Best N/a Stang Possible
 

This is what im tryign to acheive. Over a period of time what would make the fastest N/A mustang? I already am getting 4.10's,LoudMouth Catback, o/r x-pipe, predator, steeda pullies, Springs,and a CAI I know one thing i could get would be LT headers (wich i plan on in the future) but what else? Just wondering what i could to with a stang with out nitrous or a blower

Highest ive seen is like 330rwhp. And dont forget cams and forged internals

Stroke it!

Or you can get heads

well fastest N/A mustang . . . your going to have to strip it down and build it into an all out race car, and plan on running 8's or better to make a claim like that.

fastest N/a 4.6L 2v, well you are a long way off, it's in the 10's

so what are you trying to achieve again?

cams are certainly in that parts pile somewhere...

I would say that, and lose some weight in the car with a tubular front suspension to even dream of hanging with anything like a cobra.

Is the car going to be a dedicated race car or daily driver?Think about using a forged 5.4 with ported and polished heads.An intake and exhaust that compliment the headwork will be necessary also.Now a weight loss program to lower the HP to weight ratio.

i was going to say something, but almost forgot that i have a 4V and this was about the 2V.

sorry. :(

alum block, 324 vt stroker big bore. ported and polished heads (fox lake or VT) custom cams or vt stage 2 or something. fox lake p51 intake.

dialy driver...best N/A with the STOCK engine...cus if i were to buy a new one i might as well blow it

Well honestly, you might as well blow it anyway. Just my opinion after spending too much to make a n/a car moderately quick. Just save the money for the blower man, you wont regret it. BUT, if you do wanna go N/a, pull out the check book. To get 300 rwhp, MOST people need longtubes, cams, and ported polished heads and some kind of intake upgrade, be it a bullitt, fox lake, accufab elbow...the list goes on. Oh, and did I mention its REALLY expensive...

yeah ...i guess but itll take so long to save up cus i owe abut 5 grand in my stang...then another 5 for a kenne belle....

Yes, but saving up for that will be a lot easier than spending 600 here for longtubes, 600 here for cams, 1800 here for head, and then going, man, all that money, I coulda had a blower by now, and then having to start over saving 5k for the blower. Pay the car off but save a little money while you do it, it will add up soon, trust me.

You want the fastest Naturally Aspirated stang? Get more cubes (stroke it bore it), get a more aggressive cam, port the hell out of... well... everything. Open up the intake and exhaust, work with the timing and cooling to keep it all in good working order. Beef up a T-56, and then strip the hell out of your car to get rid of every last ounce of dead weight. Stiffen up everything. Get rid of AC\powersteering\etc... Get tubular kmember, lightweight wheels..... wait actually, just go out and buy an FR500C (comes with cammer engine) and kick ass like those guys in the Grand Am Cup. if you've got a 5.0, get yourself a big cowl and stick in a 351 stroked up to like 438

its a daily driver though...and i think ill just take up the advise of others and save up for a blower

Your not gonna run much faster than 12.00 with a "street" car. My defintion of street is all creature comforts(A/C, PW PL TILT CRUISE STEREO ETC) Cars that are pushing 300rwhp and running in the 11's are NOT street cars, they are stripped down shells. The fastest 2V NA is Ken Bjonnes..10.83...but the race weight is around 2750. I keep trying to put up the video here but it won't work for some reason.


Adam

MMM, Kens car is sweet, and yes, its a good idea to just stick to a blower.

how did he get to that race weight!?!

Strip everything. EVERYTHING!!

I did some research and i decided to start savign for the HP Performance stage 1 twin turbo kit...so far have 700 bucks :D

blowers are fun

Yea, im going to save for a mongoose, hopefully Ill get it after Im done with college...lol 4 years wont hurt right?

im goin twin turbo...i saw some of the results!!! ...u can get over 700 rwhp on a nealry stock GT with the HP TT kit..

...with a shortblock, and fuel system, and transmission, and rear end...the list goes on. Dont expect to strap on a 7k dollar turbo kit and make 700 hp. Thats just the tip of the iceburg as they say. Research it a little more, and youll see the total cost approach the 20k dollar mark. Start saving the pennies.

jeesus...it says the kit comes w/ evrything u need....sigh...hope i hit the lottery then

Are you looking at the HP performance one? Those are bad ass. Ever check out www.inductionconcepts.com Their kits are expensive, but they are all stainless and quality kits.

hoy crap !!! thats hella pricey!

But they sure are nice. Awesome quality. Plus theyre designing their system around any K-member you want to use, except for stock. That's a definite plus to me. If I had the money, I'd get it with a MM k-member. For the money though, I'm gonna look into the MPH Paxton Mongoose kit or a 1.7 kb.

Where can I read about what he did? I'm currently blown but i'm thinking of rebuilding my engine so I can go past 6000 rpms safely and with power ( an article in some magazine about intakes said that ken's goes to 7500 ). There is nothing more annoying than the rev limiter.

Ive decided to go the best N/A ..street car possible (with comforts of one)...with in the next few montsh im going to buy : Modular P-51 Intake , Cams (i think i want to go stage 2, but i need springs and a tune so i dunno) and some Long tubes....and im prolly gonna do some wiegt reduction..rear seat delete..and i dunno what else besides jack and spare


And in the long run get Fox Lake stage 2 ported heads....and i was wondering if i did a front tubular suspension (get rid of K-member) how ould that be for daily driving?

Front tubular K-member suspension is perfectly fine for daily driver. Just go with QA1, MM, Griggs, PA, or AJE setups. If your going to do that you may as well get Tubular Control Arms, and coilovers for the front.

