just curious what 1/4 mi time am i gonna be looking at with my b headed 5.4 4v with bolt ons and 3.73s and a five speed with dragradials? i wont be able to run til i get a tune and get the motor broke in so just tryin to get a rough estimate to tide me over

 

0.1 seconds @ eleventy miles an hour

 

What is the link for that intake.. I don't think i read that far ahead through the pages. Was there long tubes created for this setup? If so are allot of these setups also 98ish friendly?

r3d I am in the Omaha area in nebraska. I would rather a good quote if someone is familier with this install. I am a contractor lol.. I live offa the bid system.

I would most definatly like the proper setup that is still geared to a budget.. I am not looking to go all out like I was saying before.. but something that could be installed now won't set me one step backwards in lets say 2 years you know.

I can't tell you all how happy I am to see this thread still alive and being responded by the one who started it. When i began to read this and looked at dates.. one cannot think something like this is still going good.

Anyways the engine I was gonna get my hands on fell through.. on the same note the rims I was also going to purchase fell through. But thats 2 steps closer to saving to the engine build.

Anyways on a side note, I took my 4.6 auto to glenwood iowa this evening , Mid America Motorplex, did about 8 passes.. first 1 or 2 was not bad, then the next 2-3 more passes I was getting enuff grip and i really didn't start power breaking until afterwards..
1/8th mile
r/t .617 (lol lil slow tonight)
60' 2.224
330' 6.257
1/8th 9.537
mph 75.03

Not too bad I guess for what it is. I had beaten 2 other mustangs.. one was 05-09 GT, he was at about 9.92 I think, the other was a mach 1 with what sounded to be a power adder of sort from a distance.. i wanna say super charger, but he got 8.67 i think.
There was a 97 or 98 white cobra there that had also just a slight bit higher time.. i think about a 9.7ish... so all and all I am pretty happy.

Any useful info and specific links that can be bunched up for the build ( anyone have it on copy and paste yet? lol)

 

http://www.hiperformancesolutions.com/54.html

 

Welp all got my got my block/crank/TCover/rearmain cover all back today... i think i like this forged crank ;> even tho when i pulled the rods they rod bearings were shredded and the main bearings were shredded...but the crank just needed a polish ;> now i can order my bearings/rear main seal/timing kit 195$ for a 4.6 its 400+ WTF lol/PI heads/ and other misc parts that ill probaly find i didnt buy during the rebuild.

i think after all that i should have 95% of all i need im betting there will be several frustrated trips the sturdevants to find more parts i didnt think of buying


and Omaha if i get everything right on mine maybe if youed want me and a buddy when u get all the parts for the engine swap could come down help ya out...teach ya as we're doing it to so u can start working on ur own play toys i know i feel alot better when i do the work ;> no one else to blame when it breaks to lol.. but i need to tear my stang apart first next month so i know what comes out before engine and all other goodies go in ;>


btw just orded my forged hawksracing rods from TMD ;>

 

Just curiuos but why can you not use the stock intake that comes on the 5.4?? Is it only due to a hood problem or is it wiring issues??

 

It will never fit under the hood. The 5.4 intake has real long runners to promote good low end torque, and there is plenty of room under the hood of a truck for that intake. Plus the TB elbow goes in the wrong direction.

 

Well I had a setback on mine Friday....Got everything hooked up, and went to crank it....made about 1/4 rev and I heard CLANK!!!!!...Time to pull the motor back out and find out what happened...

 

if you get a 4v for the same price, do it. It's more complicated to install (just a little bit, not much) and a little more expensive to deal with in general but the power returns are phenomenal and it only gets better with more mods.

I'm betting on bottom 12's or top 11's on motor if you can plant the power and get the 60ft time right. So far the big problem has been spinning the tires too much which has netted ugly 60' times. It'll be a camaro killer that's for damned sure.

Omaha Stylee FTW! Big fan of Omaha's prodigal sons 311.

Put together a 5 year plan, then double it. That'll be reality. I'd start with a 2v and consider upgrading down the road to some ported 3v heads or TFS 2v heads. I'd stay off the 4v unless you get a screaming deal on the motor because cams and porting and pretty much everything costs too damned much. 2v and 3v heads are cheaper to deal with and 2v is a fully supported swap with a large community of support (like me). I won't ever bother with 4v or even 3v since TFS has their TW modular heads about to ship. I'll get those and have them ported till hell won't have it if I want more flow.

