So I have been aquiring more part for my car... since its a driver. =) I always wanted deep dish rims for the rear and a friend is totally upgrading and re building a black terminator so he hooked me up. 18x10.5's w nitto extreme 555's 335/35 r18 and 265/35r18 proxes up front. Looks really good but needs lowered some. Getting the irs and complete blower set up w all fuel system parts 60lbs injectors smaller pulleys pretty much all the goodies most guys buy for them cars 1st. On side note his car will be a 5.3 alum block big bore stroker and a fr1a procharger. Ill be doing some of the fab work on it I'm trying to get him to chase the ktos title the car will be bad and built to outrun busa's ans widebody supra's on a roll I'm not a fan of that but he is and I will make sure the car is safe. Just in case.... ok back to me I'm going to take advantage use the torktech set up. Hoping I can get the trickflows instead of porting a set of pi's but I'm hoping it will come together quick even if it sets me back a few mos to complete I'm headed in right direction to accomplish the car like I've always seen it to be for me... loving everyones builds keep it up

 

okay so ive ran into a problem today. the car wont start. odd thing is, every accessory works. windows, door locks, lights, radio. the whole nine yards. but not the starter. no click or nothing. makes no sound at all. any ideas? i tried by passing the safety switch but it still is the same thing. check the fuses under the hood, all are fine. thoughts? ooh yeah, it started yesterday.

 

Try all your battery cable connections and make sure they are snug, not corroded (to include ALL GROUNDS). Based on what you're saying, the next thing I'd move on to would be the neutral safety switch, if so equipped.

 

battery cables and corresponding grounds are good. car is a standard so no neutral safety.

 

You do have some sort of neutral safety switch but I couldn't tell you what to look for on these newer cars as I have never tore one apart (yet).

You might have a short in the starter itself. I'd like to suggest you pull it (with the solenoid also) and take it to AutoZone (or similar place) and see if they can run a test on it.

From my experiences (way back in the past) it is probably something simple and you're just overlooking checking it out. Please keep us informed about your results. Good Luck !!!

 

i had the same type of problem and needed a new ignition switch. its like $27 from autozone... might be worth a try if u try everything else

 

look to the positive batt cable on the drivers side engine bay. all the positives go into that junction, i knocked mine and hunters off working around there.

 

why does this thread have alot of posts! i've always wondered!

 

read it and you'll find out.

 

okay. battery cable are good. dont have a way to check the ignition switch. our floor jack crapped out so i cant get under the car to pull the starter. anyone know how to bypass the clutch safety switch? im down to the ignition switch, clutch safety, and starter.

 

isnt there a switch above the clutch pedal. i think it is a ground side switch but i could be wrong

 

I think the clutch safety switch might be the modern replacement for the neutral safety switch. Sounds like your troubleshooting is headed in the right direction.

Stay after it ... Please keep us informed. THANKS !!!

 

okay guys. so i pulled the steering column apart to check the ignition switch and all that jazz. its fine, checked the clutch switch, its good. finally got our floor jack to work. it was partially seized up. jacked the car up to find out its the starter. the ignition sense wire (the small one) was broken off, not the wire but the small stud it goes on was broken. im guessing this is the problem. im about to run to autozone and get another and ill let yall know if it fixes the problem. thanks for all of yalls help.

 

Joey = rockstar. Good work man. Showing all the tech help we give is based in reality.

Got some pics of my methanol tank and shelf setup (below). Finally finished getting it mounted and getting the securing strap riveted on. I used a gas can I already had, the tank level sensor and feed hose from the methanol kit and a slab of .080 aluminum plate that I already had. Added some copper strapping and pop rivets. I set the mounting plate up with a set of vertically opposed mounting flanges and I'll rivet that to the trunk later this week. I did some more work on my battery relocation and the relay panel. It's almost there. I got a c-note as birthday money which will buy the bulk of the rest of the fittings and hoses I need to finish the thing off. Still need a L crank balancer and an intercooler pump. Those seem to be hard to come by. I've pulled a high flow 12v fan set from a server room which I'll hook to the intercooler if I can't manage to get it into direct airflow on the front of the car.

 

Nice. I especially enjoyed the commentary behind the camera

 

just an update, i got the motor apart, crank looks good, but i just got a gt500 crank for 50 so it will be going in the motor, waiting to get the rod and pistons, im thinking of going higher comp. na motor for this car. atleast for now till the turbo goes on.

Ill keep you guys up to date as this comes along

 

i definately want long tubes for my swap any one have the link of where i can buy these also is there any other intake options going to hit market withen next couple months or is hps my only option for now. i have a complete 3v motor was going to swap over 2v heads but after reading some threads here do you guys think i should just swap the 3v in and make the changes to make it run with my 02 ecu

 

02mineralgraygt, look for tj@ftperformance's post. all his info for the headers is in there.

 

r3dn3ck you can get the ic pump all day long from blue oval performance,they sell a lot of **** on ebay,but that where i got mine brand new ford racing 89 bucks thats without the harness thought its like 100 with the harness,good luck on finishing it up,and one thing that i have noticed after tearing 4 ,5.4 sohc motors down. the balancers on all of them appear to be exactly the same, im not sure if they have a weight difference though? but if they dont ,look at you balancer and it should look kind of like a tri star.they all have the threads on the "stars" to bolt the crank pulley to the balancer,so you might already have the balancer you need

 

New pics below.

