Pioneer 5900IB Head Unit
JL Audio 500.1 Monochannel Class D Amp
2 12" Kicker 07CVR122 2 ohm Subs
Stinger 4 gauge Amp Wiring Kit w/ fuse block, grounding terminal

Head unit powers on fine, then amp kicks on when head unit comes on, but it's not pushing the subs. the subwoofers are not making any sound or bass at all. i notice when i unplug the subs and then plug them back in, it goes Whoomp once and that's it.

I have a green power light on the amp when I turn the radio on.

head unit, subs, capacitor is new....jl audio amp is used. ive played with all the head unit settings and the amp settings and i get nothing. im confused. ive checked to make sure they wires for the subs are in the proper postive and negative slots.

subs are dual voice coil subs and they were wired in series.

if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

im getting 13.85 Volts DC from the capacitor, 13.85 Volts DC @ the amp, and 13.85 Volts DC at the battery, so i know that's good...i get continuity through all the power connections, etc.

 

I'd say call up Pierson's Auto Stereo in Livermore, CA. I know those guys and they deal almost exclusively with JL stuff. Very talented guys. (925) 443-7865. Keep it short and to the point.. they're very busy people and friends of mine.

 

well i called them and he said he couldnt do it over the phone, so i have no idea.

 

well I tried. Got a local stereo shop?

 

well i know the subs work, cause i brought both of em and hooked em to dad' big stereo, and they put out bass and work just fine.

so it has to be the damn amp...man this ticks me off.

$231 down the drain. i wonder if it's too late to file a claim on paypal since i bought it on ebay, and paid w/ paypal.

 

could be the remote on the back of the deck, you might need a special adapter..

(same thing happened with mine and it was because the remote signal do-hicky on the back of the deck didn't work correctly, they just plugged it into the accessory on the back and it fired right up)

 

Wire up something to the amp that has an RCA jack, like an ipod, walkman,Boombox that has an output to your amps input. It could be the head unit but only way to rule it out is to hook up another source to amp. Make sure you check the fader and front, rear controls. Also make sure you hooked up the amp to the output of your head unit and not input. I doubt its the remote lead to turn on the amp as it has a light and speakers pop. You can always jumper the postive to the remote to turn on any amp. One more thing is to make sure the gain pot switch is turned up on the amp, you will need a small screwdriver to turn this ****. Sometimes mono amps come with a bass boost **** that may have not been included in your auction amp.

 

actually i think this is the problem. but need someone qualified to look at it and tell me.

i was under the impression this JL Audio 500.1 amp was a mono channel, but apparently it's a mono block, 2 channel amp if I'm reading this right.

so with that in mind i wired my speakers this way



but kicker manual shows this way



would this have anything to do with it?

 

Uhhh I think I would go to a local reputable sound shop near by and have them check it out, might be something they see all the time and not take them long.

 

Doesnt matter if its mono,2ch etc. 2 ohm,1 or 4 you should get some audio signal to the driver even if you hooked it up wrong. I would just wire 1 driver to the amps channel and see if you get anything. You said that speakers worked inside your house using another source.

Do what I mentioned above and stop dicking around the internet trying to fix a problem by reading diagrams. You need to isolate components and narrow it down to amp,head unit or speakers which you have tested good so that leaves amp or head unit.

 

well i took the amp in today to a stereo shop and they tested it and said it was bad. the outputs were not sending the signal to the subs.

to make it worse, the guy on ebay does not want to make it right, and is refusing a refund, so I'm gonna have to file a paypal claim.

 

How did you pay for it? If you used a credit card I would ask the CC to go after him.

 

paypal credit...i have a dispute opened, and am waiting a couple days to see if he replies.

he already told me via ebay it was working when he sent it out, and that it was "bench tested". he also said he doesn't issue refunds, so I will let paypal settle it. bunch of crap that you send something out and it doesn't work then you dont even want to make it right.

 

Selling my xbox360 saturday morning.

need help choosing between this amp

Kicker ZX750.1
Mono Channel Amplifier
Class D
750 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
750 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
variable low-pass crossover (50-200 Hz, 24 dB per octave)
variable bass boost with wired remote (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
Remote Bass control
PreAmp Signal Transfer (PAST) RCA outputs

or

The Kicker ZX1000.1
Class D
Monochannel Amplifier
Remote control **** with 25 ft. cable
Kicker EQ boost up to 18db
20hz - 200khz frequency response
250mv - 10v input sensitivity
95db or better signal to noise ratio
Selectable low pass crossover
Subsonic filter @ 25 hz 12 db per octave
24 DB per octave 50 – 200hz adjustable crossover
500Watts x 1 RMS 4 ohms CEA rating
1000 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms
Soft start circuit Protection circuit


Here's the Specs on my subs

12" Kicker Subs
Model # 07CVR122
Dual Voice Coil
2 ohm Subs
400W RMS
800W Peak


any thoughts?

 

did u re-wire the car, i had the ame problem,due to the factory amp that on back on the panel were the stock woofer is, all i did was re-wire it,take out the stock amp and woofer and bam, sweet sound of a kicker solo baric 15 in. woofer.

 

he found the problem.

 

well i think im gonna go with the Kicker ZX750.1, the difference is $100 cheaper than the ZX1000.1, and I dont need that much amp anyhow.