The inlet is where the L schrader valve used to be. I drilled out the inside of that stand to greater than the ID of the stock Mustang line. I put the FRP sensor where the L inlet used to be. The other lines are pinched off and welded shut (L return line etc. ) It works and all, but I am thinking that is where my pressure dropoff is. I measured the pressure at the outlet of the filter last night while driving, and it ramped up to 72 PSI at the filter as it should. The PSI at the rail drops off bad. SO, my pumps are good, the filter is flowing, the FPDM command is good, the FPDM is good. The hard line from the filter to the rail is undamaged. SO, I decided, that the best way to move fwd, is to get as set of 99-01 Cobra rails and modify the brackets on them to bolt them up to the L Lower intake. The confuguration is already correct for my setup as far as the inlet location, FRP sensor location etc. etc. Yes, I will likely have to widen it by putting a longer high pressure fuel injection hose crossover on it, but no prob. Aftermarket rails are crazy expensive, PLUS ones that will fit the L lower, wont have a FRP sensor flange. I got a set of Cobra rails on the way. We shall see..........

 

are either or both of the FPR and FRPS in the first pic connected to vacuum? I would think you'd need to cut one or the other out. If you're using it as a return style then the FRPS shouldn't be needed. If you're running returnless then the FPR is not appropriate.

In the pic you have the FPR open to the atmosphere. I would think that that would cause the FPR to think you're always at WOT and slow the flow back to the tank but that would have the opposite effect that you're seeing. However I don't know what if any role you have the FRPS playing... if it detects 0 vacuum then it'll think you're at WOT but the ECU probably wouldn't add voltage since it'd still be detecting consistent pressure. In theory this whole line of thought should be off base but at this point I don't know. I have a notion to send you the two halves of my returnless stock lines. FWIW, Joey54l is selling a stock 4.6 returnless line and a 5.4 return style line.

 

That was just a pic when I was putting it together. The FRP is connected to the boost side reference. The regulator is there, but it is just to fill the hole, the line is pinched off and welded shut. It is returnless. I have a set of 99-01 Cobra rails on the way. That should eliminite a lot of this BS and get me fixed up............I hope.

 

have 3 authentic saleen chrome rims for sale,saleen is stamped on the lip,hit me up if interested

 

check it out

 

Its odd how it looks like the small end got hot, the pin should have been able to move in the piston even if the rod ends were out of square, no??

 

Came out of a 4.6 huh... Boy if that had been a 5.4 the rod would have snapped in the middle and the owner would be buying a new block instead of rebuilding his old one.

 

here is another testament

i would like to thank nmra racer/dyno tuner chris tuten for such a great job,he knows how to tune 5.0's but doesnt know **** about tuning a mod motor.this was 50 miles from the dyno shop,i could write a book on what went wrong,to make a long story short stay away from chris tuten,i will take my cahnces with rick @amazon anyday,if i would have known about him earlier i would have went there from the getgo

 

Om my god...what happened there? Or do i mean, what DIDN'T go wrong?!

 

Who wants to help me out with a parts list and stuff for setting my car up for a track only setup?

 

Well crap.... I hemmed and hawed long enough over the 2010 3v that somebody else clicked the 'buy it now'.... I've seen enough bad opinions on SHM that I just couldn't quite make up my mind to buy from them, but that was probably the best deal I could find so I'm back to square one. Same thing with MMR, there are enough bad opinions to be found that I've stayed away from them. Right now I'd probably buy a 2, 3, or 4 valve if I found the right deal....

 

What kind of track? Drag or Road Course?

 

That is where they heat it up to press the pin out.

 

Thought mods had full-floating pins?

 

Start with a PILE of cash and get your chassis configured before you touch the drive train.

For any serious road course racing I'd look to Griggs SLA setup if it's class legal. If not, then it's really going to depend on the sanctioning body rules.

All of them I've ever been inside of did... pushed every pin out with my thumb so far.

BTW guys: I posted a thread in the PICS section just for 5.4 swappers. Share your eye candy. Let's get all the pics of parts (especially neato and shiny ones) that qualify as eye candy and post up over there. I'm deleting any posts that don't include 5.4 swap/parts pics so it'll be a nice little showoff thread for the 5.4 community without any thread pollution.
https://mustangboards.com/pictures/4...ap-thread.html

 

well here is finished product

 

ok when i go built and get a kenne bell im gonna have to make mine polished like that. man that looks too good!!!

