what was the price quote?

 

I still have a few random modular parts left in case any of you are looking for them...

75mm Throttle Body - Summit Brand - $75
24 lb/hr injectors - $100
(8) COP Coils for 2V heads - $50
Full set of standard diameter Flat-Top (-8cc) Pistons (Stock 4V) - $50
4V Windage Tray - $40

If interested, you can email me directly at jscottgt@gmail.com
I accept paypal and can have any of these shipped pretty quickly

 

Don't really want to put a quote he gave me up on a forum as it was done through PMs on the corral and it might be different for others even in a month or two. I did run numbers though and I would not be able to build the same motor myself for much less and that is just the motor. This is using all forged parts and getting the heads ported/polished, block bored .020 etc... His price was for the whole motor plus the kit. I'm just really bad at saving money and dropping it all at once on something. My style is to piece something together over the course of the year and install it in the Spring when the weather warms up. I might have to change direction with this though... Like I said, still deciding. Problem I keep having is that even stock 03/04 Cobra 4V heads flow about the same as the TFS heads and there is a ton of room to grow with those... Making me lean more and more towards the 4v 5.4 or the Teksid but everyone and their brother has a Teksid and a blower is required to break 400whp which I don't like. Still looking at the 2V though, just can't see the advantage except doing it for a low cost displacement adder by just swapping shortblocks with a PI motor already in the car for a big torque bump which the 4.6Ls sorely lack.

 

i can tell you that a non-pi 5.4 2v with adapter plates and bolt ons was fun as hell when i first did it. then driving one of the ones i did for a friend with ported TEA heads, hps intake, custon long tube headers ran like a raped ape.... the only reason that one didn't break 400rwhp cus he bought pistons dished for turbo and never installed it. so he had everything setup NA and had 8.5 compression giving him like 370ish rwhp i believe.

 

That is actually right where I was looking at being with the 4v... I know that the 4.6L 2V guys are hitting 350 to the wheels with the TFS heads so maybe a ported HPS with a .020 block/cams to take advantage of the extra displacement and all the supporting mods would get the extra power. And the dyno sheet I saw was on stock internals so the compression was not going to be anywhere close to 11.5:1 which is about what I would run with a street motor on 93 octane.

What would be a good year motor to look at for the 2v swap? I really don't care about the mileage as long as the block is good, it comes with a forged crank and is compatible with all the PI stuff. Most of the 5.4L 2Vs are up in the $800-$1000 range on car-part.com... I guess Craigslist/JYs and ebay would be the best bet right?

 

Looking for some info, hope someone that has read all this thread can point me to where to find the info.

Anyone have any luck with this 5.4 2v in a california smog car, and is getting smogged every 2 years.

Any page #'s of dyno sheets of a just bolt on 5.4 vs similar 4.6

Any california smogs with the highball intake on a 4.6 or 5.4

Cams and california?

What is the HP limit to the stock 5.4 rods, pistons, cast and/or forged crank

What a great thread, I read the first 20 pages, then skipped to about 1 year from current.

Thanks
Joe

 

Stock modular rods are the cheap cast ones... I would not push it much past 425whp for safety reasons. I knew a few guys with Lightnings that were running underdriven pullies with bolt ons making about that power. From the research I've done and the trucks I've seen/had, a stock 5.4L 2V is going to make not really much more horsepower than a 4.6 but much more torque. As for California laws... I know they are ***** however it would take someone really looking to see any difference between the 4.6 and 5.4 as long as everything got swapped over. Even a HPS intake painted or powdercoated flat black might fool them for stock, if not then get spacers and run a PI intake. I actually have a 5.4L 2V in my Expedition and I will say that off the line torque is surprising for a 7,000 lb truck. Obviously it has a truck intake and truck cams but still...

As for actual mods you can do, California requires any mod to be documented and CARB legal, you should look up your own laws in California honestly... I would never want to live there and deal with their laws unless I had an emissions exempt vehicle. Some things could fool them though like cams that have a stock idle however deliberate deception of a state inspection is highly illegal and I do not suggest it at all. No longtubes either, I know that for sure as it is a topic that comes up often enough on the Corral, FRPP shorties should comply though...

