i'm thinking of mods i want for my car and wanted to know your opinions. cold air, duel exhaust, different gear maybe a 3.73. put a performance chip in it get some nos and thats it for performance. what kind of rim sizes can i fit under there? and lower it if possible. thats all for now any other ideas will help thks.

 

I would get gears and a catback 1st.

 

If you can afford all of those mods, save your money and go get a GT! You will be so much happier in the long run (I owned a 99 and 01 V6...and now have an 04 GT)...

If this is an on-going project start with gears first, just remember though that V6 mustangs are a hard thing to re-sell...even worse if they know it has been modded....ESPECIALLY NITROUS!

 

Let the man mod the v6 if he wants to ^^.

I would just steer clear of the nitros. not good on the engine at all.

See a lot of engines come int he shop, young kid, doesn't know why his engine blew like we don't know what a nitros set up looks like.

you can do the nitros but be moderate with it, save it for the track.

Exhaust Gears Pullies roller rockers, and finish the porting and polishing. should make a pretty quick ride.

Remeber GT or v6 our cars are not Ferarris ^^ though we tend to drive them like they are... and we pay for it lol.

 

If you read my post a little more closely I said buy better if you have the $$$...pace yourself with gears first if this is a project that is going to be built over time....

This is a message board where opinions fly...to disagree is ok...but you need to respect ALL opinions....I have OWNED 2 V6's, a 5.0 Vert, a new GT, and still have an old school 73' 475HP pushrod terror...trust me, I have been around the block a few times, and know a thing or two...

Not flaming anyone here....just want a little mutual respect...this is a great forum, and I don't want it to turn to trash like most places (cough mustangworld cough cough....)

 

i would buy a GT but there are two problems. #1 my bro recently traded his honda civic for a turbo eclipse and know my parents (yes i still live at home im only 16) thinks its absolutly stupid to trade a car with god gas mileage for a fast gas gusiling monster. #2 insurance would be a #&$%* to pay for and paying for the car is killing me already.

and eventually i would like to get a stroker (4.2) kit and a supercharger no one would think that a sixer would waste all over them. and what about the N2O it blows the engine? well then maybe N2O isnt the way to go.

 

I see where you are headed now...Trust me, I couldn't get into a GT when I was 16 either! Go with gears first then do some cosmetic stuff....It is a hard balance to keep because before you know it, you will have 1000's of dollars into your car and you will never be able to re-coup any of it! Just do the car the way you want....

If you want speed, its all a question of money...how fast do you want to go?!
Just keep in mind this is probably your ONLY means of transportation, and heavily modded cars make terrible drivers...trust me, my 475 HP 73 would NEVER be my daily driver...if you want that much horsepower in a daily driver buy a Cobra!

If you want looks, wait for good deals, try to find some used stuff, and you can make it a show car very easily....

All cars are the same speed sitting at a car show or at a parking lot!

Good luck, and keep us updated (with pics!)

 

"^^" <- that means like kidding around... kinda flew right past you too.

I wasn't flaming you. I also never said you didn't know anything.
On my other Forum, we allow opinions... But we don't tolerate those lines, Sort of to each his own. however, this isn't my other forum, so I was just kidding about it. and I don't mind what you owned, I know you owned the v6s. we've been over this. The kid wants to know how to mod his v6, make a solution instead of another problem ^^

Alright, I wasn't flaming. Don't worry about it. opinions are welcome.
But those are sort along the lines, have nothing nie to say and you know the rest. Such an ongoing fray upon the world of 6 cyl and 8 cyl. we all know the 8 cyl. maybe he knew the 8 cyl is the easier choice. perhaps he'd enjoy a challenge, and it's great to see some quick 6 cyl on the road, takes a lot of work and dignity to work on the six.

 

totally correct. Im here with my 6 cyl since I was 17, now that Im older, I make more money and have moretime, Im saving up to drop some financing on a 05 GT. I love the 3.8 more than the 4.6. however they halted the 232 series. and I loath the 4.0. I've seen that engine at it's best and it's nothing impressive and sometimes unreliable. so i'm going to check out on the 4.6, just going to start reading up a bit more on it. don't do much of Fords v8s. But it's all possible. but you sound liek someoen who knows... insurance is a bitch. and a v6 can be very quick and a great sleeper. so you're on the right track with the 4.2 and supercharger that thing will fly. of course you'll be doing more work with that engine, but yup all time and money.

