message to Bob relayed.

 

Thanks a bunch,
did tell you i recieved the timing cover? and tensionr?

 

got the exhaust finished. but when i drove it up the street it seemed to smoke alittle.

here is it idling after i put the flowmasters on:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWtcozyuSVU

 

I'm about at the point of taking the block to the machine shop, and I've got afew questions..

Does anybody know of a machine shop in NC thats got any experience with modulars? I talked to most of the local guys and they've never really built one, I think one has built a stock 4.6 but needless to say, not confidence inspiring. At this point, I'm looking at getting them to just do the basic machine work and some of the guys I know at the dealer to help me with the assembly of the bottom end. I'm not trying to ship it all cross country to get it built.

What are you guys doing for the side bolts on the Mains, just using stock replacements or what?

I've got head studs and I was considering the whole torque plate thing, since studs dont stress the block the same, does it really matter if I use a one or not, i'm sure its probably still a good idea but is it worth me having to make a torque plate

Any help would be appreciated

 

I had the exact same problem. Honestly it was cheaper and easier in the end to pay the 400 bucks round trip freight (www.freightquote.com... fill out, smile) to MMR than to take the block to 1 shop for cutting then another for assembly.

If you're planning on putting it together then:
can't help you on the machine shop.

YES on the tq plate bore & scuff. 70lbs of pull on 10 points per side is bound to twist the block just a teensy tiny bit. Yes modulars are a rigid *** block but it's just good practice to take all the precautions you can to make everything fit just perfect. I think Myillwill or someone got a set of plates. They're just the same as a 4.6 tq plate. If you have a junk pair of heads or some NPI heads you can cut a 3.6" hole through them and bango you have a set of perfect tq plates

Stock side bolts are fine but I did use a ARP main stud kit. MMR has upgraded side bolts available. Don't know how much good they could possibly do since that's not really a failure point you see in the 5.4's in the first place.

 

I'm just gonna get them to bore it local, I'll pick up a set of junk heads for the plates, I know where I can get a set.
I'll get them to do the basics, checking clearances, fitting rings ect.. should be the same regardless what kind of motor it is.
The motor was pretty much good when I pulled it apart, could still see the cross-hatch on the bore and the markings on the bearings. I was kinda pissed when I pulled it apart though, its already got a forged crank in it and I already bought one. Its a '99 and had PI heads on it too so yeah.. thanks Ford

The guys I'm gonna get to pretty much put it together for me, actually know something about modulars, stock but still.

I'm gonna look at it like this, by the time I ship it and pay them to build it, not to mention the money I've got in the parts, I should of just bought a forged short block

 

yeah...I had the same cost realization but I kinda knew it from the start... it's hard to save up 4 grand to drop all at once but it was easy to blow 500 here and 100 there.

 

thats the funny thing about hotrodding, a budget is a joke, becomes more of, how long till I save up enough for what I want.
I'm still putting off the cams and port work, and the intake of course. I'm planning on sending my heads to MMR for the stage 3 port, and picking up the valves and springs later. They're alittle cheaper. I looked a TEA and I cant tell if their prices are for a set, for for them to port yours.

 

Morgan, I cant recommend Pete at HED enough to do your machine and assy work. The man KNOWS HIS **** and is in denton NC(just down the road from you). Go to www.bigdyno.com He does a lot of writeups explaining **** in detail to where when you leave you know a lot more than you ever did about whatever subject he is talking about.
HIGHLY recommended, give him a call and tell him slither said to give him a buzz.

 

Thanks, hes like an hour and a half away, I'll drop him a line

 

I'm pretty sure their prices are for the service. They specify disassembly which is a step only needed on supplied heads. New heads would probably come bare. Their stage 3 port with a .550 lift cam worked well in the sim I just ran.

Bob replied. He's working out some timing questions to see if we can treat your case special. I'll know in the next couple days.

 

maybe one or two will come out the door ready in a week or two??????

 

that would seem to be reasonable but never know... he seems really happy so it's got to be good.

 

Here is what you need

 

awesome good to hear
ill be waiting

 

fat set of navigator heads:

http://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=989681

badass deal on a 3v
http://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1003382

badass deal on a 2v
http://corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=988407

 

After reading through most of this thread (that toook a couple days) I'm in! I found a potential donor engine on craigslist and I'm going to look at it this weekend. It's a 1997 5.4 2V longblock with 70k out of an E350 for $450. As long as everything looks okay, I will pick it up and start the teardown & inspection. I know the 97's had the forged crank, and I will probably replace the connecting rods and bearings. This is destined for a N/A setup so I dont need to go too crazy with all the forged internals. I will then swap over my heads & cams (Crane HR-218/550-2-16) and reuse my stock intake with adapter plates for now.

r3dn3ck: I know somewhere buried in this thread you gave some part numbers for replacement bearings. Can you provide them again?

 

SWEET!!!

Great to have you aboard!