Again, the difference between the two motors is so slight that I doubt they'd notice and if they do, see what the engine swap laws are in California. I know in NJ if you swap motors the serial numbers for that motor have to be the same year as your car or newer which is very easy for modular stangs especially the earlier NPI cars. I would recommend that you make sure any mods/swap you do is compliant, be up front about everything and provide all documentation. I know from experience in all sorts of different state/federal inspections that if you are up front with the inspectors, let them know you have a modified vehicle instead of a good inspector catching you trying to get something by and have all your **** in order. I've seen what happens when someone tries to pull a fast one on an inspector...

I'm glad I live in NJ as far as inspections and emissions go. If your car is OBDII they literally do 3 checks. They scan for codes, physically verify your cats are still there and they pressurize the gas cap, that is it. This is one reason I got away from the OBDI pushrods which still have to get a sniffer...

 

stock rods are not cast..........they are forged powered metal.

 

here is an old vid i found of the 5.4 about 5 years ago when i went with a built motor.

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m...firstdrive.mp4

since then i've sold and rebuilt two more and this one is almost done with the twin hairdryers

 

here is sleepingGT's after the TEA heads and ftp long tubes:

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m...42008-Idle.mp4

 

Hey guys, I usually post on mustang forums but once i read through this thread i figured id join to ask questions and what not.I have an 01 gt with a blown 4.6 motor. After reviewing my options i decided to go with the 5.4 swap as it made more sense to me and my budget. Now i know everything i will need for the swap, in fact im picking up a motor this friday. My question is in regards to the timing chain/ cover. Do the timing chains/ covers differ from 99-04 5.4 2vs? Also where would be the best place to purchase all this at a reasonable price? Thanks!

 

Gentlemen I came across this thread and started reading it...Wow there is alot of good info on here. But I do have some general questions for you all. I have a 4.6L 2007 GT and I am looking into putting the 5.4 in her. So here are my questions:

1. What year range for a block do I need to start looking for that will work for me?
2. Since mine is a 07 will I need to change computers, wiring harness, or any other computer components?
3. I've seen the write up for this swap..How much of the information contained in the write up will work for me?

Thanks for any information or suggestions you all can give me.

 

Having read most of the header posts I have a question? I am putting a 2001 ltn motor in a 65 fairlane and need some kind of header. It looks like the ones for the mustang swap will do but is anyone making them? From what I read here the 4.6 long tube will not clear the pan? Is there a short tube version that will work? I am also working on adapting the 4.6 s/c to the motor as I need the extra 4 in the turnedup sc intake has on the ltn motor. Does anyone know of an adpater plate that could be bolted to the lower sc housing to mount a GT 500 sc to the truck 5.4?

Thanks.

Tyler

 

I finished putting the 5.4 Procharged 2V in my mustang, now I am wondering how big of a pulley I can run on the stock block?

 

post pics and videos please...

 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=3&theater there is a video. once i get it tuned i will do a bunch.

 

Here is a walk around. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...6508740&type=3

 

awesome, dyno anytime soon?

 

First thing, but I am really trying to figure out how much boost I can put on a stock 5.4 block, any clue?

 

i wouldn't go over 12psi on a stock short block

 

Bought an engine from one of the members here. It looked like it had been sitting for awhile, so I decided to take it down before throwing heads and cams at it. On top of the cast crank that was supposed to be forged, I pulled the rod caps and every single rod bearing in the motor was badly galled. Just a guess, but my thinking is the rod bolts were swapped without resizing the journal ends (ARP 2000s) - maybe by the vendor (they're no-name h-beams). Bummer.

On the bright side, at least I didn't find all this out after the motor was in the car...

 

pistons coated with thermal barrier up top and microslick on the sides....

 

Got our 5.4 Procharged finished!





And I just listed it for sale...
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/3138184161.html

 

Ok, I did not get too much input or help on my last questions to this forum but I will be taking advantages of the years of information.

When I first posted I had only had my 08 GT/CS for a short time, but just long enough to know I needed something else to get my 19 year son out of it. I read and read and decided a 96-04 was the right car to build and play with and to try and keep my 3600 mile car from growing it life of miles every month. My son didn't care for the 96-98 shape too much but was understanding if that was what we found for a toy it will be ok.... So the search began..... 3 weeks later....... on craigslist almost 200 miles away....................

