Havent been active lately but thought id give an update on my slowmatic...anyways since the last thread i made about my chitty 100shot passes,lol,ive added a 3800 stall to my car...well went out and tried it out at the track of course, now i know i wasnt gonna get the best results the first time out but i was really shocked, not at my ET's but my trap speed...prior to the stall my best was a 13.6(cold weather) and most recently a 13.8(high 90 degree weather)...well first time out on the torque converter i ran a 13.8@95..it felt great outta the hole and actually throughout the whole run it felt much quicker but at 95mph...anyways, i let the car cool down and ran it again this time the result was a 13.7@96,ok,little better...cool down yet again and run again...same result 13.7@96....kinda dissapointed i went and lined up again(hotlapped it) and sprayed it, 75shot(wanted to get a feel of the torque converter) and hit a 12.9@107...so the nitrous runs stayed pretty much the same, i was also on an almost empty bottel aswell....since then i finally added my longtubes, should i go and run again or should i get me a tune for all my mods on the dyno? i think thats my problem, either i need a tune or the freaking high 90,low 100 degree weather is killing me, aswell as the humidity...here are my numbers from that night, including my previous 13.8 without the stall...

Run before torque converter went on...

R/T - .157
I1 - 1.989
I2 - 5.759
I3 - 8.870

E.T. - 13.861
MPH - 99.174

Converter Runs.

1st Run(flashed it from idle)
R/T - .207
I1 - 1.856
I2 - 5.606
I3 - 8.744
MPH(I3) - 77.810

E.T. - 13.804
MPH - 95.688

2nd Run(stalled at 15-1600 then flashed it)
R/T - .384
I1 - 1.843
I2 - 5.573
I3 - 8.684
MPH(I3) - 78.563

E.T. - 13.700
MPH - 96.552

3rd Run(stalled at 18-2000 and flashed it)
R/T - .073
I1 - 1.869
I2 - 5.613
I3 - 8.741
MPH(I3) - 78.501

E.T. - 13.773
MPH - 96.203

and my nitrous run(stayed the same)(running low on nitrous also)
R/T - .086
I1 - 1.760
I2 - 5.309
I3 - 8.267
MPH(i3) - 83.690

E.T. - 12.932
MPH - 107.709

 

well hopefully Monday i should be getting my car dyno tuned.

 

Sounds like some simple road tuning with your tranny to find good shift points etc.. will have you going strong in no time.

 

so what other bolt-ons do you have? I just got a 3800 stall converter myself. Have you launched over 2500 yet?

 

bolt-ons
sct x-cal2
cold air intake
accufab plenum & 70mm Throttle body
steeda underdrive pullies
longtube headers
off-road prochamber
borla catback
4.10's
3800 stall
and nitrous

i havent ran it since the addition of the longtubes, and no havent launched over 2500...the track i run at isnt prepped very well so stalling that high would probably be impossible but i wouldnt know since i havent tried it, highest ive gone is 2000 but have been reading that the best way to launch is flashing it from idle.

 

hopefully, i wanna be able to run low 13's

 

im going for low 13's high 12's...i have a VT stage 2 cam and same mods as you minus the nitrous...im hoping to be able to launch from at least 2500-3000.

 

thats cool, hopefully thats the next mod for me, VT Stage 2 Cams, just gotta find someone to isntall em, good luck on your quest for 12's!

 

hey shapeshifter...what tires are you using? Did you get your car tuned yet?

 

nah tune hasnt happened,seems things always get in the way...anyways im using 275/50 M/T Drag Radials on 15x8 Welds.

 

Could you post a pic up of your rims on the car please...im getting some 15" drag rim/tires for the strip. Put it in as an attachment please, im in iraq and they have a gay filter on in text pictures.

 

i dunno how to attach the photo, i only know how to paste the photobucket [IMG] tags...maybe someone could help me out, not unless you can tell me how to do it.

 

actually i found a way around the filter...lol...i love being "data" go ahead and throw it in the text and ill be able to see it.

 

coolness, here ya go...i actually just got rid of these, i have some Telstars on order.

