So, took the Bullitt out to Miller Motorsports Park and got to race her round the track. Incredibly awesome experience, and next year when they open in spring I'll be right back. So that leads to my question. After 3-4 laps, brake fade sunk in, and by lap 8-9, the pedal was mush, so I had to back off. Also got a little bit of smoke from the front wheels between laps (if that is a big deal, let me know please). What recommendations to lessen or eliminate fade. The B's already got the 13" Brembos, so I figure pads and SS brake lines. Suggestions, brands, etc.
Thanks in advance.

 

That's a good place to start. I myself like Satisfied pads and since w/ the Bullitt brakes you're experiencing fade, I would run GS5 pads. They are still streetable (though less so than stock) but also can work at higher temperatures. If that still isn't enough, pick one higher up (they go up to GS1). statisfiedbrakes.com has a chart that shows the coefficient of friction vs. temperature charts for all their GS series pads so pick one that fits you the best.

As for lines, I like the Edelbrock (Russell) lines.

 

Stainless lines, new fluid and I also recommend Satisfied Brakes Company pads. I have their pads and they are great. For an open track guy you would for sure want something like the GS5 or GS6 pads.

 

I agree with most of what has already been said, but I don't have any experience with Satisfied pads. To get rid of the fade I would recommend; new fluid Ford DOT3 syn fluid has a pretty good boiling point and should hold up, and is cheap. If you want something a step up from that get Motul RBF600, that's what I use and I've never boiled fluid or had fade problems. For pads, I always recommend Hawk. HPS pads would be enough for open track and still have complete street-ability. HP+ pads would hold up to whatever you throw at it but they need to be up to temperature and dust tons and squeel if cold. Stainless steel lines and you should be good to go. You could do some air ducting also.

 

Excellent stuff. I've never heard of Satisfied Brakes so I'll check them out, and Hawk I for the most part only see good. Thanks, and can't wait to hit the track hard next year.

 

I left utah before mmp was finished. I would flush out brake fluid and get a higher boilling point one. That should help. If you want to pick up some clothes drier vent tube and make some ducts.

 

New fluid especially...During my track days, I found a brake fluid flush to be pretty well mandatory before hitting the track. I forget what I used then, (German blue stuff) but Valvoline synpower fluid has one of the highest boiling points available. Available in most auto parts stores...the German fluid was mail order only, but it had the advantage of being available in 2 colors, blue & amber. This was cool for knowing when the system was all fresh fluid by alternating the colors.

 

OEM Motorcraft fluid is just fine. That stuff has a boiling point of 500°. Most performance brake fluids only barely surpass it's boiling point. However, fluid isn't the problem for fade, it's the problem with spongey brakes. Fade is from the pads being past its temperature range.

 

Motorcraft does make a good fluid, but I think the wet boiling point is a little low. For the price it can't be beat though. The fluid that pwd72s was talking about is ATE Super blue and gold. It's dry boiling point is about 540*. The Motul RBF 600 that I use has a dry boiling point of, you guessed it, about 600* But the reasoin I like RBF 600 is for the wet boiling point of 421*, only Castrol SRF at $80 a liter beats that. With brake fluid being hygroscopic, wet boiling points should be taken into account, especialy if your a weekend racer that might ot get around to flushing out all the fluid on a regular basis.

 

Check out ATE Super Blue fluid. You'll like it. Highest wet boiling point for the money on the market. 16 bucks a quart at expensive places.

I use that fluid and EBC yellow pads and baer plain face 13" rotors for the track. On the street I switch over to slotted rotors for bling value.