I've ran mine for about 8k miles without the upper alternator bracket, with plates at first, then when I swapped to the HPS, I havent had any issues. Apparently they made the HPS to fit the later style bracket, mine was a '97 and it didnt fit, so I didnt bother with it.

I think one of us had issues with it but thats been awhile back.

 

What kind of clearance do those headers have with the transmission if I was trying to install a new clutch? Would both of them have to come off?

 

The tune should help most if not all of the major drivability issues. Adapter plates ain't helping but that's mostly in how they muck up the fuel delivery. The sluggishness of throttle response is all in the tune. IIRC that's part of the accelerator pump settting.


I used a couple spacers and longer bolts on the alternator side when I used adapter plates. When I switched to the HPS intake my stock bracket just worked. At some point I removed the bracket completely and never had trouble with it.

Worst case, just use a couple bits of flat .080-.120 thickness bar stock and drill a couple holes in it. The bracket is only holding lateral forces, there's no vertical load on it so it can be pretty flimsy along the weak axis as long as you can put a couple hundred lbs of hanging load on the strong axis.

AFAIK, on 99+ there's no problem using the stock bracket with the HPS intake.

Maybe not all the way out but they will almost certainly have to be pulled at least off the heads so you can pull the bell housing bolts. You don't have to pull them "out" but off yeah, unfortunately them's the breaks with LT's.

 

That's good news on the HPS if they ever make another one.

The deal with the headers makes me think I might want to think about using a different clutch. I've got a used spec stage 3 but I don't want to be pulling headers and changing clutches right after breaking in the new motor.

 

This thing is finally coming together.

Heres a shot of the tork tech kit installed on the 4.6


Yankin the 4.6 out


Some build pics




5.4 Built to a Longblock


I've still got some port matching to do on the torktech intake runners this week, but all and all its FINALLY coming together.

 

eviloxide...that engine is looking good.

ok i got more questions but this time around a made a video showing the problems. i did that for 2 reasons. one i thought it would be more easy to explain and two...i just got a camera.

just dont make fun of my talking and video skills to much since i never made a video before.

also if you see something i have done wrong be sure to tell me.

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=M4V00184.flv

 

got a few tuning questions guys...
I threw a narrow band a/f gauge into my 5.4L n/a GT. I know its not the most accurate, but it was sittin on my shelf so i utilized it. Ive driven about 1500 miles on my swap so far and wanted to see how bad off I am with the theorized lean condition. WAY LEAN! According to this, I am running between 14.7 and 15.5. NEVER hitting any rich condition. Cruising at speeds I am resting no better than 15.0. When I drop onto the go pedal, It richens up a bit but never past 14.7.
My swap was the most basic swap. Took the old 4.6 out and in its place with all the stock parts (i.e. intake, injectors, etc...) replaced it with the new 5.4L. I have no tune for it yet, didnt need to modify the exhaust or anything and it runs like a champ. Since the swap, I have been down a bit on funds (replenshments are slow!!!) so I am trying to find the best bang for the buck or best mods that I may utilize now.
I was thinking of taking the car to the local SCT tuner, but I have minimal mods to this car. I am not sure its worth it.
Can you guys guide me along the best route of purchases to get this beast running safely?
I was thinking of getting a hand held tuner xcal 2, or xcal 3, or diablo sport? all can be found on the cheap used.
Injectors, I see mach 1 guys selling the 24lb for 60-90 bucks a set. good news there, but are they gonna be big enough later? Lightning guys get rid of the 42lb'ers pretty cheap too. THAT would be better in the long run with the plans of the turbo setup in the next year. Can I run n/a with 42's though or would they be too much?
MAF, I see 03-04 cobra mafs all day long online less and less. Sounds like they are identical to the Lightnings maf. With the N/A setup, can I use this bigger maf? Can I use it without the tuner? I hear it fattens up your mixture? !?
Im sure Ill have more questions later, but thats enough to get me started. Thanks again guys.

