Need help with caster/camber plates
#1
Need help with caster/camber plates
Trying to find some that look good, are not expensive and get the job done. J&M ones are out of the question after have their stainless brake lines and subframe connectors on my car. I don't want anything to do with any of their other products. I have been looking at the UPR billet 3 bolt ones.
Car is of course a street car that does mostly drag racing.
Car is of course a street car that does mostly drag racing.
#3
http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...tes-94-04.html
$188 to your door with the discount code. Not much more than the UPR ones after shipping adds in.
$188 to your door with the discount code. Not much more than the UPR ones after shipping adds in.
#5
I saw a thread where the UPR piece failed and the strut went through the hood. I would go MM. I went stangsuspension and would suggest them but they are closed now, so MM seems the logical choice left.
#7
I really dislike the looks of the MM setup. Sounds stupid to care and from me of all people, but I like my engine bay to look nice.
#9
When your c/c plates are clattering due to a crap *** bearing, bending due to poor design, unable to get a good alignment because you cant adjust caster any more than stock, you will care less about what it looks like. In my opinion the MM plates look better than those UPR shark plates due to the fact that they are a no funny business part that is made to withstand anything you want to throw at it. That UPR plate is designed to look "good" and hopefully work. There have been quite a few complaints about the UPR plates. If it wern't a function over looks part I wouldn't care, but the caster camber plate has to work before it looks good.
#10
I will look for it, I really thought it was UPR but maybe it wasn't. I think I saw it on SVTP but they have 'database' error right now. But when it's back up I will browse around and see if I find it again.
#11
Do you prefer the chrome ones? I got mine for $235 from MPE Racing on eBay.
#12
Get the MM's. You don't EVER use a 3 bolt on a street car that's 94+ and you really want something you won't have to replace in a couple years so get the MM's. Please... don't make me say mean **** to you.
#14
Having bought the stang suspension 4 bolt plates, in their instructions they even say that they can be installed in 3 bolt or 4 bolt option. There is really no benefit that i see, supposedly in heavy duty racing more stress is put on the strut tower and that 4th bolt adds to the rigidity giving it more strength, maybe their is more to it than that, but that is all I have been able to find as a reason for the 4th bolt option.
#17
I am more concerned with the quality of the bearing in the plate then I am if its 3 or 4 bolt. That's why I don't get why some people are very anti 3 bolt. My car is not a road racer or autox car so I really don't care if I get 3 or 4 bolt. I found a solid deal on the UPR billet shark ones. I might be able to get their CC plate and their double adjustable upper control arms for a super deal from a local dealer. Even though I don't have the money for both I might have to find a way to get those.
I have yet to find a decent deal on the chrome MM ones. So many choices out there, does any one know of some other CC setups I am missing? Steeda is stupid expensive too so forget them.
I have yet to find a decent deal on the chrome MM ones. So many choices out there, does any one know of some other CC setups I am missing? Steeda is stupid expensive too so forget them.
#18
Here's my opinion. If you do not plan on going with coil over’s then a 3 bolt caster camber plate will work just fine. One benefit with going 4 bolt CC plates is you can swap the camber plate to either side to get more negative camber or more positive camber. Depending on what you need. You can't do that with a 3 bolt plate. As far as what brand to go with, I would go with any one that offers a warranty on bearing failure. I know MM offers that on their CC plates but I don't know if UPR does. If they do and the price fits your budget I say get them.
#19
on fox bodies the strut is centered between the 3 bolts which shares the load very effectively. On SN95 cars that's not the case and you end up with a big bending load on the plate as it tries to shear off 2 of the bolts holding it down. Get 4 bolt plates for SN95's. MM makes the best.
#20
on fox bodies the strut is centered between the 3 bolts which shares the load very effectively. On SN95 cars that's not the case and you end up with a big bending load on the plate as it tries to shear off 2 of the bolts holding it down. Get 4 bolt plates for SN95's. MM makes the best.
For the most part, 3 bolt plates are fine, as the strut is captured within the triangle (another reason why SN95 cars have limited caster adjustment). However, NEVER INSTALL 4 BOLT PLATES W/ 3 BOLTS. Though the manufacturer may say it's fine, the adjustability one usually gets w/ 4 bolt plates will put the strut outside the triangle formed by the 3 bolts.
Remember, form ALWAYS follows function. This isn't art, this is your car.
#22
#23
#25
Seriously? Maybe i'm a sucker for black and chrome, oh well
#28
I have the Steeda plates and am very happy with fit,finish, and operation. They are four bolt plates and come with guide to make drilling the fourth hole easy. The UPR plates are ****. Had a set for couple of months and looked like **** and the RH plate always made a noise.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PistolWhip
The Reference Section
3
04-18-2006 08:51 PM