MT or Nittos
#1
MT or Nittos
I am ordering tires tomm. The two it is between is the new Nitto NT05r and the mickey thompson drag radials. I am getting 315 35 17s and i am wanting a tire that is going to be mean on there. Also i found the nittos for 40bucks cheaper on one of the stores that is running a weekend deal. Which one has everybody used...thanks
#4
You guys see the article of the NTO5r's in the recent muscle mustangs. Those tires are gonna be competitive with the M/T's...I cant quote but I'm sure they got some 1.6 60fts out of them with 315/35/17 tire size. This was with a 600hp mustang. Takes some skill to get that much power to the ground without spinning.
I would use NTO5r's as race only and run regular 555r's on the street if your worried that much about traction.
I would use NTO5r's as race only and run regular 555r's on the street if your worried that much about traction.
#5
i am going to be going to the track alot this summer. I seen the article that stanger is talking about and thats why i was tossing up the idea of those to..The mickey thompsons are 430 shipped for the pair and the sale has the nittos nt05r for 370 shipped. I have heard that the mts are the best but i am wondering how the others will hold up. My car should be pretty mean and its going to need some sticky without going to a slick.
#6
Do you ever drive your car in the rain? DR's aren't going to be very good in the rain, I know my Hoosiers suck and I mean SUCK in the rain.
I don't think you could really go wrong with the Nitto's or M/T's. Only reason why I would go with one over the other would be to match the front and rear branding.
I don't think you could really go wrong with the Nitto's or M/T's. Only reason why I would go with one over the other would be to match the front and rear branding.
#7
Yes, but like I said, they won't last as long on the street.
#9
Nitto just released those NT05's. Thats why no one really has any info on them. Personally I wont put them on my car because I know they wont perform to the standards I grew accustomed to with the Nitto 555r. The past 40k miles on my car I have been through 3 sets with lots and lots of burnouts. I just put new ones on my car June 09 and so far I have used about half of the tread and thats with about 25 passes down the 1/4 mile and around 2k miles driven.
If you just have to have drag radials and daily drive your car just get the 555r's because those will do you just fine as an all around tire, tons of grip, some tread to ward off hydro planing, and a sidewall that wont diminish handling.
I cant comment on the M/T's or the NT05's or even the BFG's because I havent driven with them on my car nor rode in one.
If you just have to have drag radials and daily drive your car just get the 555r's because those will do you just fine as an all around tire, tons of grip, some tread to ward off hydro planing, and a sidewall that wont diminish handling.
I cant comment on the M/T's or the NT05's or even the BFG's because I havent driven with them on my car nor rode in one.
#10
Wow..what a choice...what is the diff between a AA,A,B, and BB, rating that is on tires. I want a mean tires and am thinking if they hook the same going with the nittos and putting the rest toward a good set of control arms. But if the mt are that much better then i will deff order them. I will call tomm and see what a tech guy has to say.
#11
Wow..what a choice...what is the diff between a AA,A,B, and BB, rating that is on tires. I want a mean tires and am thinking if they hook the same going with the nittos and putting the rest toward a good set of control arms. But if the mt are that much better then i will deff order them. I will call tomm and see what a tech guy has to say.
M/T's have been proven over and over, but Nitto's are great tires too. I have NT555's on my car and on the street they are really sticky for a regular treaded tire so I must assume that their DR's would be even better.
Just take your choice, I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them.
I like my Hoosier DR's, but I'm probably going to go with Nitto's next time because too many people at the track bitch about them not beaing a "real DR" because they don't have water treads.
#12
If you are using a drag radial for the track do not use the nittos. They take alot to get heated up, and I could only cut a 1.996 60' with them. Granted I only had 3 passes with them, but i've had a 2.01 60' on streets. All season streets.
Buy the mickeys.
Buy the mickeys.
#13
Edit: You do have a auto...Sorry, I just dont see 1.7 or less 60fts in a stock converter at all. You could of hit 12's N/A with a 3400-3600 stall. Call Darrin from BC auto's he'll hook you up with some 4R70W knowledge...He bitch slapped me with some converter lessons and AODE tuning. For cereal he's a nice guy and spoke with me about this stuff for 30 minutes one day.
The letter ratings are for tire compound softness. AA is softest A is soft and so forth...200 Treadwear will last about 15-20k miles if driven easy on. 180 AA tires will be soft and grippy but good luck on them lasting 12 months worth of driving. Thats my take on it...I'm sure there is more to it. If you see tires without that stuff advertised than its a "race" only tire.
