I just thought I would post up since you linked me here over on corral. Finishing up my swap as soon as HPS gets this round of intakes done.

here's the baby that's going in.
54block.jpg?t=1274233532

 

Just a little udate.

Engine is in!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pics below. Had to drop the trans, but really only the driveshaft and crossmember we're holding it up so wasnt that big of a deal. Tomorrow I will get the trans re-installed, PS on, a/c delete on, and button up the engine, hopefully running on friday or saturday!!!

 

And btw, the FRPP headers BARELY cleared, didnt have to do any modifications to the.

To any creepers who still havent posted...this is LITERALLY a direct bolt in. The only cutting I had to do was for the massive MMR oilpan I got.

 

i have an 01 gt mass air housing

 

My block came with an f150 pan on it. Do I need to swap over my mustang pan or can I leave this one on there? They look different but don't know if there are any issues.

 

use the stang on and tap the baffles down alittle

 

Hey quick question... Will stock 03/04 cobra cams fit a 5.4 4v with flat top pistons (no valve reliefs)? What about ford GT cams? Just worry about piston to valve clearance.

 

It absolutely would. I've got Wombozi17 helping right now but more hands would probably help.

PM me shipped cost to 94551 and paypal address.

I wouldn't think you'd have any trouble there. Stock 4v cams don't lift very high (<.525), tend toward pretty reasonable duration, the combustion chamber roofs are angled (sorta domed) and the 5.4 has more PTV clearance anyway. I'm sure someone here (maybe birdman941 or one of the other 4v guys) can help you there.

 

Sounds good. Let me know what you need as far as a 3d model. It's been a little while but I should still be able to throw down something. Either wire or solid, or rendered. Gotta make sure the Program license didn't expire though.

 

Tap what baffles down? It should bolt right up shouldn't it?

 

Dammit...license expired on my software. I'm gonna try to figure out a way to renew it fast
(and free).

 

the anti-sloshing baffles on the inside of the pan. They hit the crank.

 

I guess I'll just have to look at it before I bolt it up because I've never seen the inside of the pan before. I love how everyone told me this swap was so easy and everything bolts up and I'm running into these little mundane details now that I'm putting it all together.

I'm still not sure if I need to buy new 5.4 idler pulleys or if I should just use my stock ones.

 

As far as putting an engine into a car that said engine was never available in that car? Its pretty easy....

Try swapping an engine into a car from a different manufacturer, or doing a 4 cyl. to 5.0 conversion on a fox, thats a little more involved. Doing a 5.4L 2V swap in a PI GT is simple compared to that.

 

I know, it really is pretty simple. This is just the first time I've ever even pulled an engine out of a car. The deepest I had been in before this was pulling my intake manifold.

Lots of learning along the way but that's not a bad thing. If I have to pull it again I'll be learning how to install internals.

Will those baffles be obvious? and can you give me any insight on if the 4.6 idler pulleys will work?

 

The pullies should work. There are 2-3 sheet metal baffles at the front of the pan. Tap these down a little or the crank counterweights will hit them. If you still have the timing cover off, you can set the pan on without the gasket and see it. Tap them down enough so they don't hit without the gasket on, then when you DO put the pan on, you know it won't hit.

 

Oh, I have 5.4 serp belt idlers, if you do end up needing some. Let me know.

 

I have a couple too... freebie if someone needs them. Just pay shipping.

If you look at my web page you'll find very high resolution pictures of my whole project, so if there's something you need to see in pics, it's probably there; if only by accident. Link in sig.

As far as the pulleys go, peep this and see if it helps:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...031109_002.jpg

I also posted a diagram over at the corral in your thread there.

As far as the little details... I've covered them a number of times but if you look in the head of this section you'll see a sticky about the meat of swapping:
https://mustangboards.com/modular-4-...-write-up.html

All the little niggly details are covered there. I get asked so often and the steps are so mind numbingly simple that it's easy to forget a detail.

As far as the baffles, they're normally about 1/2" tall. Make them 1/4" tall. A few good smacks with a hammer down the length of them is normally sufficient. It takes like 1 minute to do.

 

lightning guys. you know the 8 bolts that you torque down when putting the blower onto the mid plate? well one of my bolts is not working out for me....is this a special bolt you can only get from ford or can you get it elsewhere. thanks.