The12fast4u: The L balancer is unique as near as I can tell. It has a threaded section that sticks out above the balancer bolt that physically threads onto the stock lower blower drive pulley, I looked at my existing pulley and there's no way it's going to mate up with the boost pulley that I can see. They're only 50 bucks at Kragen but it's yet another 50 bucks. The option of a larger pulley from the aftermarket has been considered but I'm already running high compression and 8lbs and I'm pretty sure it'd have to be fed 110octane gas if I bump the boost up to 12lbs even with methanol and 3 core intercooler. I've been trying to not spend retail for the IC pump but it looks like I'll have to on that one. I also wanted a pump that flows a little bit more (12gpm) but no dice there. I have to blow about 120 bucks today on hoses and fittings but things are coming together. A few more parts and I'll go ahead and cut the hood or trade it off for a stock hood.

02mineral: There's not a solution for the 3v intake yet so I'd either go 2v or 4v. If you put 2K into your heads (TFS heads) then you've essentially done a 4v swap without doing a 4v swap as they flow right there with C heads out of the box. Otherwise, ported or unported 2v PI heads are probably going to be your best bet. HPS is the only intake available for the 2v 5.4. There is not another one in the works by any company that I'm aware of simply because we got HPS's out first and the market is fairly small compared to the 4.6 market. I was really lucky to get Bob to take the 5.4 intake project because of the small market.

Pics of the plumbing fiasco.

 

Note for those that care:

The stock fuel line appears to be of 5/16" ID which makes its AN size -5. The little silver dealie just at the end of the line (which I think is a check valve, sitting on my passenger size strut tower) does NOT come easily out of the line and has to be cut out if you want to do so. I've cut the stock PITA fuel rail coupler fitting off the end of the line and I'll be using a bit of standard fuel line and a -5AN to -6AN adapter to get the fuel to the pre-rail filter. Later on I'll put in a proper Y block but for now I'm using a -6AN tee fitting to split the fuel between the rails.

A note for those doing fuel lines... pay attention to ORB vs NPT vs AN vs SAE threads. None of them are compatible and you can end up with a lot of useless fittings if you buy without knowing what all of them are. ORB is O-Ring Boss with straight cut threads (no taper like NPT).

 

also you can get a aeromotive fitting that snaps onto your metal line from the tank where you can use an from the metal line on. cost about 20 bucks and might make things alot easier.

 

what are u trying to accomplish with running new fuel lines?

 

r3dn3ck looking good though,i have a brand new mach 2 hood i couldnt bring my self to cutting it lol so i went with the stock hood.are you gonna cut yours or run the factory?

 

can you get me a part number? that'll make the whole thing stupid easy and increase flow. The stock check valve thingy is actually a restriction that I'd like to get rid of. I noticed that the rubber line had a neato little fitting but I couldn't tell what it was.

I had built lines for the old combo and I hate rubber fuel lines. Aside from that with the blower on it I'll need to maximize the fuel delivery and the stock rails and lines are incompatible and too small. Apart from all that... I like my fuel flow balanced rail to rail and there was no other way to accomplish all that. I actually have quite a bit of spare hose frags but in lengths that are not useful. Besides... it looks soooo purdy.

I'm off the idea of doing AN lines and fittings for the IC. Just going to say fugg it and use normal heater hose. I may put some braided covers over them for appearances sake though.

I'm looking for someone that wants a 00'R hood in true blue that has a stocker to swap. It'd be a shame to mess up such a nice looking hood and I'm a little worried about it flapping in the wind with a big-ol hole cut in it. It already flaps pretty good at speed, thus the hood pins.

 

i'll get you the number tonite when i get home.

 

From a little bit of measuring I believe the 3v will fit right under the stock Mustang hood. The 3v truck intake has a 75mm horizontal hole, i.e. the t.b. mounts pointing upwards. This is almost exactly the same size as the bottom of a Mustang plenum, you'd just need to make a ~1/2 thick plate to adapt the mounting holes and sit a Mustang plenum sideways just like normal. From what I measured the other night I believe that setup would be shorter than a 5.4 2v with adapter plates and a P.I. intake. Get some lockouts for the cams and just run the 2v computer. You can get plates to adapt 2v headers to 3v heads, but they do push the headers outwards a little so you'd need to have about 1/2" clearance on a 2v 5.4 to be able to use the headers on a 3v. Otherwise maybe the company making them for a 2v can just make a set with 3v flanges on them.

I'm doing the same 3v in a 2v swap in my truck, just haven't worked on it for a few months as I was busy elsewhere. Gonne get back on it now...

 

The mod motors are internally balanced, so the balancers have no "weights" like the 5.0 balancers. In other words you can use a 4.6 balancer on a 5.4, or vise versa, etc...

 

It looks purdy??

 

gettin a block from the12fast4u so i will be starting the build a little sooner than expected. i will be starting with just a block and he said it needs to be line honed to match all the mains. sounds like a good one to start with though. what do i need besides crank, rods, pistons, rings, 5.4 timing cover, timing chains, main bearings, rod bearings? since im gettin such a great deal on the block i might just splurge for a forged rotating assembly. havent really decided yet. it still needs to be an ultra budget build. any suggestions as to which parts to go with and what not is greatly appreciated . im excited as **** right now.