I'm going with the 10" L7 from Kicker. Its a dual voice coil so its a 4ohm sub. When buying an amp i should only pay attention to the 4 ohm output right? I also have to make sure the box its in is rated at 4 ohms right? So just keep everything at 4 ohms and im good?

 

here is the link to the sub http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-08TS10L74...3%3A1|294%3A50

i know i can get the sub cheaper than whats advertised there, it was just the first one that showed up. Here is the link to the amp i have in mind. http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-08ZX750-1...Car_Amplifiers So if i run that amp at 4 ohms it will never blow the sub cause of the rms and max being below that of the sub's capacities right?

 

There there is this listing which states the exact same sub and type of enclosure is a 2 ohm setup. So does that mean i go with the ohm rating on the amps for this sub setup? http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-08TS10L72...3%3A1|294%3A50

 

you would get a 2 ohm load out of the sub if you wire it in parallel and if you wire it in series you will be at 4 ohms, that is because parallel will divide the ohm's in half,, the sub will most likely function at both levels not a problem, but i would prefer to run one in a 2 ohm load form, simple because that is less resistance from the sub, it will make a lot better power output

 

well i'm running just the one sub. So wiring in 'parallel' isnt a possible scenario right? Running at a 2 ohm will be more efficient than 4? So i should go with a sub rated at 2 ohms and go by the watt rating of the amp for the 2 ohm rms and just let the installer know i went the 2 ohm route and ill be fine then?

 

with dual voice coils you will have two pos and neg. terminals off the sub, so for parallel you would connect both of the negs together and both of the positives together.

and the wiring for 2 or 4 ohms is no different, heck you can change the sub from 2 to 4 ohms on the same amp and it not change anything except for the wattage it gets. its all about the impedance going to the sub (or resistance)

but i would say a 2 ohm load would be more efficient simply because you are running less resistance to the sub, thats why more power...

but the amp won't have to be configed diff for a 4 ohm or a 2 ohm sub... just make sure you get an amp that is stable at the one you want to run

 

it has a dual voice coil with 4 ohms per coil, so a two ohm load in parallel will be the best set up for it. it also recommends 600w rms, or 300w per voice coil, but honestly you don't really have to run that high, you can easily get this sub to hit with a 450w rms+ amp...

 

ok thanks. I'm going with the L7 10" kicker at a 2 ohm setup. Then ill keep the rms under 500 (sub holds 600rms) so im not risking blowing it. Thanks again for the help.

 

not a problem..


oh and the RMS is what the sub company would like the sub to stay at on wattage, they would prefer to see the sub run from 600-1000 the 1200 max is more just a limit that you should not push all the time, its more for burps for comp and stuff...


but running below rms is not a problem at all...

 

what kind of amp are you going to be running? that is how you decide if you want a 2 ohm load which is wiring it parallel, but in series wiring it is not the same you have to wire one positive terminal to one negative terminal but that gives you an 8 ohm load not a 4 ohm load, if you want a 4 ohm load you only wire one voice coil but then you can only put half the power to that sub, are you sure its the dual 4 ohm version, b/c that sub also comes in a dual 2 ohm version

 

well i bought a sub/box combo wired at 2 ohm, bought a amp with 400rms at 2 ohm load...and the head unit. So i think im on the right track. The sub is 600rms max, and im driving it at like 66% with the 400rms, and the general rule is stay under 85%.

 

a single dvc 4ohm sub can only be wired at 2ohm or 8ohm single dvc 2ohm can only be wired at 1ohm or 4ohm only way to get a dvc back to the origional number is to add another sub and the higher the ohm the less work on the amp the lower the ohm the more work on the amp and most amps unless they are mono amps dislike 1ohm

 

or you can just wire up one of the voice coils and have the 4 ohm load just cant put as much power on it that way, but if you do did blow it you would still have another voice coil still good ha

 

....... your supposed to use both voice coils and most subs blow apart not a coil i would shy away from giving advice that can be taken literally by people if you are joking and advice in general if you are not sure what you are talking about

 

run leads from pos to pos and neg to neg then connect from there, I had my amp bridged with 2 12's and i did that and it was ungodly bass, but it stalled my car out due to voltage drops. I have a Cadence a7+HC amp with Bass Mekanik speakers, and it was too much. But one l7 at 2ohm will be great!

 

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp a good site for newbs to car audio

 

well i know what im talking about not exactly new to this, i did not say running one voice coil is the best way to do it but it is a way to do it and works just fine with the right amt of power

 

the point of dual voice coil subs is to have many wiring options with a dual 4 you can run 2,4, or 8 ohm loads but running on one voice coil for the 4 ohm load you can only put about half the amt of power

 

which u can run speakers off of one coil but its pointless, i did it not knowing long ago, and guys at a speaker shop did a series and i didnt notice much loading difference, but alot of power difference.

 

Think of a 2ohm load as soft drink straw and a 4 ohm load as a coffee straw. With the the soft drink straw you can drink at a faster rate. A 2 ohm amp can send more power to the 2 ohm driver than at 4 ohm.

The proper way to get the most out of a DVC driver is to get the ohms down to the lowest level where the amp is stable. Most amps are stable at 4 and not all at 2,1. A 100 watt amp at 4 ohms produces 200 watts at 2 ohms and 400watts at 1 ohm typically if the amp is able to go down to a 2 ohm or 1 ohm load. You will have to check the amps specs before you buy.

As far as driver selection you need to match the lowest ohm of the amp with the driver or drivers. You also have to see how many channels are you going to use of the amp. If using a 2 ch amp that is 2 ohm stable you want to buy two 2 ohm drivers or two 4 ohm DVC drivers. The reason for using ex:200watt per voice coil 4 ohm DVC is that you need to connect it in parrallel + to + and - to - , to bring down the ohms to 2 ohms therefore you have 400 watts. If you use a 200 watt per coil 2 ohm DVC driver and only connnect one voice coil you would have half the power which is 200 watts and if you connect a 2 ohm DVC in parrallel it will get you 400 watts but at 1 ohm which your amp may not be stable at.

I can rant on but it is not recommended to use only one coil as it may get damaged. There are many ways to wire Drivers. What the person who is advising you needs to know is how much rms power you want, how many drivers you want and how many channels you want to have.

 

well there are cases where you dont need to go to the lowest ohm load possible and i have never had any problems running one voice coil on a dvc, i have actually used the second oice coil for a system tuning device, by adding a fixed or adjustable resistor, you can actually adjust the electrical Q of the woofer which will affect the total Q of the system, i have also built RLC networks in equal and opposite resonant peaks (equal and opposite peak of the woofer in enclosure) for tuning out peaks in enclosures that are too big... a "passive, fixed, single band, parametric EQ" And i still dont see how people thing running on one coil will damage the sub with properly adjusted system power, and like i said before even if you did blow one coil that means you still have another coil to go through before needing another woofer. Im still not saying this is what needs to be done but it is an option and sometimes needed

 

Bro why are you looking on ebay? such a rip off. check this out its much cheaper and the same exact thing. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=21350

 

+1 albo