Air/fuel gauge Question. Please help.
#1
04-19-2006, 04:47 PM
Air/fuel gauge Question. Please help.
I need some advice.
I have a 03 GT that's mostly stock and I've just installed a NX wet kit. I want to run a 100 shot spray but I'm concerned about the lean spike. What type of air/fuel system is the most accurate. Please keep in mind I don't know anything about air/fuel gauges and how they actually work
I've been reading and trying to learn but I need to make a decision. I won't test my system without ALL the safety devices installed. This is the last one I need.
Thanks,
Troy :banana:
I have a 03 GT that's mostly stock and I've just installed a NX wet kit. I want to run a 100 shot spray but I'm concerned about the lean spike. What type of air/fuel system is the most accurate. Please keep in mind I don't know anything about air/fuel gauges and how they actually work
I've been reading and trying to learn but I need to make a decision. I won't test my system without ALL the safety devices installed. This is the last one I need.Thanks,
Troy :banana:
#3
04-19-2006, 07:33 PM
Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
#4
04-19-2006, 08:21 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
Jeredan pretty much covered it. Get the car dyno tuned or else you'll end up riding your bike everywhere! Also, don't you want iridium plugs for nitrous and not copper??
#6
04-20-2006, 12:12 PM
Originally Posted by kcast
Dyno Jet makes the Wide band commander...great for A/F and datalogging, it also has a nitrous feature on it....
Thats what I had used on my dyno tune..Wide band for teh win
#8
04-26-2006, 04:14 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
Sorry to break the news to you but your engine is not a 302.....thats what it says in your sig. All 96-06 mustangs come with a 281ci Modular 4.6 engine.
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
The best thing to do would be to get it dynotuned. If you cannot do that then you can still protect it with safety devices. Generally with an NX 100 shot, you should put a bigger fuel pump on it. You can use either an SVT focus pump or an Aviator pump. The cost installed is around $200. If you dont have the money for that then you should AT LEAST put a Fuel Safety Switch on it. NX sells a good one for $50. This will keep your engine from running lean if the fuel pump cant supply enough fuel for the 100 shot.
The onlything you can do to help the leanspike is to use a longer nitrous line. Use a very short fuel line from the solenoid to the nozzle and use a much longer line for the nitrrous line from the solenoid to the nozzle. This should help some. I am using a 6 inch fuel line and a 2 foot nitrous line.
Make sure that you never install a CAI with the bend before the MAF. It screws up the A/F ratio on MOST cars.
The next thing you need is a window switch. You have copper plugs in it dont you?
Your reasoning on longer/shorter lines to me makes no sense at all. They are pressureised and going to the nozzle which regulates the amount that goes into the throttle body.
#9
04-26-2006, 07:50 PM
Originally Posted by Spoiled
You don't need to upgrade the pumps. The PSI with the return style system is fine.
Your reasoning on longer/shorter lines to me makes no sense at all. They are pressureised and going to the nozzle which regulates the amount that goes into the throttle body.
Your reasoning on longer/shorter lines to me makes no sense at all. They are pressureised and going to the nozzle which regulates the amount that goes into the throttle body.
Read up more about n20 .....
#10
04-26-2006, 07:58 PM
both lines are under pressure. You can have a garden hose with 200 psi at 50 ft.
YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.
They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.
It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.
Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.
As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?
Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.
YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.
They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.
It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.
Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.
As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?
Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.
#11
04-26-2006, 08:03 PM
Originally Posted by Spoiled
both lines are under pressure. You can have a garden hose with 200 psi at 50 ft.
YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.
They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.
It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.
Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.
As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?
Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.
YOu can have another one at 50 psi at 200 ft.
They both have static pressure (potential) at the nozzle and thus pushing both pressure through the jetting.
It does not matter because until you put the static pressure into action it is all the same.
Oh, and I have read up about nitrous.
As well, most fenderwell CAI systems have a bend prior to the MAF, hence "Fenderwell" usually a 45 and in my case a 90 degree bend downward prior to the MAF?