BTW, no alt. bracket here on my swap either. No problems so far. I dont plan on putting it back on either. Should be fine as is. ( thats probably why those damned plastic intakes cracked! Arghhh)

 

cardude that sensor in the manifold is air temp sensor or iat,that was 1999,2000 lightning intake,the one on the newer manifolds 01 -04 like you have is on the passenger side,i bought a stainless plug and deleted it,you dont need it cause the gt's have it in their cold air tube, on my 2001 4.6 it was on the bottom of intake tube right up stream from the mass air meter thats how i did my l setup also,i wish i had taken more pics of it before i pulled motor back out!hopefully this video will help you, out skip to about 2.50 mark should see how vac lines are routed,also this is the car untuned running in the video,this was the day before i took it to get dyno tuned.also 1 other problem i encountered was engine temp sensor,i went and got a brass t and screwed the gt coolant temp sensor in it,hooked that up by the heater core(thats in video to)because that is where the water is just exiting the block ,and its at its hottest temp ,but for the record everything you see in the video passed final inspection at the tuners.he said everything was hooked up and evrything was working proper he said he didnt see any red flags,and driveability was great i left the dyno shop in the rain car rode and drove like a stock gt until you went w.o.t then it was a whole different car

 

Put a new stage 3 in and you should be good for a good long time. If it's going to be too big a problem then really you should reconsider the longtube plan and just use JBA shorties.

Does this mean that TT is actually making the 5.4 runner plates for their blower kit and that you're going to use them? If so, this is really interesting.

you're making the vacuum thing too hard on yourself. You have manifold-vacuum and reference-vacuum and ambient (air). Everything except the boost gauge and the FRPS gets reference vacuum.

The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and the boost gauge go to the port on the midplate.

Everything else goes to pretty much any of the reference vacuum ports which are ABOVE the rotors. It doesn't really matter which reference vacuum ports you use for anything. Plumb it how you can. The pics on my website are fairly high res in most cases. Should be helpful.

Manifold-vacuum ports are below the rotors. This side gets pressure and vacuum. Your FRPS and boost gauge are the only things that really want those. Turns the FRPS into sorta a electronic FPR.

The IAT2 (Intake Air Temp 2 / manifold temp sensor) looks to have migrated locations over the years. I deleted mine and ran an autometer gauge. You don't need the IAT2 but some people (mostly those with 96-01 gt's) will move the IAT1 from the snorkel to the manifold. (I think that's kinda silly but I'm sure they have a reason in their minds which probably doesn't account for boyle's law.)

Your boost bypass actuator is broken. It should be QUITE FIRMLY in place. You should be able to damn near lift the blower by it without it budging. Looks like the rivets gave way. You may be able to pop rivet it back in place. That appears to be what held it on in the first place, looking at the pics of mine.

Like the man said, you'll need to deal with the coolant temp sensor. I drilled and tapped mine but that's a 1 shot deal. You do it right or **** it up completely. I'd do it his way.

The thing with the 2 vacuum ports on the driver side rear of your manifold is for the EGR. If you're deleting the EGR, then delete that dealie too.

 

question guys...im getting no clutch at all..i can start the car in gear and it moves, so i know that
the trans is engaged. but when i push the pedal in and try to shift into gear, all i get is grinding...

 

So in other words its not disengaging? Did you adjust up the cable?

 

I got the 5.4 plates back in July '09 when I ordered the TT kit so they've been pumpin em out for a bit now.

I'll post pics with the blower/intake mounted with some mesurments on height to see how well it fits. I'm hoping this setup fits under my 03 cobra hood without MM k member lowering plates.

Also Red can you run a sim on my setup.
331ci/TFS 44cc/18cc pistons/ TT M112, 18lbs boost/ stock manifolds/ offroad h-pipe/CMS stage 3 blower cams

Have a lightning MAF but I'm scared I'm gonna peg it with this combo.

 

So I am planning on finding a 5.4 dohc motor and any other parts and putting them in a gt with a blown motor or possibly a really cheap v6 if I feel up for it lol. I'm trying to keep it low budget for now. I most likely won't be going cams, heads, or rebuilt internals for now. I have been doing a ton of research, but I had a few questions.

1. Would widening an 01ish Cobra lower intake and making an adapter plate for the upper work for the swap?

2. Can you use the 5.4's accessories? I know you need to switch over the sensors.

3. Is there much power for a stock 5.4 dohc with just an intake? I know it is more than the 4.6 lol. I just want to make it worth the swap without spending a lot of money right now.

4. Can you use a 4.6 sohc wiring harness or should you use a dohc one? (maybe they are the same???)

I think it would be awesome if someone made a sticky that contained only the parts needed for this swap. It may be out there, but I keep finding just bits and pieces all over the place.

