Just about half or so of us are doing NA builds. We're all taking them to different levels too. My shortblock is an anvil intended for continual power upgrades. We all gotta start somewhere...

2v just ain't gunna deliver 450+rwhp NA. There's just not a prayer of that happening on anything on the PI casting. A new casting would be helpful in allowing us to upsize the valves and straighten the bends and then we could get the 300+cfm we'd need.

JLP has a XR head that combined with a .1" overbore on the block and 1.94" intake valves is rumored to have flowed 240cfm or better. Such large overbore's don't lend themselves well to street driven engines from all the advice I've been given. The XR head or their Stage 4 head would be a good starting point

Stroking and boring it to the full 6L would be great with the 4v heads but on a 2v you should stick to larger bore and work the heads in line with the bore size. Piston speeds are pretty high as they sit. Adding stroke is going to add cubes and tq but it's not going to help HP production.

We've had to start from nothing... no intakes, no headers, no 5.4 spec cams, nothing. So we've spec'd everything so far and gotten the parts made that we could and now it's up to the true hot-rodders to take the next step, then the companies in the aftermarket will follow suit.

Mine is .020 overbore, head/cam/intake, raised compression, and getting headers shortly. I'd definitely call mine and Myillwillinc's build-ups rather than swaps. Several of the others are building as well.

Keep in mind this is but one of the several threads I have going around the stang forums on the subject. I'm working with enthusiasts all over the world (yep... other countries too) and several aftermarket companies to make 5.4 performance something other than a term of endearment for 4v motors.

depends on the year of the block... 25lbs heavier for 01 and earlier, 50lbs for 02-03 NVH blocks.

yep... if you drop the k-member and arms and springs you should save about 60lbs off the front end which brings you back to normal. My car handles no differently with the 5.4 than the 4.6 that's attributable to front end weight.

 

LOL, my vote is leave the blowers alone on the 2v 5.4's You guys will not beleave the power I made on a FRIGGIN 75 shot yesterday and STILL untuned!

Without further waiting, 371whp and 495rwtq ON A 75 SHOT! This was a standard dyno, corrected and not the mustang dyno I had used last time. Talk about loving the high comp! I started getting clutch slip with the 75 shot(very minor) but decided to go for the 175 shot and blew through the clutch badly resulting in 450whp and 528wtq. Thats a spec stage 2+ in the car now. On the gas, the n20 hits So hard its rediculous. The engine loved it though, just couldnt get the power to transfer to the wheels. Going by the initial numbers, Id say on a 200 shot(like i wanted, didnt have the jets for) is making in the neighborhood of 575 flywheel hp and 700 flywheel tq! Should make about 475whp/650wtq if what I have seen hold up so far. BUT thats with longtubes, I think I have seen just what the stock manifolds will flow at there peak.

How about that for all the ******* neysayers?

 

W00T. Single = rock star. Thems impressive numbers from a 75 cuz DAMN!.

500rwtq on a 75 shot.... I just filled the cup.

 

I have a 97 block so +25lbs for it and -28 for kmember and another 40 for control arms and coil overs I should still be lighter than a stock gt. Throw the turbo on and i'm right back to stock with a whole lot more power. It's all coming together now, I'm getting close to dropping motor in, still need intake, I'm going to wait till very last minute for HPS intake otherwise i may just go with the Victor JR and adapter plates. I bought pacesetter shorty headers to cut up and turn around for turbo manifolds. I will post pics soon on what had to be modified to make them fit, they are the truck style headers.

Oh and as for the GMS parts I used, the lower control arms fit perfect with QA1 kmember and the GMS coil over kit worked fine too, no problems here. I went with the two gms parts because of price and the QA1 coils dont work with stock struts.

 

Im really thinking hard about going the longtube route myself. Honestly, I think they are the biggest resriction on these cars.
FWIW, the nitrous moved my tq peak and power peak close to 1000rpms further to the right woohoo, so on the gas it seems shifting at 5500 is about where I wanna be which is perfect.
Also, jacked the car up today and threw on the prostars. Trying to set up a run with a cammed Z vs me, motor to motor. Should be interesting as the car is unbeleavably strong on motor, even at 10.2 a/f and no timing. I dont see making 300whp as being an issue with stock heads, cams and intake and ALL the boltons. Id wager with a spoton tune with what I have now it will go 290whp atleast(made 271 untuned yesterday), few more boltons and I should easily knockout 300 to the tires

 

what boltons do u have?

 

Don't worry about piston speeds!
There are some dummies out there that just love to post and they will just about post anything to seem educated.
I would like to remind everyone about the "piston speed" issue! Al Pippito runs a 5.4l DOHC N/A and I have heard his shift points are around 8800rpm's
If that's not true, then lets say 7000rpm's or 6000rpm's! Either way I will never see that with my 5.4l 2v. Maybe 5000rpm's for me.
How about the Ford GT? It has a 7000rpm red line.

Piston speeds can be calculated and on paper it seems rediculous, but with todays technology compared to the old "know hows" and "what we knows" engine builders, piston speeds are not going to be an issue with the 5.4l SOHC or DOHC.

ShaggyGT, Welcome to the site! Stick around, you will get the truth here.

 

I think the whole piston speed debate really detracts from the core issue of selecting an appropriate RPM range for the use case. It also brings back the discussion that dyno numbers are not what you build the engine for, track times are. Dynos are for tuning, ET's are for comparing.

