Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
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Well, I just finished installing the new HPS intake, TF elbow & 75mm TB... fired right up and wow, what a difference in idle quality. Overall just a whole lot smoother than before. I took it for a little burn around the neighborhood and the new intake definately suits this combo better than the PI intake with adapter plates. Now it's time to throw the WB back on there and tweak in the MAF transfer function for the new combo. I plan to head back to the dyno soon for some "after" numbers.
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2000 Mustang GT - 5.4L Power
Comp XE270's, HPS Intake, TFS Elbow, 75mm TB
New Dyno #'s coming soon...
Originally Posted by Black Sunshine By the way, don't you fucking know that you can fucking cuss on this goddamn bitch all you motherfucking want? Fuck that asterisk and censoring bullshit. Cuss your happy ass off!
where did you guys, 4v guys to be specific, get your gasket kits and how much did you pay for them? ive been lookin all over and the only place that carries a 4v kit is mmr and they are $399. im sorry but im not payin that much for gaskets haha. any ideas?
Yeah I tried multiple combos. I will just redo it again. See what happens.
Something easy to try, this is how I found my miss... Pulling wires on coil packs didn't seem to make any difference in the idle so I was chasing vacuum leaks. Then went back to the coils again... Put the e-brake on, put a block in front of a tire, and put in in drive to load the engine. Then start pulling coil connectors one at a time and listen carefully for a change in the idle. I had 7 that made it very slightly rougher and one with no change, i.e. one bad coil pack. I then swapped it with the cylinder next door and repeated to rule out the injector or wiring, got the same result on the new cylinder so that coil pack will get replaced. Maybe you've already done this, if so disregard, but otherwise its an easy way to check them....
I don't think you have much left to gain in the exhaust, not where I'd put my money....
Thank you. That's 1 for save the money. (Think cutouts are worth bothering with... it'd not be for the sound... probably for use at the strip only)
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Originally Posted by TurboX2
edit: nevermind my coil pack question, found 1 thats bad. Called local Ford dealer and they said $106.47 each!!! I can get all 8 off ebay for ~$75 and have seen plenty of reviews that they work fine.... I'm used to dealer stuff being overpriced but damn.....
I have a bunch of them laying around. Want me to send you 3-4?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman97
Considering that big blocks usually use 3" pipe and 2.5" is fine for larger small blocks, I wouldn't waste the cash, unless you plan on going FI. Maybe 2.75" as a compromise but again, there are better places to use the cash.
That's a 2nd to the save the money camp. Your thoughts on cutouts? I'm definitely not going to change the piping. besides... it's sounding really badass right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboX2
I've *sorta* figured out my oil consumption that I've mentioned in past posts.... I put an oil separator on my pcv lines and after ~20 miles of driving I've got around 1/4" of oil in the bottom of the cup... Good to know my valve guides aren't bad like I thought but holy crap thats a lot of oil whipped up into the air. Anybody have a known cause for this other than just ohc engines have more motion under the valve covers??
This REALLY makes me wonder how much oil is puddled in my intake plenum......gonna have to keep looking for an aluminum PI intake. If anyone has one or sees one for sale would much appreciate the heads up....
the spinning cam lobes and the high level of vacuum present are the biggest contributors that I can see. The low pressure (vacuum) turns what already has a smallish droplet size into a very small droplet that's more stable in traversing the intake system until it smacks a wall and joins with the last droplet that did so. Reducing engine vacuum would help, so would a windage tray of sorts enclosing the cam. Neither is practical in my view.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JScottGT
Well, I just finished installing the new HPS intake, TF elbow & 75mm TB... fired right up and wow, what a difference in idle quality. Overall just a whole lot smoother than before. I took it for a little burn around the neighborhood and the new intake definately suits this combo better than the PI intake with adapter plates. Now it's time to throw the WB back on there and tweak in the MAF transfer function for the new combo. I plan to head back to the dyno soon for some "after" numbers.
w00t! congrats. Post up a new vid mang.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnySVT
where did you guys, 4v guys to be specific, get your gasket kits and how much did you pay for them? ive been lookin all over and the only place that carries a 4v kit is mmr and they are $399. im sorry but im not payin that much for gaskets haha. any ideas?
