I don't think so but who knows what HE may do next. Just making a joking reference to what I thought was a hard rule about engines and their placement. I was understanding that Romeos came in cars and Windsors came in trucks. I was told this by the same guy that told me the only diff in 5.4 and 4.6 is the internals and NOTHING on the outside, thus I tossed the expedition timing cover off my 5.4 block for scrap aluminum thinking the 4.6 one in my car would fit, WRONG! Deck height diff, duh, so know I have more parts to hunt down

Thanks for the welcome r3dn3ck, I like the thread you started and glad to see you shook off the 4.6 blowhards and got this big cube swap thing going strong and supported by the industry. I'll be geting one of those Hardball'r intakes for my build since they were the first on scene, THANKS HPS FOR TAKING A CHANCE!

I'm curious if there is a Guinness record for longest running/most replied to thread.

I'll get a list and pics of some of the parts I have to offer, most are factory stuff so it may just be junk, also, we have a nice slavage yard here in Memphis that deals in ONLY late Ford products but does not advertise like the cats at MPS so maybe thay can help some of you guys out. I will be glad to pick up and ship those parts for anybody since they do not do that either that I know of.

Warford Auto Parts, LLC
1.800.506.2659
2920 Starling Pl.
Memphis, TN 38108

Thanks again guys and gals (I hope some gals are in here too, hellooooooooo ladies )

 

If I'm not mistaken, you should be able to swap the input shaft, but you'll have to get a ford bellhousing and all too. Not sure about the output shaft though, you'll need to shorten your driveshaft anyway.
They have a good break down of it, parts list and all.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Repai...d_Services.htm

 

I got an engine out of an E-250. The hard line fits under the HPS intake and it looks and works stock, no rigging in heater hose. I'd do that if I were you.

 

So the flywheel I got is a 11"...so if I get an 11" clutch will it still work with my 96 t-45?

 

yep... as far as I can tell there's no reason it won't work. the flywheel is the same diameter overall (friction surface is a little bigger), the clutch fork is the same, only difference is really the clutch disc and the pressure plate.

You can get the correct clutch by specifying an 02 GT when you buy the parts.

FWIW, I have a 10.5" in my 3650 which came with an 11". The swap was exactly the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel (and a new TOB of course).

To our newest member: I'd honestly get the TFS 2v heads and port them a bit and drop in a big blower cam if you want 4v level power. You'll also get that power cheaper than a 4v and there is the HPS intake that will just bolt up with no plates and not **** up your mileage and it'll make more power than with plates. Aside from that it'll weigh less and there are longtubes sold for the application.

If you set it up at 8.5:1 you'll still have plenty of grunt before a centri blower or turbo spools up and if you go with a roots type or twin screw there's no such thing as lost low end really. If you don't plan on running over 15lbs of boost then keep the CR up around 9:1. No reason to lose the power at modest boost. If you want 16+lbs of boost then go 8.5:1.

If you have the cash I'd do a Procharger D1 or a Vortech T-trim blower at 15psi on a stage 2 cammed and ported TFS headed 2v with a HPS intake. Figure 500+hp shouldn't be really hard to get to with such a combo. Use a shot of nitrous if you want any more power than that.

Thanks for your service. Stay safe.

 

Thanks for the advice, If I have to pull the intake off again, I'll probably pick one up and swap it out. But as of now I just put it all back together and finished plumbing up the fuel rails.

 

Bought a nice lil 1 ton cherry picker.. next month might start getting the bare essentials.. ie intake..
Is the something I should condition this engine's oil with while it is sitting?

 

nope

 

looking into forged rotating assemblies. i came across mod max and they have a full assembly for $1360 shipped and balanced. keith black forged 10cc dished pistons, modmax forged 4340 h-beam rods with arp 2000 bolts, piston pins, modmax plasma moly file fit rings and king high performance rod and main bearings and ill use the stock crank. yall think this setup will support a turbo kit making no more than 600hp? they also offer to internally balance everything for an additional $250, is that a good price or should i take it somewhere and get that done? since im going turbo should i go for an even lower compression than 10cc, say 17cc dished pistons maybe?

