Lean Bank 1
#5
well im currently at college which is 250 miles away from home, and i dont wanna pay someone shop labor. How bad would it be on the engine to drive the 250 miles home so I can do it myself (need tools)
#6
alright i took my car to a shop, and they claimed they looked at it for 4 hours. They said they checked everything and that they believe it is either the fuel injectors, or the computer. They want to charge me $85 for telling me nothing i already didnt know. Then they tell me they dont have the equipment that ford does, and i should take it directly to ford to figure it out. Sweet. The wont be getting paid.
So anyways, if everything else check out fine, such as all the sensors and what not, does anyone here believe it would have anything to do with the computer? I havent made any mods to the car in over two years. The shop asked me if i installed cams or anything because its running real lean. I told them no. Whats my next step?
So anyways, if everything else check out fine, such as all the sensors and what not, does anyone here believe it would have anything to do with the computer? I havent made any mods to the car in over two years. The shop asked me if i installed cams or anything because its running real lean. I told them no. Whats my next step?
#8
damn, I wish there were more good repair shops in this country with good mechanics in 'em ran by decent ppl. Most any decent mechanic should be able to diagnose your car within an hour, tops. at least get a general idea. tell the shop to go screw, and report them to the BBB. then take your car to a Firestone Auto-care center. most of those are really good, and they play the game in your favor if you have a complaint.
OR, do some basic parking lot TS'n. take care to Autozone or Advanced Auto. they pull diag. codes for free. this will pinpoint, and show you if there might be other codes. grab some carb cleaner while there. post the codes here. take car somewhere you can park it and run it while you look it over(parking lot, driveway). visually inspect all intake hoses and vacuum lines underhood, looking for dry-rot, cracks, holes, wear, melting. also, check to see if air filter is dirty. after you've done all that, with the car running, spray short blasts of carb cleaner at suspect pieces of hose and lines. focus on weak areas, and at joint sections. maybe a clamp loosened up, or broke, and your not getting a tight seal. if there are no holes in the system, the car will idle normally when sprayed. leaks will show themselves when the idle revs up.
OR, do some basic parking lot TS'n. take care to Autozone or Advanced Auto. they pull diag. codes for free. this will pinpoint, and show you if there might be other codes. grab some carb cleaner while there. post the codes here. take car somewhere you can park it and run it while you look it over(parking lot, driveway). visually inspect all intake hoses and vacuum lines underhood, looking for dry-rot, cracks, holes, wear, melting. also, check to see if air filter is dirty. after you've done all that, with the car running, spray short blasts of carb cleaner at suspect pieces of hose and lines. focus on weak areas, and at joint sections. maybe a clamp loosened up, or broke, and your not getting a tight seal. if there are no holes in the system, the car will idle normally when sprayed. leaks will show themselves when the idle revs up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Stang4.6JKM
Modular 4.6L Tech
3
11-23-2010 08:35 AM