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| Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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![]() ![]() Hey Fellas,Well, I have decided to replace my timing chaing guides. To see if it is the cause of the ticking noise coming from my engine. So I was wondering if anyone has any diagrams on how to do this. Just by lookin at the motor it dosent look like it would be all that hard to get to. So the question that I have: Do I need to remove the valve covers??? And do I need to remove the timing chain to do this repair? And any info or advice you guys have would really help. I really hope this is the cause of the ticking noise, and is not my cylinder like Ford said it was. Its coming from the passenger side front. I was going to get a second opinion till a guy at that part store brought said that it could be a timing guide going bad. Which is what I thought at first until I let Ford look at it. I highly doubt they took the timing cover off to check this since they only had it an hr or so. I hoping this is what it is, if not at least I will have new timing guides. If this fails then I will get the second opinion from my mechanic. Also if you could tell me what sockets sizes I would need so I can start gathering these all up now, rather than looking for them when I start the job. Might wait wait til next paycheck to buy part, but I want all the info I can get til then. LOL Almost forgot this is for a 2001 GT 4.6 sohc Thanks guys
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Last edited by TJeffer3 : 02-14-2008 at 05:00 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: GERMANLAND
Posts: 2,385
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maybe you should buy a haynes manual...that should clear up a lot of questions you have and you can have it next to you as your doing the job (quick reference guide)
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Yeah true, but I also want to know from you guys also, want to know if its a PITA to do. Im somewhat mechanically inclined. But if its going to be a pain then I would much rather someone else do it. LOL And the last part store I was in didnt have a manual. LOL. But I will check the other stores. Hey do you know how many guides there are? Just by lookin at some of the cam install pics it looks like there are possibly four. I will have to check with randy.
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Last edited by TJeffer3 : 02-14-2008 at 05:28 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: GERMANLAND
Posts: 2,385
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,485
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To be honest, my Haynes manual is only good for torque specs and that's it. And even then, it forgets to put some there. I personally prefer Chilton but if you have the cash, nothing beats the actual shop manual.
But from the way everything looks there, I don't see why you can't do it w/ the chains still on. Just remember to compress the tensioners and lock them w/ a pin before you put them back on. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Citizen
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Richmond Va.
Posts: 652
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Dont waste your money on a Haynes manual. This is a not a bad job to do if you have the tools to do the job with. Harmonic balancer puller is a must. Bolts should be torqued. Take a real close look at the what you have to take apart and feel comfortable about doing it. Remember if you get it apart and cant get it back together then it has to be towed somewhere, and they will charge you more because they got you over barrel.
Have you ever been in a motor before? Im not picking on you I just hate to see you mess up, maybe big time.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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No I havent been inside one before. Well right now Im going to way my options. Im goin to call around and see how much shops charge to fix it. If its only goin to save me 200 dollars or so then I will let them do it. I want to replace all tensioner and arms. That way I have all new parts. Trust me I will be weighting both options. LOL
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 581
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There is a stickey posted in this forum about replacing your cams yourself. Basically, you'll be doing that, except not actually removing the cam and replacing it.
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2003 10th Anniversary Cobra Convertible All Stock and staying that way... well maybe some pipes since it's so quiet..ahhhh! it's a sickness 1995 mustang GT vert - all black (almost back together) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 3
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oh, The ticking sound ford doesnt want you to know about....Hope it's not because of the crap connecting rods ford uses in the mustang....My 98 took a dive at 31,000 with no help from ford.....Do yourself a favor and check your fuel injectors by a pro...
Upon breaking my whole engine apart I had found many lacks in the 4.6 romeo engine....anything from lack of oiling to horrible cooling and the best.....compressed metal parts The mustang is supposed to be a performance car....not a grocery getter Dustin |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Why would the injectors be making a ticking noise??
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#12 (permalink) |
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5.4L in progress
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
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ive done the job quite a few times. u do need some special tools. the harmonic balencer puller. u will also need this special tool to keep the crank from moving, it slides right over the crank and the keyway. they say u need one for the cams also but i accomplished it with out the cam holder just used some zip ties to hold them from slipping. it is definetly a mechanically inclined job. i would pull the valve covers just to do the job right.. just incase the chain slips when u reliever the pressure.. just be carefull if the chain slips u probobly have to pull the whole assembly off, unless u get lucky and only slips a couple links. if u your somewhat mechanically intuned, i would def do the job yourself, its pretty pricey to have it done..
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#13 (permalink) |
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Avg Gt owner w/ 44in vert
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Try this.... http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4162707/tm.htm
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Cammed, boltons, csprings and 3.90's! [image]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u288/AirjustinsDeltaV/deltav3-1.jpg[/image] |
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