So my current 60 ft time with MT Drag radials was a 1.80 exactly....how can i lower my 60 ft time? I feel like ive done a lot of work suspension wise and i feel like 1.80 is a lil shitty....now given this was my first time using dr's and it scared the **** outta me to b honest. I loved it though....it's the first time in a longwhile my car actually got my adrenaline going! I ended up running pretty shitty times still and am still very unhappy. 13.65 at my lowest trap speed ever 99.8 miles per hour!!!! I'm very confused....before the dr's i ran like a 14 or 14.1 but pulled high trap speeds like between 105-111 so wth is going on now and again why is my pretty decently modified Bullitt still running stock GT times? Someone give me a clue to this madness please. Given i love the dr's and i knocked like .4 or .5 off my total time with them. I can't wait to go back to the track with the new exhaust setup i ordered and the new line lock installed. Maybe i'll have better luck then...or not. I just ordered a week ago:
BBK ceramic lt's, mac offroad prochamber and a complete maganflow catback. Hopefully i'll pick up a lil huh?

 

How do you launch the car, rpms, slip it out, drop it etc..?

Do you power shift? And i dont see how a na 2v would trap over 105-106 with stock heads cams.

 

.....ditch the "steeda sport" springs, there prob not allowing enough weight transferr to be of any help...are you still running a front sway bar? whats the rear tire size, sidewall on those M/T's?

 

coil over setup for drag racing, ditch the sway bar, launch from higher revs. You're not doing bad with a 1.8 short time. That's hella good for a car on sport springs.

 

I launch at 5500 rpms and i dump the damn clutch completely cuz it launches like a friggin rocket i'm talkin no tire spin whatsoever. I dnt really care if you believe my previous track times i'm not here to boast fake times i'm askin for help so why would i lie? Whatever anyways the drs are 275 width and i wanna say 28" tall on a 15" prostar, but i'm not sure all i know is they barely fit on the car. I don't feel like i need to slip the clutch or anything conservative like that because the tires aren't spinning at all. Whatever though please keep the help coming. thanx!

 

BTW if i ditch the swaybar won't the car handle like **** on the street...btw i live in the serious hill country where you need a car that can turn. So if ima ditch the steeda springs which ones should i get. I have an airbag kit in the steeda springs currently and btw i dropped .2 off my time with that lil $75 part. Something u guys might wanna invest in.

 

if you're going to use a 28" tall tire you should switch to 4.30 gears. If you can, swap out the 28" tires for a set of 26" tall tires. I remember when MM&FF was testing the GT500 they found the 28" tall tires added to their ET's.

If you have adjustable upper arms, you'll want to take a pinion angle measurement and then adjust in very small increments to get it to the sweet spot for your track. Usually lengthening the arm by a turn or 2 is sufficient to make a noticeable change on your launch. Adjust once, run twice. Rinse, repeat. You're looking to nose down the pinion a hair at rest so that after you dump the clutch and the diff torques upwards it ends up flat and level.

 

one thing you should know, or maybe you-do?...it is very hard to make a "handling car" get down the 1/4 mile and vice-versa.....so your gonna' have to make some sacrifices..... do you want the car to hook-up and run straight down the track or be able to slam it into corners at 3G's?....you can't have both

 

I could of sworn I told you awhile ago that 28" tires are too tall. Yep, I did, https://mustangboards.com/drag-racin...aunch-rpm.html

 

I don't see how they're too tall they fit the wheels and they fit on the car easily. And they don't hit the inside of the fender well thanks to the drag bag. So how are they too big??????

 

They are slowing you down, rotational mass. Why do you think people buy 15" wheels for drag racing instead of using 17" or 18"? Its not just because theres a weight difference.

 

bingo... aside from that with a 28" tire you're effectively dropping your gearing and losing effective torque. 28" tire is 28x3.1416 in circumference, a 26" tall tire is 26x3.1416 in circumference. For each 4.1 turns of your driveshaft your car has to move ~87.8" with a 28" tire, but with a 26" tire you only have to move the car 81.6". Using the same energy to do less work equals that work being done in less time.

Geez... cmon guys. This isn't hard to comprehend.

 

You shouldn't use a 28" tire unless you're running out of gear in 4th because it will slow you down. 26" tires are good for 110-112mph @ 6,000 rpms. The reason your car ran a 99 miles per hour is because of the 28" tire and because it hooked. Before you were probably (definitely) spinning and that's why your miles per hour was so high. 105-106 miles per hour is the norm for full bolt ons and 4.10's at around a 13.0 . A 26" tire will get you into the 1.7x 60'. The steeda sport springs aren't the problem. People have cut 1.6's and 1.7's on them. For the strip they are much better than Eibachs or H&R's because they have weight transfer similar to stock.