Kragen/Checker/Schucks auto parts... usually pretty cheap. Also check out SHM's site. They have a nice gasket and odds/ends selection in their engine parts section last I checked. You shouldn't need to replace all the gaskets unless they're all busternated or the o-rings have gotten all hard/cut.
Note to all: I had really really bad time with Fel-Pro's valve cover gaskets. They were a mega bitch to get to not leak. Once they're on they're fine but what a PITA.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
No, I don't think it would make much difference, if you need to know unhook the x for a dyno run sometime.
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I have a bunch of them laying around. Want me to send you 3-4?
I would have gladly paid you some for them, but ordered off ebay yesterday. Thanks anyway.
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the spinning cam lobes and the high level of vacuum present are the biggest contributors that I can see. The low pressure (vacuum) turns what already has a smallish droplet size into a very small droplet that's more stable in traversing the intake system until it smacks a wall and joins with the last droplet that did so. Reducing engine vacuum would help, so would a windage tray of sorts enclosing the cam. Neither is practical in my view.
I know an ohc engine should have more of an issue, just can't quantify how much is "normal" and how much might point to some other issue.... Might be possible to install a fine mesh baffle under the hole in the valve cover, don't think I'll go that far just yet though, I'll install a 2nd separator inline with the other first if I think I'm not getting enough out of the air.
if in good shape what gaskets can be reused? also can i reuse my headstuds? i dont remember if they can be on these engines bc i thought once you torque em down they stretch and cant be used again unless you over torque them the next time which might cause problems
Hey everybody, I have a question. I am putting my engine together and I have my HPS intake on. I put the 4.6 alternator on and tried to use the stock upper bracket fromn the 4.6 PI intake. Well, it doesn't fit. What have the other HPS users used for the upper alternator bracket?? Also, I saw I think JScottGT had an interference with the HPS intake bottom and a rib on the block in the valley. I had to grind down the rib on the block and grind off the lettering on the bottom of the intake to make it fit. This was when using Ford intake gaskets. Beware HPS intake users.
Hey everybody, I have a question. I am putting my engine together and I have my HPS intake on. I put the 4.6 alternator on and tried to use the stock upper bracket fromn the 4.6 PI intake. Well, it doesn't fit. What have the other HPS users used for the upper alternator bracket?? Also, I saw I think JScottGT had an interference with the HPS intake bottom and a rib on the block in the valley. I had to grind down the rib on the block and grind off the lettering on the bottom of the intake to make it fit. This was when using Ford intake gaskets. Beware HPS intake users.
on hunters(sleepingGT) the intake was like 1/4" from the rib and i had a couple of alt brakets from the dorman one i bought before.
if in good shape what gaskets can be reused? also can i reuse my headstuds? i dont remember if they can be on these engines bc i thought once you torque em down they stretch and cant be used again unless you over torque them the next time which might cause problems
intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, oil filter adapter gaskets... that's about it. Most of the rest should be replaced anyway once you do a teardown.
DO NOT reuse stock head bolts. They're TTY. I'd buy some ARP (and did) studs.
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Originally Posted by horspla2000
Hey everybody, I have a question. I am putting my engine together and I have my HPS intake on. I put the 4.6 alternator on and tried to use the stock upper bracket fromn the 4.6 PI intake. Well, it doesn't fit. What have the other HPS users used for the upper alternator bracket?? Also, I saw I think JScottGT had an interference with the HPS intake bottom and a rib on the block in the valley. I had to grind down the rib on the block and grind off the lettering on the bottom of the intake to make it fit. This was when using Ford intake gaskets. Beware HPS intake users.
I had no issue whatsoever with the ribs. My intake fit perfectly. You don't even really need the upper alternator bracket. I don't even have it equipped on the car... neither do a couple others.
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Originally Posted by myillwillinc
on hunters(sleepingGT) the intake was like 1/4" from the rib and i had a couple of alt brakets from the dorman one i bought before.
