subframe connectors
#5
You never realize how much your car flexes until you brace it. There are better braces out there like the MM or Kenny Browns but even the cheap ones make a huge difference on how the car launches and feels. It is really a great mod to tie it all together
#7
Kenny brown's full bracing system is nice but a little lightly built for my taste. MM full lengths are great, so are their regular length. Griggs are another great choice. Steeda's are just as nice but I don't like steeda so I say stay away from them (personal opinion).
Griggs and MM are the only ones I'd actually buy. If you want the next level, you can check out Hans Racecraft. Hans is a pal of mine and his subs are really quite killer. They're heavy and expensive but there's nothing more rigid until you go in-floor.
If money isn't an object, there's nothing as solid as a Griggs In-Floor set but they're very hard to install and so the expense is increased. The subs themselves are cheap.
MM or Griggs all the way.
here's a link to Hans' stuff. http://hansracecraft.com/product/ford/mustang-sfcc.htm
Your car will handle more predictably but just subs aren't a huge difference. they are immediately appearant though... you can feel the difference. bracing also helps keep the squeaks and rattles from popping up since the chassis is much more rigid.
Griggs and MM are the only ones I'd actually buy. If you want the next level, you can check out Hans Racecraft. Hans is a pal of mine and his subs are really quite killer. They're heavy and expensive but there's nothing more rigid until you go in-floor.
If money isn't an object, there's nothing as solid as a Griggs In-Floor set but they're very hard to install and so the expense is increased. The subs themselves are cheap.
MM or Griggs all the way.
here's a link to Hans' stuff. http://hansracecraft.com/product/ford/mustang-sfcc.htm
Your car will handle more predictably but just subs aren't a huge difference. they are immediately appearant though... you can feel the difference. bracing also helps keep the squeaks and rattles from popping up since the chassis is much more rigid.
#8
maximum motorsports full lengths here, with upr torque box reinforcements...
make sure you have them welded in, same thing with the strut tower brace, otherwise they're not worth doing. you probably wont feel a huge life changing difference with the strut tower brace. the rear sway bar will do more for cornering if thats what you're looking for.
make sure you have them welded in, same thing with the strut tower brace, otherwise they're not worth doing. you probably wont feel a huge life changing difference with the strut tower brace. the rear sway bar will do more for cornering if thats what you're looking for.
#11
Don't weld on Strut Tower Braces. Doesn't really help. Don't even need one with a MM k-member and k-member brace.
You'll feel the most diff from the subs. The front STB is a meh... solution. I can feel it but I can drive that hard thanks to a properly built coil-over. With conventional springs... don't expect much. I can say that in a head on collision my Steeda STB on my 01' lessened some pretty serious front end collapse that would have been really bad if it didn't stop. The force bent my STB a lot but kept the strut towers where they were so I could open my door when I got out.
The rear STB is best for Coil-over cars. It doesn't do a damn thing for stock type spring cars since the spring loads are placed elsewhere. I put one on when I had an IRS in the car, and it helped a bit with keeping the rear wheels settled. Other than taht... don't bother.
You'll feel the most diff from the subs. The front STB is a meh... solution. I can feel it but I can drive that hard thanks to a properly built coil-over. With conventional springs... don't expect much. I can say that in a head on collision my Steeda STB on my 01' lessened some pretty serious front end collapse that would have been really bad if it didn't stop. The force bent my STB a lot but kept the strut towers where they were so I could open my door when I got out.
The rear STB is best for Coil-over cars. It doesn't do a damn thing for stock type spring cars since the spring loads are placed elsewhere. I put one on when I had an IRS in the car, and it helped a bit with keeping the rear wheels settled. Other than taht... don't bother.
#12
I went with the Steedas with a torque box reinforcement and I noticed a big difference.
Before the SFC's it seemed the car would twist going over bumps, potholes, or uneven surfaces instead of the suspension doing its job. Now it feels like the car is stiff and the suspension is dealing with the road instead of the chassis.
It was a ride in an '05 convertible that showed me how flexible my car really was. Not any more though.
Before the SFC's it seemed the car would twist going over bumps, potholes, or uneven surfaces instead of the suspension doing its job. Now it feels like the car is stiff and the suspension is dealing with the road instead of the chassis.
It was a ride in an '05 convertible that showed me how flexible my car really was. Not any more though.
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04, 2003, brown, conectors, connectors, convertible, fourms, griggs, kenny, largest, maximum, mm, motorsports, mustang, subframe