As far as the Fast N/A it sounds like your set on sticking with the 2V. It's not too bad a route to take with cams, P-51 intake , longtubes, tune etc. But again you're only going to be in the ballpark area of around 300rwhp. It'll make for a fun ride but that's a heck of a lot of money to be dropping for just ~300 hp.

Have you thought about doing a 4V headswap? It'd be unique (although 4V swap GT's are becoming more popular) and it would be moderately inexpensive. It's easy to pick up 4V heads nowadays because of people (including myself) upgrading to the 03/04 Cobra heads or FR500 heads and the like and selling the stock heads/intake manifold to offset the cost.

You could pick up everything needed for a 4V swap into your GT (minus the tune) for less then $1,000. And for the amount of money you're looking at dropping on a P-51 intake, Cams, longtubes (cost the same whether 2v/4v) You could probably get a set of 99/01 Cobra C Heads (Tumble port) ~ $400-500, Lincoln Aviator intake manifold (new take offs are around $350...junkyard for much less.), stock Mach 1 or 99/01 cams, longtubes, and port the heads and make close to 310rwhp.

Now if you bought some 4V cams, ported heads and intake, longtubes, pullies, tune you'd be near 350-360rwhp. So say you spent $3,000 just on these parts alone you'd make as much if not a little more then you would with a supercharged 2V....and that's with a N/A 4V motor. Throw on a $500 nitrous kit and you're looking at 460 rwhp and maybe 550+ lb feet of tq.

There's a ton of routes you can take man...just surf as many forums as you can. Study your options, research before you spend your money...and ask questions. Knowledge is power.

Hope that helps.
Philip K.

Hey thanks alot, that route does sound like a really nice one, i will definatley do some research on it..

No problem, just trying to get some options out there. There are a million ways to skin a cat, as are a hundred ways to make any car fast.

I think that having a balls out 2V n/a car is comendable. It's something that's difficult, but not impossible...and gratifying. Many unsuspecting LS1's STI's/ Evo's would never see the a$$ whoopin' coming.

To get you started (or anyone else that may be interested) here's the start of some legwork for you.

Start Here 98 4V heads on 98 gt

This is the get you started. A good point is made here. It may be better to purchase a crate motor...then sell your stock motor to offset cost. I'm not sure how mechanically sound you are, or if you'd have shop do the work. From the looks of what you're bolt on's would be...you'd be approaching the cost of a motor to put in your car. If you search around Junkyards and even the Corral parts classifieds

Swapping DOHC 4.6 into V6 convertible

(Similar to your situation...may be a good read...good links in thread)

5.4 L swap 2V or 4V

There is something to cook your noodle. While you have to go through the trouble of doing a motor swap....why not just go the 5.4L route? You could get 2V or 4V. A motor from a lincoln navigator (2000-2002) has great 4V heads, decent cams, and you could find a crate motor from a junkyard or something noooo problem. Now we're talking over 400 rwhp with just some nice bolt ons and decent heads and a tune. Throw on some nitrous and you could near 600 hp and 600+ lb feet of trq.

Al Papitto's Ford GT Aluminum Block race motor

Grab a six pack and a bucket of popcorn for that thread....it's a long one. Al is probably the current expert on all things Ford V8 DOHC. If you're serious about it he may be worth asking some questions about the swap. But he's a busy man.

Anyway, I hope that helps. It's not going to be a cakewalk. But it isn't difficult if you get your ducks in a row and do your research. Id suggest joining the Corral....or at least surfing alot. And find out as much as you can. And find a good tuner.

Philip K.

wow. my eyes hurt lol. now im not sure!!!! I really would rather just get 4v heads...but i dunno what i would need...but it seem easier, unless i "happen" upon a cobra engine

Like others have stated you need to do some work on the your block unless you are going to run low boost. I think its not worth the hassle to add a 4v head and if it was Im sure it would of been done by many stang owners already.

Just adding the 4V cylinder heads requires some other parts such as the front accessory cover, accessories, thermostat housings, all the plumbing, computer (to control IMRC) and ease of tuning, new exhaust manifolds ( 4V heads have a different port shape and bolt pattern then their 2V counterparts.) etc. etc.

But again, you're talking about dropping alot of money on bolt ons for your GT. And at 300rwhp you'd be close to maxing out the N/A capabilities on stock displacement, where as all out N/A 4.6L motors stock displacement are in the area of 360+rwhp. and a 5.4L application in the mid 400's.

Have you thought about just running nitrous? When set up and used properly nitrous is perfectly safe and very effective. Something to look into also.

But as the above post states if you are planning on running boost on any particular motor combination you need forged internals (8-Bolt Cobra crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings) and all the proper machine work. I'm not sure how the GT's are compared to the Cobra's...but the 4V loves compression even with boost. It is not uncommon to have Centri-blown 4V's run 10:1 compression on pump gas for the street. The most important thing with any motor combination is the Tune...make sure it's good.

Ugh...I'm so torn, I dunno what to do now! :mblah05:

Keep your stock 2v. Get cams and a 100 shot. You will have a mid to high 12 second car n/a that runs mid 11's at the track and you'll have money left over for gasoline.

stage 1 or 2 cams

I would do the VT stage 2's. Ported heads and the P51 are nice but kinda pricey for 30 additional hp.
Do some weight reduction like the k member and coil overs, dog bone, front sway bar, light weight battery for race season. Big power is great but you can go pretty darn fast in these cars with 275 rwhp. It's all a matter of setting up a good foundation to race. Traction, tune matching your gears, tires to your goals. You spend a little time and money on beefing up the rear end and some good suspension parts you will have much better results down the road when you make more power.

Ugh..but I also want lots o power...and i want now, and cheap lol...i dunno i think ill just save up for a blower...i do love that sound