 

dish size contributes to compression ratio, it does not establish it.

What CR do you want?

 

I'm not having any luck getting rid of the car with the blower on it so I'm going to try to put it back to NA and see how that goes (especially since I can drive it NA right away).

So I'm looking to one of you to TRADE intake setups with me. NA for Blower. I would only take a ******' nasty loss like this for you choads so take advantage of it while you can. After the car goes back to NA I'm sellin it for 10K flat and that's that.

Blower kit comes with:
2000 L Eaton, upper plenum, lower intake, midplate, water-air intercooler, 2 core sequential HE, all braided lines and fittings, intercooler pump, intercooler reservoir, Lightning Alternator, Alternator harness pigtail, F-150 throttle cable, twin bore TB, TB elbow, 90MM L MAF, 42lbs injectors, Alky-Control Water-Methanol injection kit (complete), my intake piping (such as it is), crank damper, lower boost pulley, pulley bridge, lower boost pulley-crank pulley flange (very hard to find part), aeromotive Lightning fuel rail setup (ready to bolt up) with braided lines, fuel rail pressure sensor adapter block. I know there's more in there I'm forgetting but you'll get it all.

It will bolt in for the most part to any car or truck with a 5.4L 2v PI motor in it. You'll have to make a bracket or two and figure out how to integrate it into your existing 5.4L 2v setup which shouldn't be too hard since I did it once already.

What I require:
HPS 5.4L Hardball'r intake manifold
70mm Throttle body
inlet piping/CAI of some sort (stock or aftermarket, don't care)
02+ GT MAF
30lbs injectors.

I'm asking for about 1400 bucks worth of stuff if you were to buy it new. I'm giving over 2700 dollars in parts.

Think of it as a complete intake swap. I know it'll cost about 200 bucks total to ship all the stuff for the blower setup, we can each split the other's shipping cost or whatever. We'll work that out later.

 

Red how much HP would that lightning combo make with ported heads/cams?

I have everything you want and am very interested...

 

depends heavily on the specific heads and cams. I'll do you up a sim if you want. With my heads and cams I was expecting about 435/530 on 8lbs with it.

 

Red: Ported heads (i dunno around stage 2? lol)

Custom cams:

duration at .050 is 250 intake 246 exhaust
lobe lift .5450 intake .5450 exhaust
LSA is 110.00

Duration @ .006 tappet lift intake 285 exhaust is 281

Valve timing open close
int: 15 btdc 55 abdc
@ .050 exh: 53 bbdc 13 atdc



Fully built engine:manley everything, I will get the smallest pulley I can if I pick up the setup, so however much boost that is.

 

The cams aren't ideal for the blower but they're way better than stock. Figure you're going to need every bit of a 500hp fuel system backing up the rails with a +8lbs lower pulley upgrade (15-16psi). I'll include some extra -8AN 90deg fittings fittings for you and some extra -8 hose. I'll need whatever fuel rail setup you have.

You wanna do this? You'll have the first 500+hp lightning stang I know of.

With 16lbs and your cams and heads, I'm going to lay down a bet of 510/620.

 

i have the 8lb lower on my setup it peaked at 19psi on the dyno,it made 500lbtrq at 2000rpm

 

whatever would be best for a turbo lol. its going to be a DD so nothing crazy like 30psi. probably around 10-15psi maybe. i want 450+ hp.

 

9:1 cr would be my guess.....

 

thanks. with a 9:1 would it be atleast decent to drive NA for a while or is that bad for the engine?

 

My Illwill or Red, or anyone else that knows....
Do they make oversized 2V valves?


BTW Myillwill....check you pm's...

 

Im game buddy. What else am i going to need to do fuel system wise? I have a 255LBH pump and thats it right now

 

Yeah they do. I got mine from these guys.

http://www.cushmanmotorsports.com/in...11_229_230_1_7

 

How do I know which ones to get Morgan?

How much would it help or hinder a PI swapped 5.4L with some Comp 278 bumpsticks?

 

nater: yes, call up Ferrea and ask about their 6000 series of stainless valves. PI heads unported with 278's probably not the ideal but a shitload better than a stock cam. Something closer to a 270 or a hitech stage 2 would probably be better... in fact a hitech would be the best with a stock PI head.

9:1 is plenty of compression to get enough grunt NA with a 5.4. It'll still blow away a 4.6.

 

just stopped by FTP for lunch and tj showed me a pile of stainless piping and collectors that will be a couple sets of LT's and x-pipes..... makes me all fuzzy inside to see that....

 

Okay so I have to go ahead and ask this since after searches and reading this thread for about year now, as well as other 5.4 swap threads I'm getting ancy.

So here's my question. For a road racing set-up, maybe some highway street racing pulls but definitely barely any drag strip use, would it be worth it to swap a 5.4 3v from the f-150s in the place of my 4.6 3v?

Or would the weight of the cast block not even be worth it for the gains I'd make it tq, since hp is the same at 300hp/360tq for the 5.4?

Or would I be better keeping the 4.6 all aluminum block and just getting a good H/C/I setup to keep that N/A power curve for the road courses.

I saw that the 5.4s make serious money from a good cam and a good intake/exhaust setup, but I'm just worried that the extra weight (especially in the front) would make my block of a car be even more of camaro with less displacement.

I want an N/A setup for the time being. I'm afraid with the cold *** weather and all of the hell my car goes through right now that a turbo/centrifugal sc would only make it even less of a driveable car in the winter due to the intercooler, piping, etc. that I'd have to worry about in the winter with below freezing temps. And a twin-screw doesn't appeal to me because that would put me with two 'stangs both with twin-screws (Termi is my garage queen) so I'd like to take a different route.

Any advice?

 

They list what they are in the description, like +1 mm oversize or stock. You dont really need the NPI or SVO valves, since they are for those kind of heads.

They couldn't hurt, but to really take advantage of em, you'd have to port the heads.

 

The reason they list the same HP is because they both use the same heads and cams.

Well it depends on how much money you want to throw at it.
I just checked MMR and they list their spyder intake for a 5.4 3v but that thing is like $2800
If you're that worried about weight... there's always the FGT block, I think it was $3500 last time I looked.

 

Well I've thought of that too, and doing a GT500 N/A swap and just using Hellion or Powerhouse's turbo kit in place on the factory SC.

My issues with the FGT block is that I don't know if the heads/accesories/etc. will work on it. Plus, if I went the route of starting with a fresh block I think I'd just get Saleen's 5.0 (not sold anymore) or MMRs 5.4 and go the route of high compression/forged internals.

I want to do a simple swap (not so simple I know, but simpler than building fresh) instead of building up a block.

It would be nice to have a 5.4 and the extra torque. I don't REALLY mind buying MMRs intake. But when I look at the cost of that and a 5.4 assembly I start leaning more towards just getting the 5.0 block and still having an all aluminum block with forged internals.

To me the idea of a simple 5.4 swap and then having the extra available torque seems more like a task I could complete at the moment instead of a full-built forged beast. That kinda kills the DD part of it for me right now.

 

Well.. the problem with the GT500 is there isnt really a N/A intake, short of sheetmetal or the '00R. The 4v heads aren't the same as the older cobra's ect.

I dont have any personal experience with it but from what I understand,, everything should bolt up to the FGT block, its still a mod motor. The only issue, depending on where you get it from, would be its set up for dry sump, and you have to machine the spot for the starter.

Well if you want to keep it a DD, and want to keep it simple. Just use the truck intake and whatever exhaust you can get to work. If you want more than that, cams and port work.