Engine Internal ?
#1
Engine Internal ?
ok in about a couple of years im planning on getting all the internals for my 96 3.8L stang. The internals im looking to get are forged pistons, rods, rings, etc... & and the CAM. Just wanted to ask will i need sumthing esle to support this kind of power that im gonna get with the pistons and such. Will i need bigger injectors? Will i need port & polished heads? U get the point. lol
Just to let yall know i will be getting the 4.10 gears & t-lok in about 2 months. Then the last thing ill will be getting are LT Headers which i will be getting by the end of this year. Once i get the LT Headers. I will buy no more performace mods until i get my internals.
Just to let yall know i will be getting the 4.10 gears & t-lok in about 2 months. Then the last thing ill will be getting are LT Headers which i will be getting by the end of this year. Once i get the LT Headers. I will buy no more performace mods until i get my internals.
#2
#4
Those mods wont add power unless you use pistons that create more compression otherwise non of that will add power minus the cam of course. The cam should be the last piece you add after you know what your final parts and goal is because a cam makes everything work together better. So it needs to be last once you know what your going to do. Me i would skip the bullshit and spray it or add a used supercharger setup or turbo setup and wait for the motor to **** out. Those 3.8L motors are very strong and take alot of abuse.
#5
Those mods wont add power unless you use pistons that create more compression otherwise non of that will add power minus the cam of course. The cam should be the last piece you add after you know what your final parts and goal is because a cam makes everything work together better. So it needs to be last once you know what your going to do. Me i would skip the bullshit and spray it or add a used supercharger setup or turbo setup and wait for the motor to **** out. Those 3.8L motors are very strong and take alot of abuse.
#6
hey man, if i were you, i wouldn't really mod a motor that has 140k miles on it. not worth it imo. for the amount of head aches you're going to encounter with the engine and drivetrain, it'll probably be better to go in a different direction.
#7
well i was thinking once this motor goes, then i will buy another one, n then take off the mods i put on this one and transfer them to the new one
#8
well... why don't you say the trouble of doing it twice, and get yourself a motor and work on it while the one with the 140k is still in ur ride? because if you do what you just said, their will be a period of time (probably a long one) where you won't be driving the stang...
#9
well... why don't you say the trouble of doing it twice, and get yourself a motor and work on it while the one with the 140k is still in ur ride? because if you do what you just said, their will be a period of time (probably a long one) where you won't be driving the stang...
#10
uuuh, i can't really tell if your being serious, or if you just really did have a revalation?
#12
get the engine, and the forged internals. since you've got the block and are going to take it apart, and obviously intrested in making power, why don't you do a head/cam/intake swap while you are at it? and then when the engine is ready to be put in you put the LT headers and a new midpipe.
and forget about the 4.10s and the t-lock... if you really want something that is reliable, see if you can find a GT rear end with that set up you want. (what i did)
#13
ok man, glad i could help. but let me go a little further...
get the engine, and the forged internals. since you've got the block and are going to take it apart, and obviously intrested in making power, why don't you do a head/cam/intake swap while you are at it? and then when the engine is ready to be put in you put the LT headers and a new midpipe.
and forget about the 4.10s and the t-lock... if you really want something that is reliable, see if you can find a GT rear end with that set up you want. (what i did)
get the engine, and the forged internals. since you've got the block and are going to take it apart, and obviously intrested in making power, why don't you do a head/cam/intake swap while you are at it? and then when the engine is ready to be put in you put the LT headers and a new midpipe.
and forget about the 4.10s and the t-lock... if you really want something that is reliable, see if you can find a GT rear end with that set up you want. (what i did)
#14
uuuuh, my GT 8.8" rear cost me $200 dude, with 3.73s and GT brakes.
seriously, you have to do a lot of research before you buy anything, even if your goal is "only" 350HP. your car is old and seen some miles, so you'll probably need a stronger rear then the limp 7.5" rear. You'll need to be able to support the new power, which is over twice of stock. probably new front brakes, new transmission, new clutch. this is not a simple project.
seriously, you have to do a lot of research before you buy anything, even if your goal is "only" 350HP. your car is old and seen some miles, so you'll probably need a stronger rear then the limp 7.5" rear. You'll need to be able to support the new power, which is over twice of stock. probably new front brakes, new transmission, new clutch. this is not a simple project.
#15
uuuuh, my GT 8.8" rear cost me $200 dude, with 3.73s and GT brakes.
seriously, you have to do a lot of research before you buy anything, even if your goal is "only" 350HP. your car is old and seen some miles, so you'll probably need a stronger rear then the limp 7.5" rear. You'll need to be able to support the new power, which is over twice of stock. probably new front brakes, new transmission, new clutch. this is not a simple project.
seriously, you have to do a lot of research before you buy anything, even if your goal is "only" 350HP. your car is old and seen some miles, so you'll probably need a stronger rear then the limp 7.5" rear. You'll need to be able to support the new power, which is over twice of stock. probably new front brakes, new transmission, new clutch. this is not a simple project.
#17
yup thats wat my mechanic was saying. let me ask if that would be better than the 4.10 gears n t-lok, "Flywheel & new clutch"
#19
damn but i cant wait to get to gears n t-lok, ill just buy then again whenever i get the GT rear
#20
no you noob!!! lol, the GT rear comes with a posi, so no real need for a t-lock. and you can probably find a used one from a fox body or sn95. just note that the fox body one is shorter on each end by about 3/4 of an inch. not noticable at all.
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