Sorry, my opinion, and yes I am using nitrous and yes I have been on the dyno and yes, i have a 3-400 rpm a/f lean spike upon activation and then levels out to 11.5 across the board.
:ban: The nitrous isnt pressurized between the solenoids and the nozzle until AFTER the nitrous has started spraying. The n20 takes a slight second to fill the lines. As this is happening, normally the n20 gets to the nozzle first causing the lean spike.
Since you are having a 100rpm lean spike.....maybe you should buy a longer nitrous line....lol
#12
04-26-2006, 08:07 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
:ban: The nitrous isnt pressurized between the solenoids and the nozzle until AFTER the nitrous has started spraying. The n20 takes a slight second to fill the lines. As this is happening, normally the n20 gets to the nozzle first causing the lean spike.
Since you are having a 100rpm lean spike.....maybe you should buy a longer nitrous line....lol
Since you are having a 100rpm lean spike.....maybe you should buy a longer nitrous line....lol
I understand that the line is not pressurized prior to activation of the system. it does not take but nano seconds for the line to be filled either way?
I mena think of it, takes a few seconds why use nitrous. I think that you are hoping that it woudl work.
In reality, i can see what you are saying, but does it work NO not really.
I think that you are hoping it will workl.
The real question is this, Do you have supporting evedience that this works?
#13
04-26-2006, 08:22 PM
Originally Posted by Spoiled
If you think that a longer line would make the spike go away, do a test and see?
I understand that the line is not pressurized prior to activation of the system. it does not take but nano seconds for the line to be filled either way?
I mena think of it, takes a few seconds why use nitrous. I think that you are hoping that it woudl work.
In reality, i can see what you are saying, but does it work NO not really.
I think that you are hoping it will workl.
The real question is this, Do you have supporting evedience that this works?
I understand that the line is not pressurized prior to activation of the system. it does not take but nano seconds for the line to be filled either way?
I mena think of it, takes a few seconds why use nitrous. I think that you are hoping that it woudl work.
In reality, i can see what you are saying, but does it work NO not really.
I think that you are hoping it will workl.
The real question is this, Do you have supporting evedience that this works?
I dont have an a/f guage. This is simply common sense man. Others have seen a noticeable decrease in the lean spike. The guy who posted this thread is obviously looking for ways to make his car safer on the spray. I am trying to help and give him good advice. If you are saying that a longer line will not make ANY difference upon n20 activation then you just dont understand how it works. Would you tell the guy to use a 6 inch n20 line and a 4 foot fuel line???? Something tells me that a combination like that would blow the motor....
#14
04-26-2006, 08:25 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
Do you have supporting evidence that it doesnt work????
I dont have an a/f guage. This is simply common sense man. Others have seen a noticeable decrease in the lean spike. The guy who posted this thread is obviously looking for ways to make his car safer on the spray. I am trying to help and give him good advice. If you are saying that a longer line will not make ANY difference upon n20 activation then you just dont understand how it works. Would you tell the guy to use a 6 inch n20 line and a 4 foot fuel line???? Something tells me that a combination like that would blow the motor....
I dont have an a/f guage. This is simply common sense man. Others have seen a noticeable decrease in the lean spike. The guy who posted this thread is obviously looking for ways to make his car safer on the spray. I am trying to help and give him good advice. If you are saying that a longer line will not make ANY difference upon n20 activation then you just dont understand how it works. Would you tell the guy to use a 6 inch n20 line and a 4 foot fuel line???? Something tells me that a combination like that would blow the motor....
You suggested a bigger fuel pump. That is not needed on a returnless style system. Maybe on a return style?
I think that you are a little off on nitrous? That again, is my opinion not to be expressed or condoned by anyone?
#16
04-26-2006, 08:35 PM
Not only that, but I am using the NX jetting chart which was way off. We actually have to make the system richer using a larger fuel jet. i am using a 75 shot with jetting of 41/31 which NX states that a 41/24 is the jetting for such.
So if he want it safer as well, well just increase the fuel jet too make it richer.
So if he want it safer as well, well just increase the fuel jet too make it richer.
#17
04-26-2006, 09:10 PM
Why wont you quit trying to upstage me??? I dont care about winning an argument with you I just want to give him some helpful ideas.....