 

not sure about your project but you should look at this. I'm ramming my head against the wall that I didn't see this when I was engine hunting.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1217921

Run that motor with the sullivan intake and I think you would be happy. The intake would cost more than your engine but I guess that's part of modding.

 

my sims ran well above 500rwhp depending on your blower kit and a number of factors. I couldn't tell how well the intercooler works so I had to guess. I also played with the boost. I'm not entirely sure you'll get the 18lbs you're expecting, with those heads and cams and the pulley I saw in the pics, I'm thinking you're going to lose some manifold restriction and pick up some flow. Down at 14lbs of real manifold pressure it's saying 500 and change to the tires. I don't think you're going to get outside the MAF's capabilities just yet but yeah, you're getting close.

The thing I would worry about is your drivetrain. You're looking at a 700-800btq monster. Clutch, rear diff, tranny and frame all need to be strengthened. You're looking at a multi-disc clutch no matter how you slice it and I'm thinking a TKO600 is about the least tranny you're going to be able to deal with. For the rear end... 9" ford time.

Please don't kill yourself in this car. It's really going to be a handful.

1. Yeah if you use cobra/mach heads. Navi heads are a tad different.
2. I guess so. Nothing really stopping that. A few pigtails may be different. A good donor 4v car would make it tons easier. Sorta' general rule of thumb is try to stay 4v on 4v, 2v on 2v and 4v on a v6.
3. Be very respectful of even a basic 5.4 in 2v or 4v in a mustang. They have TONS of grunt at very modest RPM's and will bust the meats loose like a 4.6 could never dream of. The more you do to them, the more it pays off too. Any bolt-ons that work on a 4.6 for the most part work on a 5.4 swap (headers are the big exclusion).
4. If you have a 2v GT to start with, you can use its harness for 4v but there's a bit of wire extending. With a 4v harness... IDK. 2v harness works as is on a 2v 5.4.

That in fact would be about awesome as solutions go. I think the sullivan is better at higher RPM than a stock navi is safe to rev to but it'll still be a fun *** car.

 

Amazing thread. I have a 01GT with a Tremec 3650 and a tired stock 4.6 engine that I use for high performance driving events. I'm going to look for a low mileage 01-04 truck motor. Mods will be jba shorty headers, bbk 78mm tb/plenum combo, HPS intake, 24lb injectors, urethane motor mounts, and a retune for my SCT X3.

Anyone know a shop near central NJ that would be interested in taking this on this winter?

 

Something I was thinking of. If I stumbled across some pistons off a navi or other n/a 5.4 dohc, what else runs that setup? But would there be any gains from added compression by swapping them out? Is it a worthwhile mod if i can pick up the pistons for cheap? Let me know if it's worth changing them out or not.

 

From the mechanics point of view this should be a straight motor swap. Any mustang shop in your area should be capable of pulling it off. The tune is not hard but does require a good qualified tuner to get it right. If you can possibly afford it, now is the time to put some hotter cams in the motor. Heads may be too pricey for most people but cams can be had fairly cheap used, are relatively easy to install and 5.4's could seriously use them. Something like a MHS 54PI stage 2.5 or Stage 3 would really wake it up up top. Expect a giant tq gain and a modest hp gain.

higher compression is always nice (within limits of course). The bigger question for you is, is it worth the cost of re-balancing and re-ringing and re-assembling the motor to use a stock cast piston at that point? If you're going to put flat tops in it the cost will go up far enough that I think it's worth it to go with a forged set of pistons and rods (www.themustangdepot.com). If your budget is hard capped and the navi/cobra slugs are cheap then yeah, might as well take it as far as you can afford to.

 

I didn't think about the balancing part, nor do I know what is involved or what it costs to have it done. I think I'll just stick with what I've got, run it for now and if I ever do decide I need to step up to a higher caliber, I'll pull it, get the block bored .030 over, forged internals with low compression and some boost. I'll be happy for now with my stockish setup and a good set of cams and springs. But it's still gonna be a while before I get everything together so if my budget allows it, I can upgrade. I think internals will be the very last thing I touch.
Now the question is, while in this waiting game, do I build my suspension or work on the body. Guess that depends on what kind of deals I can find.

