View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#3361
Woohoo. fired the car up tonight yay!
I took a few pics, Ill have to upload them tomm. I primed it for about 30 seconds, plugged the injectors back in(there may be a fuse you can pull to keep it from firing, but I didnt even look) and she fired right up. I dont even beleave the starter made a full revolution before it roared to life. Got a few things left to finish(exhaust, couple nuts that need tightening but I am just glad its running.
I took a few pics, Ill have to upload them tomm. I primed it for about 30 seconds, plugged the injectors back in(there may be a fuse you can pull to keep it from firing, but I didnt even look) and she fired right up. I dont even beleave the starter made a full revolution before it roared to life. Got a few things left to finish(exhaust, couple nuts that need tightening but I am just glad its running.
#3362
it's a little over .020 over bore. Stock is 3.551, .020 would be 3.571. Looks to be about .0035 over spec which isn't really far (would be fine for forged pistons) but I'd go ahead and have it bored the extra .010 for a total of .030 over or 3.581.
Don't trip though, you actually saved yourself some money. Pistons need to be bought before the machining is done so that the cylinders can be bored to have the proper clearances. Even if it's not where you want it, if you haven't bought your pistons yet just buy some .030 over slugs and send the pistons and the block to your machinist and have him torque plate bore and hone it for .030 over.
Don't trip though, you actually saved yourself some money. Pistons need to be bought before the machining is done so that the cylinders can be bored to have the proper clearances. Even if it's not where you want it, if you haven't bought your pistons yet just buy some .030 over slugs and send the pistons and the block to your machinist and have him torque plate bore and hone it for .030 over.
#3363
Woohoo. fired the car up tonight yay!
I took a few pics, Ill have to upload them tomm. I primed it for about 30 seconds, plugged the injectors back in(there may be a fuse you can pull to keep it from firing, but I didnt even look) and she fired right up. I dont even beleave the starter made a full revolution before it roared to life. Got a few things left to finish(exhaust, couple nuts that need tightening but I am just glad its running.
I took a few pics, Ill have to upload them tomm. I primed it for about 30 seconds, plugged the injectors back in(there may be a fuse you can pull to keep it from firing, but I didnt even look) and she fired right up. I dont even beleave the starter made a full revolution before it roared to life. Got a few things left to finish(exhaust, couple nuts that need tightening but I am just glad its running.
#3366
any word yet if anyone has tried a 2005 3v 5.4 swap into a 99-04?
i am still getting all the parts i need, but i am progressing. i am focusing on fixing the car as it was in a bad accident and i'm getting it ready for paint right now. i might post pics of the motor later.
austin
i am still getting all the parts i need, but i am progressing. i am focusing on fixing the car as it was in a bad accident and i'm getting it ready for paint right now. i might post pics of the motor later.
austin
#3368
what size pistons did you buy?
and tire, it's actually pretty easy to do a 3v into a 99-04 nowadays. You have to delete the cam phasers and figure out an intake though. Upside being you should end up able to use the new longtubes that are coming out for the 2v cars. Score! Start picking up the parts and get to it.
The intake will be an issue early on but I think it should be pretty easy to get a 3v adapter plate made while I nag HPS to make the 3v version of the 5.4 hardball'r. I'd like to see if the 3v version can peak tq up at 4800rpm so we can spin the 3v 5.4's up higher.
Assassinator, I need some help from you to get the 3v runner length and size nailed down and run some cam thoughts by you. PM me your digits when you have a sec.
and tire, it's actually pretty easy to do a 3v into a 99-04 nowadays. You have to delete the cam phasers and figure out an intake though. Upside being you should end up able to use the new longtubes that are coming out for the 2v cars. Score! Start picking up the parts and get to it.
The intake will be an issue early on but I think it should be pretty easy to get a 3v adapter plate made while I nag HPS to make the 3v version of the 5.4 hardball'r. I'd like to see if the 3v version can peak tq up at 4800rpm so we can spin the 3v 5.4's up higher.