1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.
2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....
3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....
I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......
1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.
2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....
3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....
I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......
#18
04-27-2006, 03:40 AM
Well gentlemen aren't we feeling a little froggy 
Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate all the responses & opinions. One thing is for sure ! We all know that safety is everyone's primary concern. With that being said I will sort through all of your of advice and come up with a safe application; or at least try to
One more question for the pros. I'm installing my nitrous gauge in the drivers area today ( already have one at the bottle) and was curious about running the #4 steel braided line. Should I run to the engine bay or to the bottle? Any benefit either way? Also I want the light in the gauge to turn on with the dash lights. Where do I connect power to so this will work.
Thanks again,
Troy :banana:
Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate all the responses & opinions. One thing is for sure ! We all know that safety is everyone's primary concern. With that being said I will sort through all of your of advice and come up with a safe application; or at least try to
One more question for the pros. I'm installing my nitrous gauge in the drivers area today ( already have one at the bottle) and was curious about running the #4 steel braided line. Should I run to the engine bay or to the bottle? Any benefit either way? Also I want the light in the gauge to turn on with the dash lights. Where do I connect power to so this will work.
Thanks again,
Troy :banana:
#19
04-27-2006, 04:20 PM
wire with black w/purple stripe at the rear of the headlight dimmer will give you dashlight activation of the light and the dimmer function IIRC.
One nitrous pressure guage should be sufficient. Run a T from your bottle to the guage or isolator inside the car (#4 AN liine is great) and to solenoids in the engine compartment. Nice and simple. Make sure you have a blowdown tube if you mount the bottle in the passenger compartment or you'll never race on a sanctioned 1/4 mile track.
100shot is a lot for a newb... try a 50 and work your way up. You need to learn how to drive a nitrous car or you'll wreck it or blow the motor. Longer lines from the solenoid to the fogger make for softer hits (not much), shorter make for harder hitting systems. I like dry kits for plastic intake cars and smaller shots but I'm a caution freak.
Wideband AF monitoring is the only accurate way. little guages like the one I use from autometer are only a way for me to tell if something has already gone wrong and they give LED's not numbers so reading it under pressure is not really possible. I only really have it for pretty-light factor.
Any kit on the market right now is generally a good kit if used and installed correctly. Make sure you have fuel pressure safety switch, master arm switch, RPM window switch (3200-5200 is a good window)
Lastly, get a dyno tune done or you will walk home someday when you can't afford it.
Hope that helps clear up the opinion to just what you wanted to know...
BTW... upgrade the fuel pump or you'll hate yourself. SVT Focus pumps are cheap and VERY applicable to this use case.
One nitrous pressure guage should be sufficient. Run a T from your bottle to the guage or isolator inside the car (#4 AN liine is great) and to solenoids in the engine compartment. Nice and simple. Make sure you have a blowdown tube if you mount the bottle in the passenger compartment or you'll never race on a sanctioned 1/4 mile track.
100shot is a lot for a newb... try a 50 and work your way up. You need to learn how to drive a nitrous car or you'll wreck it or blow the motor. Longer lines from the solenoid to the fogger make for softer hits (not much), shorter make for harder hitting systems. I like dry kits for plastic intake cars and smaller shots but I'm a caution freak.
Wideband AF monitoring is the only accurate way. little guages like the one I use from autometer are only a way for me to tell if something has already gone wrong and they give LED's not numbers so reading it under pressure is not really possible. I only really have it for pretty-light factor.
Any kit on the market right now is generally a good kit if used and installed correctly. Make sure you have fuel pressure safety switch, master arm switch, RPM window switch (3200-5200 is a good window)
Lastly, get a dyno tune done or you will walk home someday when you can't afford it.
Hope that helps clear up the opinion to just what you wanted to know...
BTW... upgrade the fuel pump or you'll hate yourself. SVT Focus pumps are cheap and VERY applicable to this use case.
#20
04-27-2006, 04:32 PM
Originally Posted by jeredan2003
Why wont you quit trying to upstage me??? I dont care about winning an argument with you I just want to give him some helpful ideas.....