I think there's a variance year to year in how tall those ribs are. It seems like a 50/50 shot. It's not that big a deal though to take a grinder to it and knock 3mm down.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
thanks r3d! you've been a big help and always there to answer questions. im gonna be askin alot more soon bc i finally got all my money together and am gonna be ordering one of the shortblocks from kk and get my intake sent off to be widened and finally get this thing under way ha. btw i was out messin with the car earlier and i dont think ill need k member spacer since im using my stock intake. right now i have about three inches of clearance so i dont think i need them unless you guys think otherwise if its not necessarily a height clearance issue rather than on the side to clear the master cylinder?
where did you guys, 4v guys to be specific, get your gasket kits and how much did you pay for them? ive been lookin all over and the only place that carries a 4v kit is mmr and they are $399. im sorry but im not payin that much for gaskets haha. any ideas?
if your talking about head gaskets, i got a cometic set from sullivan performance for low 300s. maybe 320? All others were factory.
Just kidding... it was between $200-$220.
Ibane that is sexy....
how much of a cowl are you going to need for it... it looks pretty tall..
4"... and it still rubs. I need some k-member spacers, upto 1" i think. the guys that made my k-members dont make them, and told me i was dumb for wanting them, they said i should have told them so they could lower where the engine sits, ... i probably should have done that but then again it already sits so low. It would have made getting headers in there easier.
thanks r3d! you've been a big help and always there to answer questions. im gonna be askin alot more soon bc i finally got all my money together and am gonna be ordering one of the shortblocks from kk and get my intake sent off to be widened and finally get this thing under way ha. btw i was out messin with the car earlier and i dont think ill need k member spacer since im using my stock intake. right now i have about three inches of clearance so i dont think i need them unless you guys think otherwise if its not necessarily a height clearance issue rather than on the side to clear the master cylinder?
Master cylinder clearance will be an issue. You'll want .5" of added space or you'll get rub unless you use solid motor mounts and even then it'll probably rub the cam cover.
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Originally Posted by ibanezsvo
4"... and it still rubs. I need some k-member spacers, upto 1" i think. the guys that made my k-members dont make them, and told me i was dumb for wanting them, they said i should have told them so they could lower where the engine sits, ... i probably should have done that but then again it already sits so low. It would have made getting headers in there easier.
It's really hard to lower the engine position inside the k-member. There's a tiny little bit of clearance to the oil pan as it sits, even on aftermarket k's and if you drop it much then the steering rack ends up being dropped too low creating bumpsteer issues and other handling problems that require yet more parts to fix. It was an engineering hassle enough to make sure the k-member spacers wouldn't mess up anything and it won't with .5" of drop. At 1" drop you'll need some shims for the tranny mounts too or the tranny bracket will never sit right. You're also going to want adjustable upper control arms if you drop the k-member an inch or more so you can fix the pinion angle relative to the tranny output which will be fucked up a tad. You may get away without the pinion angle adjustment but when I was working with MM to get them to make them that was a big worry, especially since you can't package a "maybe".
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
if in good shape what gaskets can be reused? also can i reuse my headstuds? i dont remember if they can be on these engines bc i thought once you torque em down they stretch and cant be used again unless you over torque them the next time which might cause problems
if you're talking about the common plenum (the big empty box in the bottom) then RTV works great and is the intended method. If you're talking about the upper plenum mating surface to the intake, then a either fibre gasket or a light schmear of RTV will work. Most aftermarket plenums come with the fibre gasket. I had the shop use RTV on mine since it's damn near free.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
if you're talking about the common plenum (the big empty box in the bottom) then RTV works great and is the intended method. If you're talking about the upper plenum mating surface to the intake, then a either fibre gasket or a light schmear of RTV will work. Most aftermarket plenums come with the fibre gasket. I had the shop use RTV on mine since it's damn near free.
When I machined up my adapter plate for truck use I added a groove that accepts the gasket out of the stock intake, would have been a nice touch for HPS to add. maybe down the road....
edit: this is only the prototype drawing vs a picture but the groove matches the stock intake so the gasket can be moved over....
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I can get all 8 off ebay for ~$75 and have seen plenty of reviews that they work fine.... I'm used to dealer stuff being overpriced but damn.....
Good to know my valve guides aren't bad like I thought but holy crap thats a lot of oil whipped up into the air. Anybody have a known cause for this other than just ohc engines have more motion under the valve covers?? 
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