cool, i have bonus coming in and will set it aside for this. maybe i'l be runing by the time i get the intake.

 

Killer. You're on the list.

 

put me in for an intake, are you going to email us when its time to pay?

 

complete forged shortblock for sale

https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...tml#post290155

 

CDJ, gotcha.

Singlesupra: Are you in for an intake? They're gunna be shipping before you know it.

Chip... no 5.4 for a while or going diff direction entirely?

 

red, so what kind of diff will this intake make over adapters/pi intake out of the box? the typhoon claimed 23 hp over stock pi.

 

The typhoon on adapters lost Saleen S330 (testing my typhoon intake) 10hp and 26lbs of tq off the peak and never showed any promise to my eyes even on 4.6's... I don't know where they got their numbers from but they didn't show up in the dyno results. Kinda a shame. It was a pretty looking intake.

Guessing on peak returns isn't going to be a good idea because it's just a guess. Given that the flow path is much straighter than with plates I'm betting on a solid 10-20hp gain and nice area under the curve gains especially on cars with longtubes. Cars with stock exhaust manifolds or shorties... they may not gain much on the peak but the powerband will almost certainly be better positioned for a sports car application. The trucks peak tq below 2900rpm which is useless for us. We want the peak tq up closer to 4000 or so rpm.

 

no 5.4, not for me. i sold all my 5.4 stuff to a friend of mine. now he is unable to finish the project so it is all up for sale.

 

you're making me a saaaaaad panda.

 

I'll take one,
and I guess I should give alittle background. I've got a 97 GT and I've been keeping an eye on the thread. The swap only makes sense for me since a PI swap would be about the same price. I've got a complete '03 5.4 and I'm left needing an intake, cash in hand, so to speak. I'd also be interested in a set of longtubes later on.

 

don't quote me, but i believe the 23 hp gain on the typhoon was on a fully built boosted 4.6l.

stock/near stock, its trash.

 

Welcome. I've put one more on the tally for you. We've gotten great response. Any other watchers out there?

That would make sense.

 

For anyone looking for an engine, there's a crashed Expedition on eBay selling for $700 for the entire vehicle that isn't too badly dinged up. Plus, you can always part it out to make up for the cost of your build.

 

Link please

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-fo...QQcmdZViewItem

 

damn you ford racing...



all new aluminum 4.6l cobra engine. and for $6,700 its one hell of a deal. would be hard pressed to build an engine for less than that.

 

Too bad they don't offer cheaper Iron versions or 5.4 versions. In fact, too bad they don't offer any serious parts for the Mod engine. All that FRPP offers is a 4V cam kit, 4V head, 2V head (which uses the old NPI style ports), ported 3V heads (why can't they offer the same for PI), valve covers, and 4V intake. It's time they expand their offerings to the level they offer the W/C SBF guys and 385 BBF huys.

 

To the guys running the 5.4 h beam rods off ebay, do they weight the same as a stock rod or are you all having the rotating assy rebalanced with the new rods? I have been told that on a lower revving engine you might get away without a rebalance but Ive allways had them rebalanced but have allways put together high revving engines so perhaps there is some truth to it?

Also, are the lightning shortblocks the same as a standard 5.4 shortblock(same rods, etc...) as found in say an expodition?

 

you'll want to have it balanced. There's enough part changing going on. No reason to cheap out on the cheap part.

SC Lightning motors came with forged pistons and stock 5.4 PM rods. All the rest of the bits are the same. NA 5.4's came with HE cast pistons and PM rods. IIRC only the 2000 Cobra R came with H-beams in a factory 5.4 modular.

FWIW... I had mine balanced and blueprinted. It's a quick revving sumbitch! 12lb flywheel or no it'll ramp some RPM fast.

I fired the beast again last night so a friend could hear it. Damn thing is LOUD and nasty sounding. I'll see if I can get a good sound and video clip this weekend.

 

So the rods are the same in both. Are the stock NA pistons the same as the stock PI mustang pistons?

 

From all the motors I've ripped apart in the last couple years, yeah... that about sums it up.

 

you can put me down .. if i need to send a deposit just let me know

 

no deposit needed. You're on the list.

My latest count has more than 10 definite takers. Spread the word... we need as many as possible.

 

couple more questions.
Front timing cover-is this the same reguardless of head chosen? if its diff how(besides making a custom cover or modifying a stock 5.4 cover?) to make it fit?

b heads- anyone ever ran a set of b heads on a 5.4? Any 5.4's ever came with b heads?

b heads- do the mk8's and cobras use the same cams stock?

 

Ok guys my eyes are now bleeding from reading all of these posts >< lol...
Thanks for all the great info i've read already. I have a 02 mustang Gt 5spd car (tr3650). I am now working on gathering all the parts for my engine build, and I have a list of my plans. I'd like any suggestions from you guys on my swap.