But in time you'll see that it's possible for that GT later in life. if that's what you are looking for. couldn't have said it better Xcler8

 

I like my 3.8 because if I mod the hell out of it, people wont expect it to be fast. Stick an intercooled procharger on that, people will never expect... I guess I like the whole idea of a sleeper car.

 

Cept when they hear the supercharge they'll suspect

I'd say P&P and 4.2 liter conversion and sleeper those stock GTs to hell
then add on that intercolled Procarger, and don't give them a chance at all. take the bottom end of a Thunderchicken SC for high compression ^^ one sweet 3.8 . "Nothing sweeter than a 3.8 liter"

 

thanks for all the tips guys. i know its going to take time with the sixer but i want to do all this work on my car. i want people to know a v6 mustang can be fast as for the h.p. yes it will still be a daily driver so i want to get around 350-400 somewhere in there someday. as for cosmeticaly i think it was xceler who had the roush stage one sixer and that looked sweet if i could get something like that thats what i'd do.

 

we can help you on that remeber though the v6 can't really handle more than 300 hp and neither can the rest of it. so we'll help ya through some mods you made need to make so your engine doesnt split down the middle or your rear twist and snap in half

 

yes that would be bad but i didnt mean that i wanted that much hp right know i know im going to need to upgrade other stuff first i just need to know what different rear end, cam. maybe even heads? and other stuff fell free to ad whatever i might need.

 

I've owned a 68 302, a '68 390 Cougar, an 81 (mistake), a 1998 v6, and a 2003 v6.

The sixers are already quicker and faster than a 68 stock 289 or 302. There is a lot of potantial to create a great all around car. The money you save in insurance and gas can go a long way to making a quick daily-driven sleeper, that doesn't attract the eyes of the local constabulary.

I've taken a lot of 80s GTs and 5.0LXs, and the looks in their eyes are well worth it to me. I've taken crossfires that cost 2x as much.

My plan is to realize efficiencies first, use the savings to build for power down the line.

Get HO underdrivers, and a CAI 1st. you'll raise your gas mileage 5-7 points, and have better throttle response and more power, with no negatives. Get traction-lok next, but if you get gears right away, you'll be paying more for gas right away, and you won't be much faster than if you had just gotten the CAI and UDPs -especially at highway speeds. AND if you go 1/4 mile racing, you'll hit the speed limiter before the 1/4 mile is up.

Before I got gears, I'd get a chip (again gaining efficiency) since you'll need a reprogram anyway if you get gears.

Good luck!

 

400 is the limit.

350 the engine can handle easily, as long as it's not nitrous.

The rear end can't handle it without a girdle.

 

you came ^^

thanks. yeah I just figired 300 would be a good time to bulk up before things get too worn.

 

I always hear (and used to think this myself) that Insurance and gas will be sooo much cheaper in a 6cyl vs GT....

not true

Honestly, the more you mod that 6 the worse gas mileage you will get...the 3.8 isn't as efficient as GM's 3800 series V6's...and with my personal experience I get low to mid 20's MPG in my 04 GT where as with my older (2001) V6 I got mid twenties-27 mpg....

At 3 mpg difference lets say 23 vs 26 @ $1.75 for gas=

Over a 5 year period average of 20,000 miles per year:

V6 with 100,000 miles will cost $6730

GT with 100,000 miles will cost $7608
--------------------------------------
Total difference: $878 for 5 years

Insurance was $72 per month on my 01 V6 (full coverage)
Insurance is now $88 per month on my 04 GT (full coverage)

$192 PER YEAR more for a GT

Granted not everyone can get those rates, this is on my own experience.

So on these figures it will cost you about $367 more to own and operate a GT over a V6.

That's about a dollar a day difference in those two categories combined...not much of a savings in my book...

 

my v6 to insure is 150 a month go figure.

 

I get 35 mpg with the UD's and CAI. That's 10 more than the GT. The EPA estimated 28, mpg, which is 4 mpg better than the GT. City mileage is MUCH better than the GT, so you'll have to adjust your formula. I drive 35,000 miles a year.

My insurance is $56. GT would have cost $84.

At 28 mpg. total cost at $2.00/gal (which has been the average here the past year) = $7142

at 24mpg $8333.

Savings of $1191

Insurance = 336 dollars/year* 7 years (average length of time cars are kept). $2352.

I already have 70,000 miles on my car (2003) so In the 1st year, I saved nearly $500 in gasoline costs, which I reinvested in CAI and UDP's. Since then I've saved $3333 -2285= $1048 in gas over a GT, for a total of $1548, add the insurance savings which is $420, and I've saved $1968.