Yeah... most people abandon their threads. I wanted this to become a movement, not a project. It worked! I'm really excited to see more and more people taking up the torch and as long as people want to do the swap and want to talk about it I'll stick around on this thread (even when I get fed up I always come back, thanks to Dan and Tommy)

I'm working on a swap web site that's dedicated to telling you the exact HOW to do the swaps. The problem I'm having is, I've done exactly 1 myself and there's like 20 different permutations of the instructions based on what car is being started with so it's taking a LOT of time.

That's exactly how I got mine done. Had to work with folks on the boards to find someone that wouldn't be ripping me a new a-hole on price. Then I joined in and helped so I could learn it. I'll drive out to fuggin 'Brasky if I have to to make sure Omaha participates (actually still want to get a 5.4 meet-up at the white castle in St. Louis). It's really exciting to find out for real how easy the swap is and how little mechanical skill you really need to do it. If you can turn a wrench you can swap an engine.

Great news on the rods. I've had nothing but good reports from them.

Hood clearance is an impossibility, it's designed for max tq at low rpm and doesn't do well at higher rpm or for a car that's as light as a mustang and has traction problems. Switching intakes to the HPS helps stretch that power band out to really a comparable level to the stock 4.6 rpm band but with GOBS more power throughout the range without getting too silly on low rpm power.

Oil pan baffles, windage tray, broken starter ring on the flywheel. Just a few guesses.

 

Think timing could be off too?

 

Yep red not doing to bad and bad bad juju nate dont saying timing that could be costly....


my costs so far are.

PI Heads -250$
PI Intake/adapters/gaskets - 280$
Engine - 160$ and lots of broken knuckles
Head Gasket kit - 101$
TMD Rods - 326$
Head Bolts new - 45$
Rings - 60$
polish crank and hot tank engine - 100.75$
Comp Behives - 160$
8bolt flywheel - 105$
80mm MAF 24lb injectors - 100$
all new bearings - summit clevite hard rod bearings and standard clevite mains - 200$
timing kit - all new chains sprockets for crank new guides/tensioners/tensioner arms - 195$
rear main seal - 12$

Think thats about all ive ordered so far.....

To Come spending
Tune - on dyno - 400$ no matter if it takes 3 hrs or 3 weeks the guy said ;> excessive tuning up here in south dakota claim they own fastest red fox body twin turbo 5.4
Misc Parts/Peices - im gona factor 100-200$
beer - 100$
more broken knuckles - Priceless ;>


Pretty much hope to have her finished with just at 3grand spent on er

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8zMBi2saJ8

video of 4 of their turbo cars at i think an 1/8 mile track here in south dakota we dont have much for track choices ;> either MAM or Thunder Valley ;>


i dun think i wanna play with their camaro tho ;x

i dont know what bottom of the numbers are would that usualy be time on top speed on bottom?

 

Thanks for the 5.4 intake answers.. Now here is where I am at right now.. I have a good complete and running 5.4 2v from an 03.. I have complete P.I. heads with cams in my garage.. Can I and should I just use the heads that are on the 5.4 now or do i need to swap the P.I heads off the mustang on? If not all I need is the adp pllates and to swap accesseries and I should be good to go right?

 

As far as headers are concerned, has anyone considered just welding a set of 2v flanges onto a set of GT500 LT's?

 

you know, i never would have thought of that and im a 4v guy lol.

does anyone know what they did to make the 5.4 sit under the stock hood of the gt500s or how they got long tubes to fit? bc i thought the only header options i had were frpp shorties or stockers.

 

PI heads on 5.4 and mustang are the same ;> stick with ur 03s


and from what ive read i beleive in some application maybe gt500 they lowered the K frame or the mounting brackets and have enough cowl and they probaly have a little bigger belly in the front end of the gt500 for the LTs cause i doubt they would put the 5.4 in the gt500 and make it non work onable inside the car unlike use doing the swap who have to pull the engine just to remove a valve cover ;x

 

There are plenty of LT's available for GT500's. These are the ones I came across that made me ask the question above>
http://www.brothersperformance.com/c...oducts_id/4757
If they were outrageously expensive, I could understand why no one has tried them out yet. But they're the same price as most GT headers..