Assassinator, I need some help from you to get the 3v runner length and size nailed down and run some cam thoughts by you. PM me your digits when you have a sec.
#3369
i asked Jim from VT witch is now http://www.cushmanmotorsports.com/
he is on his own now... he said that it was correct...
i bought .2 over
he is on his own now... he said that it was correct...
i bought .2 over
#3373
UPDATE:
Sorry, still havnt uploaded the pics.
I had to order a new quadrant today, the spec 2 had JUST slightly more peddle pressure and stripped the self adjuster teeth. I went ahead and got a steeda cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster. Sucks, but shouldnt have anymore clutch issues.
However, ever since I bought this car back(bought it back blown up) the new battery went dead after a few days of letting the engine run while troubleshooting the engine. Had the battery checked then and it was "fine". Then last night after letting the car warm all the way up again, turned it off and it was VERY sluggish starting. I am hoping just the alt is/has gone south and the engine running is what is draining the battery. Anyway, gotta work a lot the next 2 days, but should still be able to get the new parts in and hopefully carry it for a quick spin in a day or so.
FWIW, the car runs VERY rich at idle, good thing I didnt swap in the 24's LOL.
Oh and DAMN do these things rev fast. A simple blip of the throttle sends the tach needle to damn near 5K!
Sorry, still havnt uploaded the pics.
I had to order a new quadrant today, the spec 2 had JUST slightly more peddle pressure and stripped the self adjuster teeth. I went ahead and got a steeda cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster. Sucks, but shouldnt have anymore clutch issues.
However, ever since I bought this car back(bought it back blown up) the new battery went dead after a few days of letting the engine run while troubleshooting the engine. Had the battery checked then and it was "fine". Then last night after letting the car warm all the way up again, turned it off and it was VERY sluggish starting. I am hoping just the alt is/has gone south and the engine running is what is draining the battery. Anyway, gotta work a lot the next 2 days, but should still be able to get the new parts in and hopefully carry it for a quick spin in a day or so.
FWIW, the car runs VERY rich at idle, good thing I didnt swap in the 24's LOL.
Oh and DAMN do these things rev fast. A simple blip of the throttle sends the tach needle to damn near 5K!
#3379
Originally Posted by ShadyJ13
hey I am doing a 5.4 3v swap and had some questions. if you wouldn't mind giving me a call my mechanic and I would really appreciate it.
Jeremy
he is shadyj13 on stangnet.
i talked his mechanic through the small details it took.
hey I am doing a 5.4 3v swap and had some questions. if you wouldn't mind giving me a call my mechanic and I would really appreciate it.
Jeremy
he is shadyj13 on stangnet.
i talked his mechanic through the small details it took.
#3380
Another update damnit
The small issue with the clutch is turning out to be a royal PITA. The adj cable, quadrant and firewall adj didnt do squat, still not dissengaging fully. I am going to have a buddy come by tonight and push the clutch in for me so I can verify all is well on that end before removing the trans to see what the damn problem is. Ive done 30+ clutch changes and NEVER had a single problem. Guess you do it enough and your eventually gonna find one to mess with your head.
On a side note, the rings should be seated and the car should be ready to beat on when it comes out. And, Oh my the engine is QUIET and SMOOTH running, much smoother and quieter than the 4.6 ever was even when new. I can not wait(although I guess I have no choice) to drive this damn thing!
The small issue with the clutch is turning out to be a royal PITA. The adj cable, quadrant and firewall adj didnt do squat, still not dissengaging fully. I am going to have a buddy come by tonight and push the clutch in for me so I can verify all is well on that end before removing the trans to see what the damn problem is. Ive done 30+ clutch changes and NEVER had a single problem. Guess you do it enough and your eventually gonna find one to mess with your head.
On a side note, the rings should be seated and the car should be ready to beat on when it comes out. And, Oh my the engine is QUIET and SMOOTH running, much smoother and quieter than the 4.6 ever was even when new. I can not wait(although I guess I have no choice) to drive this damn thing!
