Very tight oil drain plug
#1
Very tight oil drain plug
Changed my oil yesterday and when I took out the plug it seemed like it took alot of effort to remove it. More than before. It wasn't crossthreaded and it went back in about normal and tightened up just fine. Anyone else have a stubborn plug? Maybe the pan needs a rethread. Just wondering!
#3
Originally Posted by Cobra King
Well if it has been a while it takes a lot of effort to get those plugs off. I doubt your pan needs a rethread.
#4
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The Bimmers I work on at work go 15k between oil changes and the drain plugs are always hard to get off...not hard, like you dont think you can do it...just hard enough to make you think the thing is stripped...it never is though. I say your plug and pan are fine.
#5
after enough years changing oil for a living here's my professional opinion:
if it's hard coming out, that's a warning. If it's hard going back in, that's a problem. Usually some sludge will cake on it and make it hard to remove. That's kinda a warning that you need to flush the pan a bit (I use a little ATF in the oil, run for a minute and then drain but rarely do that at all... maybe once a year). If it's hard getting the plug back in then you've had the threads pulled a little either in the pan or on the plug. Replace the plug in the event that it's hard going in and if it's still a tough one, then clean the pan threads with some brake cleaner and chase them with a tap (with some grease in the grooves to catch any shavings) then install a new drain plug.
Honda's used to have steel plugs and aluminum pans and pulled threads were common... so common that speedie lube joints developed suction systems to drain the oil through the dipstick tube instead of pulling the plug. I've had to heli-coil my fair share of oil pans. Remember.. you don't have to torque down the plug hella hard... usually 10-12lbs of torque on the thing is plenty.
/expert opinion.
if it's hard coming out, that's a warning. If it's hard going back in, that's a problem. Usually some sludge will cake on it and make it hard to remove. That's kinda a warning that you need to flush the pan a bit (I use a little ATF in the oil, run for a minute and then drain but rarely do that at all... maybe once a year). If it's hard getting the plug back in then you've had the threads pulled a little either in the pan or on the plug. Replace the plug in the event that it's hard going in and if it's still a tough one, then clean the pan threads with some brake cleaner and chase them with a tap (with some grease in the grooves to catch any shavings) then install a new drain plug.
Honda's used to have steel plugs and aluminum pans and pulled threads were common... so common that speedie lube joints developed suction systems to drain the oil through the dipstick tube instead of pulling the plug. I've had to heli-coil my fair share of oil pans. Remember.. you don't have to torque down the plug hella hard... usually 10-12lbs of torque on the thing is plenty.
/expert opinion.
#6
On top of rednecks suggestion, steeda makes a magnatic oil pan plug. if you re-tap that, use that to make sure u get all the shavings out. id actually run some cheap oil through your car for a week then go back to whatever you use and check the end of the plug for shavings. metal shavings are the last thing you want floating around.
#8
Originally Posted by Mtarte
It's been about 6 months since the last oil change. Takes awhile to get 5000 miles on the synthetic oil. But I still don't remember it being the stuck feeling.
#9
Originally Posted by 01GTBlown
5k on synthetic oil? I only put 2500 on mine before i do a change! Is this a normal amount to put on synthetic?
#10
Originally Posted by MattJ
On top of rednecks suggestion, steeda makes a magnatic oil pan plug. if you re-tap that, use that to make sure u get all the shavings out. id actually run some cheap oil through your car for a week then go back to whatever you use and check the end of the plug for shavings. metal shavings are the last thing you want floating around.
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