1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.
2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....
3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....
I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......
1st: he was asking about how to help a lean spike and he wanted info on a wideband.......not about what size jets you use.
2nd: Im sure he is already aware of window switches and all that. Yes I have all the safety stuff too. As do most n20 users that know what theyre doing.....
3rd: The reason I told him about the fuel pump is because there have been many stock pumps lean out on a 100 shot. This may have been caused from unnatural wear but that is still possible with his car. With n20 you always want to be as safe as possible and make sure you dont take any risks. He needs a tune definately, but if he does not have one then he should at least have a bigger pump on it if he wants to be sure its safe. Dont you agree? Because unless you do a fuel pressure test then you dont ever know if the stock pump is still good enough for the extra load. Like many guys, he may drop in the 125 pills just to beat that T/A down the street.....
I know enough about nitrous. I am not a noob like you with less than 30 posts and I have been using nitrous for awhile. I spray alot an I know how it work. I know what works about it. Dont come on here and try to tell me I dont know what im talking about. Just because you have a puny shot of spray doesnt mean your Jack Roush.......
Oh and by the way, I am running a 75 shot soon to be a 100 shot on a Six. So don't tell me I don't know what I am doing. I have had nitrous on my car for about 1.5 years.
I am a noob here because of MCMMotorsports is a friend of mine and value his opinino.
So If that irks you, well fine. Thanks...and i got the first
#21
04-27-2006, 04:52 PM
spoiled, for christ sakes dude.. enough. Fuhqin drop it already. Conversation has terminated and you're not helping.
Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.
Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.
Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse **** difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action.
peece owt napolean
Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.
Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.
Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse **** difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action.
peece owt napolean
#22
04-27-2006, 05:00 PM
Learn to spell please. That hurt my eyes. Well, is this a place that I cannot give my opinion? If so I will leave and not come back.
He is wrong imo. He is an internet mechanic and that is all. I am srue that he has never turned a wrench to save himself.
That is okay...Mods, just close it would ya.
He is wrong imo. He is an internet mechanic and that is all. I am srue that he has never turned a wrench to save himself.
That is okay...Mods, just close it would ya.
#23
04-27-2006, 07:11 PM
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
spoiled, for christ sakes dude.. enough. Fuhqin drop it already. Conversation has terminated and you're not helping.
Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.
Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.
Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse **** difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action.
peece owt napolean
Fact, jeredan is one of the more respected members here. I have watched his posts and he's giving good info with lots of detail that newbs appreciate.
Fact, you have 30 posts... probably not a good idea to go pissing on senior members until you've proven yourself with more accurate and useful posts. Nothing on you personally... you just got to understand that forums are like family and we're all looking out for each other.
Fact, whatever you are personally running makes two squirts of cold horse **** difference to the conversation. I know some dumb sumbeyotches that run big shots on unprepared motors and think they're smart because they've not blown the motor yet.. I'll also have to give those jerks a ride home someday because they're too full of themselves to see logic and reason. don't be one of those guys... be cool, stay chilled out and respect the people here. Conversely, I know some actually brilliant racers that have blown motors on just a tiny little 50 shot... So, clearly success doesn't always determine the best course of action.
peece owt napolean
#24
04-28-2006, 08:00 AM
kcast, you're possibly right in spirit; I suppose. However, I can't find any personal attacks by me. Please show them to me so I can modify how I post for less attack value. < a serious request.
As far as I can tell, I went out of my way to be accomodating to spoiled in giving him room to chill it down a bit. I never said any of his statements were incorrect, and I never impuned him as a person that I can see.
My point was that newbs to any forum might just want to chill out on fight starting until they've been there for a while. You don't just come into a group of people that have established reputations in a larger community and start an argument inside a help-me thread. It's bad form and clearly wasn't going anywhere. I may have pissed off spoiled but 1, I don't really care and 2, he seems to have tired of the thread which tells me I was successful in my attempt to diffuse the situation. He's no longer focused at Jeredan. Now he's pissed at me too. (happy happy joy joy)
They weren't having a healty disagreement IMO. They were backhanding each other while the poor chap who started the thread looking for help was being filled with doubt as to whether or not he's getting any value from this site. So no, I won't let it be. I want the newbs that come here to see this as a place to go for little taps in the right direction on their way to learning what's what. If you disagree with my method, that's your right.