 

TTT...finally got it dynotuned last month, 255rwhp/280rwtq was the outcome...no nitrous numbers, didnt have any nitrous in the bottle neither did the shop...

mods:
cai
tb+plenum
steeda u/d pulleys
full exhaust
4.10's
3800 stall

and ran it at the track aswell with great results,

R/T: .118
I1 - 1.754
I2 - 5.328
I3 - 8.338
miles per hour(I3) - 79.999
E.T. - 13.134 @ 104.785

other 2 runs were 13.3(first run) and 13.2(final run),car was 60ft'ing 1.7x all nite long....now i just need to see if the 75shot ET goes any lower...prev.best on 75shot 12.47....tho now i love running N/A, feels good to know i have a low 13sec car and a faster one on juice....the $400 dynotune was worth it, next up is suspension and weight reduction.

 

damn those are pretty good numbers. The slicks helped out alot. How much weight are you saving by running the slicks?

 

thanks, dont know exactly how much weight the welds shed off but im pretty sure its a good amount, btw im running drag radials...been running em for 1.5yr

 

FWIW... any time you put longtubes in you should get an update to tune. The o2 delay setting needs to be updated so your ECU can plot the AF properly in normal part throttle driving. It's not a engine blowing kind of need but it's the smart thing to do.

 

When did you run the 12.47? Before what? I see a 12.50 now on the 75 shot. Make sure you get a nitrous tune. The N/A tune has to much timing for the nitrous.

 

i ran the 12.47 a few months back,i didnt have headers, stall or dyno tune...i was running an xcal2 with a canned tune,...but havent sprayed it since ive been dyno tuned....i dont remove timing for the 75shot, only for the 100shot.

 

bump, quick question to whoever can give me some insight....my tuner/friend left my rev limiter on my stang at 6250rpm....ive asked him several times to bump it up to 6500rpm, he says it not necessary, now my question is, is the lower set rev limiter costing me power or not? so far i have run a best of a 13.04 @ 104 w/1.71 60'ft....but i am sort of scared of spraying nitrous with the limiter at 6250, i have a fear it'll hit the limiter on spray...opinions...?

 

6250 is plenty on the stock valvetrain and intake. there's no worth to the extra 250 rpm. Use a window switch to shut down the nitrous just before your shift light shines.

 

what are your rpms at the end of the 1/4 N/A? I personally wouldn't rev the car past 6,000. If you think you are going to be at 6500 rpms on nitrous, then you need to change gears. Get a window switch and set it to spray from 3500 - 5800.

 

i believe im at 5100rpm at the end of the 1/4...but yea i guess i can get a window switch...i already had one but sold it, lol....thanks guys!

 

I have one... Autometer RPM activated model #19216 with a 5000rpm pill. It's a normally open circuit so you can use it to redirect the current from the nitrous system to ground with a relay. Makes for a nice simple install and you only have to deal with 1 pill.

Make me an offer... it's new with package.

 

can you send me a PM or post specific details oh how to install that and could i possibly get another pill to spray to like 5800rpm...? link would be great too....honestly im also scarred to spray off the line,lol.

 

btw, when i got my nitrous kit install, the installer said he didnt know how to install my MSD Digital window switch...so i sold it...

 

never go back to that installer. There's instructions usually in the box.

it's pretty easy, the pills can be purchased from autometer or any autometer retailer. they're just little plug in dealies. Should cost you a dollar to 10 dollars for the pills of your preference.

To install it you'd take a regular normally open relay, wire the open circuit side to your nitrous system in series with the rest of the power flow before the solenoids, wire the closed circuit side to ground. Take the tach signal from your (should be) existing tach driver or get a tach driver and a tach and shift light.

You could also use it with a micro switch on your shifter (gunna be some custom riggin there) so that it's only there for the launch and first gear, that way while you're in first gear and all circuits are closed the switch will watch for 5000rpm and shut down the nitrous, as soon as you shift to 2nd gear your nitrous can run off a regular 2 pill (mine is a single pill) window switch. It's all a matter of setting up a few relays. Any idiot stereo installer (no offense to stereo guys, you're all super) can set up a wiring schematic to do it.

A regular window switch should be on your list eventually as well....or another digital controller. Only thing I don't like about digital controllers is if they are used as a progressive and pulse the solenoids... that beats the **** out of the seats.

 

Then you shouldn't have a problem. The 75 shot shouldn't put you past 6,000 rpms, but definitely get a window switch.

 

kewl, thanks guys...r3d, how much you looking to get for that window switch...only thing is i dont have paypal anymore...