Driving a blown Mustang
#1
05-20-2006, 07:45 PM
Driving a blown Mustang
So, I have had my car back from near death for about two weeks. For those that don't know, I had a new motor and a Novi-2000 installed.
Driving a 380 rwhp, blown Mustang is worlds apart from driving a 250 rwhp n/a car that I can not even begin to explain it.
1 - It is just a whole lot more fun!
2 - The car sounds unbelievable!
3 - The car is A LOT harder to drive correctly. With the 42 lb injectors, you need to keep your foot into the gas when shifting or it bogs...in any gear. At first I thought the car was dicked, then I realized I can't drive like a puzzy. If you granny shift, the car bogs easily.
4 - Trying to maintain traction is a chore. Not just in 1st, but 2nd and even 3rd. Control arms are a must so you don't turn sideways. It is not as if it is not driveable, it is just that it requires more skill. Power shifting in the upper gears is a big thrill. Fun to see your passenger necks snap back zinging it into third or even 4th.
5 - With 4.10's (now you understand #4), the car accelerates from 90 - 110 faster then it does from 70 - 90. A blown car as it revs higher and higher, makes more power. Power does not drop off like it does on an n/a car. You know how when your stang was stock and you shifted at 6200 because power noses off? Well, with the blower, you could pull to 9,000 rpms if you wanted (sure the motor would explode) and it would just make more and more power. This means that you need to watch rpms closely as you drive.
6 - A boost guage is a must...glad I got one. Godo indicator as to what is going on.
7 - Depsite the added power, my water temps are a lot lower. I have a 180 degree therm and an inter-cooler. Cruising routinely keeps the car at 170.
8 - Every Mustang should have a blower.
Driving a 380 rwhp, blown Mustang is worlds apart from driving a 250 rwhp n/a car that I can not even begin to explain it.
1 - It is just a whole lot more fun!
2 - The car sounds unbelievable!
3 - The car is A LOT harder to drive correctly. With the 42 lb injectors, you need to keep your foot into the gas when shifting or it bogs...in any gear. At first I thought the car was dicked, then I realized I can't drive like a puzzy. If you granny shift, the car bogs easily.
4 - Trying to maintain traction is a chore. Not just in 1st, but 2nd and even 3rd. Control arms are a must so you don't turn sideways. It is not as if it is not driveable, it is just that it requires more skill. Power shifting in the upper gears is a big thrill. Fun to see your passenger necks snap back zinging it into third or even 4th.
5 - With 4.10's (now you understand #4), the car accelerates from 90 - 110 faster then it does from 70 - 90. A blown car as it revs higher and higher, makes more power. Power does not drop off like it does on an n/a car. You know how when your stang was stock and you shifted at 6200 because power noses off? Well, with the blower, you could pull to 9,000 rpms if you wanted (sure the motor would explode) and it would just make more and more power. This means that you need to watch rpms closely as you drive.
6 - A boost guage is a must...glad I got one. Godo indicator as to what is going on.
7 - Depsite the added power, my water temps are a lot lower. I have a 180 degree therm and an inter-cooler. Cruising routinely keeps the car at 170.
8 - Every Mustang should have a blower.
#2
05-20-2006, 07:59 PM
Resident Mental Patient
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls, NuYawk
Posts: 2,834
#4
05-20-2006, 08:03 PM
Resident Mental Patient
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls, NuYawk
Posts: 2,834
#5
05-20-2006, 08:04 PM
stop bragging!!! LOL.... i just wish i had a car, im glad your happy with your car, I know i will, i should be in the same boat as you as far as power goes, (thats if my block is ok) my car is going to be converted into a 3v. so with ported 3v heads cams stroker shortblock, i should have around 380-400 rwhp and who knows with nitorus, if i decide to keep it,
but anyway i wish mine would have a blower
but anyway i wish mine would have a blower
#7
05-20-2006, 08:09 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls, NuYawk
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#10
05-21-2006, 04:41 AM
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
So, I have had my car back from near death for about two weeks. For those that don't know, I had a new motor and a Novi-2000 installed.