 

Okay guys, it's time for everyones favorite game....HOW MUCH POWER WILL IT MAKE!
5.4L, 9.5CR, Hocked out PI heads, custom cams (specs below), HPS Intake, C&L Plenum,
75mm tb, JLT intake, Shorty Headers, o/r H, FRPP wires, MSD coil packs, 30lb injectors.
Specs on cams:
duration at .050 is 250 intake 246 exhaust
lobe lift .5450 intake .5450 exhaust
LSA is 110.00
Duration @ .006 tappet lift intake 285 exhaust is 281
Valve timing open close
int: 15 btdc 55 abdc
@ .050 exh: 53 bbdc 13 atdc

I reeeaaallllyyyy want mid 300's. dont know if its going to happen though.

 

Well... everyone loves speculation hour, so I did a couple dozen simulations for you on desktop dyno.

Power... not mid 300's. How about just about 285-290 over 330-340. Down the line a set of LT's and the new intake will really wake it up...to the tune of probably 30hp. After that, the only thing you'll have to go to is boost or heads or both. Or nitrous. Trick flow heads, LT's and your cams would be a monster.

 

Buddie's 01 GT did 310 to the wheels with comp 278's, ported PI heads, same compression, HPS intake, bolt one and shorty headers.

Same set-up did 372 wheel with trick flow heads.

 

That helps a lot, thanks.

Looking at that picture I see you obviously took care of one thing I was planning on working on this weekend. Your alternator looks clean and mine looks almost black it's so dirty. I'm planning on taking the housing off of it and cleaning it up somehow but trying to figure out the best way. I'm just concerned with this because everything else that's going on it is new.

How much of a difference in power do you think upgrading my t/b and plenum would be? I'm thinking about upgrading since everything else is being upgraded.

Edit: and one more question. What belt are you using, I know it's not the same as a 98 f150 because I have one of those in the driveway and it's slightly different.

 

Hehehehehehe yeah i was being a little...ah optimistic. I just really want to be able to run with my friends hopped up s197 gt. I already have 4.10's in the rear so it should be interesting.

Not to mention one of our friends just got an 03 cobra vert. So I definately will need some boost to even be close

 

S197's are pigs, you don't need as much power as them to go just as fast.

 

They're seriously heavy. I took them in my car, whipped a shelby GT (not gt500) with him in 3rd and me in 4th and more than my share of regular gt's beyond that. Been handed my *** by a few much stronger cars but you really need some beef to keep up with the 5.4 on the street. TQ wins races and it makes a ton of it.

1996: You won't have a bad cap on your power band... I'm figuring it'll peter out at about 5500rpm but that's still a pretty high winder as non-CNC'd PI head 5.4's have been going. It'll lope pretty good too. I did some more sims this morning that are a little more refined and it's really liking the cam but you gotta get the headers to open the top end and let it shine.

jarryd: I used a GT belt. 6 rib. TB/Plenum are worth about 10-12hp. You can get them cheap. Your cams are a big limiting factor. So I wouldn't spend too much on bolt-on's unless there's possibility you might toss a better cam set in it down the line (it's a good idea to do that now if you can, it's really worth it). I mean... 200-400 bucks for 10hp, naw! Spend 350 and get a 100hp shot of nitrous on it.

Also, I noted that in your corral thread you mentioned you were wanting to use HPS adapter plates and your stock intake... 1)HPS makes intake manifold for this application, not plates. 2) plates suck dick. We have an intake. 3) I think you're waiting for the intake anyway and your corral post was an error or you changed your mind, so it's not important anyway... unless it is.

Plates are available from MMR pretty much any time.

 

Oh... BTW, guys, Google released their own 3 modelling software called SketchUp. It's free, I'm using it. Already have most of an intake flange done. Neener neener. I'm learning 3d CAD. Still leaving the intake to the pros but at least now I can show them what I want in a way they can understand.

 

The long tubes are around 2K right? I could see picking up the long tubes and the new intake when it comes out.

As far as the TF heads....idunno if i ever want to go through that much trouble again lol. It'll be boosted before i switch the heads out again.

 

long tubes are $1200 with x-pipe. just call FTP @ 205-631-3871 the headers alone are $1k, so u might as well spend the 200 on a stainless x-pipe already made for the lt's...

 

Oh dang not near as bad as I thought. Ill get in touch with them when I get some more mulah.