I have for sale my 2003 Mustang GT in Redfire. The car has 127,500 miles approx on it right now. It has been a great car for me for the last 5 years, and it's time for something new.

Pros-
MAC Catback Exhaust
Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs
Saleen/Racecraft front struts
MAC caster/camber plates
K&N Intake
TrickFlow Plenum
BBK 70mm Throttle Body
Niche Spa wheels (18x8 f, 18x9.5 r)
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
FRPP 4.10 gears
Spec Stage 2 Clutch
SCT SF3 Tuner

Cons-
No A/C (Took it out, but have all parts minus the AC condensor)
Front bumper needs some work by the passenger side fog light
The motor may need to be replaced

Note the last line.... may need to be replace...

A few emails and a dozen or so text and the unknown motor issue is suposed to be low compression in 5 & 8.... at pick up was told has had injector codes for 5&8 in recent past....

Our mission was to drive it home 200 miles... did not have a check engine light...

first thing I notice... the clutch ...omg so stiff... and like an on/off switch.... why why why would anyone make it this way... either something is wrong or this beast of a clutch is set up for 1000 rwhp!!

Next... it has turn downs for tips... P.O. .. stated when exhaust was installed some one stole the tips.... ( I think he sold them but what ever) turn downs with nothing in the holes in the bumper...kinda lame-o, but not a big deal.

Next, my son and daugher and I drove my wifes Scion Xb for the trip, her car has every TRD item made for it, but is no sports car, but really great the my 6'5" 19 year son fits in the back seat great, and the wife loves it...but slow it is, in this case would run circles around are new mustang gt toy.....

So I get the mustang home the 200 miles without an issue and start poking at it some. Checked for codes or pending codes, made sure the check engine light really worked, cause I have no power and can feel the misfires ( or at least that is what it feels like) check readiness and alll monitiors are passed and "ready"... so I guess I will smog it now, All mods or almost all the mods have CARB EO#, which is great, except for the tune and the underdrive pulleys.... but the tune is invisilbe and the pulleys... kinda gray so I'll give it a shot....... result.... car had been deemed a "directed" smog, in California a set random % is required to go via Test Only Smog centers.... but I did not know, so after making it passed all the visual inspection onto the smog machine.... in my VIN, and out..... smog cannot be done here has to go to Ref....... in my county we are non-enhanced so no dyno smog and no test only centers...

In preparing to be smogged I checked and smog numbers, ouput was fine, only thing odd, left side 60hc, right side 30.... 100-110 is allowable... but the 5&8 cylinders that are suspected to have issues make since for 2x the smog output.... you can feel the miss but no check engine light..... smog guy was not jumping up and down but no light, all monitors completed, no smog, no exhaust leaks... he was going to have to research if there was anyway to fail me, but the machine saved him and screwed me....

So I reflashed back to stock, and all monitiors reset and I have to drive it to make them run...PIA, this car has the a/c in a bag in the trunk and it has been 98-108 since I got this baby. Did some more inspection of the lift and found one cat had hit the ground hard, and that same side ( 5&8 side) only has 1/2 the volume of exhaust out the tailpipe.... oh yea...the detail job on the car, was top up, at least 3 oil leaks to fix on the bottom, also found weld-in subframe connectors and some other bars in rear that have polybushing and zerk fittings....anyway ran out of time, will be running a back pressure test this coming week, there is a chance I have a pulled cat/muffler..... causing the mis-fire feeling and not being able to rev under load above 4000-4100...

Today I made almost the same 200 mile drive in the sons toyota pickup truck, came home with a 5.4 2001 expedition motor

So since the first of June I have purchased 14.6 liters of ford power.... 4.6 in an 08 gt, 4.6 in a 03 gt and 5.4 to go into the 03, run the 08 ---19 times down the quarte mile, and have foud 4 track days next month to pick from....my 19 year old asked if I would front him the cash for a track day, and if he can use the 08 since the 03 is not ready yet....


So any input of issues to look for causing a miss feeling , no power, but no check engine light ..that would be great..

Any thoughts on clutch broken or just stupidly stiff... and when motor is swapped what should I run for a clutch to handle 300-330 road at most with drag and track days ahead for all its life..

any one running ported heads... any good, any suggestions of whom to have do them or a link to solid data for where the runners need work to get results, I am able to do most all mechical work and have access to a few good machinest, but none are experianced ford PI head guys.