 

No, they press into the rod

 

Man, that threw me for a loop there for a second. The pic is reversed somehow. Wierd.

 

Drag

 

just picked all my stuff up,ready to build motor now,here is a quick mockup of finished product

the bridge all pullies all tensioners are still being polished,all steel brackets are being powdercoated in wet black.dam im ready to drop the bitch in!!!

 

So tell me, what is polished, what is chrome and what is powdercoated?? I mean just the basics on the larger components

 

the12fast4u, the motor looks awesome!


Bad news for me...I'm going to really regret not buying that 2010 engine a couple days ago.... I started pulling mine apart to maybe get a rebuild started and I've got a broken rod. The broken big end put a hole inside the block into what must be an oil galley, so the block is crap. The piston got thrown upward and contacted the head, so the head will need to come apart too. I have no idea what approach I'm going to take now...







The part that really confuses me is neither end of the rod showed any problem, they both moved freely and the bearings looked perfect. I have no idea why it would have snapped??

 

nothing is chrome or powdercoated,its all polished aluminum sealed with zoop seal ,all my steel brackets,alternator,coolant tubes,water pump pulley,alternator pulley,are going to be powdercoated,but everything in the pics is polished ,thanks for comment x2

 

:l.... = me drooling over the12fast4u's engine

 

Hey guys, I need a bit of reassurance here. I just took my non-tuned 5.4 swapped car to the track (1/8th) to get a baseline run to see how much the tune helps it later. I obviously didnt expect a great time, but the best I could get was a 9.55 @ 77mph. I'm a consistent driver, ran 9 flats all day long with my 4.6 in there. I realize the tune is off bad, but could it be off THAT much. That's at least half a second I need to make up for here.

I didnt have my DR's with my tonight, and track prep was terrible, best I could muster all night was a 2.39 60ft. I'm hoping the weather might have been to blame on my times too. Got a buddy that runs high 8's usually and he couldnt break 9's tonight.

You guys think a tune will help me that much? Im pretty disappointed.

 

VegasGT,
Why are you abusing that engine without a tune? Your A/F ratio is off without a tune. Did you do stock headers on that motor? My understanding is that by using the the RR adapters, you will get more hp under the curve below 3000rpm, but after that the 5.4 and 4.6 will be similar in power. If you want more top end power, lose the adapter plates and get the HPS hardballer intake. That should be worth 30hp on the top end. Stage 2 cams with the hard baller will give you another 30-40hp on top of that.

Unless you are swaping a bad motor with a super strict budget, I wouldn't swap a 5.4 without the HPS intake, cams, and at least shorty headers.

Does anyone know if any midlength headers fit with this swap?

 

Whats your usual 60' with the 4.6? What mph with the 4.6?

Given the 60', weather, and no tune why are you even trying to compare? Yes, the tune will make a HUGE difference if its well done. The cpu is calculating all the spark and fuel delivery based on 281 c.i. and that throws it all of. If I remember right I picked up around 30 hp with tuning.

 

first of all get that bad boy tuned.

whats your normal 60 ft? im not sure how it works with 8th mile but from what im told with qtr mile races for every 10th you take off in the 60 ft equals about 2 tenths in a qtr mile. so if you run a 2.0 in the 60ft instead of a 2.3 thats 6 tenths of a sec off right there.

i assume your car is capable of a 2.0 but with you tune the engine could be hesitating. other than that just get you 60 ft down. back when i had a vortech blown 4.6 with stock sus., stock rear...well had 3.73's, stock trans, stock stall, etc i was running a 2.0 60 every time. supercharged or not it would be the same cause the charger didnt do its thing until it was higher in the rev range.

 

PLEASE DO NOT RUN 5.4's UNTUNED! I can't believe my eyes... running a motor at the track without it being tuned...you're asking for a busted connecting rod and a new motor.

1. Tune it. Your ECU is only going to make the thing run worse and worse over time till it knows that there's extra displacement.

2. Once you tune it to get the fuel and timing right, you should be fighting only your driving at that point. I can tell by your 60' time that you hammered the gas right at the line and spun like crazy, try feathering out the clutch a little longer and and spinning less.

3. Take your DR's with you next time. Those are worth their weight on the trailer.