 

are the comp XE268H cams any good for this application?

also came across some navi heads for a good deal. I'm thinking since I'm tired of waiting around on the hardball'r I might pick these up. I'm guessing I would lose some needed compression though. How much would doing the 4v swap be a good upgrade? Also, I'm assuming I'd need a new timing cover wouldn't I? I don't really know how much wiring changes there would be either.

I'm just keeping my options open because I need to do something and pick a direction to go soon.

edit: with the 4v swap, I'm assuming I could just pick up a cobra or mach engine harness and be good to go on that so wiring isn't really a problem.

I'm looking at heads, timing chains, valve covers, and probably have to move the alternator so I would have to get that bracket that moves it over, and then the wiring harness. Oh yea and some kind of headers because stock logs definitely wont bolt up to 4v heads, will mustang headers work on the navi heads? I'm full of questions, but I'm strarting to really lean towards going 4v. My power goals seem like they could be easier to accomplish going 4v.

 

Intakes start shipping mid-late next week. The foundry is finally sending them to the machine shop today and Monday.

Comps off-the-shelf grinds aren't the best for the application (I have 270's). They're a heck of a lot better than stock but still not ideal. Hi-Tech, MHS, Cushman and others all make better grinds for 5.4 use.

4v will be a good bit more expensive and without better cams won't really be appreciably better. IMHO a 4v without a bottom end set up for 7500rpm is a waste.

 

So I see a lot of people using the 03/04 cobra heads and cams on the 5.4 dohc, and I also read that the 96-98 cobra cams may also be a good choice? I was wondering if the 96-98 cams in the nav heads would be a better choice over the 03/04. I don't want to switch heads, but I could find some used cobra cams. Also, would I need to change springs or anything else?

If I go with the Cobra cams and an intake, will that be enough work to wake the 5.4 up?

 

4v guys, school him.

 

I just ordered my Navi heads. No turning back now.

 

Where have people bought a short/longblock from? I've got my 3v pulled and can't decide what to do. Wanted to go with a local guy to rebuild, but it looks like 3-4 month wait. Was seriously considering ordering a shortblock from MMR, but there's enough bad opinions about them that I don't think that will work. Sounds like they farm out all the machining and assembly. Any other reasonable and reliable options out there?

 

Will the reall 330 please stand up...


Whats up guys, Its time for change so most of my stuff is up for grabs, Decided to take some extra cash to pay off my truck and hopefully bt the end of the year try out my original plans of a Single T-70...

Lighting Parts For Sale, If anyones interested can be found here...

https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...-w-extras.html

 

ok so i was browsing craigslist and found a 6.8 v10 for 100 bucks i just bought it!lol,i have this sick *** idea to implant it in a stang ,im thinking its gonna be custom tt or single turbo kit with a sheetmetal intake from mmr,i know the 6.8 is the same thing as the 5.4 but with 2 more cylinders so rods and pistons and valvetrain is not a problem,i rember the silver mustang with the v10 that ford did,it ran 11's on motor i think this would be a sick insane project,thats my next project put the motor in my shop ,so the next project is gonna be crazy

 

You're gonna have fun with that. I thought it would be cool to pull off when I read about the blocks being basically the same but it requires a lot of things to make it work. Air intake will have to be completely custom, you will have to make some custom headers, you'll have to have cams ground for it, you are limited to only one head design and getting them ported is going to be expensive.
If you're willing to tackle the project though, it will be sick. With a turbo and the right internals, you're gonna have to hang on when you step on the pedal. Something you might consider though is the fact that you might have problems with the crank running boost on that engine. I feel like the crank might become a bit weak having all that length to it even if it is forged.
Good luck though, I'm interested to see where you go with it.

 

i am fully aware of the challenge,nick @mhs will be doing the porting on the heads,if i get them ported but i have looked at the 6.8 performance in trucks and there is enough aftermarket support to pull it off,hell whipple makes a blower for it! port the heads put forged internals in it and slap a whipple on it,im not sure which route i will take yet still doing r@d on it,but if we can put men on the moon there is nothing that cant be done with enough will

 

i know the test car u were talking about...that thing was wicked.....it was a v-10 4 valve which sucks cause there aren't any v-10 4 v heads.

but yea the v-10 can be done...maybe this person could help ya out

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select4734.htm