How low should I go?
#31
Yeah, I'd go with either the Ford or the Roush.. They're both going to be high quality products and can both give you a nice look.
I'm not sure about the S197's, but my car is lowered a good bit in the front and it doesn't need C/C plates. I'm not 100% sure, but if you're just going an inch or 1 1/8" in the front, I don't think you'll need them.
You should get a good Strut tower bar and a Panhard bar, stiffen up the ride for some corner carving!
I'm not sure about the S197's, but my car is lowered a good bit in the front and it doesn't need C/C plates. I'm not 100% sure, but if you're just going an inch or 1 1/8" in the front, I don't think you'll need them.
You should get a good Strut tower bar and a Panhard bar, stiffen up the ride for some corner carving!
I hate this ****. I feel like a ******* crackhead. I don't know if I want to get the rest of the **** I need for my system, or just go ahead and lower the car.
#32
The Ford springs are 1.5" all around, I think. I just don't want to buy any unnecessary parts. Yeah, I'm definitely getting a PHB to keep the rear aligned. The strut brace will wait, though.
I hate this ****. I feel like a ******* crackhead. I don't know if I want to get the rest of the **** I need for my system, or just go ahead and lower the car.
I hate this ****. I feel like a ******* crackhead. I don't know if I want to get the rest of the **** I need for my system, or just go ahead and lower the car.
If I had to guess.. You probably want the stereo more.
#33
I really want to lower the car, but the stock ride is fine with me. It doesn't bother me too much. I don't like the gap, but it doesn't bother me to the point of 'I have to do something about it right now'. I'd actually prefer to keep it at the height it is now, but improve the handling. I don't know how to go about doing that. I don't know where to start.
Having better handling is more important to me than the radio, and I guess that answers my question.
#34
Well she has SLP long tubes and their x and catback thats why the exhaust is so low. SLP long tubes hang very very low.
And don't try to get her to race her car. She has full exhaust,tune,intake,4.10s if I recall and I don't think I have ever even seen that car go WOT once.
And don't try to get her to race her car. She has full exhaust,tune,intake,4.10s if I recall and I don't think I have ever even seen that car go WOT once.
#35
For those of you who haven't seen the car in person, this is a picture of my car and how low the cats hang. This picture does not do it any justice. There is maybe a 3" clearance, if that, between the ground and the cats.
And don't try to get her to race her car. She has full exhaust,tune,intake,4.10s if I recall and I don't think I have ever even seen that car go WOT once.
#36
That's about how low my exhaust is, about half a coke can from the ground. I actually don't scrap on much, but I don't drive over anything that I know I will scrap on. My chin spoiler scrapes, my radiator air dam scrapes, it all scrapes once in a while, just have to live with it and try to prevent it when you can. I can't drive over trash in the road because the car will scoop it up.
#37
Why the hell did you get all this stuff to make it faster and never floor it?
#38
Your stock has fallen as far as I am concerned, lol. However, I don't go WOT that much on the streets, draws bad attention.
#40
I honestly have never really had an opportunity where I knew I could go WOT safely, except for at our meets. I do 98% of my driving in the city. My average miles per hour in my car is 21, if that tells you anything. You remember where we drove through in Lakeland to get to that Fire Station? I work in that exact area. On the way home, same thing. Lights everywhere and where there aren't lights, there's traffic. I never take it on the interstate unless I'm going to Orlando. In fact, the first meet we had was the first time my car had been in the interstate since I had it. I rarely ever drive the car on the weekends, and it sits for usually two weeks out of a month.
Yeah, yeah, I know I should take it to the track. I'm just so ******* lazy when I get home from work that I just don't give enough of a **** to go.
Cops are like ******* mosquitoes here. My car is already a damn magnet. I don't need it to be worse.
#42
I can understand that in the city. There are not many times in the city when you can go WOT. But pulling on the highway, or a nice open stretch of road that's open for a quick little blast is always fun. Its now my goal at the next meet to get your ***** *** to go WOT in front of all of us.
#43
I can understand that in the city. There are not many times in the city when you can go WOT. But pulling on the highway, or a nice open stretch of road that's open for a quick little blast is always fun. Its now my goal at the next meet to get your ***** *** to go WOT in front of all of us.
I have definitely had 'quick little blasts' before down in the area of our last meet. And there is this one spot in the morning when I'm driving by myself that I'll put ol' Spook down the road. I'm not saying I have never stomped it and gotten to 0-60 in the few seconds it takes. I just have never had the pedal all the way down. I've had the car up to 120 before, but that's it. I still had a little room to go. I don't like driving that fast, though. I'd rather cruise at like 55-60.
Anyway, back to my suspension issue. I decided this weekend that the car will not be getting lowered. I was at my best friend's house and I hit a huge turtle. It's shell was probably about 8" tall from the ground. It was about midnight. There was a semi coming in the opposite direction and by the time I saw the turtle, it was too late. It cleared my exhaust, but hit my differential cover and made this insanely loud clunking noise. My heart dropped for a second. I still haven't decided whether it dropped because I was worried about the car or the turtle. Everything was okay on my car, but I don't think I could say the same for the turtle.
But, I still want to upgrade my handling. I have problems will wheel hop and I don't like how bouncy the car is over bumps, depressions, and railroad tracks. Does that mean I need to soften the suspension or stiffen it? What can I do to make the ride less bouncy, improve the handling, and stop the wheel hop?
Last edited by Black Sunshine; 04-27-2009 at 08:23 AM.
#46
You need some springs. The stock "roll" feeling that you get from railroad tracks and etc. was what I hated. With the rear sway bar and the new springs it's gone now.