Do the math.

That's not even considering that I only paid $13,000 for the car, the interest on the (minimum) $6000 over 5 years, and the $6000 I saved to begin with.

So the total savings (not including interest) is $7968.

 

I got quoted for a gt and a v6 a few months ago I was thinking well they charge you a lot fo ra 6er just because its a sports car and I was wondering what the difference was for two more cylinders. I pay 240 for my 6er they wanted 380 for the GT. So I pay 335 for my car payment and 240 for my insurance.

 

I had this massive response for you ...but I will keep it short, and just focus
on two parts...


I am sorry, but there is NO WAY you get an AVERAGE 35 mpg....and I repeat NO WAY that would happen...I have had 2 V6 mustangs..both with tons of mods, and the best I EVER saw was 28....I don't think you could 35 EVER in a mustang..even once..let alone claiming to get this on a daily basis and using a distorted formula on it...

I might have believed 30...going down hill both ways to work, with a tail wind at 0% gravity....but never 35....




Your math is not quite right.....

1st of all I have a BSed Degree in Advanced Mathematics, and teach Pre-Calculus at a local high school, and serve as the Math Dept Chair for my school of about 1500 students (10-12)...so that is my qualifications...I think I know how to "do the math"..

#1. You average 35 mpg over the enitre span...but in an earlier thread you talk about how your car can take those earlier model 5.0 (which I totally believe it could) ...any kind of "race" be it at a stop light, track, or wherever will kill your **supposed** 35mpg...so use the average costs...no the best possible attainable for a formula...Your gas formula is so inflated that there is no way to get accurate results...Even the tornado doesn't do that good!


Listen, I'm not flaming you...the V6 is a great car...but FOR ME using my REAL-WORLD numbers that apply TO ME, it was not noticably cheaper to own and operate a V6 over a GT....I put less than 12,000 miles a year on my car!

 

Wow, that seems so high! How old are you?! I am 28/married/and insure my house and 3 other vehicles through my insurance agent, so that helps me!(also a clean driving record)

**ALSO** I noticed in your sig you have CAI, UDP like kscoyote...but you also have Longtubes and dual flows which would only help gas mileage due to getting rid of the air quicker...what kind of gas mileage do you get?

 

I drive 750 miles every weekend. -All highway.

Airing up tires to max pressure got me 2 mpg. CAI got me 3 mpg, and the udp got me another 3.

I've had people argue with me before, but they get 35 on the highway when they duplicate what I've done. 90% of my driving is highway.

 

Yeah I am 22 years old so i still get the shaft from the insurance company as far as the gas mileage goes i get average about 24-25 but I do alot of driving my 02 sensors went bad though so my car is running like *** right now. i only got a few mods left from my complete set up I was shooting for i think with some gears a chip and 75 shot I will be where i wanna be. hopefully in the mid 14's

 

I just have a HARD time believing it myself, considering I have had 2 V6's with similar mods, and never experienced ANYTHING like it....But who knows...maybe you have a factory freak...I am sure crazier things have happened....

 

If he's averaging 24-25, he's getting at LEAST 29-32 mpg highway. If his air pressure were kept at 44psi, 34-35 is attainable.

 

YEah, but you're in KCMO, where on I-35 during rush hour, you're lucky to be going 35mph on the highway.

 

At less than 12,000 miles - no it would probably not be noticeable.

BUT again you're forgetting the costs of entry, (5-6,000 dollar cost to purchase). AND the costs of interest financing, which is why you're a math teacher and not an economist.

Additionally, you have a degree and work as a professional which gets you a break on your insurance. I get the same break.

Look on your stickier, and you'll see the range the EPA applies to. Average is 29 MPG. as you know, that's a bell curve, and the range is a total of 10 (from my sticker, if I remember correctly). So the best the EPA got was 34 in optimum conditions, and the worst was 24. (I'll have to dig up the sticker to be sure, the range could have been 8. My drive from Fayetteville had 1 stop, and the conditions (especially until I hit the Grandview triangle) were optimum.

On the drive from Omaha to Topeka, it's more iffy, as there is more 2 lanes with some passing. On some days I hit 35 mpg, other days I only get 30-32, depending on how many people I have to pass.

http://www.quickfactscenter.com/nyda...313&type6=auto
http://www.avford.com/new_mustang.php

 

the interest on the $6,000 adds up to $1128.60 (at 7%), assuming my calculations are correct. My memory of the formula could be off.

So you can add that to the cost of ownership, as well.