 

most likely the belly of the beast is modifed different from ours

 

how much do you think it would cost for an exhaust shop to modify 4.6 4v longtubes to accomodate the slightly wider 5.4 or would it even be possible.

some pics of the progress plus some of the car. more to come later on
http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn285/johnnysvt511

 

GT500 headers are for the S197 chassis and I dont think anyone on here has started/done a 5.4 swap on one, I would be curious how much clearance they have, header-wise.

 

if the heads on the 5.4 are PI heads (from a 2000 or newer truck) then use the heads that are on it and save the cost of the head changing kit. They're the same heads. If they're not PI, DEFINITELY swap the PI heads over and use the HPS intake if at all possible. If not, plates and accessory swap is mostly it. You'll still need the exhaust work done (spread the H-pipe out an inch and add 2" to the down tube on the passenger side.

Won't work. Clearance is MEGA tight to start with and each header is purpose built for the space available. The s917 chassis is way different underneath than a SN95.

At an average cost of 100 bucks an hour, it costs 1400-2800 bucks. Oddly enough brand new custom headers cost about that much.

Tommy... wassup with that header deal you're working on? Any luck?

I've seen many youtubes of 5.4 3v swaps into S917 but nothing dramatic. The GT500's have **** for clearance. Saw some LT's being put on on one of those... eeeek. Bloody knuckle heaven.


My car: Now with Hood Pins! I used pop rivets to attach them instead of those crappy sheet metal screws Ford supplies the kit with. Install is WAY cleaner with the rivets and they're stupid quick to drill out if I need to remove the plates (which I do because I forgot to pull the masking tape off the passenger side when I put the plate on and it looks hella ghey with blue tape sticking out from under it.)

Drilling holes:


Finis!

 

r3d how do i get pics to show up like that instead of goin through photobucket or somethin. i just want them to be on the page with my post

 

the jig for the headers should be done on wed. if so, i'll post some pics....

 

those are photobucket links. I use the tag. Photobucket even makes the links for you. It's great.

Illwill: excellent news. can't wait to see you succeed there.

switching between the saturn (single cam) and the mustang for errands around town lately. It's a little bit like switching from a pellet gun to a nuclear bomb. Nitrous kit is almost finished. Can't find my damned box of fittings. Issa pissin me off fer chur.

 

so is the jig gonna be for 4v headers also? arent you doin the 4v swap?

 

Anyone doing a swap in Pheonix, AZ ??? im out here working but im from the Kansas city area.

Just wondering it would be nice to meet up with someone since im working 72 hour weeks and only get one day off ( IM SUPER BORED )

 

to go back to the headers subject considering the GT500, Ford designed and built the s197 chassis around the idea of dropping in the 5.4. They knew that 'stangbangers have always been itching for a bigger motor(ie SVT Cobra versions '95R, '00R) and therefore wanted the 5.4 to SERVICABLY fit in the s197. keeping this in mind, the aftermarket has been able to work with Ford from day one to develop performance parts for the GT500. therefore, there are headers, intakes, and whatever for that application. seeing as how our app. is a considerably rare, the aftermarket is not going to have the asset to develop on, or the desire to as they don't see a potential for profit to develop products for this application.

 

the only diff on the 2v and 4v LT's is the flange to the head. so when the jig is made all that TJ will have to do is put a 2v or 4v flange on it.

 

sounds easy enough but im not sure if ill have as much clearance as 2v heads bc 4v heads are rediculously wide. also would i have enough room to put the LT's on before i set the motor in? bc its not impossible but damn near to get on the header bolts on a 4v with the motor in the car even with the 4.6.

 

just do like i did, put the motor in with trans bolted up. before you put anything on the motor up top, drop the k-member down about a foot and bolt the headers on. i can do it in 2 hours by myself no problem. but leave the trans crossmember bolts in halfway to give the trans the ability to tilt forward. then you can use the jack and lower it to where te bolts are right in front of you.....