Sounds like you have some good componets to start with! While you have those heads off, fresh'en them up. Polish the ports alittle, lap the valves,...you know...have some fun!

Welcome

 

FEM-8-7250CH Rod bearing
FEM-148M Main Bearing

Or

CLE-MS2007H Main
CLE-CB1442HK Rod

Pretty much those are your only choices for H-series. I wouldn't bother with stock replacement... performance is worth the money.

 

Has anybody tried midlength headers like the Bassani's or the JBA's to see if they would fit the 5.4 2v swap?

 

not yet... got some?

 

No I was just wondering if these would fit easier or with less modification.

 

You dont still have that info about which LT headers fit what side do you?

 

I was just wondering what the RPM limit is with a stock rotating assembly. Will I be able to spin the engine safely to 6k RPM?
The Cams I have peak at 5800 on a 4.6... so with more cubes, that should shift down a bit. But I dont want to be limited to like 5200 with the stock internals. I am not opposed to upgrading to stronger connecting rods. I just dont see the need if the Lightning owners run the same sintered forged rods with no issues at 400-500 HP. I dont plan to run N2O or go s/c.

 

I currently have an 02 GT with pretty much all the bolt ons pullies BBK long tubes TB plenium cold air ect ect

I also have a set of modular powerhouse 2.5 heads and VT stage 1 cams I also have a tublar K member and stiffer springs

My main question is what headders are you guys using for the swap ? will my long tubes fit ? or will I have to use a shorty header ?

and the rest is will all of my current mods transfer over

I have read about 10 pages of the thread but thought it easier to just ask and get it over with

TIA for your help

 

Lightnings have powered metal rods. The cast crank and hyper pistons should be fine (if you aren't stupid) but the rods should be replaced since that's the weak point.

 

I know... I was being facetious.

BBK driver side, flowtech passenger is all I got via rumor but I'm starting the LT project with another company so we should have something pretty rapidly.

BBK's seem to be the best option for the time being. They're going to take a couple hundred bucks to your local exhaust shop to get them chopped down just right. you'll want the motor in the car to get final fitment.

You can rev it 5800 or 6k but much higher is no bwaynoh IMO. what cams are you running? Do you have ported heads?


I used FRPP shorties for the time being. Going to longtubes from <secret>. Right after mine get made <secret> will bring them out for retail. In the meantime use your BBK's and have the passenger side modded. DO NOT bother with shorties. You already have the longtubes and they're really important to final power production. The rest of your stuff will transfer right over. I wouldn't use the underdrive pullies. It's not worth the miniscule gain you get.

Your k-member will make the longtube install a lot easier.

 

Cool, thanks At the very least I am going to be replacing bearings.

I am running the Crane Z-Cam HR-218/550-2-16. They advertise 0.550 lift on intake/exhaust and a split duration of 218 intake & 228 exhaust (@0.050 lift) all on a LSA of 116*. They are similar to the Comp 262AH, only with slightly less duration.
I really liked this cam as they dont show any drop in hp/torque along the curve like the larger profiles show and it has an idle friendly LSA. They are worth +55hp & +50 ft-lb @ 5800 (hp peak). The hp peak is shifted from 4900 to 5800 with a 40 hp peak to peak gain. There is only a 10ft-lb peak to peak torque increase, but it shifted the torque curve up in the rev range by 600 rpm.
I figure with the torque curve already provided with the 5.4, this cam should be very well suited to even it out a bit. Plus allow for power to be made up to where I will set the rev limiter at 5800-5900 RPM.

Once everything is installed I plan to have it dyno tuned with 24# injectors so I dont lean out too much at the upper rev range.

 

so the driverside will fit without problem or modification ?
what has to happen to the passenger side header to make it fit ?
Know of any pictures of said modification ?

and what kind of power am I looking at from the 4.6 to 5.4
I am currently making 315ish ( at the wheels ) with my current setup

 

Hate to say it but I don't think that cam is gunna make you happy with how it'll deliver the power. It's still biased to tq production on an engine that's naturally already a tq MONSTER. There's not enough duration to pick up the peak tq rpm into the 4000rpm+ area and thus total hp will suffer (it'll still be really fast though... just not as fast). Remember you're stepping up to a longer stroke which requires more air so a little more duration is appropraite. I use the XE270 and the idle is almost like stock with a proper tune. I can help you find a grind that's right for you if you're at all interested in that. The 5.4 drops every point on the power curve by 1000rpm so if you peak tq now at 4800 rpm, you'll probably peak tq at 3800 on the 5.4. More cam will stretch that out a bit. I'd use 30lb injectors.


From what I understand you have to chop about 3/4 of an inch or so off the primaries where they exit the flanges. that brings the whole pack of tubes away from the frame rail. The driver side should fit. On flowtechs the driver side hits the steering linkage.

If you retain the longtubes and you're making 315 now, I'd stare real had at a new set of 32lb injectors and plan on 340rwhp if everything else is set for it.