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342 Central Coast Mustang w/ mods

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  #1  
Old 03-27-2006 | 04:52 PM
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Cool 342 Central Coast Mustang w/ mods

342 with AFR185s, typhoon intake, 30#'s, 70mm sn95 style TB, bbk shorties, bassani catted X, magnaflow catback, 77mm pro-m, trick flow stage 2 cam, TKO500, 3.73s
the tune was with a completely different exhaust, a 76mm C&L MAF, and an FRPP ecam ... so i will get more power when i do the following:
75mm TB and elbow (on the way)
tmoss ported and gasket matched lower manifold
retune by Horsepower by Hermann, Crofton, MD

this is what I got about 2 weeks ago on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno, and he showed me the correction factor was 1.000, so the numbers are as accurate at possible ...
 
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2006 | 07:47 PM
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Geez talk about a nice torque line. Nice numbers.
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-2006 | 08:04 PM
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well thank you! they didnt get an AFR reading, so I dont know if I am running out of fuel up top, or if its just from the tune being meant for the ecam. i guess ill find out after i get it tuned again, cuse theyll eb able to tell me if its running out or not, then ill get to spend a few hundred to get a MAF recal, or a new one, and bigger injectors (36 or 42) ... yay. but summit racing tech ppl have told me a few times that the injectors should hold up just fine
 
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Old 10-08-2006 | 09:00 AM
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does anyone see a problem with where the power i dying on this curve? because i do... there is no reason that the hp should be leveling out at 4800 RPMs. since this dyno, i opened the upper manifold to accept a 75mm TB, had the lower ported by tmoss, added a Wideband (so i know im not runnin out of fuel), and am using twEECer instead of SCT (running a prof tune when i had the ecam). i think i am having valve float issues because the company put on 1.7s and told me they put 1.6s, so i have a TFS2 cam lifting .576/.598 instead of .542/.563 ... and the AFRs can only handle .550/.550. Does anyone else think i am having this issue? I can get .635" springs to handle the lift that will bolt on without any machine work to the heads. does anyone else think that valve float is the issue? or would it be something else?
 
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Old 11-08-2006 | 08:03 PM
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anybody?
 
  #6  
Old 11-15-2006 | 04:09 PM
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without knowing what springs you have on there it's impossible to say for sure but that's mighty tall lift no matter what. Your power curve runs flat right at 4800 which is telling me that you have an airflow issue probably in the intake manifold. With that much cam you should see the power continuing to climb well above 4800rpm.

I'm going to go with float or bounce as a potential issue as well as suggesting you might want to look at the intake as a point of restriction. If the intake weren't some sort of restriction (and the valves are being moved without bounce or float) then your power curve should go up from 4800 to 5400 or so... in theory.
 
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Old 11-15-2006 | 04:59 PM
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thats what i thought. i have the original AFR springs (.550 max), and i am lifting .576/.598, and i have a typhoon intake with the lower "ported" by tmoss. its more gasket matched and cleaned up ... i dunno how i pulled those numbers with the restrictions i am having honestly... i think i need a better intake ... but i heard the RPM2 doesnt line up on the AFR 185s correctly (?).

I know i need to get bigger valve springs, and i can get them ... i just dont trust myself to do it lol
 
  #8  
Old 11-15-2006 | 05:03 PM
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springs aren't hard.. just time consuming with all the cranking over the engine so you don't drop valves in. Start with getting the right rockers on there, then you can go from there. THat's at least a fairly quick job and not too expensive. Once you're back to 1.6's then another dyno run will tell us if we've fixed the float or just made the intake restriction more obvious. Have you considered a trick flow or BBK intake?
 
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Old 11-15-2006 | 07:33 PM
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AFR said it was the valve springs, and the manifold maybe after that, but DEFINITELY the springs and that i am DEFINITELY experiencing valve float. i would like to keep the 1.7s, to get that much more power, so i guess now all i gotta do is buy or rent the tool that goes in the spark plug hole and keeps the valves closed, i think ive seen it on LS1 forums. that would let me do it with the heads still on the car i am unsure about the whole measuring everything with a dial caliper or height mike or whatever once they are on ... since i have never done it before. im debating just having a shop do it ... but thats hundreds of dollars i did not intend on spending... hmmm
 
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