Interior Question
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 24
From: OxNaRd, Ca
Interior Question
Ok i got a question on an interior of a 1999 mustang v6, would it at all be possible to make space like a nos space or storage under the back seats and make the seat come up for like storage use, or is there vauluable parts to the car under the seat????
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
Originally Posted by nowon
i use the rear seat, i was thinking of like the seat being able to lift up and it down there, plus i got subs in the back
Done it. Simple.. sorta.
I had two hatch covers which locked closed, opened together or separately, and supported a nitrous bottle on top that hinged out of the way. For the seat back, I built an axle so you could flip the seat back over and access the weapons storage on one (I take my mustang hunting) and the bass amp on the other side.
It will rattle a little after a while but I got a lot of positive comments on the design.
I've changed my design to solid aluminum plates for weight since the nitrous bottle has to go in the trunk now.
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
I'll assume that the murdered words above spell (in their intended form) "you got any..." (see what happens when you miss home row by 1 key). In which case... I'm not totally sure. I'll have to look and see. I may have some of the old one but the new one spends 0 time in my car unless it's race day cuz it reflects LOTS of heat into the cabin and the bass tube rattles it. I'll see what I can find. If you want, I can just give you a parts list and a description and you can build your own. I still have the old one so I can get some pics of that outside the car for you if you like.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 24
From: OxNaRd, Ca
sure if you wont to get me the parts list and description how you built it, would be tight, sorry about that spelling im known to screw up on that now and then lol. if i get that description see if one of my friend could build it for me or a shop , thx bro
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
You could build it... easy. I did it with a screwdriver and a dremel (used the dremel as a saw... didn't have a saw at the time).
Basically, you'll take out the back seat and support frame, cut off the bottom of it (to use as a mounting base), get four hinges from OSH that are big enough to support your hatch cover material, remove the lock pins from the seat bottom and cut the hatch covers to fit your needs.
My covers were cut to the same shape as the seat but I backed the sides and back off an inch to allow it to open. I used a simple pair of L brackets and a hasp to connect them together and allow them to operate otherwise independantly. I mounted the bottom of the nitrous bottle on a piece of angle iron which was hinge mounted to the top of the driver side hatch cover and a couple toolbox style latches to secure the top of the bottle bracket to the other cover. THat allowed the bottle to tip up so I could open either side with the hatches de-coupled and both together if they were coupled. The same lock pins that held the seat down can be mounted on the covers and will hold it closed. There's a fair amount of metal work but almost all of it is on the cutting end. Everything that connects to another piece does so with either screws or pop-rivets.
I covered the hatch covers with automotive grade carpet (like you see on subwoofer boxes) to blend it all in and bango.
I'll try to snap some pics tonight. Mines been on the side of the house for a while so it's looking kinda rough but you'll get the idea.
Total cost was about 20 bucks.
Basically, you'll take out the back seat and support frame, cut off the bottom of it (to use as a mounting base), get four hinges from OSH that are big enough to support your hatch cover material, remove the lock pins from the seat bottom and cut the hatch covers to fit your needs.
My covers were cut to the same shape as the seat but I backed the sides and back off an inch to allow it to open. I used a simple pair of L brackets and a hasp to connect them together and allow them to operate otherwise independantly. I mounted the bottom of the nitrous bottle on a piece of angle iron which was hinge mounted to the top of the driver side hatch cover and a couple toolbox style latches to secure the top of the bottle bracket to the other cover. THat allowed the bottle to tip up so I could open either side with the hatches de-coupled and both together if they were coupled. The same lock pins that held the seat down can be mounted on the covers and will hold it closed. There's a fair amount of metal work but almost all of it is on the cutting end. Everything that connects to another piece does so with either screws or pop-rivets.
I covered the hatch covers with automotive grade carpet (like you see on subwoofer boxes) to blend it all in and bango.
I'll try to snap some pics tonight. Mines been on the side of the house for a while so it's looking kinda rough but you'll get the idea.
Total cost was about 20 bucks.
Cops Love Me!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,499
From: Winder, GA
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
You could build it... easy. I did it with a screwdriver and a dremel (used the dremel as a saw... didn't have a saw at the time).
Basically, you'll take out the back seat and support frame, cut off the bottom of it (to use as a mounting base), get four hinges from OSH that are big enough to support your hatch cover material, remove the lock pins from the seat bottom and cut the hatch covers to fit your needs.
My covers were cut to the same shape as the seat but I backed the sides and back off an inch to allow it to open. I used a simple pair of L brackets and a hasp to connect them together and allow them to operate otherwise independantly. I mounted the bottom of the nitrous bottle on a piece of angle iron which was hinge mounted to the top of the driver side hatch cover and a couple toolbox style latches to secure the top of the bottle bracket to the other cover. THat allowed the bottle to tip up so I could open either side with the hatches de-coupled and both together if they were coupled. The same lock pins that held the seat down can be mounted on the covers and will hold it closed. There's a fair amount of metal work but almost all of it is on the cutting end. Everything that connects to another piece does so with either screws or pop-rivets.
I covered the hatch covers with automotive grade carpet (like you see on subwoofer boxes) to blend it all in and bango.
I'll try to snap some pics tonight. Mines been on the side of the house for a while so it's looking kinda rough but you'll get the idea.
Total cost was about 20 bucks.
Basically, you'll take out the back seat and support frame, cut off the bottom of it (to use as a mounting base), get four hinges from OSH that are big enough to support your hatch cover material, remove the lock pins from the seat bottom and cut the hatch covers to fit your needs.
My covers were cut to the same shape as the seat but I backed the sides and back off an inch to allow it to open. I used a simple pair of L brackets and a hasp to connect them together and allow them to operate otherwise independantly. I mounted the bottom of the nitrous bottle on a piece of angle iron which was hinge mounted to the top of the driver side hatch cover and a couple toolbox style latches to secure the top of the bottle bracket to the other cover. THat allowed the bottle to tip up so I could open either side with the hatches de-coupled and both together if they were coupled. The same lock pins that held the seat down can be mounted on the covers and will hold it closed. There's a fair amount of metal work but almost all of it is on the cutting end. Everything that connects to another piece does so with either screws or pop-rivets.
I covered the hatch covers with automotive grade carpet (like you see on subwoofer boxes) to blend it all in and bango.
I'll try to snap some pics tonight. Mines been on the side of the house for a while so it's looking kinda rough but you'll get the idea.
Total cost was about 20 bucks.
Wowbagger hates me too!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9,865
From: Magrathea/California
really... I was being cheap at the time. Fabricating is easy for me.. hell it's just wood, plastic and metal. A visit to OSH usually ends up in me inventing something. Some day I'll revisit my tyrade about my PCV oil/air separator system design that steeda ripped off and made a crappy copy of.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diode Dynamics
Sponsors
5
Nov 11, 2020 12:04 PM