Anyone in california getting there cars smogged, anyone with cams that have EO#'s or have made it by without notice or questions.....

Anyone know of Catted H pipe vendors worth looking at....

I will smog my cars every two years, I will not pay anyone off to do it, and I am not willing to spend more than 2 hours each direction of parts/removal or install to pass. I am ok with grey area parts..such as will pass , won't noticed but not tech legal. I am a master ASE tech but not a smog tech so I am not risking my lively hood by pushing the smog limits.
So if I could firqure out have to post pics I have some of both cars..... and if I can find a bank to rob, I read the complete install instructions for the california legal edelbrock supercharger for the 08....I know what I would be doing next month...

So looking forward to playing with my fords...

And to PROAUTOGLASS.... why you not post that thing for sale 4 weeks ago, it would have left me more time to drive and play.... only issue is no price... and orange...althought there is an orange one for sale in town that my wife points out each time we see it in another spot....

Sorry for the super long post, I guess i am as excited as my 19 year old son that's lucky enough to have a wrench for a dad, and he is more lucky that his mom is ok with me using our family resources for his fun ( at least that's how I am selling it) She even when as far as oking me to sell her xB to be able to make a bigger payment on the 08, and so I can buy performace parts for it.... that one I am not going to do.... ( I am sure if I did it will cost me more than I want to think about)

The license plate will not be staying on.... my 19 year will be driving it, and our 2 days at the drag strip many many camaros ate mustang after mustang, not that there weren't any fast mustangs... but 310-330 road hp goal.... get real, many GM will get the best of us as we will hold our owe as much as possilbe...but it spells tickets and road races that cannot happen...how could someone put something so cocky on a street car...but will look real nice in my garage on the wall or on my tool box.

 

I'd swap a cheap O/R mid pipe and keep the stock unit for smog, but then again I hate california.

You might want to make sure the 5.4 has the two bolt holes on the driver's side of the timing cover for the power steering pump, the later 2v's didnt have them.

It has a firewall adjuster for the clutch cable, I would hope it has an aftermarket quadrant in there too.

If you're planning on beating on the 5.4 much I'd atleast put forged rods in it and if I had it to do over again, I'd go with trickflow heads, I seriously doubt they can see enough head to tell the difference.

 

I am going to get some sort of after-market catted h-pipe, just in case CHP inspection would not get an impound out of it, but has to be real pipe for smog test... off road pipe might just be too much trouble for my 19 year...

where am I looking for the p/s holes...and is late 2000 early 2001 an issue?

wtf is the "quadrant" that should be there too?... might this be the reason the clutch sucks?

I would do the TFS heads if it was my car, but my sons car, my money, so no...

thanks

 

That's about the time they changed, if I remember right, just look where the power steering pump is bolted on the mustang and there should be two holes in the timing cover in about the same place on the 5.4, if not you'll have to find another cover I think it was '98-00 or so, its been afew years since I had to deal with it, some of these guys might have one laying around if you need one.

The clutch quadrant is basically a small pulley the clutch cable connects to under the dash, they're plastic from the factory and bad about breaking, any mustang place sells them, your car probably has an aftermarket piece if he got the firewall adjuster.

 

Hi guys, just wanted to give an update on my 5.4 4v b-head budget build. Got all the parts for the shortblock and its going to the machine shop next week. Total cost including machine work and billet oil pump gears is $2,418. I bought all the other stuff like headers, gaskets, timing chains/guides, xpipe, etc and I'm right at my budget of $3,000. So I'm right on track with my goal. Hopefully it'll put down 340-350rwhp. I might buy some cams after all said and done. Hopefully that'd get me to 390ish. I'm stoked.

 

ok, haven't posted in awhile do to shop issues with my car. but i'm looking for another HPS intake to do another 5.4 here in bham, anyone selling one pm me. as for mine, i'm about to go batshit crazy on the shop to get something done or repayment.

 

So for those of you that remember my project being that it's been a while since I've updated anyone, I'm finally getting around to finishing. I'll have the fuel system in and together this weekend. I need to find a wiring harness as soon as possible and a hydroboost/master cylinder, and I'll have everything ready to fire up and start breaking her in. Then I'll start prepping for boost. I'm hoping to drive it before the end of November so I can get it down to my house.