I know where you're coming from. I've always had issues with my car since lowering it.
Car washes (the rollers hit my rear sway), dead animals in the street, driveways everything is an obstacle now. But, I wouldn't have it any other way. All of those things can be overcome and when it's easy cruising she looks ten times better than the 4x4 look...
I know where you're coming from. I've always had issues with my car since lowering it.
Car washes (the rollers hit my rear sway), dead animals in the street, driveways everything is an obstacle now. But, I wouldn't have it any other way. All of those things can be overcome and when it's easy cruising she looks ten times better than the 4x4 look...
#47
Her car makes more power then me by a good margin so I would not bet on that other then the fact that I drive my *** off.
For wheel hop you need to replace the lower control arms with after market boxed or tube style ones with poly bushings. That along with a set of shocks/struts will make it handle better and stop the wheel hop. You can also replace the 3rd link to get even more traction as well. but lower control arms are the first and best way to cure the hop.
For wheel hop you need to replace the lower control arms with after market boxed or tube style ones with poly bushings. That along with a set of shocks/struts will make it handle better and stop the wheel hop. You can also replace the 3rd link to get even more traction as well. but lower control arms are the first and best way to cure the hop.
#48
At least lower the car an inch... I would start with springs and shocks/struts and see from there where you wanna go suspension wise. If not pleased after those look into swapping out the lower control arms. If you want help with install give me a call, I'd be happy to help.
#51
You need some springs. The stock "roll" feeling that you get from railroad tracks and etc. was what I hated. With the rear sway bar and the new springs it's gone now.
I know where you're coming from. I've always had issues with my car since lowering it.
Car washes (the rollers hit my rear sway), dead animals in the street, driveways everything is an obstacle now. But, I wouldn't have it any other way. All of those things can be overcome and when it's easy cruising she looks ten times better than the 4x4 look...
I know where you're coming from. I've always had issues with my car since lowering it.
Car washes (the rollers hit my rear sway), dead animals in the street, driveways everything is an obstacle now. But, I wouldn't have it any other way. All of those things can be overcome and when it's easy cruising she looks ten times better than the 4x4 look...
For wheel hop you need to replace the lower control arms with after market boxed or tube style ones with poly bushings. That along with a set of shocks/struts will make it handle better and stop the wheel hop. You can also replace the 3rd link to get even more traction as well. but lower control arms are the first and best way to cure the hop.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-p...ling-arms.html
What the hell is a 3rd link? That is something I've never heard of.
Hahaha!
At least lower the car an inch... I would start with springs and shocks/struts and see from there where you wanna go suspension wise. If not pleased after those look into swapping out the lower control arms. If you want help with install give me a call, I'd be happy to help.
Thanks for the offer of help. I will definitely need it. I'll buy you some lunch/dinner afterwards.
I think you need to attend a burnout rehabilitation center. I'm sure we could find one for you.
#52
Stay away from J&M products!! I have two things from them and I will never by another one. My stainless front brake lines are from them and they took some modifactions to fit correctly. I also have their subframe connectors and they also did not fit the bottom of the car correctly, and I had to mod them to make them fit right as well. Thats the last time I ever use their **** again.
The 3rd link is the single upper control arm that the 05+ cars have.
The 3rd link is the single upper control arm that the 05+ cars have.
#54
Stay away from J&M products!! I have two things from them and I will never by another one. My stainless front brake lines are from them and they took some modifactions to fit correctly. I also have their subframe connectors and they also did not fit the bottom of the car correctly, and I had to mod them to make them fit right as well. Thats the last time I ever use their **** again.
The 3rd link is the single upper control arm that the 05+ cars have.
The 3rd link is the single upper control arm that the 05+ cars have.
Would these work with the stock springs or do I have to get springs, too? Should I get with the adjustable ones instead?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...trut-2005.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...hock-2005.html
What do you guys think about this? I'd have to buy the UCA separately, and springs if I have to have them. But that's no big deal.
http://stangsuspension.com/store/com...idproduct=1283
I'll probaby just buy everything separately as I have the money and just wait a while to install it all.
Yeah. It does suck because I already have to be extra cautious, but damn... the sound and the little extra power is totally worth it.
#55
That one package is really nice too and either of those shocks will work on yours stock springs.
You might wanna look at UPR also they have nice parts for less money then other people.
Like these lower control arms.
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1355
You might wanna look at UPR also they have nice parts for less money then other people.
Like these lower control arms.
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1355
#57
That one package is really nice too and either of those shocks will work on yours stock springs.
You might wanna look at UPR also they have nice parts for less money then other people.
Like these lower control arms.
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1355
You might wanna look at UPR also they have nice parts for less money then other people.
Like these lower control arms.
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1355
Okay. I found this on Stangsuspension.com. They are having a sale on some of the stuff I need and it has free shipping.
S/S:
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=1416
LCA's:
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=639
This is what I plan to get from AM.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...arm-05-08.html
Do I really need to get springs? I know you said those shocks and struts would work with my stock springs, but the combination of those S&S with the stock springs wouldn't make the car sit any higher or anything?
Is there anything completely necessary that I would need?
My apologies for all these questions. Suspension is not my strong suit. I know what all of this **** does to a certain extent, but my understanding of how it works together is limited at best.
Last edited by Black Sunshine; 04-29-2009 at 08:06 AM.
#59
Hahaha. Nothing is wrong with you. At least you read it before you replied to it!
#60
IMO. you shouldn't waste your money on anything other than springs if you never go WOT or race it. Buying all those mods and doing that is like buying a million dollar track ready supercar and only sunday driving it to the grocery store and back.