Sixxer Exhaust Questions
#1
Sixxer Exhaust Questions
Just a few questions. Whats the difference between H-Pipe and True duals, if there is one? And if there is, which one makes the most power? Also for Headers wise, i was lookin into longtubes, my choices are, Chrome or Ceramic, which is better? And im assuming i need new header gaskets, along with bolts? If so, which would you recomend? Id like to be able to do this myself, but i really dont know how long it would take to do a full exhaust setup.
#2
True dual is cutting your exhaust off after the Y and bringing the two pipes straight back. H pipe is still True Dual just with and extra pipe connecting the two pipes so it looks like a H.
They also have an X pipe. I would either go true dual with out a H pipe or with a H pipe.
To me headers are not worth the cost to put on a V6. I was going to do it a while back but the cost was at least around 1k.
This link explains alot of what you are asking....
https://mustangboards.com/v6-tech-fo...es-setups.html
They also have an X pipe. I would either go true dual with out a H pipe or with a H pipe.
To me headers are not worth the cost to put on a V6. I was going to do it a while back but the cost was at least around 1k.
This link explains alot of what you are asking....
https://mustangboards.com/v6-tech-fo...es-setups.html
#3
For the headers go with the ceramic coating, the protecting finish will hold up longer than the chrome ones. You can use the stock header gaskets along with the provided bolts you get with the long tubes or you can look into getting Stage 8 locking bolts which a lot of ppl will highly suggest. I personally used the provided bolts and they have been more than enough.
As far as the install I did everything myself. It's not a hard install by any means, just a time consuming one. I split the install up into 2 days so I woudnt be rushing myself if I ran into any problems. If you have the tools and a good idea of what your doing it's not bad. Here is a write up to give you an idea of whats involved. The drivers side is easy, the passenger side however is a bitch because of the egr system being in the way of the header bolts which made it hard to get most tools down there.
http://3.8mustang.com/wiki/How_To_In...g_Tube_Headers
As far as the install I did everything myself. It's not a hard install by any means, just a time consuming one. I split the install up into 2 days so I woudnt be rushing myself if I ran into any problems. If you have the tools and a good idea of what your doing it's not bad. Here is a write up to give you an idea of whats involved. The drivers side is easy, the passenger side however is a bitch because of the egr system being in the way of the header bolts which made it hard to get most tools down there.
http://3.8mustang.com/wiki/How_To_In...g_Tube_Headers
#4
With you running into murphys law everyday, I'd avoid doing this yourself. And I wouldnt fool with your exhaust to this extreme unless you were boosted in some way.
So I'd avoid doing it.
If you do, ceramic MAC long tubes, no cats, true duals, your choice of muffler.
So I'd avoid doing it.
If you do, ceramic MAC long tubes, no cats, true duals, your choice of muffler.
#5
This but maybe an H-Pype, supposedly an H makes it deeper. Im gunna try to do Mac Longtubes plus catback. Im doin longtubes because they make the car sound allot meaner, plus torque increase would be nice. What would the estimated gains be for full exhaust? It will cost me 860-900ish dollars to do it full exhaust if i do it myself. I intend to go into nitrous in college, but atm im sticking with naturally aspirated. I just took a look at the exhaust thread on 3.8 on how to put em on and it doesnt seem very hard just time consuming. I just hope i dont have to adjust mine much.
Last edited by Deathdiesel; 04-24-2010 at 07:02 PM.
#6
They shouldn't need much work, my passenger side header did rest against the motor mount and the K member though, besides that they fit very well. The long tubes do rest a bit lower, so if your planning to lower your car keep that mind. Between the long tubes and my car being pretty slammed, it makes some speed bumps and driveways impossible to get by without scraping the flanges on the long tubes.
A full bolt on V6 with some spray can make for a fun little car. You'll like it.
Check out '951 RaCiNg' on V6Power.net He sells Mac Headers and mid pipes for a pretty damn good price.
http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=45232
A full bolt on V6 with some spray can make for a fun little car. You'll like it.
Check out '951 RaCiNg' on V6Power.net He sells Mac Headers and mid pipes for a pretty damn good price.
http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=45232
#7
Sweet thanks for the link dude. My car is lowered but because i worried when i was stock about bottoming, i only lowered her 1.2". 480 for Ceramics and H-Pipe is pretty ****** sweet deal. Hooah for temp jobs. Soon as i get enough, you know what im doin. Im gunna ask him to see if he will hold a set for me or keep some in stock. Crap, what is the displacement in CI for the v6 mustang prior to 04?