1. I got a 98 5.4 complete longblock for free includes timing cover and everything but accesorys from which i read all my 4.6 parts will fit for that. I believe I will need to buy a 5.4 tensioner though.

2. 98 will be a steel crank from what I read yeah?

3. I plan on using my PI heads from my current 4.6 in my car with some porting.

4. I am gonna go with comp cam 270 camshafts and comp valve springs.

5. I will need a cobra flywheel (8bolt) and a cobra clutch for use with my tr3650? I am planning on getting a Centerforce DF clutch.

6. I will be using adapter plates or Hardballer intake if its ready to go bye the time I am. /hopes...

7. I am gonna rebuild the lower end using Hbeam rods and forged pistons, what is the best Compression to run for this? I dont plan on supercharging or turboing it. Maybe I will nitrous it a small amount some day. I drive this car alot on street.

8. I have a Upr hpipe so from what I read I'll have to have that modified to fit which if I cant do it I can easily find a exhaust shop to do this.

9. Atm my 4.6 has the K&N Fipk kit and Bbk upper plenum and 75 mm tbody, and flowmasters, and a Diablo computer. Which all should work with a 5.4 yeah? I have a great local shop to do the Dyno tuning once I get it together.

10. I have 3.73's now so from what I read ill probaly have to switch them out.

11. Will this fit under my hood on my 02 gt? I have the factory hood scooped hood? Will just some cutting be enough?

12. Any of you South Carolina ppls know of any good modular machine shops in the area?

Im very excited to get this goin so any hints or constructive criticism would be aprecciated.

Thx again Bryan

 

K... let's rock:

I've got a spare tensioner if you need it. Cheap. Otherwise you got that right.

Yep... should be a nice strong crank. It'll take whatever you can throw at it.

I'd buy a set of used PI heads. porting can take time and PI heads are a dime a dozen. Buy a spare set and have those ported. Minimize downtime.

I have some ideas for better grinds. Cost is the same but it should make more power. LMK if you want to be the guinea pig.

I have an 11" 03 cobra flywheel and a complete 11" clutch for it (used but still good). New take off flywheel and OEM style disc and PP. I went with a 10.5" setup down from my 11". Don't forget a new pilot bearing and a new TOB. They're cheap but you'll want to install them with the tranny out... this is a good time.

Usual engine build and head port takes several months. It'll be there. Adapter plates are hard to find right now.

I went with a -4.5CC dished Probe SRS piston. Netted 10.5:1 compression with a .020 overbore. Much higher isn't friendly to the odd tank of bad 91 octane but about 11.5:1 is as high as you'd want even with big overlap cams for a street car. If you have the option, stick with 87 octane friendly compression under 10:1. Higher compression isn't going to get you much more power but it will limit what gas you can use. Shooting for around 9.8:1 is about right.

It's cake for H- pipes. X's are much more difficult. I'm thinking of swapping to an H.

Yep... you're still right. Damn... you might be one of the best attention payers ever.

That's your call. The fat cams make it easier to live with nasty gears but 3.55's are about where I'd call the limit for 5 speed cars. If you like smoking them hides... 3.73's are the phat food for that.

Here's a shot of under my stock 03 hood. We have the same hood and roughly the same mods on top:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...110307_001.jpg

Rock and roll man. It looks like you read enough to do it right and you're not planning on cheaping out where it counts so I say rock and roll.

if you want you can try my theoretical-best-grind-ever cam spec: 226/244 @ .050, .535/.550 111.5LSA. That should be wonderful on tq all the way across the band with a nice smooth hp delivery out to around 6K where it'll start to lean over. That's perfect for a street stroker. LMK if your grinder wants more details on the cam. Install straight up for smokin power.

 

Stopped by machine shop and snapped a few pics of new motor. Also found out that the factory deck hieghts where about almost .010" different front to back on each bank. Had to resurface block they are now withen .002 and pistons are exactly .100" in the hole to give me a final compression ratio of 8.5 to 1.

 

w00t. almost done. Looking good.

I did my first break-in oil change this morning. Cut open the filter and checked out all the nastiness in it. Looks like the rings and bearings are seating just fine with no major flaking. All signs are still looking good.

I'm working on getting my tune refined and stable. I've got it streetable for break-in but I'm not taking it to WOT till it's got a couple more oil filter changes on it.

 

R3d I have been building cars since 96 and have only had to break one in on flat tappet motors, other than that just a few heat cycles and an oil change are more than enough, with todays rings and tight tollerances my engine builder says to drive it like you stole it. I'd say get the tune right and put the hammer to it!

 

when i was in auto mech school i had one teacher that said 500 miles to break it in and another that said if you built it right you can flog it the first day. so i'm still out on which is better. i've used both methods with sucess and still haven't picked the better one. this motor i haven't taken it over 2500rpms but that is cus of the fuel issues i was having. plus i have a brand new clutch to break in also...