Al's habit of winding up his 5.4's to 8k+ is what you'd expect from Al... he drag races and he doesn't mind pulling a motor apart. He also runs engines that would put most of us into bankruptcy. Some of the larger displacement big block engines have strokes in the 4.1" or better range and they regularly run to 9K rpm in drag cars. And you see we keep coming back to that point... race motors run rpm like that. I don't think one of us is building a legit race engine... most of them I think are just anvils.

I think single found shaggy's solution to 450rwhp though. Drop a 150-175shot on your decently built (or even stockish) 5.4 and have at it.

 

75mm tb, plenum and drop in filter

It could really use smoothed out plenum, short runner intake(cut and epoxied PI might work, Im working on that now) and a tune and I think 300whp is attainable. Longtubes and a real intake is what I would really like to add.

R3d, I think the 150-175 shot is too high for 450whp. I made right at 450whp with the badly slipping clutch with the 150 or either 175 jets LOL

 

I was figuring your raised compression may have had something to do with that. Now stop it ...your gettin' me all excited.

 

I think the higher comp has a LOT to do with it. I think the 2v heads love higher comp, which is why a PI swapped 96-98gt picks up so much. Id be willing to bet its atleast 20-30whp diff from 9.5:1 to 11.2:1. Some cars dont seem to respond as well with higher comp, these engines do. I can get the hp numbers to read kinda-sorta close to where I want and keep the clutch from slipping by hitting the nitrous at a much higher rpm. Id be willing to bet I bet i can hit damn near 475 like it sits by hitting the 175 shot at 4500rpms instead of 3K as thats really where the clutch slip was so apparent. I can tell you this, it will take a HELL OF A CLUTCH to hold a 2v 5.4 tq on the gas at such a low rpm. The flywheel just aint spinning fast enough to stay matted to the plate at that low of rpm since its such an instant hit. It blows through my spec 2+ like it aint shyte

 

The block isn't the only thing heavier, the longer stroke crank is heavier, and the longer rods are heavier. I'd guess maybe 50-60 heavier with the early blocks, more with the later blocks.


If you have a pressure plate with centrifical weights it won't hold big torque at lower rpm, had the same problem back when I ran a turbo car. You need something that engages fully, not with rpm. Just stay away from sintered iron disks unless you like light-switch clutches and **** drivability....

 

The Vortech is the way I am going so maybe I can sell the lighting setup and recoup a few bucks But I will keep the #42 injectors .
So a couple of questions I ordered my intake spacers today but will all the front acc drive stuff swap and can I use the vortech mounts etc..

 

It has no weights, I might order a spec 4 or 5 PP (depending on pedal feel) and leave the 2+ disk in

 

just to tease you guys........

this will be installed this weekend i hope...

 

Im still running my stock intank pump!
But I have a fuel cell, my stock supra pump(650whp capable) and Aeromotive FPR just for the fuel side of the n20 setup

Looks good dude, dont forget to isolate it with rubber insulation as its a loud bastard without it, well all mine have been yours may be diff

 

from what i've heard all of them are noisey. i have the isulation parts.
i just want to do the fuel one time so i'm upgrading it all at once.

 

Just an FYI for everyone, awhile back we talked about the 5.4 timing chain install and how it doesn't have a gold link on each end like the 4.6L. I just bought a new set from Cloyes and it has two black links on one end and one black link on the other. I could see how it would be hard to see on a used set, but they are there.

 

Anyone know if the Mach 1 hood will clear 5.4L with 4.6 intake and adapter plates? Without cutting anything...

 

i just ordered a timing set from cloyes aswell... so ill respond when i get mine in to see if mine has it aswell...

 

i tried contacting them about the intake aswell... and i got no response...
its been 3 days....
so think i might have to buy some adapter plates as i have to have my car up and running no later then a month from now...

 

well as i'm nearing completion, i have the money for the intake stashed away for when the word comes out that it is ready to ship......

 

I have a jar of money burried in my back yard with everything i need for the project. But still no word on headers or intake.

 

No word is good word. Actually, Bob told me he should be spilling some news really soon. You must understand that all things take time and HPS can't go spilling the beans too early. We're basically there and it's down to the last minor details. At this point if you can wait, you should. If not, buy the cheap plates off ebay and get the intake later.

Headers... that's another story. I'd start by modding BBK's. I'll have more news on this next week.

 

He normally takes a few days minimum to get back. Any faster is pure luck.

 

well i need mine cause im leaving for Iraq soon... so if they are going to ship me the intake which would take 2 weeks to get here.. they would have to ship me the intake by like the 18th or so...

 

Iraq.. dammit. Doesn't anyone go somewhere else? What the hell is the draw of the desert. I'll ping Bob again on monday and let him know of your plight.

 

I got GREAT header news. Guys.. start saving them pennies. They're not gunna be cheap but OH F'n DAMN! you're gunna flip at who said yes to taking up the project. I can't say anything else right now but suffice it to say it's mega cool and there's likely to be more than 1 option in short order.

 

the long tubes better not be out before the intake...... i just might snap........





j/k, maybe the intake will be out in a couple weeks?

 

awesome thanks i would appreciate it..... as im going to be in need of a intake fast lol.. if i can get it shipped USPS priority to me ill have the car up and running probably like 2 weeks before i leave.... as long as my block gets here soon...