#9
K, i thought it was 232 but hell im not sure. Also, just on a personal note, do you wish with your gear ratio at 3.73s with nitrous, do you wish you had gone with 4.10s? I think eventually ill do 3.73s because i plan on doing nitrous as well, but i just wanted ur opinion.
#10
I wish I had 4.10s instead of the 3.73s. I bought the rear end with the 3.73 gears already installed with a freshly rebuilt posi. It's not worth the cost for me to change them for only a little gain . I'm better off with the 3.73 gears for my commutes but I rather have the 4.10s lol. The 3.73s on spray is really nice, the 4.10s would be even better. The long tubes are great with the spray too, NA they don't do a whole lot.
#14
Lol, aight, i know its not a buncha miles, but over time i would think it would put more stress on my motor, but hell **** it. 4.10s it is. Spike what have you done to your car anyways? Your runnin spray too correct? Also how much more hp/tq do you guys think will be made from a full setup? And whats the difference between the stage 8 locking nuts and normal ones?
Last edited by Deathdiesel; 04-25-2010 at 10:03 AM.
#15
Dustin's running a 125 shot with all bolt on except long tubes. Dustin's car will make you hate your car. lol.
Stage 8 bolts are designed to not back out to prevent exhaust leaks at the manifolds. I stuck with the regular bolts and have been fine.
http://www.stage8.com/products_lhb.html
Stage 8 bolts are designed to not back out to prevent exhaust leaks at the manifolds. I stuck with the regular bolts and have been fine.
http://www.stage8.com/products_lhb.html
Last edited by SeanStang; 04-25-2010 at 03:05 PM.
#16
Lol he has a Coupe GT, i already hate mine in comparison. How do the stage 8 lock bolts work? Depending on how exspensive they are i might or might not get them. How much spray can our cars handle? I know past 100 you have to mess with the timing, and at around 400 the rear end starts to break. But what would the first thing most likely to go and at what power? I highly doubt id go over 100.
Edit: Sean, at this point of time me and you have 1949 posts, and you have 1959. Lol.
Edit: Sean, at this point of time me and you have 1949 posts, and you have 1959. Lol.
Last edited by Deathdiesel; 04-25-2010 at 06:37 PM.
#22
Well i heard from allot of people that youll always want more. So yeah, also i never figured out how do the stage 8 locking nuts work and how exspensive are they?
Last edited by Deathdiesel; 04-28-2010 at 04:52 PM.
#23
I ran a 75 shot for awhile before getting a tune and going to a 100 shot.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-6919/
A retainer goes over the bolt head angled towards the header tubes to prevent the bolt from backing out to prevent any possible manifold leaks. It's just a personal preference really.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-6919/
A retainer goes over the bolt head angled towards the header tubes to prevent the bolt from backing out to prevent any possible manifold leaks. It's just a personal preference really.
#24
50$...hmm i guess the worst that could happen is i dont buy them have leaks and just buy them then put em on...However thats almost the same as completely re-installing them. Tough choice...
#26
Sean, did I ride in your car with a 100shot or a 75 shot? And when are we going to hit the track.
And a 100shot can be done on a stock tune. I know most of you would not because your worried and that's fine, but the stock tunes in these cars are weak. That's why we get such good gains with a tune.
And a 100shot can be done on a stock tune. I know most of you would not because your worried and that's fine, but the stock tunes in these cars are weak. That's why we get such good gains with a tune.
#28
Sean, did I ride in your car with a 100shot or a 75 shot? And when are we going to hit the track.
And a 100shot can be done on a stock tune. I know most of you would not because your worried and that's fine, but the stock tunes in these cars are weak. That's why we get such good gains with a tune.
And a 100shot can be done on a stock tune. I know most of you would not because your worried and that's fine, but the stock tunes in these cars are weak. That's why we get such good gains with a tune.
Diesel you can run a 100 shot on the stock tune like Dustin said. The stock tunes are really really conservative. Just run with a 75 shot the first couple of pulls to get a feel for how the nitrous works then up it to a 100 shot. If your not comfortable with it, wait for a tune. I put several bottles through my car on the stock tune.