Jeredan asked him to chill out and he didn't, instead he continued to make personal attacks. If he'd have just let it go and gone back to giving useful info I'd have never had to post.
If you disagree, I encourage you to post briefly that you disagree. And then I encourage you to disagree with me verbosely via private message. We'll work out our disagreement, and agree on what to pass on to the info seeking newbs. Seems like a good plan to me.
As far as I can tell, I went out of my way to be accomodating to spoiled in giving him room to chill it down a bit. I never said any of his statements were incorrect, and I never impuned him as a person that I can see.
My point was that newbs to any forum might just want to chill out on fight starting until they've been there for a while. You don't just come into a group of people that have established reputations in a larger community and start an argument inside a help-me thread. It's bad form and clearly wasn't going anywhere. I may have pissed off spoiled but 1, I don't really care and 2, he seems to have tired of the thread which tells me I was successful in my attempt to diffuse the situation. He's no longer focused at Jeredan. Now he's pissed at me too. (happy happy joy joy)
They weren't having a healty disagreement IMO. They were backhanding each other while the poor chap who started the thread looking for help was being filled with doubt as to whether or not he's getting any value from this site. So no, I won't let it be. I want the newbs that come here to see this as a place to go for little taps in the right direction on their way to learning what's what. If you disagree with my method, that's your right.
Jeredan asked him to chill out and he didn't, instead he continued to make personal attacks. If he'd have just let it go and gone back to giving useful info I'd have never had to post.
If you disagree, I encourage you to post briefly that you disagree. And then I encourage you to disagree with me verbosely via private message. We'll work out our disagreement, and agree on what to pass on to the info seeking newbs. Seems like a good plan to me.
#26
04-28-2006, 03:20 PM
really all they guy needs to do is buy a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch and a window switch. If he has both of those along with a tune then hes good to go. Im not saying that a tune is absolutely necessary, but it will make for a longer lasting engine that you wont have to worry about. NX Genx2 kit, Window switch, and a tune is what you want.
According to NX you can run a 100 shot (through the plate at least) with no timing retard but octane booster is recommended.
I was running the ZEX for awhile with stock tune on a 75 shot and the engine took that without breakin a sweat. Then I installed the 100 shot NX plate and it runs great with that too. The only reason I dont have the tune is because im paying for school but I will have one this summer. Mine runs great however from many bottles of the NX 100 shot on the stock tune.
The safest way is to just get the car tuned. One of those wideband systems are like $400+. You can have a tune done for that much. I may buy an SCT Xcal2 soon. You can hook a wideband up to it also.
According to NX you can run a 100 shot (through the plate at least) with no timing retard but octane booster is recommended.
I was running the ZEX for awhile with stock tune on a 75 shot and the engine took that without breakin a sweat. Then I installed the 100 shot NX plate and it runs great with that too. The only reason I dont have the tune is because im paying for school but I will have one this summer. Mine runs great however from many bottles of the NX 100 shot on the stock tune.
The safest way is to just get the car tuned. One of those wideband systems are like $400+. You can have a tune done for that much. I may buy an SCT Xcal2 soon. You can hook a wideband up to it also.
#27
04-30-2006, 06:47 PM
If you wanted to put in an A/F guage just to monitor it even though it's been dyno tuned....DO NOT buy the Autometer one...they never give a true reading. They are driven by wire and are not accurate. AEM Makes a great wideban A/F guage that gives the most accurate digital reading due to using a seperate 02 sensor you install and hooks directly into the guage. They cost about $400 new though.
#28
05-01-2006, 10:12 AM
I have an Autometer AF guage. Mostly for bling value but partially because it does give you a good idea of rich vs. lean. It's not a digital numeric reading that's 100% exact, it's just a pretty good general idea of what's up. It only shows a useful reading under WOT. Other than that it bounces around.
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