Driving a 380 rwhp, blown Mustang is worlds apart from driving a 250 rwhp n/a car that I can not even begin to explain it.
1 - It is just a whole lot more fun!
2 - The car sounds unbelievable!
3 - The car is A LOT harder to drive correctly. With the 42 lb injectors, you need to keep your foot into the gas when shifting or it bogs...in any gear. At first I thought the car was dicked, then I realized I can't drive like a puzzy. If you granny shift, the car bogs easily.
4 - Trying to maintain traction is a chore. Not just in 1st, but 2nd and even 3rd. Control arms are a must so you don't turn sideways. It is not as if it is not driveable, it is just that it requires more skill. Power shifting in the upper gears is a big thrill. Fun to see your passenger necks snap back zinging it into third or even 4th.
5 - With 4.10's (now you understand #4), the car accelerates from 90 - 110 faster then it does from 70 - 90. A blown car as it revs higher and higher, makes more power. Power does not drop off like it does on an n/a car. You know how when your stang was stock and you shifted at 6200 because power noses off? Well, with the blower, you could pull to 9,000 rpms if you wanted (sure the motor would explode) and it would just make more and more power. This means that you need to watch rpms closely as you drive.
6 - A boost guage is a must...glad I got one. Godo indicator as to what is going on.
7 - Depsite the added power, my water temps are a lot lower. I have a 180 degree therm and an inter-cooler. Cruising routinely keeps the car at 170.
8 - Every Mustang should have a blower.
Driving a 380 rwhp, blown Mustang is worlds apart from driving a 250 rwhp n/a car that I can not even begin to explain it.
1 - It is just a whole lot more fun!
2 - The car sounds unbelievable!
3 - The car is A LOT harder to drive correctly. With the 42 lb injectors, you need to keep your foot into the gas when shifting or it bogs...in any gear. At first I thought the car was dicked, then I realized I can't drive like a puzzy. If you granny shift, the car bogs easily.
4 - Trying to maintain traction is a chore. Not just in 1st, but 2nd and even 3rd. Control arms are a must so you don't turn sideways. It is not as if it is not driveable, it is just that it requires more skill. Power shifting in the upper gears is a big thrill. Fun to see your passenger necks snap back zinging it into third or even 4th.
5 - With 4.10's (now you understand #4), the car accelerates from 90 - 110 faster then it does from 70 - 90. A blown car as it revs higher and higher, makes more power. Power does not drop off like it does on an n/a car. You know how when your stang was stock and you shifted at 6200 because power noses off? Well, with the blower, you could pull to 9,000 rpms if you wanted (sure the motor would explode) and it would just make more and more power. This means that you need to watch rpms closely as you drive.
6 - A boost guage is a must...glad I got one. Godo indicator as to what is going on.
7 - Depsite the added power, my water temps are a lot lower. I have a 180 degree therm and an inter-cooler. Cruising routinely keeps the car at 170.
8 - Every Mustang should have a blower.
boost is good
#11
05-21-2006, 09:13 AM
Hey Mt's #1... #3 concerns me. That's a tuning issue that shouldn't be an issue at all. I'd have that attended to. It's probably in need of a little tweaking on the base injector slope. I'd be calling your tuner to have him fix that up. Voice of experience.
#13
05-21-2006, 11:00 AM
Congratulations. It sounds like your having a blast with your stang!
I agree, ever stang should just come from the factory blown! ha ha....that would be outstanding. What I wouldn't do for another 75rwhp!
I agree, ever stang should just come from the factory blown! ha ha....that would be outstanding. What I wouldn't do for another 75rwhp!
#14
05-21-2006, 01:28 PM
Originally Posted by jjtgiants
Congratulations. It sounds like your having a blast with your stang!
