs I took out were so damn bad I can't beleive she ran at all. The electrodes were so small and they had a it point to them, sound normal for 48,000 miles?
 
  #8  
Old 04-24-2007 | 09:03 AM
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Ford has 50k plugs so you changed them just in time.
 
  #9  
Old 04-24-2007 | 04:02 PM
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after you do it once you will see it goes quick.
 
  #10  
Old 04-24-2007 | 04:54 PM
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the gap seems a bit wide to me... I always do 40-45 on 103's. Your call.
 
  #11  
Old 04-24-2007 | 05:39 PM
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Here ya go, http://www.dndgarage.net/sparkpluginstall.htm What you have to remove to get to the pass. or drivers side plugs will be different for every car. But for the pass. side, youll probably have to remove the inlet tube.
 
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