Last edited by stanger00; 02-14-2010 at 07:46 PM.
#14
If I remember right you have a auto...all I will say is buy a converter and those 2.0+ 60fts will be a thing of the past once you figure out how to launch.
Edit: You do have a auto...Sorry, I just dont see 1.7 or less 60fts in a stock converter at all. You could of hit 12's N/A with a 3400-3600 stall. Call Darrin from BC auto's he'll hook you up with some 4R70W knowledge...He bitch slapped me with some converter lessons and AODE tuning. For cereal he's a nice guy and spoke with me about this stuff for 30 minutes one day.
The letter ratings are for tire compound softness. AA is softest A is soft and so forth...200 Treadwear will last about 15-20k miles if driven easy on. 180 AA tires will be soft and grippy but good luck on them lasting 12 months worth of driving. Thats my take on it...I'm sure there is more to it. If you see tires without that stuff advertised than its a "race" only tire.
Edit: You do have a auto...Sorry, I just dont see 1.7 or less 60fts in a stock converter at all. You could of hit 12's N/A with a 3400-3600 stall. Call Darrin from BC auto's he'll hook you up with some 4R70W knowledge...He bitch slapped me with some converter lessons and AODE tuning. For cereal he's a nice guy and spoke with me about this stuff for 30 minutes one day.
The letter ratings are for tire compound softness. AA is softest A is soft and so forth...200 Treadwear will last about 15-20k miles if driven easy on. 180 AA tires will be soft and grippy but good luck on them lasting 12 months worth of driving. Thats my take on it...I'm sure there is more to it. If you see tires without that stuff advertised than its a "race" only tire.
I could definitely use a converter, but i'm not dumping any more money into the car. I rarely drive it and its just not as fun as it used to be. I really want an Audi for some reason. I've been stuck on those for a bit now. I checked out an 09 TT and it was fun to drive, but not worth the price tag. Maybe i'll wait until I can afford an R8.
#15
After doing lots and lots of my homework i found all i needed to know. Actually the lettering goes backwards from an A being hard and hardest to B and C getting softer as the letters go up. I have read so many reviews and i think the Niitos Nto5r is the way to go..they have a softness of b and bb and i talked to a couple of ppl who are running them and they are so impressed and pulling out in the 1.50s and low 1.60s in the 60. Siad they hook up the same as mt's without all the price. It might be fun to do a comparison with nittos this time and mts next.
Last edited by Graderbird2004; 02-14-2010 at 08:54 PM.
#16
I always say Nittos. They dump so much money into actual hard research for a DR thats its ridiculous. They 555Rs are amazing and I loved them, but the NT05Rs are like night and day when compared to the NT555Rs. Better in every way possible, BUT water treading they kinda suck there. Got a chance to test them on the car, and if I get a winter beater next season I will be getting some NT05Rs for sho.
#17
Your right. I did not launch the way I should have, and I already learned how to launch my car previously N/A. I was concentrating so hard on my nitrous kit that I just had a brain fart and brake boosted for both passes. I feel as if I should of had better than a 1.996 with the Nittos anyway. I've cut a 1.91 N/A with M/T's.
I could definitely use a converter, but i'm not dumping any more money into the car. I rarely drive it and its just not as fun as it used to be. I really want an Audi for some reason. I've been stuck on those for a bit now. I checked out an 09 TT and it was fun to drive, but not worth the price tag. Maybe i'll wait until I can afford an R8.
I could definitely use a converter, but i'm not dumping any more money into the car. I rarely drive it and its just not as fun as it used to be. I really want an Audi for some reason. I've been stuck on those for a bit now. I checked out an 09 TT and it was fun to drive, but not worth the price tag. Maybe i'll wait until I can afford an R8.
Speaking of Audi's I really like the S5's...those are nice.
After doing lots and lots of my homework i found all i needed to know. Actually the lettering goes backwards from an A being hard and hardest to B and C getting softer as the letters go up. I have read so many reviews and i think the Niitos Nto5r is the way to go..they have a softness of b and bb and i talked to a couple of ppl who are running them and they are so impressed and pulling out in the 1.50s and low 1.60s in the 60. Siad they hook up the same as mt's without all the price. It might be fun to do a comparison with nittos this time and mts next.
370 for NT05r's seems reasonable. They are 7 dollars more than 555r's on DiscountTireDirect..
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