I agree, ever stang should just come from the factory blown! ha ha....that would be outstanding. What I wouldn't do for another 75rwhp!
I agree, ever stang should just come from the factory blown! ha ha....that would be outstanding. What I wouldn't do for another 75rwhp!
#18
05-21-2006, 03:44 PM
Like someone else mentioned regarding #3; your tune is not correct if you are having that problem. People with 800RWHP cars have no issues and they can drive their car very easy with all that power and have no bogging issues.
Who tuned your car?
Who tuned your car?
#20
05-21-2006, 06:31 PM
Resident Mental Patient
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls, NuYawk
Posts: 2,834
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
Kauffmans. But, I think it is me. My friend drove it and he had no issues. He told me I was not giving it enough gas when shifting.
#22
05-21-2006, 06:41 PM
I will give Dave or Chris a call in the morning. I can always run the car down and have it checked out. I wanted to do that anyway before moving this summer.
I was test driving a 2006 Jetta 5 speed yesterday. I noticed that when I shifted the car, the rpms rev up about 300 rpms automatically when you put your foot on the clutch even though you are off the gas. I suspect this is to make shifting easier.
On my stang, the rpms drop like a rock as soon as your foot hits the clutch with no foot on the gas. If you feather the gas a tad, the rpms stay up and no bog.
It is almost like the traction control is comming on, but it is not because (I know that for sure).
I was test driving a 2006 Jetta 5 speed yesterday. I noticed that when I shifted the car, the rpms rev up about 300 rpms automatically when you put your foot on the clutch even though you are off the gas. I suspect this is to make shifting easier.
On my stang, the rpms drop like a rock as soon as your foot hits the clutch with no foot on the gas. If you feather the gas a tad, the rpms stay up and no bog.
It is almost like the traction control is comming on, but it is not because (I know that for sure).
#23
05-21-2006, 06:44 PM
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I will give Dave or Chris a call in the morning. I can always run the car down and have it checked out. I wanted to do that anyway before moving this summer.
I was test driving a 2006 Jetta 5 speed yesterday. I noticed that when I shifted the car, the rpms rev up about 300 rpms automatically when you put your foot on the clutch even though you are off the gas. I suspect this is to make shifting easier.
On my stang, the rpms drop like a rock as soon as your foot hits the clutch with no foot on the gas. If you feather the gas a tad, the rpms stay up and no bog.
It is almost like the traction control is comming on, but it is not because (I know that for sure).
I was test driving a 2006 Jetta 5 speed yesterday. I noticed that when I shifted the car, the rpms rev up about 300 rpms automatically when you put your foot on the clutch even though you are off the gas. I suspect this is to make shifting easier.
On my stang, the rpms drop like a rock as soon as your foot hits the clutch with no foot on the gas. If you feather the gas a tad, the rpms stay up and no bog.
It is almost like the traction control is comming on, but it is not because (I know that for sure).
#25
05-22-2006, 03:28 AM
Originally Posted by MT's#1Customer!
I don't have a fuel pressure regulator. Maybe that is my problem. Pressure drops like a **** when it bogs.
He had bad fuel pressure regulator...
the fuel injectors injected too much fuel...
****ed up two injectors...
After he fixxed it he needed new injectors, coil, distributer, and regulator...
look into it...
#27
05-22-2006, 05:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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#28
05-22-2006, 05:18 AM
at any rate he should not have that problem.
glad your having fun with your car, once you go FI you dont go back
glad your having fun with your car, once you go FI you dont go back
#30
05-23-2006, 07:50 PM
There is no fix for the problem. Seems that the issue is inherant to the design of the fuel system. You can't add a FPR with a 1999+. The issue might be able to be adjusted a tad with some tuning modifications, but that is about it. The key to correcting the problem is using the throttle correctly. You need to apply the throttle before lifting up on the clutch. Takes a bit getting used to, but it works.