So as most of you know I love Steeda products a lot.. so what do you think of their Subframe connectors, UCA's, and LCA's? I hear lots of good things about Maximum Motorsports stuff, and as most of you know MT carries both So what are the differences? I've heard the Steeda UCA's and LCA's are very very strong even though they are aluminum, which is suppose to be good cuz they're lighter. Are the MM UCA's and LCA's made out of steel or what? Any advice on this subject would be must appreciated. Do you think there's anything else I could do to get better traction besides a new spline and differential with slicks lol

 

im running the steeda aluminum upper and lowers and love them. no wheel hop at all and you can tell that the wheels are being shoved into the pavement. mine are non adjustable, but you could do adjustable uppers for a little bit more bite by setting pinion angle.

 

I've heard all kinds of great stuff about Maximum Motorsports, but if you like Steeda and know the quality is up to your standards, stick with it.

 

I like steeda too, but you cant go wrong with either company really. I would get the lowers and subframes. Then get adjustable uppers and set them so the yoke is at -3* this is best for traction out of the hole.

 

I don't like steeda suspension normally but that's a personal preference. I just don't see the kind of engineering that I'd expect from such a critical component out of steeda that I see from MM.

For the ultimate in traction, there's nothing that comes close to a torque arm. Other than that, you're pretty well limited by the stock suspension's limitations.

Steeda's UCA's and LCA's are pretty comparable to MM in stock type setups. Whatever you do try and get LCA's with spherical bearings at the axle end and either Poly-Urethane or a spherical bearing at the chassis end. You'll get pretty ugly induced bind with Poly at both ends and it's recommended that you avoid that configuration on stock type suspensions. Induced bind causes all kinds of traction issues.

The MM LCA's you want are made from steel and are actually pretty light. I think they're a superior implementation than Steeda but I haven't run steeda arms so I can't speak from personal experience. Aluminum is better for full race than it is for street. Race tracks don't have potholes.

If I were you, I'd get MM and never even consider anything else. Feel free to choose steeda, many peeps are happy with their stuff... just not me.

 

It's all about weight transfer, driving and tires. My car ran 12.89 w/ 1.75 60' with stock upper and lower control arms and 15" BFG DR's. The best I could manage on 17" Nitto DR's was a 13.14 w/ 1.81 60. At the time the car was un-tuned and made 236rwhp / 275rwtq. I was running Fox 4cyl springs up front with Lakewood 90/10 struts and Fox V8 springs with stock shocks out back. DO NOT waste money on fancy suspension components if you're not going to put sticky tires on the car and learn to drive it like it's your last day on earth:bash:

P.S. csledd, this is not directed to you as a put-down. It's a decision one must make to have a drag type suspension , spend the time at the track to develope your drivign skills or settle for poor track times.



Jay

 

well I do have 17" DR's which I plan to stick with using the 17inchers until I build the rearend this fall/winter

 

I would just get UPR LCA's. Lots of fast cars run them. I really have a hard time seeing benefits of one control arm over another. I use them btw.

I also have Steeda subframes and would definately go that route again too.

 

did you weld your subframes?

 

if you get control arms do u need to have a built rear end

 

no you don't, but having a built rearend just means you can launch your car even harder to get the best 60 fts

 

Yup...mine are welded. CJ Pony installed them for me.

 

In truth most LCA's are about the same and performance between the various makers doesn't usually vary too wildly (except GMS... never buy GMS). MM and Griggs are a little higher standard than all the rest though. You can see it in the welds and the materials and they actually win races on their own designs.

If you don't weld in subframes you might as well not even have them.

A "built" rear end refers to things like upgraded differentials and axles, and usually includes about a 1000 dollar price tag on just parts. I'm going the less sensible route of a 9" conversion. That usually doubles the cost to start. Neither is required but it sure ain't gunna hurt.

 

I would go with MM lowers, FRPP uppers (this is what MM recommends), and MM full length weld in frame connectors. Also, those of you that had frame connectors welded in, how much did it cost you? Does the carpet need to be pulled? One performance shop is quoting me 4-6 hrs of labor at $82.50hr.

 

Just wondering if anybody read my post......throwing more money at the car isn't the answer:bash:




Jay

 

I had my steeda subframes welded and it took all but a .5 hour. I cant see it taking a one arm man more than an hour.

 

I was wondering the same thing about the carpet needing to be pulled.. any answers to this?

 

no it does not. You should not be in the same spot long enough when you weld it where it would be a problem. And if you get subframes you better weld them on as bolting them is does little too help.

 

definately welding.. i just didnt want to take all the carpet out

 

I'll be going full MM suspension. I'm not a big fan of steeda myself

 

subframes should cost from 100-300 installed including the connectors depending on which ones you get. My local fave shop (Apex) usually has griggs or MM subframes for 100-150 installed.

The subframes connect to the frame rails of the car. There is no carpet in contact with any metal that will be welded on normal under-car subframes. The only time you need to pull the carpet is when you do in-floor subframes.

JayC, I think everyone read your post... just noone seems to care. We're all peer pressuring csledd to mod his car more. He'll spend what time he can at the track just like the rest of us. Sometimes extensive practice is the least viable option.

 

So I'm definately spinning all through my first gear at the track.. so what should I pick up first to help with this? I'm thinking about just doing lowers and then uppers next month when i have some spare cash.. or what should i do first? lol

 

if you have tires do the lowers 1st. but i would recommend upper and lowers at the same time.

 

your car is lowered isn't it? first, put drag springs and shocks on it, loosen the front sway bar when you get to the track, come equipped with a drag oriented tire. Some MM LCA's with the weight jacking feature will help. You'll want to jack up the rear just a bit when you get to the track. Combined with the front sway bar being loosened you'll get much better weight transfer and that should help you hook.

What are your 60' times?

 

Hey R3dn3ck, I hope you know Csledd is a girl.

 

wow.. that's important or not. I don't care if csledd is a eunuch but thanks for the update. It mattered to csledd enough that SHE didn't mention it. I'll be sure to refer to her as a him every time now though just to **** you off.. heheheh

 

It doesnt **** me off at all. Just informing you, that's all. She's pretty cool about it.

 

Oh cool... he caught the sarcasm and took it properly. I must be getting better at it.

 

ehh.. I don't want to do drag springs lol

 

and it looks like she has nice tastes in cars too:shifty: