Yea, well I ousted the GT500 a long time ago because of it's ridiculous cost and no support for N/A short of expensive custom work or MMR.

Okay, so now my question is does anyone sell a k-member to swap in the 5.4 into an 08 GT? Or do I even need one? I know I'll probably need motor mounts too.

 

bolts up to stock mustang motor mounts on the stock k-member. use your mustang oil pan and pickup tube.

 

It should bolt up, using the mustang mounts, thats how the 2v is in any case. I cant tell you for sure since I havent really messed around with 3v's

 

Oh really? Well damn then it's even easier than I though.

My only big concern is the up front weight then. I guess that's what has made me hesitant all along. I mean all of the weight reduction I do, without fully stripping the interior, will equal what I gain in motor weight probably. Plus most of the weight reduction comes from the rear (rear seat, spare tire, lighter rear suspension etc.). Only a tubular k-member and tubular a-arms loses weight in the front.

 

This package may have been discussed on here several times before ... ???

http://shop.torktech.com/99-04gtsupe...ablower-1.aspx


I read this a little and thought this sounded interesting for some of you that may not have previously been made aware of it. Sounds like a fairly organized group of parts for a "starter package". I don't know that much yet about these newer blowers on the market these days. I am slowly however coming out of my "old-school" days.

Designed to use the Terminator-based package on a regular 4.6 2-V GT, I don't know how much they thought about the stock GT bottom-end holding up but the 5.4 with it's forged crank should stand a better chance. Those of us on a budget might could get away with the factory 5.4 crank and therefore only have to buy the better rods and pistons. I'm thinking that's what a lot of folks have done already anyway.

I do wish this company would pull an HPS move and cast the bottom intake assembly specifically for the 5.4 engine instead of having to go the adapter plate route.

Regardless ... it's another resource to ponder over, if nothing else.

 

I love the concept. But once again as stated it's the adapter plates instead of just a casted out solid piece.

Also, it feels like its been two months now since I've seen this, and still have yet to see the 3-valve adaptation part of the Gen 2 proceed any further so I really have no need for this.

I like the fact that they did create a simplistic (somewhat) design with just swapping the plates to match your intake.

 

Hey guys, looking to get my feet wet and start. Figure I'd buy a long block and take it from there. I plan to rebuild it, but I might use it if it has good compression for the time being.

He's looking for about 1250 shipped for the long block. Story is he pulled it out of a wrecked 02 navi that was in a fire with about 100k miles. He's including wiring harness + upper and lower intake as well as the complete longblock, which includes the DOHC heads.




Should I bite? It's not great looking but I'm not sure what its worth and it's a perfect price for me right now.

 

Funny story today.....

As we all know telling the wives how much we spend on our toys is kind of a no no.
But I figured since we said she got lasik ..I can have no problem doing my engine build...
I was mentioning to her that my next task was to buy the intake.. " how much are those?" Me > " Only about $700" Her > "only!!!!!"

LOL

she figured buying the engine was the expensive part... oh man.. guess I don't tell her about the new rims and tires I am in the process of purchasing... or the stuff needed in between like gaskets wires... all the small stuff lol
We love em though..(the woman)

 

Not a bad price shipped, I paid $900 shipped for my 2v.

I'd get him to pop a valve cover off and see if its sludged up. But as long as theres nothing serious like a spun bearing, it should be worth it, definitely if you had to buy it all seperately.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll ask him.

 

your 5.4 will need to be sourced from a 2004 or newer ford truck or van. The intake manifold will be expensive. No getting around that. Check out MMR for that.

As far as weight goes, if you're road racing then you'll end up with a similar setup to mine. I did some corner carving in mine. It's a little less than 100lbs extra in front usually. You put the battery in the trunk and you're half way there. Apart from that, you'll want a little stiffer sway bar. You should probably be able to use the same springs as you normally race on. I liked a little tiny bit stiffer on mine but that's for how I like mine to handle. In the rear is where you want to spend the money. Get the tubular control arms, adjustable 3rd link, and upgrade the PHB. This is all predicated on you having a race-able set of shocks/struts/springs already. If not, the car isn't ready for racing anyway.

Their adapter plates are on the sides of the common plenum, not on top of the head. If you were going to do adapter plates, that's a fine system for it. Allows 2v,3v and 4.6 or 5.4 without messing up the airflow. 5.4's get a little more runner length and 4.6's get a little less which is sub-optimal but not devastating on a blower car. I rather liked the design. I think they've lagged about 3 years getting the non-4.62v modular plates ready which is disappointing to say the least.


see my above comment. I initially wanted HPS to do that sort of a bolt-on runner arrangement but it wasn't workable with the existing manifold design.

Hell yeah you should bite. There's more than that in just parts on that thing. Little niggly parts that cost a zillion bucks each and there's always a **** pot full of them. Seriously though, that's a good price as long as the motor was pulled as a runner with no knocks or broken **** inside. (or galled cam journals, etc...)

Mine knows exactly... never even bitched a little bit.

 

mine doesn't understand how much car stuff costs. so i started my powdercoating bizz to pay for my fun projects...

 

Well I've gotten the stiffer sway bar. In the process of getting the rear fully setup. My spring setup is par to none for my personal likings. The shocks I'll probably switch out for Tokico D-specs when the money (and time) becomes available.

I guess the battery relocation is my next thing to add to the list. Then comes the decision on what motor-wise I want to do.

 

Mine is also trying to build hers, so she understands its kinda nice.

But on the other hand my mom never understood me when i lived at home and put every penny i ever made into previous cars.With not much to show from it.

Im on a tight budget and at times have very little money to eat out let alone spend on the car, but i added it up the other day out of bord'em and i have between 11,500-12,000 invested in this car not counting some of the Freebies and all the labor involved.Kind of a shocker when you think as to how much money that is and all that i have left that i can do to this car.Just now making my way to suspension,With all the new parts im throwing at the car on another note i still haven't had the time to get this thing fired up but have came to the conclusion that i have spark but im not 100% its sparking at the right time let alone the correct cylinder so i have to tear into the harness and double check the COP Conversion and make sure everything is correct..

Plugged in the Snap on Scanner and its showed that everything was in working order and even put noid lights to check the injector pulse. So im guessing the raw fuel smell is from the fuel not getting burned rather then the injector being stuck open or something fuel related like i thought.

 

I got more pics!

Look good?

 

looks ok. pull the oil pan and look there as well

 

It's been a while since I've chimed in here and I have a couple observations for you. My car is primarily a track ***** and I've been running with the 5.4 for two seasons now. I had the car pretty well sorted (suspension-wise) before doing the swap, and the car was real predictable. Once swapping, I did notice the extra weight up front was causing some more understeer. That has prompted me to tackle a couple areas now that I am in the off-season: First, I will relocate the battery to the trunk. That is 50-60 lbs off the nose. Second, I will be switching to the Steeda tubular swaybar... not only is it lighter, but the added roll stiffness will help control the added weight better. Some other weight-reduction related items include installing racing seats, and deleting the rear seats from the car.
Onto the good stuff about using the 5.4 on track... The added torque is just awesome! Most tracks I use 3rd gear everywhere, only going to 4th on long straights (with a 3.55:1 rear). Even hair-pin corners that used to require 2nd gear, I stay in 3rd and it has the torque to pull out nicely.

 

What body style do you have? I have yet to find anyone with an S197 with a 5.4 swap thats NOT for drag racing.

I have a pretty stiff front swaybar. The only one that was any better was the MMR (maybe). I planned on doing the battery relocation just for the added space in the engine bay, and also for some weight of the front. I know the torque would be pretty much orgasmic, but the whole weight issue is what holds me over.

I guess I could do it, try it out and worse comes to worse just throw the stock 4.6 back in and sell the 5.4 as a ready to go kit.

I already have 4:10s, which for most tracks I've found are more than enough. So the torque feel is already there. But I can definitely tell that its closer to 300 than the stock 360 of the 5.4s.

 

do the 5.4... I raced mine and the power was well worth the weight. A small change in suspension settings is all you need to really overcome the extra nose weight. Toss in some racing seats and you'll be about net-0 on the weight issue.

It's seriously not enough weight to justify killing the mod. 3v will breathe better than a 2v and make more power throughout the powerband than a 4.6 and a bunch more up top than a typical 2v.

EDIT: supercharger swap fell through. Still looking for someone that wants to swap their NA setup for my complete blower kit plus my methanol kit. Any of you guys want the blower? We can ship with greyhound and it won't even be nasty expensive. I'm talking straight trade... big upside for whoever.

 

woohooo...got my engine on my cherry picker finally...sitting in my garage... really didn't look it over cause it was too dark.
Loss of sleep begins.. I am a day dreamer lol..

 

so let's see if parting the car is worth it since so many have asked. So all the parts that are welded to the car sorta stay with it, then here's what I have and it only nets me 7500 if I sell them all for the prices below. So no, I'll never be parting it out. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though.

brakes: 400 front and rear
heads & cams: 800
bottom end: 1200
trans: 750
control arms: 300
steering wheel: 150
gauges and cluster: 550
blower kit: 1500
headers: 800
seats: 150
nitrous kit: 200
clutch/flywheel: 250
cc plates: 80
coil overs/springs/shocks/struts: 450

after that it's a body, wiring harness, ECU and fuel tank plus the PHB and TA are welded in where appropriate.

 

so let's see if parting the car is worth it since so many have asked. So all the parts that are welded to the car sorta stay with it, then here's what I have and it only nets me 7500 if I sell them all for the prices below. So no, I'll never be parting it out. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though.

brakes: 400 front and rear
heads & cams: 800
bottom end: 1200
trans: 750
control arms: 300
steering wheel: 150
gauges and cluster: 550
blower kit: 1500
headers: 800
seats: 150
nitrous kit: 200
clutch/flywheel: 250
cc plates: 80
coil overs/springs/shocks/struts: 450

after that it's a body, wiring harness, ECU and fuel tank plus the PHB and TA are welded in where appropriate.

 

PICK A COMBO AND GO WITH IT!

 

when it comes to fuel and everything that goes along with it, im ignorant. no idea what i would need for a 500hp car. im guessing new fuel rails, 60lb injectors, 1 or 2 ford gt fuel pumps. other than that i have no clue. im sure there are fittings and stuff i will need and anything else or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

www.lethalperformance.com go to their 2v mustang section and select fuel components. once you know your options, call them and ask. I'd consider the Fore hat and new lines from tank to rails, new rails, y-block, etc...

Cartech makes a Fuel Rail Pressure sensor adapter block that connects to the ends of -8ORB rails if the rail doesn't have a provision for it.

 

well today was a great day i now have 2 gt s with 5.4 swaps one 99 electric green auto with a 5.4 built lightning swap and my second which i fired up today is a 2002 sonic blue gt with a mostly stock 5.4 pi swap 5 speed thanks for all the posts on this topic

 

wow man, u have been busy

 

pics twin turbo? we must have pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

sorrry dont have camera for pics all my money is in my cars wouldnt even have a laptop if i dibnt need it to tune with got a buddy that did post a vid of my lightning swap gt on youtube called trent whippin the blue devil maybe i get someone to get yall some pics

 

The video twin mentioned:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVuG5U-Gmxs

Twin, you want another L powered stang? I'm wanting to go back to NA on mine.