#3383
you can use the navigator cover and that's about it for 4v. There's no part number you can order for the 2000 R' cover, which is just a navigator cover anyway. Everything will bolt up just like it used to with the 4.6. Your belt routing will change but it's no big deal. I'm sure we can help you find a routing diagram if needed. Make sure you get the correct tensioner with the cover.
#3384
Another update damnit
The small issue with the clutch is turning out to be a royal PITA. The adj cable, quadrant and firewall adj didnt do squat, still not dissengaging fully. I am going to have a buddy come by tonight and push the clutch in for me so I can verify all is well on that end before removing the trans to see what the damn problem is. Ive done 30+ clutch changes and NEVER had a single problem. Guess you do it enough and your eventually gonna find one to mess with your head.
On a side note, the rings should be seated and the car should be ready to beat on when it comes out. And, Oh my the engine is QUIET and SMOOTH running, much smoother and quieter than the 4.6 ever was even when new. I can not wait(although I guess I have no choice) to drive this damn thing!
The small issue with the clutch is turning out to be a royal PITA. The adj cable, quadrant and firewall adj didnt do squat, still not dissengaging fully. I am going to have a buddy come by tonight and push the clutch in for me so I can verify all is well on that end before removing the trans to see what the damn problem is. Ive done 30+ clutch changes and NEVER had a single problem. Guess you do it enough and your eventually gonna find one to mess with your head.
On a side note, the rings should be seated and the car should be ready to beat on when it comes out. And, Oh my the engine is QUIET and SMOOTH running, much smoother and quieter than the 4.6 ever was even when new. I can not wait(although I guess I have no choice) to drive this damn thing!
#3385
wondering has anyone bought one of these ....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
just wondering lol... i am thinking about buying one for fun... lol... but wished i had a dyno around so i could by like holy crap... it actually worked......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
just wondering lol... i am thinking about buying one for fun... lol... but wished i had a dyno around so i could by like holy crap... it actually worked......
Just unplug the crank trigger and it won't fire the injectors....
#3386
Tell me about it... hahahah. We found out my motor didn't have the reluctor wheel installed when it came back from MMR that way.
#3388
jep.
Funny story actually.
We got the motor in the car and ready to fire and it went ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh but no make the starty. I figured we knew it had fuel pressure, we knew it had spark, we knew it had voltage so the only thing that could really cause that was a failed cam sensor or a failed crank sensor.
Pulled the AC and the crank position sensor and stuck my pinky in the hole and felt nothing. So I stuck a screwdriver in and felt around for it installed backward... nothing. BURN. Looked in it with a flashlight and found zilch. I had 3 spares on hand so it wasn't a matter of the part but we had to pull the front cover, which includes popping the valve covers loose in the car. You can't pull them all the way off with the motor in the car, at least not easily. The whole affair was something of a MFPITA for the guys that were helping me out with the install.
Funny story actually.
We got the motor in the car and ready to fire and it went ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh but no make the starty. I figured we knew it had fuel pressure, we knew it had spark, we knew it had voltage so the only thing that could really cause that was a failed cam sensor or a failed crank sensor.
Pulled the AC and the crank position sensor and stuck my pinky in the hole and felt nothing. So I stuck a screwdriver in and felt around for it installed backward... nothing. BURN. Looked in it with a flashlight and found zilch. I had 3 spares on hand so it wasn't a matter of the part but we had to pull the front cover, which includes popping the valve covers loose in the car. You can't pull them all the way off with the motor in the car, at least not easily. The whole affair was something of a MFPITA for the guys that were helping me out with the install.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 01-11-2008 at 07:31 AM.
#3390
So, i just feel like bitching to someone... So now my **** wont be getting sent to me and i just wasted like 500$ getting my motor and hood shipped to my house in the states for the military to tell me ohh we cant ship it now....
So now i have to drop another 800$ to have it shipped over here....
God im so f'ing pissed.
So now i have to drop another 800$ to have it shipped over here....
God im so f'ing pissed.